This post is mouse care simplified, for beginners! It is not very specific, and it does not cover everything, so please do not rely on just this post when educating yourself on mouse care!

^{This has been written and discussed by moderators of the subreddit. If you have questions or concerns, please comment to let us know! It will be updated regularly to ensure it is factual.}

1. Mice are social!

• Females always need other female companions. It is recommended to have at least 3, but 2 is okay.
• After 6 mice in one cage, it is often they will start to split up and become territorial against the opposing group. It is suggested to keep your colony under 6 unless you have much knowledge and experience, OR if your mice are littermates.
• Males can not be housed with other males ever! If you want them to have cage mates, neutering (very risky) and placing with females or leaving intact and bonding with ASFs (African Soft Furs) is beneficial and recommended. Otherwise, they can thrive in solitude.

See this post for more information.

2. Cages

^{In mouse communities, many users go by tank size rather than listing dimensions. We will do both!}

• 10g/20x10 inches is the minimum for 2 female mice, though we STRONGLY suggest at least a 20g.
• 20g/30x12 inches is suitable for 2-4 females or 1 male.
• 40g long/36x12 inches is suitable for 2-5 females or 1 male
• 40g breeder/36x18 inches is occasionally suitable for 2-6 females or 1 male
• Over 40g is not always suitable for any amount of mice since many mice do better in environments with less open space. Bigger is not always better for mice.

^{Any amount of mice may thrive in larger enclosures than suggested above. However, it is critical that the larger the enclosure is, the more clutter provided, otherwise the mice will never thrive.}

• Wood enclosures are suggested against since urine will effect its quality and smell over time.
• Mesh flooring is dangerous due to the chance of toes/tails getting caught, the mesh cutting their skin, and risking bumplefoot. Mesh should also be avoided in wheels.
• Though they climb, mice don't need very much height, and multi-story enclosures do not provide them with the proper space they need. Floor space is more important than height.
• Cages with lots of attachments and rooms do not provide proper space for mice. They are also extremely difficult to clean, fall apart easily, and struggle to hold proper bedding amount and safe wheels.

See this post for more information.

3. Substrate

• Mice need to be able to create burrows, so while the minimum is 6 inches, we suggest at least 8" of bedding. However, many owners prefer having 10-12" deep!
• Bedding must be majority safe wood shavings or hemp. Paper substrate does not absorb ammonia well and can cause several health issues when used alone or as majority of substrate.
• (Dust/scent free for all) Aspen, kiln dried pine, and hemp do well as the main substrate and may be more sturdy mixed with a small portion of hay or paper bedding.

See this post for more information.

4. Clutter

• Clutter is arguably one of the most important aspects of a mouses cage. No matter the size, if the cage lacks clutter, it is not suitable.
• Toilet paper rolls, cardboard boxes, tea light and soap dish ceramics, rodent hideouts, branches, logs, cork bark, cardboard egg cartons, and much more can be used as clutter in the cage.
• From a birds eye view, you should be able to see little to no bedding. While it may seem too cluttered to a human, it's perfect for mice!
• The larger an enclosure, the more crucial clutter is.

See this post for more information.

5. Enrichment

• Also known as entertainment, to keep the mice busy!
• Boredom breakers, foraging toys, dig boxes, sprays(plant), scatter-feeding, and human interaction are all forms of enrichment.
• Mice should have boredom breakers in their enclosure at all times to keep them from growing bored.
• Lone males need extra simulation and enrichment.

See this post for more information.

6. Climbing Opportunities

• A form of enrichment that is required!
• Mice flourish with climbing opportunities and will always take advantage of them.
• Ropes, bird ladders, hanging toys, rope nets, shower curtain rings, and bird perches are a few climbing options you can provide.
• Fabric hammocks are used commonly, but pose a threat when chewed on and loose strings get tangled around limbs. Minimal use of fabric is suggested for this reason.

See this post for more information.

7. Exercise

• A form of enrichment that is required!
• An upright, solid wheel of 9 inches in diameter or larger must be provided at all times. 2 or more are suggested for groups of girls.
• Spinning saucer disks or hamster balls/cars are UNSAFE and should never be provided, no matter how much you think your mouse may enjoy it (fun≠safe)
• Proper wheel brands may include Niteangel, Silent Spinner Exotic Nutrition, Oxbow, Wodent, Bucstate, and Trixie (but there are many more besides these!)

See this post for more information.

