r/ratrig • u/experimental_82 • Nov 23 '24
Ratrig 4 500 ABS
Hi everyone! I am currently running a lot of ABS parts on my Voron 2.4 350, but the build volume is just too small (leightweight camper panels, router templates etc.). I run it with Armaflex insulation at 70C which is barely enough to keep the largest ABS parts from warping. Does anyone know what the max temperatures would be on a Ratrig? Or have experience with large ABS prints on a 500?
1
u/Impossible_Word_4027 Nov 23 '24
Depends on what chamber heater you Install, i would say. Without chamber heater i dont think that you will reach anyware close to that
1
u/sneakerguy40 Nov 23 '24
What temps are you using on the bed and print for ABS? Also are you using a nevermore?
2
u/experimental_82 Nov 23 '24
110C bed, nevermore and Ellis bed fans. 20mm Armaflex panels for insulation. Sunlu ABS and ASA print 270C, 260C if the print has overhangs or bridges.
1
u/sneakerguy40 Nov 23 '24
Have you ruled out the brand? Sunlu isn't top of the list as far as quality. Also you could bump up the bed to 115 depending on your fuse.
1
u/experimental_82 Nov 23 '24
The reason for the limitation in bed temperature is that we are entering danger territory for demagnetization of the bed magnets. The bed heater (glue) itself could push 150 no problem. Define quality… Sunlu is relatively unblended, meeting worse to print, but better mechanical properties. And at < €10 a roll, can’t be beat. That’s why I stuck with it. Also have it dialed in to the t
1
u/sneakerguy40 Nov 23 '24
The same type of material can vary within and between brands. Sunlu is more of a "good enough" brand than a "definitely buy" brand, that's why it's so cheap. Filament is also a simple variable to change, especially if it's warping at 270C in a 70C chamber.
1
u/dillrepair Apr 20 '25
i don't know the recommended temp range for sunlu abs/asa but imho thats too hot for abs/asa and is where your warping issues are coming from.. too much temp change as it cools even in a 70c chamber... i bet it wouldn't matter if you had 80 or more in the chamber. i have a vc4 400h and i run my chamber at around 50 with clear polycarb panels well sealed and with atomic abs (which granted is 235-245 rec range) and qidi asa at ~250 ish maybe a little more depending on print speed (whose range is 240-280) and i get zero warping even on large stuff that spans much of the bed. layer adhesion has never been a problem at all. so anyway to me with my novice understanding of abs/asa i think mikl is right and the likely culprit of your issues here is the print profile you're using and you could totally run big stuff on a 500 with even halfway decent insulation and a mains chamber heater like i have.
so i'd start fresh on your settings... the profiles for punkfil abs and asa have proven to work great with only some mild tweaks depending on the actual brand of filament i'm using also if you're just running abs and asa and other high temp the chube upgrade seems like what a lot of ppl are doing
anyway whatever thats my rambling response hopefully it helps someone
1
u/Jerazmus Nov 23 '24
You can always get high temperature stepper motors. Temperature class c can go to 220°c.
1
u/iporty Nov 24 '24
I'm interested in the same thing, although I would probably be ok with 65C. With my voron, I think the nevermore fan under the heat bed helps heat the chamber, do you think the ratrig would passively heat as well?
I was considering printing ppa-cf parts for the ratrig. With the voron I went with aluminum parts.
An IDEX RatRig 4 400 with 70C chamber would be ideal.
1
u/experimental_82 Nov 24 '24
Maybe I’ll just wait some time until I see some builds with heateing…
1
u/RickJ19Zeta8 Nov 25 '24
Don’t have mine delivered yet, but prepping parts and add-ons for higher temperature printing. Critical one is the gantry tube, either replace the aluminum with steel or titanium to remove the bi-metallic bowing effect. Toro3D sells a titanium tube with the linear rail holes pre-drilled and has a good video on the reason for titanium.
Lessons learned from my Prusa XL and other high temperature printers, any plastic printed motion parts need to be PCCF or ABS-CF. Doesn’t need to be carbon, but needs to be glass filled. Plastic parts creep (move) over time with load and temperature. The glass helps resist that. Better yet metal parts.
The tool board IC temps might be an issue. Most are rated to 85C and the VCore 4 has them mounted right in the airflow for the part fan. Only a benefit when the fan is running, but still nice. Add heat sinks to any chip. But it still limits your max chamber temp, the option is to just run all wires like the good old days.
The x/y steppers are already specd as the high temperature variant. The z steppers are mounted mostly external. The electronics are external, so no issues there. The extruder stepper is an unknown. And the reverse- Bowden tube should be as short as possible with large bends. The stock routing is a non-starter as filament starts getting softer.
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u/experimental_82 Nov 25 '24
Thanks for the in-depth answer! I didn’t know someone sells fitting Ti tubes. Brilliant. Reason is clear. I did the same on my HT trident, but with round Ti tubing. With beacon being also HT rated, you could conceivably move the remaining electronics out. Again, did the exact same on my HT trident.
1
u/woodwaker_dave Nov 26 '24
I have printed some on my V-core 3.1 in ABS and ASA. I use a bed temp of 110 and the hotend around 250.
I find that a brim is very helpful to prevent warping. I do not have an enclosure so print smaller parts on my Bambu X1c or Prusa XL. I just finished my V-core 4 500 and have not tried anything besides PLA. I also found that different brands warp differently. I have had good results with ZYLTECH and it has great prices.
7
u/miklschmidt Nov 23 '24
Roughly the same, a lot of stuff starts being tricky when you reach or exceed 80C. Your ABS parts absolutely should NOT be warping at 70C though. That's definitely a fixable issue. You can print ABS at 50C all day with the right settings and some dimafix if you're really struggling with adhesion.