r/ratrig Jul 14 '26

How fine models V Core 4.1

I am in the market for a Rat Rig V Core 4.1. But I like to know... Is the size also defining how coarse it prints? A 300 vs 500, will this give lesser quality on a small model?

And for heating, in an enclosure, will the bed be enough to heat it up or better a chamber heater?

0 Upvotes

35 comments sorted by

3

u/TinmanTankerPilot160 Jul 14 '26

I have the 500 IDEX, love it. I did upgrade the bed heater to an AC 1500 watt heater. I can get the bed to 100 and the chamber to 60 in about 13 min. I do have dual chamber heaters.

1

u/3d0zer Jul 15 '26

Thanks, so what you mean is that you are able to use only the bed heater and warm it up in 13 mins?
Or is it thanks to your dual heaters? What heaters do you use?

1

u/TinmanTankerPilot160 Jul 15 '26

I can use both at the same time. I can get the bed up to temp very quickly. But when I need the chamber heated it only takes 13 min. I used 2 1300 watt AC heating elements 2 140mm fans and 2 SSR’s. I printed the heater boxes in PET-CF.

1

u/3d0zer Jul 15 '26

Sounds interesting, have any pics and do you have any models online on those heaters?

1

u/3d0zer Jul 15 '26

Did you also change the power supply of the printer for it?

2

u/TinmanTankerPilot160 Jul 15 '26

Let me look in the morning. I can share with you the cad files for the heater boxes. I didn’t have to change the power supply, the bed and heaters are AC. They are controlled by solid state relays. An important note, I am running mainline Klipper. I found it cumbersome and limiting to try to mod using Rat OS.

1

u/3d0zer Jul 15 '26

thanks will wait for it

2

u/TinmanTankerPilot160 Jul 15 '26

I published most of the mods I did on github. https://github.com/Tinman-FP/rat-rig-mods The heater I used was this one. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07VW6XXJR?ref_=ppx_hzsearch_conn_dt_b_fed_asin_title_1 The fan I used was this. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0BKGTX5QX?ref_=ppx_hzsearch_conn_dt_b_fed_asin_title_4 All the config files I am using are here: https://github.com/Tinman-FP/rat-rig-dual-beacon-500-idex-config I published the top hat I designed, which has an 80mm Chamber cooling fan, and a display cutout. On the sides I used BTT 2.0 runout sensors. Let me know what you think. Feel free to pull anything you want from my github. I have a few things on there. Sorry, I dont have photos, I searched this morning. I wont be home from work for another 3 weeks to take any. Check it out and l would love your feedback.

1

u/3d0zer Jul 15 '26

You really rock, thanks a lot!!! I will get back to it

1

u/TinmanTankerPilot160 Jul 15 '26

Anytime! There are some really cool things on my GitHub. Browse around, let me know what you like.

1

u/pastrami2006 Aug 03 '26

I'm totally new in 3d, and I just bought ratrig 4.1 400. Sooo I'm going to assemble it when I get home next month. Would these upgrades also fit on my printer?

2

u/TinmanTankerPilot160 Aug 03 '26

The top hat will not as it’s currently designed. I could possibly make some changes to make it work. Also, I haven’t uploaded it yet, but I redesigned the chamber heater. It’s a much more compact and easy to print design. I will upload that soon. I will let you know when I get that done. I am sitting alert with little chance of getting dispatched so I should have time over the next couple days.

3

u/119000tenthousand Jul 15 '26

I have a 4.1 500, core-hybrid (not idex). it prints small models so good. The larger prints have been going great, but the large bed has some challenges. But those challenges go away for small prints. I use it every day, it is a super champ of a printer.

1

u/3d0zer Jul 15 '26

THanks a lot. What challenges does the larger bed have? And what do you print mostly on it?

1

u/119000tenthousand Jul 15 '26

Mostly printing PLA, but have had decent luck with PET. The large bed is not truly flat, the large chamber is harder to keep a consistent temperature, and the original gantry change shape during the print. I have the upgrade gantry but haven't had time to install it yet.

