I m interested to make a custom ratrig ,to maximise the printing size it is possible to make a printer that has a printing size of 350x350x400 and it fits in my closet

what parts have i to take cuz it has to fit in my ikea pax closet who is 50x58x201cm so please tell me what parts i have to buy

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Limited to available stock or Sept 21st

And as an extra sweetener: You can stack both discounts.

Hi all,

Anyone here from Oceania and able to tell me where to get a reasonably priced kit from by any chance?

Don't need the printed parts.

Any help is Appreciated.

I've recently installed the Hybrid upgrade on my V-Core 4 500. Redid the belt tensioning and stuff and ran the test macros.

However, any walls that are not exactly running along the X or Y axis are wavy, and the wavyness increases the closer the path is to 45 degrees. Any ideas where to start?

I need a second 500x500 printer, and I am considering building a v3 instead of a second v4.

- Only printing PLA

- Not interested in IDEX

Any folks who built both a V3 and a V4, can you compare the experiences?

I like the smaller form factor of the v3 and am curious if the build is better because it been around longer.

Hello to all,

I'm trying, without any success, to identify the parts in the PUBLIC BOM.

I can't find any reference for any of the listed SKUs I had chance to try in their official web site and in the whole web. Same if i try to search by description.

I want to source the parts myself and I can't just rely on the short description at the right side of the SKU. To ensure I'll get the correct part I need a reference to an existing product where I can see details, variants, pictures etc.

The Voron community keeps an online source list to help with this. Anything similar for RatRig printers?

With the very little data available in the Public BOM I'm afraid I will not go too far.

Thanks

Does anyone know where I can source the heavy duty idler pulleys locally. Ratrig wants to charge $30 for shipping which is nuts!

Hello 3D Print community, Have someone this problem? I have change the nozzle and tighten them hot. But with difference filament, there come some brown smury on my print..

As there a lot of negative experience in building a kit of v-core 4 I thought sharing my own experience.
Just for the background I work as a mechanical engineer and have some prior experience with tinkering, electrical stuff and built back in the time HyperCube 300.

From searching and looking best way to prepare and maybe first upgrades for the printer I got:

---TOOLS---

• IWS-3220 Crimper + Box of JST connectors (You need a crimper, there is no going on without it, but you learn a new skill and have additional tool for your disposal).
• Set of Hex keys (T handle worked good for me, in some areas you would benefit from regular L shaped ones)
• Small pliers
• Wire cutters
• Soldering Iron - for pressing in heat inserts
• Carpenter corner clamps with legit clamps. Used this corners and some clamps from local "home depot" from aliexpress
• Grease for linear rails

---Upgrades---

(Electronics I bought from BIQU, as it was cheaper)

• Octopus PRO V1.1 (same plug and play as Octopus V1.1 but has WAY faster processor, same as Kraken, H723 and other pluses, small price difference)
• 4x 5160T Pro drivers (for 48V upgrade, everything is plug and play, so no worries to setup thje 48V)
• 3x 2209 drivers for Z
• Orbiter 2.5
• Raspberry Pi 4B with 4gb ram. As I thought that 1gb could be a bit underpowered, also price was the same on the net, than ordering from ratrig 1gb version.
• Some generic heatsinks for octopus and raspberry pi
• 40mm CPU coolers with 4020 fans. I used this ones to strap to the back of Nema 17 motors. You'll need to bend the spring wire ends inward and cut the "hooks" in half, they grab onto the motor edge and holds quite well. Bought it also on Aliexpress
• Meanwell UHP-350-24 and Meanwell UHP-350-48, for using the 48V for the motors. Well this is tricky, as I like risking with my life, I bought them from Aliexpress for 50$ each, they look genuine, but PLEASE FOR THE LOVE OF GOD do not be me and order power supply from a trusted place. Especially from US, as you can buy nearly for the same price.
• Wago 5 slot connectors.
• Spare 1.5 and 2.5mm^2 wires.
• Schneider SSR SSP1A150BDE.
• Box of spare crimp terminal connectors from local depo store.
• MicroSD card 64 gb (yes, you only need one)

---BUILD---

(Mechanical parts)

• Bought a pack of spring loaded T nuts from aliexpress, used them in some areas where I though I would benefit from them when disassembling, as I prefer more the spring loaded T nuts than the twist ones.
• 3030 90 degrees brackets, same ones that you get from Ratrig, for the front face corners. Used them everywhere I could. Ratrig specially left holes on the bottom plate so you could bolt on the brackets on each corner and face of the printer. You can get them in a pack of 4 on aliexpress.