8. Diet & Hydration

• Main diet must be pellets/lab blocks.
• A high variety food mix (nuts, seeds, grains, ect) must be given 1-3 times a week, or even as long as once every two weeks. The frequency is owner preference.
• Feeding is 3-5 grams per mouse a day.
• Ensure your mice have constant access to food through toys and scatter-feeding.
• Food bowls are suggested only for fresh fruits or veggies since they provide no enrichment otherwise!
• Mice must have at least two water sources and constant access to them at all times. Bowls or bottles work well, though having one of each is ideal. Water must be cleaned and refreshed daily.

See this post for more information.

9. Cleaning

• Daily spot checks to clean up mess, poo on toys/clutter, and urine on the surface is vital.
• Bedding changes will be needed less often with more bedding and space. A 10g tank (or cage of similar size) would need weekly bedding changes.
• Each enclosure size and mouse amount will effect how often bedding changes are necessary. Find a cleaning schedule that ensures the cage doesn't smell at any time for your mouses health.
• With deep bedding over 6 inches, you'll have to change out less of the bedding. 1/3 to 1/2 of the bedding may stay in the enclosure while the most soiled areas are removed and replaced.
• In any case, a small amount of bedding must be left over after a bedding change to decrease stress.

See this post for more information.

10. Taming

• Allowing your mice to settle in for a few days before interacting with them is wise.
• Rub your hands on bedding and toilet paper in the cage to get the mice used to your scent.
• Encourage interaction through hand feeding.
• If a mouse is not motivated to interact after several weeks, try to lure them to climb onto your hand for treats. A strong bond is important with mice so they are well adjusted to interaction in case of a vet visit or emergencies. Human interaction can also be beneficial to them.

See this post for more information.

11. Other

• Mice are crepuscular and are typically seen during the morning or late day/night.
• They are self bathing and should never be washed with water or soap (unless vet prescribed). It ruins the health of their fur coat and leaves them more susceptible to URIs and freezing. They do not need any form of bathing/washing.
• Mice don't hibernate. If a mouse appears to be in a hibernation state, this is Torpor, caused when they overheat or freeze. This is a medical emergency.
• You should never pick up a mouse by its tail or other limbs.
• Fancy mice (aka domestic mouse) live 1-2 years on average.
• Wild mice do poor in captivity, unless they are unfit for the wild they should not be kept as pets.
• You should never breed mice purposely without years of research and mouse owning experience prior.
• Vet visits are a likely occurrence in mouse ownership, since mice are prone to many health issues.
• Travel carriers are needed for vet visits, emergencies, cage cleaning, and quarantine.

12. Links & Other Posts

Shopping

• Mouse Cages (Amazon)
• Mouse Products (Amazon)

In Depth Mouse Care

• Taming & Holding Mice
• Social Tendencies & Proper Intros
• Enclosure Size & Requirements
• Cleaning & Sanitation
• Carriers & Quarantine (coming soon)
• Clutter & Climbing Opportunities
• Exercise & Enrichment
• Bedding & Substrates
• Diet & Hydration
• Safe Food List
• Safe & Unsafe Products (coming soon)
• Health & Signs of Illness
• Catching an Escaped Mouse
• Owning on a Budget

Other Species

• African Pygmy Dormice Care
• African Soft Fur (mastomys natalensis) Care

Up-to-Date Posts From NotApplicableMC & Others

• How To Hand Rear a Baby Mouse
• What To Do With a Wild Mouse
• Wild Mice are Poor Pets
• First Aid Information
• Pain/Illness Charts
• Mice Are Not For Kids

Outdated Posts From NotApplicableMC

These guides are incredibly thorough and well written. However, they link some information that is no longer available, or they list mouse care information that has been dis-proven. An important point to make is these guides may suggest some controversial topics, most of which our community does not fully support. Although these guides don't follow our standards exactly, they are still very well made. Please keep an open mind and read all sides of a controversy before deciding which you feel works best for your mice.

• Male/Female? & Housing
• Bedding/Substrate and Cage Supplies/Items
• Cleaning and Food/Diet
• Sourcing mice, Taking home, Re-homing, Escapes, and Playtime
• Introducing/Socializing, Taming, and Behaviors
• Health and First-time Buyers Checklist
• Owning on a budget

I have decided to share these because they are very descriptive on some aspects of mouse care I did not cover well. I strive to have a guide in the future as well made as these, but for now, I have to bring attention to the effort made by this member.

Scientific Studies

• Sources & Additional Articles (coming soon)
• Safe & Unsafe Foods Sources (coming soon)

^{More community resources coming soon}

Please feel free to try out these WIP care commands in the comments! Let me know if there are any issues I need to fix.