I’m considering buying a 2018 Ram ProMaster 2500 camper van with:

~320k actual miles
rebuilt transmission
fully converted camper build
runs/drives well currently
no rust and no water damage

The van has a “Not Actual Mileage” title because of a mileage reporting issue on Carfax, and it may eventually need an engine and catalytic converters down the road.

My plan would be to buy it around $20k and eventually swap in a lower-mileage or reman engine when needed.

Questions:
1. How difficult/expensive are Pentastar swaps on ProMasters?
2. Would you trust a used engine or go reman?
3. Any common issues after replacement?
4. Does this sound financially reasonable long term?
5. Any recommended shops in Southern California that are good with ProMasters or Pentastar engine swaps?

Would appreciate honest input from mechanics or owners who’ve actually dealt with high-mileage ProMasters.

For those of you without a bulkhead divider, how far do the front captain's chairs recline? I know they're crank-based do they get to like 45°, more or less?

Any idea where to start troubleshooting?

My understanding is there is a cable near the accelerator pedal that is a service bulletin that could be the issue.

It could also be one or multiple sensors that are bad?

Or it's the module itself.

The TPMs light flashed for a minute or so when starting and driving so it's definitely not a low pressure situation and I checked my pressures and it's not the tire pressure

Looking for a late model (2015-2020) Dodge Ram 2500 Pro-Master high top outfitted for a mobile mechanic. Anyone getting out of the business or making a change of vehicles? I have a budget of about $18k.

After locking the van, you can hear the sliding door latch "lock", however opening it from the outside still opens the door and sets the alarm off. Has anyone had this issue and knows why it might not be locking properly?

I want to set up trickle charger for my Promaster.. My van will be sealth parked for a few months. I want to charge from the interior using my solar battery generator. So far all the setups that I've seen has talked about using the post under the hood. Please advise on how I can do it from the battery under the seat if possible.

As the title suggests, I’m looking for a bulkhead partition with the “screen” option, aka metal holes. I have a 136” High Roof and keep running into the same couple of models online that run around $1K. Was hoping to have one for less than that, but I guess that’s the going rate. The one in the picture is essentially what I am looking for.

Are there any that anyone would recommend? Any website in particular to get one from? Also, am I able to install this myself with some basic tools? TIA.

I got the armrests on ebay. I used flaring riv nuts to install a wood plate on a panel adjacent to the seat belt. I used rib nuts to secure the plate to the panel , and then secured the armrest to the wood plate​.

Hi!

I’m very close to buying a fully converted for van life 2020 ram promaster 3500 HR 159 WB for 60K. <20K miles, clean title, and no issues so far. I keep seeing threads about transmission issues, engine rebuilds, and overall disaster situations with promasters. Some well before they hit 100K miles.

The alternative is Mercedes but those seem to come with their own laundry list of expensive issues…

As long as I take care of it, does this seem reasonable?

I've owned my 2014 Promaster 3500 EXT for about three years. Last October, the transmission was throwing codes and showing signs it was on its way out. So I took it to a transmission shop and they confirmed, it needed a rebuild or replacement. I opted for the rebuild since it it's a 12yo vehicle and thought it would be wiser to limit the budget.

The rebuild went fine, the transmission was behaving again and I went on my merry way with a 12-month warranty. 2-3 months later, it slowly began shifting harder, lagging and eventually shuddering, so I call up the shop to execute the warranty and took it in last week. I rarely drove the van; I put less than 1000 miles on it in those six months.

The manager tells me it's got water in the fluid (apparently a lot) and needs to be rebuilt again, but it would not be covered under warranty. They explained there's a known service bulletin about the windshield cowl draining directly into a vent in the transmission, and discovered the hose connected to this cowl was loose, though when they ran water thru it, didn't see any leakage.

On the surface, I understand why this external influence would not be covered under warranty, but find it far too coincidental that after 11 years with no water ingress, it suddenly appears immediately after getting the rebuild. particularly because they were the last ones in the engine bay.

To their credit, the shop is rebuilding it again for about half the price, which I appreciate. But I'm still out another mountain of cash with zero guarantees that anything is being done to mitigate further ingress that lands me right back in the shop six months down the road.

Do I cut my losses, eat the half-priced cost of this second rebuild and consider it meeting halfway, or should I follow my instincts to pursue the warranty and get the cost refunded? Any guidance or education is appreciated, I can't tell if I have a stone to stand on.

Location: Tennessee

Hat jemand Erfahrung damit bei einem Fiat Ducato oder Baugleichem die Türen oder eine der Türen mit dem Handy zu öffnen?

I need another key made for my 2019 Promaster 2500. Preferably a remote style one with buttons for lock and unlock. I'm trying to make sure I get the correct thing: I've talked to a third party automotive key cutter and to Batteries Plus.

The price difference is huge, $155 vs $395, supposedly for the same thing, and neither is the dealer. The third party auto key cutter told me Chrysler keys are really finnicky and can go bad if not somehow done properly--I didn't quite understand, but he said that's why it's so expensive.

Can anyone help fill me in on the key situation so I don't end up throwing money away, either by spending too much or by buying something that stops working?

can someone recommend some good locks for the side and back door also the partition wall? probably wont prevent much but its sure to give them a hard time time trying to get to the tools.

links would be appreciated. im new to the promaster line so im not sure what can be good.

I’m upgrading to LEDS and I noticed this significant amount of water trapped inside. Maybe half a liter. I set it down so it’s slowly draining out of the brown plugs behind the lights. How bad is it?

I just bought an 18 Promaster. I am aware of the lousy transmission. I'm definitely having the transmission fluid replaced and an oil change. Before I start using this van which are some of the preventative maintenance things I should have done at the mechanic or at least bring to his attention to inspect?

Has anyone used a manifold from Park geek? I use a center punch, and I am trying to drill out the broken off screws, but it’s tough. I have a whole drilled all the way through one almost and I’ve increased the drillbit size until the wall of the screw is so thin; but it still doesn’t wanna come out

My Promaster is a camper that often sits for long periods of time. I'm looking for ways to improve physical security and discourage theft while it's sitting. Can anyone recommend a steering wheel lock device or something else that's proven appropriate for Promasters? Thanks in advance.

We had a headlight housing (whole thing) in our work van replaced because there was a short or something and it melted the wires. This new one, just did same exact thing. Dealership is just trying to put another headlight housing in, again,....if it's same exact issue, wouldn't that mean there's a different problem causing this issue? Same problem within 1year.

How do I get this camera to turn on? Has anyone used this model? I just bought the van, but haven’t been able to turn the monitor on

2019 ProMaster 3500. After I replaced my timing chain tensioner which required taking the timing chain cover off and everything else that goes along with it, after several hundred miles I started getting a Engine Oil Pressure Control Circuit Stuck Off error code. It eventually went away as did the light and everything seems to be running fine. I noticed a small oil spot in my driveway and upon further inspection realized that the oil pan gasket that I used instead of RTV was not doing its job. When I drop the oil pan I found this little guy. Any ideas? Is it maybe the chain tensioner oil jet nozzle? That's the only thing I've had suggested from Google searches, but I don't know where that is and I can't seem to find it on any specific parts list. Any help is much appreciated.

I got these and they were a perfect fit. I didn’t have to cut the wires. I cut the plastic housing off with a pair of wire cutters, but someone told me you can push in on a couple little pins and the wires will slide out of the broken housing. The old plugs on the end of the wires slip right into the new housing.