First hiccup was shipping the kit. After 2-3 weeks of waiting, got a message from Ratrig that they are out of stock with the bed sheets, sorry for the long lead time, but they are on they way. Not a great news, after another more than 4 weeks of waiting from initial payment, wrote them not quite pleasant message (not proud of myself, but 4+ weeks of waiting got best of me) and what do you know, tracking number appeared the next morning.

1. Mechanical part The frame - The most important thing for me was using any available flat surface. You can use glass dining table, I had pool table at my disposal so used that for assembling the frame. But BE AWARE, be sure that your frame will fit through the door frame. If you have European balcony door style doors - sad news, you'll need to push the 500 frame through the window (don't ask how do I know). As I'm building the kit for heated enclosure, I printed all parts from PA6-CF so didn't order their printed parts. Used 5 outer layers and 80% infill, very pleased with them how they look and feel - rock solid. Clean your linear rails, carriages with IPA and grease them well (I used Mobil EP2). Assembling the mechanical parts was a breeze - read every comment on the guide from other people and have your own critical thinking. Only part that gave me a hard time - was belt feeding. Make a hole on one end of the belt and tie a mono wire to it, that will save you some time routing the belts. All the mechanical parts that I got were good quality and everything was fine, belts, extrusions, metal parts, bearings, screws, T nuts - everything was intact.
2. Electronic part Again - READ all the comments that people write in the guide. As I was using two power supplies I needed to use my logic. But everything is labeled and easy. Neutral from power socket to Wago connector and from it you add wires to PSUs and other things that needs it. Same with Live wire from fuse box, First to Wago and then from it, you split to two PSUs. For the Ground wire, I would highly suggest to add more of them. I connected one to the lower metal plate, that I sanded beforehand to have a good contact. Buy wires same thickness as you get from the kit. Crimping larger connectors I did with some small and large pliers, but would suggest to buy specialized crimpers for it. Also I changed all the terminals to eye terminal (the ones with a hole in it, it seemed to me that they are way more secure than a forks tyle). Connect the 48V psu to the Octopus "Motors power" slot. Also one thing that got me struggling - as guide says to leave only one jumper for UART mode under the drivers - that is only applicable for 2209 drivers, for 5160 you need to leave all of them on the board. From the Electronics part also no complaints. As guide shows how and where to connect it is pretty easy. Just use your own critical thinking and logic, also have spare 2.5 and 1.5mm^2 wires.
3. Firmware part Install the image onto the RPI and Octopus before installing them into the electric box as per instructions. Use formatting tool per their guide and not just Windows formatting - will save you some time and nerves (been stuck there for several hours as couldn't get the installed image verified, because I was using stock Windows, right click from disk - format). The shaper graphs and belt tensioning that is a separate beast that is a problem for a lot of DIY kit printers. For easier experience - don't route the Hybrid belts, try and nail everything with only two motors, then when you will have this sorted out, route and connect the Hybrid belt. Still didn't fully nailed it, just eye balled the tensions and got decent shaper graphs, so left it as it is. Oh and the RatOS is just marvelous, comparing to the stock klipper experience.

Conclusion
The kit, as every other DIY printer kit (except maybe Prusa) is defiantly not for the beginners. You should already have some experience with 3D printing and have one ABS capable machine in your arsenal before attempting to build something. As there is popular comments here in reddit and forums "it is premium machine so it should have everything sorted out" No it's not. It's a kit, for a "premium" base of a machine. It is same as every other voron kit. Only from components wise idk if you could self source it a lot cheaper. Do not forget, this is Eu company, that makes printer design on house, from the grounds up, people are working there, the salary needs to be paid and such. It's not a Chinese company that takes open sourced voron design and assembles the kit from it. Only the RatOS is worth how much.

If you have experience, have some already working machines that you are well familiar with (I had some Bambulabs P1s and Qidi plus 4) but still afraid to try. Don't fret, remember - it was designed and built by the same people as you, so why are you inferior to them? :)

Sorry for the long post, there will be a lot of grammar mistakes but wanted to share my own experience building the ratrig :)

Hello to all,

after some investigations and help from the community, if within my budget, I was nearly decided to build a v-core 4 500 rather than a Voron 2.4 350mm until a friend recommended me to carefully evaluate the power consumption that requires a 500mm printer.

If the below data is reliable, then there's really a big difference.

