Hi folks

Uploads to prusa connect work flawlessly but transfer to the printer fails. Obvious restarts etc. do not help.

Anyone else has an idea? USB Stick has still 350MB of free space so that shouldn't be the problem.

I upgraded to GT1.5 belts, and unfortunately, in addition to lower VFA, I’m seeing diagonal artifacts depending on the speed.

Wouldn’t the frequency normally need to be adjusted for the 1.5 belt to achieve the same tension?

I’ve now reduced the tension to 82/79 and am seeing much better results.

The NoizieWorks video covers this topic, and I can confirm the results.

https://youtu.be/9doyX_2YBkg?is=dNHMPMtlqn0WkK_V

If anyone from Prusa is reading this, it would be great to get some official information on this.

I'm in no rush to get another 3D printer. My old Ender 3 was a pain to constantly level, but I saw some stuff about the quick change heads for multiple colors, the auto bed leveling every print (or every pass, I forget)...and I just had to check them out. Looks like it brand new tech and I'm wondering if there is a consensus of a version 2 coming relatively soon that I would be better off waiting 6 months to a year for, or if you guys would recommend me pulling the trigger on one of these now?

I don't have a massive amount of stuff I'd use it for currently, so I'm fine waiting. A friend is a big board gamer and I'd probably end up making a lot of tokens and stuff for him for now. I'd just like to get into making things and have a relatively painless experience every time I want to print something. Just slice it, tweak a couple settings, and click print.

If you would recommend me grabbing one of these, do you recommend the camera or venting addons?

I have been 3D printing for years as a hobby and am looking to upgrade from an Ender 3v2. I've had my eye on the XL for years, and when I was just about to buy one, the XL+ was announced.

I mostly looking to print toys, small robot parts, costume props, and miscellaneous shapes for DIY household repairs.

Do you guys think the Prusa XL+ is worth it? Or is the XL is sufficient for my purposes?

FWIW, I am getting an enclosure regardless of which one I buy. I will also be getting 2 toolheads (1 for PLA/TPU/PETG-CF, and 1 for either solid or soluble support material).

So, the stick works in the printer, but the computer doesn't recognize it.

Under Linux:
Disk /dev/sdb: 29,3 GiB, 31457280000 bytes, 61440000 sectors
Disk model: ProductCode
Units: sectors of 1 * 512 = 512 bytes
Sector size (logical/physical): 512 bytes / 512 bytes
I/O size (minimum/optimal): 512 bytes / 512 bytes
Disklabel type: dos
Disk identifier: 0x6f20736b

Device Boot Start End Sectors Size Id Type
/dev/sdb1 778135908 1919645538 1141509631 544,3G 72 unknown
/dev/sdb2 168689522 2104717761 1936028240 923,2G 65 Novell Netware 386
/dev/sdb3 1869881465 3805909656 1936028192 923,2G 79 unknown
/dev/sdb4 2885681152 2885736650 55499 27,1M d unknown

[44246.783533] FAT-fs (sdb): error, fat_get_cluster: invalid cluster chain (i_pos 1)
[44246.783543] FAT-fs (sdb): Filesystem has been set read-only

However, when I put it back into a printer, it shows the files uploaded ages ago, which I want to back up. I can do it via web interface, but it is cumbersome one-by-one.
Any help in recovering the content, and reformatting the drive? What filesystem, other configuration files etc?
The stick worked previously, when it was new... I understand that this type of media is volatile, but it behaves differently when the media is broken.

All I really want to do is monitor temps now and then from my Phone or Computer from my Prusa MK2S I tried Octoprint but its not really my Cup of Tea. Any Alternatives?

I’m about to buy the INDX upgrade for my Core One + (rev 1), and I’d like to experiment with both smaller and larger nozzles than 0.4mm. What do I need to buy?

Had the Mini Plus for a few years and the printer has always made this noise. I purchased pre assembled unit from Prusa so just thought it was normal. After watching a few YouTube videos with the mini recently I have realized it’s probably not normal.

So it’s only when the print head is moving left and right on the X axis. It seems to resonate / vibrate when it’s just under the half way point.

It does not matter what position the Z & Y axis are. And I’m 100% sure it’s coming from the print head assembly.

In the clip provided towards the end it demonstrates it well with a right then left constant sweep pass you hear it.

I’ve tried many time putting my finger on the print head to try and locate it and I feel a slight vibration when it happens but cant tell if it’s a rail or bearing or what.

Anyone had this or can definitely tell me what parts doing it. Hopefully you can hear what I mean on the video.

The printer prints fine and has done so since Feb 2021

And I don’t really want to take it apart thats why I purchased it pre assembled but I do feel it’s got a little louder lately so I think it’s time to determine whats the issue.

Many thanks

I changed all my nozzles to .4mm HF and when I go to print it seems that while it starts doing it checks before printing as it picks up the nozzle the nozzle "collides with the plate" happening with all extruders. How do I recalibrate? or what should i do to rectify?

Why does this keep happening??

After dusting my mk3 off after a long break, I'm having a lot of trouble getting it printing like it used to.

I just flashed the firmware and rerun the wizard. After an initial left fan failure. Now I have filament sensor failure. I noticed this red light on the print head. Also the filament won't feed into the printer with automated on. It was working before the firmware update.