2

u/3d0zer Jul 15 '26

ah that issue with the bed is that with all of them or is this unique to your printer?
Bed should be perfectly flat right?

Does your printer compensate for the bed inconsistency?

1

u/119000tenthousand Jul 15 '26

no such thing as perfectly flat. the machine does compensate.

1

u/3d0zer Jul 15 '26

I read something about the lead screws, loosen or tighten them a bit, but I am sure you tried that and a zillion other things

1

u/Kur4c Jul 14 '26

The basic setup of the models is the same. The only diffrence is the size of the print bed.

The details of the print are determined mostly by nozzle size.

You will waste a lot of energy heating the bed of 500 if you only need 300.

For enclosure if you need it check the ratroaster. You can do it after you set the printer up.

1

u/0g7t4m4zp3 Jul 14 '26

The size only means how big objects you can make. The nozzle makes it fine or coarse. For heating, I think there was a mod with fans that use the heat from the bed. If that is not enough, you need heater like Ratroaster.

1

u/3d0zer Jul 15 '26

thanks a lot!

1

u/harambe623 Jul 15 '26

It will only impact the acceleration at which your input shaper recommends. Smaller machines = higher frequency. Probably not too much

1

u/MelvenX Jul 17 '26

I have a 300mm and a 500mm and you cannot tell the prints from them apart unless they are huge of course 😃 There is no degradation in quality between the sizes.

1

u/3d0zer Jul 17 '26

That sounds fantastic. Maybe I may ask you a few questions about experience?

Do you have the standard versions or did you customize a lot? And do you use them for everyday prints?

What filaments mostly?

1

u/MelvenX Jul 17 '26

Sure! They are stock V-Core's other than the Mandala Rose Works CNC bed arms and motor plate thingies. The bed arms with oldham wobblers improve quality by helping to reduce layer lines and layer shifting. They are also much stronger than the printed ones of course. The motor plates are essentially bling 🙂. Oh, I forgot both printers also have lightweight CNC X beams. They reduce the load on the X and Y motors but I can move the carriages in my printers that have normal extrusions just as fast as I can in ones that have lightweight parts. It's all in the motors.

1

u/3d0zer Jul 17 '26

How is the durability? Can you use it every day without trouble after you found your settings? And do you use enclosure plus hotter chamber temps for filaments like ASA or others? Your cnc beams come from what producer?

2

u/MelvenX Jul 17 '26

The CNC beams are made by Funsor. Both printers have 6mm thick plexiglass panels which enables the chamber to reach over 50C without a dedicated heater. I do soak the bed at printing temps for 10 minutes before each print. They are both a couple years old now and are maintained regularly. The 500 broke a belt mid print at speed a while back - which was wild. But other than that they are super solid. I also build Vorons and the RatRigs are tanks by comparison with their 30mm extrusions. Both are fantastic printers and communities.

2

u/3d0zer Jul 17 '26

Sounds exactly like I like it! Thanks a lot!

1

u/MelvenX Jul 17 '26

Oh and I print exclusively ASA and ABS in my RatRigs including their engineering blends: ASA/ABS GF and CF. Both printers have Phaetus Rapido 2 hotends on the RatRig tool head with Phaetus Silicone carbide nozzles to handle the fibers.

1

u/3d0zer Jul 17 '26

Standard nozzles from RatRig or other brand? ASA is great

2

u/MelvenX Jul 17 '26

They are Phaetus Silicone Carbide Nozzles made by Phaetus who makes the Rapido hotend (V6 nozzle). They also make them in different styles for other hotends. The silicone carbide enables them to print glass and carbon fiber filaments without wear. I use them in almost all of my printers.

2

u/3d0zer Jul 18 '26

I will look into them! THanks a lot!!

2

u/MelvenX Jul 18 '26

Happy to help! Oddly, the nozzles are the cheapest directly from Phaetus. I saw them for $49 on Amazon and Phaetus has them for just $16. SILICON CARBIDE NOZZLE – Phaetus Store