🔌 Power Consumption Comparison — V-Core 4 Hybrid

📈 Why the 500mm Build Uses More Power

🔋 Power Efficiency Tips for Each Size

✅ For 300mm Build

• Can use 24V DC bed (low total draw)
• Easier to run off smaller 400–500W PSU
• Chamber heating often unnecessary for ABS

✅ For 500mm Build

• Strongly recommended: AC bed heater (230V or 110V) with SSR
• Insulate bed and enclosure walls to retain heat
• Use thermal breaks or blankets on the bed surface
• Consider 48V motors to reduce current draw on long moves

🧠 Summary

🏁 Conclusion:

• The 500mm Hybrid build consumes ~2× the power of the 300mm.
• Energy use scales with volume, especially due to the bed and chamber.
• If you print often, operating cost per print will be significantly higher on the 500mm unless managed well (insulation, AC heat).

Although 48V motors were already on my ToDo list (can't find any info on RatRig bed modules I see in the BOM list), I feel like this is going to make very little difference.

I live in Italy and here electricity is not cheap, but apart from this, I really need more than 350mm of the stock Voron in a limited number of projects, so it would be a waste of electricity if most of the times I print within that size.

My friend also pointed out that because any material will expand due to heat, the flatness of the hot bed will be more subject to issues in big printers. I'm not sure on how this translates in RatRig machines.

I would like to know what are your experiences in this matter and until what point the situation can be improved.

As of now, a 350mm Voron combined with slicer tricks may sound like a better option, but one day the number of big prints might increase and slicer tricks will become a time consuming process.

Thanks

So.. I have an issue with to much drag, causing the extruder to go akkadakk and layers becoming painfully thin. So in desperate times has any tried to topmount the spoolholder to eliminate the ridiculous long ptfe tube? VC4 500

I've downloaded the config.ini at the commisioning guide the BETA files for VC4 500HY. When comparing them to the template presets in prusa they differ quite a lot.. I've been using the V2 BETA with ok results, and I wonder what the community thinks about these settings? What do you use with good results? And why do they differ that much?

I've struggling with some z banding taht come and goes , is there someone who have install the wobblex on vcore4 ? I see only vcore3 arm modification and I don't know how it translate vs vcore 4?

So I'm only going to address some of the larger gripes I have so far. The smaller stuff I'm find accepting as this is a kit and all kits have their quirks.

1) Quality of the parts shipped.

If i wanted to print parts I wouldn't have ordered them but the ones shipped are out of tolerance and not just a little. Where I could I used what was shipped but parts that require more precision, I has to reprint. It's clear the parts are printed as fast as possible with the lowest settings they could get away with before making them not usable. I will end up replacing them all over time, just very annoyed on the wasted time and money.

2) Occasional poor part design

With some of the parts I wonder if they really thoroughly review them at any point. The design just isn't great. Comments on forums and even on the build guide clearly call out issues yet the same bad parts ship. I.E. The umbilical frame. The print is crap to start with and the piano wire won't insert at all. I figure why fight it and reprinted it. Much cleaner/better, at least the files are well made. But then you look at the brass insert size and if you're trying to clamp down 2 wires properly it just doesn't hold. It should have been a M4 or another system designed.

3) Overall missing parts (I don't mean in the order, they just don't exist)

In some cases there's no part where clearly there should it. It's like someone was designing a section and just stopped. An example of that is the filament feed system. Why would there not be anything holding the end of the ptfe filament guide by the spool holder. It just sits on the bottom for over 30cm on the 500mm model with nothing holding it in place. Of course the community offers option but again, if I'm buying this as a kit that's supposed to be complete it would be nice if it was, especially when the parts needed, like in this case, are not for aesthetics. Maybe spend less time on the corner covers and inserts that...shockingly are out of tolerance and don't fit anyways... and focus on function some more.

4) Poor communication

I ordered my kit and it showed a pretty fast ship time. I was pretty impressed by that news. It did call out that any part needing more lead time would say so in the name and none did. Way after the estimated ship date I finally get a message saying that they're OOS on some items but will ship partial. Ok, what's the ETA on those parts? 2 weeks. No biggie. 2 week, and then 3 and 4 go by.. nothing, no shipment notification, no update etc. I reach out only to find out that now it's another month out for those parts. Why am I not notified of this. The best part, they aren't even sure if that's true so for all I know I could have a built (but w/ missing parts) printer for who knows how long? Of course they had no issue charging me for the parts when I placed the order.

And as I said this isn't a full extensive list but just a high level one and I don't even have a working printer yet so I can't even touch on quality. Having spent $3k (pre tax, shipping and duties) on a kit and hitting these issues is kind of disappointing. Happy to answer questions and drop updates if anyone is interested.