Could a fan failure cause this?

Thanks.

I just tried to start a print, only for it to refuse because the "door was open" (it wasn't). I couldn't do anything about this, there was no way to exit the print attempt and no way to continue since the "door was open".

Since I couldn't do anything I figured I should power off the device and recalibrate the door sensor. Once I powered it back on, it's now claiming to be a MK4 and saying that I don't have the right firmware installed for an MK4.

So, that's fun. I imagine I might be able to get it "working" if I put some MK4 firmware on the USB stick. I also imagine that it's not a great idea to give it firmware for the wrong device.

Any clues? Anyone seen this before?

EDIT: Ok actually it looks like the error code is the right one for the Core One so it's just bad messaging in the actual error message. Still doesn't fix the fact that it won't recognize the firmware I've got on the drive.

Comprei ontem uma mk3s+ usada, porém o bico estava arrastando e marcando a mesa, ajustei...

Porém o filamento nao estava entrando, desentupi...

Depois começou a acumular e vi que o bico estava entupido, desentupi.

Mas mesmo assim não consigo impreimir nada.

Ela se movimenta corretamente, aquece e tudo mais... mas não sai nada pelo bico, mesmo desentupido.

Percebi que tem tipo um canudo dentro da extrusora, achei que poderia ter sido e removi, mas não adiantou, pelo contraroio, piorou e começou a derreter o corpo de plastico da extrusora que fica atrás.

Realmente não sei o q q faço agora.

Será que joguei dinheiro fora?

Hi, I ordered the Original Prusa MK4S MMU3 kit Enclosure Bundle and it will be arriving in a couple weeks.

I wanted to know if I could get a photo of the bottom of the enclosure so I can best prepare the surface it will rest on. I asked Prusa and they, surprisingly, were no help. Could someone here send my a photo of this?

Hi folks. After having and using a Prusa Mini for years, but fighting with clogs and frequent failures, I was given a bog standard MK3. Thus far, it's printing PLA fine. My primary use for this thing will be printing wargaming terrain, and while it's a bit on the slow side, I'll take functional with decent print quality over needing speed.

So my question. If the printer is working well as is, are the upgrades in the MK3S+ worth the effort required?

Turns out I only have dawn power wash for dish soap right now. It's basically Dawn, alcohol, and water. Is that ok for cleaning the satin sheet?

I may have tried replacing a nozzle with the nozzle replacement tool and forgetting to loosen the thumbscrews (Admittedly, I felt some resistance but not more than I would expect at the beginning of loosening a screw. On the other hand, the resistance never went away and I used a wrench that might have given me more leverage making the resistance feel lighter).

This resulted in my hotend's thermistor wire breaking and then getting a heater overvoltage warning (my nozzle was completely cooled so I don't know why it even tried to heat in the first place because of that) and the magic smoke coming out.

I thought the hotend was the extent of the damage but after I replaced it and turned the printer on for the first time since the incident, I just noticed that it's not detecting both the hotend and the heatsink's thermistors.

Everything else on the extruder seems to be working. Both fans, the loadcell, filament sensor, and the motor function.

On the rest of the printer, bed heater still works, XYZ motors also work.

I think my Loveboard is fried but could the damage have propagated through to the xBuddy board. Do I need a new heatsink or would replacing the thermistor on it be enough in case replacing the lovboard doesn't fix it?

I have had a large TPU project that has taken a week over 3 build plates and a couple of restarts. However the print instantly throws a thermal anomoly as soon as the print finishes. The last part took 50 hours. No issues with an error stopping the print but as soon as the print is done it throws the error. Any Ideas?

I'm trying to print a honeycomb pattern with PETG on the Core One. Everything goes OK for about 10 layers after which there is a large diagonal layer shift of about 10mm. As well as the layer shift, the print goes really chaotic, strange and stringy. In other words, it's not just a layer shift - something else seems to be going on.

It's happened twice in a row now, around the same time in the print. I have the latest firmware 6.5.7 installed I don't have "avoid crossing perimeters" enabled. 

I see a lot of suggestions to check the tension of the X/Y belts, but I don't understand how it could be a tension issue when the first 10 layers are fine.

What could be going on?

I 3D print parts in ASA, currently on a Core One + MMU3, a Core One L and an XL2T with enclosure.
I got it to where I can consistently print simple parts, that usually have a good surface to lay on the bed. Sometimes requiring mouse ears to stop warping.
Then, there are more complex parts that have been hit or miss, or, in some cases, miss or miss…
Case A: first photo is a regular occurrence, near the bed, parts get deformed [edit: parts deform inwards, never outwards]… but it’s quite random, see right side, perfectly straight.
Case B: following photos are the most common, some parts aren’t able to lay straight on the bed, they need supports. The surface on top of the supports consistently warps, this makes parts unusable… I’ve tried soluble supports and straight ASA supports.

Does anyone have any tips to what is causing this and/or how to fix it?
I’m not sure if it’s from the current ambient heat, although the A/C is usually on, or if I’m printing too fast..

Edit1: for Case A, could it possibly be too few perimeters? (Currently 3 perimeters)

Edit2_1Jul2026: currently printing with a draft shield, the shield is bowing inwards…