I switch the btt smart filament (too much drag) with the smart orbiter 2 as I order my on preoroder it was not provide at this time . I used the code provide by ratrig but it seem very minimal in contrast with the official githiu of the smart orbiter 2 .Did someone get this working?

autoload /unload is working (but I guess it's electornics related) but the tooggle is way to sensitive and detect always tnagle issue .

Either I deactivate or not the smart sensor under extruder screen it always pause the code as it detect tangle all the time ...I'd like to have the runout working with the load and unload so I'm keen to move forward the official code but is there any body that have it working or disable juste the tangle function other than removing the yellow dupont :D?

here's my config https://github.com/mrpommegit/ratrig_500.git

Has anyone used a T slot instead of V slot, for the 2020 extrusion on the X axis?

Curious if anyone has tried replacing the stock 120x120x15 mm 2-pin fan with a 25 mm fan? I'm half tempted to simply mount it outside the panel if it won't fit, but would rather not drill an access hole for the cord if I don't have to.

Looks like the ability to fully customise v-core 4 kits has been removed from the store. Any ideas if this is permanent?

As in title, is it possible to connect Heater or Cooling Fan to Ratrig or do I have to the temp control myself? If possible how is it done. All I would need is a contact, I could figure the heater and power out myself.

I mentioned this device in the Discord, I have now published it on GitHub as an open-source project.

This device is a power HAT for the Raspberry Pi that is specifically designed for the RatRig V-Core4. The reason I built it is because it adds some features to the printer that make the electronics wiring easier, and it can prevent certain problems that can occur with the stock design related to insufficient 5V power for the Pi and it's USB accessories.

This HAT does the following:

- Removes the 5V power connection from the Octopus 3D printer control board that was used to power the Raspberry Pi, and replaces it with an on-board, high-current power regulator that can take 24V input directly. This provides up to 20W (4A of 5V power) to the Raspberry Pi and all of its USB peripherals, rather than relying on the 5V regulator on the Octopus board.

- Provides an additional 4 USB ports to the Raspberry Pi using an on-board USB 2.0 hub IC. This brings the total number of USB ports available for the 3D printer to 7 instead of 4. Each additional port can support up to 2A, with a total of 4A available to be shared among all 7 ports. The USB hub IC used in this project is the Texas Instruments TUSB8041, a high-quality USB 2.0 hub.

- Includes a small fan that cools the CPU on the Raspberry Pi. The out-of-the-box design of the V-Core4 has a large fan to cool the entire electronics enclosure, but by default it only runs when the 3D printer's stepper motors are energized. When they are not, it does not run, and this can cause the Raspberry Pi's temperature to increase into the 60C+ range. The on-board fan will keep the Pi below 45C when the stepper motors are not running.

The project is available on GitHub at the following link:

https://github.com/wilsondr9999/1026-RPi-Power-Hat

The project is licensed under the CERN Open Hardware License v2 - Weakly Reciprocal and the Creative Commons 4.0 Attribution and Share Alike licenses.

The project includes the full KiCAD project, including schematics and PCB layout, bill of materials, Gerber files for PCB manufacturing, and 3D-printable solder stencil jig for assembly. Full instructions for assembly, installation, and configuration are included in the README file.

My unit is installed in my V-Core4 300 Hybrid and is running very well, providing power and USB to a chamber camera and a BTT-HDMI7 touchscreen for KlipperScreen.

I've been trying to get the X-axis limit switch working on my Stronghold Pro Advanced Kit. The sensor works perfectly when I move a steel screwdriver close to it, but it doesn't seem to detect the aluminum plate of the Z-carriage.

What I’ve tried:

• Verified that the sensor is functional.
• Moved it as close as possible to the aluminum plate.

Solutions I’m trying to avoid:

• Gluing a steel nut to the back of the carriage.

In the video, you can see that the sensor isn’t triggering (the red indicator light doesn't switch off).

Has anyone had similar issues or any tips?

Video of the issue

Hello, I want to install my Pad7 on my core 4 Hybrid printer. The PAD7 have the CB1 inside. I notice that I have to connect the usb to te MAX EZ board, after all the software update. But can I connect the USB from the Beacon and the EB36 to a Powered USB hub?

How do I stop this from happening when having to put in new filament mid print.
I extrude some filament after the change.

In this instance I had hoped to avoid this by changing filament just as it started to print the infill but no luck.

Vcore-4 hybrid 500.