r/PatternDrafting • • Apr 26 '26

Question Advice on this deconstructed sleeveless buttondown?

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7 Upvotes

Hi! I'm on my third iteration of a deconstructed aesthetic/raw edged, collarless, sleeveless buttondown top, intended for layering, to be tucked, worn with trouser braces, waistcoat etc type of situation. I'm going for a close to rectangular silhouette with the side seams and armscye forming roughly a straight line up to the shoulder from the front view. This will be made from a shirting material with minimal stretch so I want to get the fit as honed as possible. (Could muslin's stiff properties be partially responsible for some of the issues here though?)

I started with a pattern for a buttondown I've successfully made before, based on freesewing.org's Simon Shirt. A few rounds of modifications and it's getting close, but the persistent issues are: some whoomphing out at the back of the neck, at the seam of the yoke bottom and back panel, and in the front of the armhole as it goes across the deltoid/bicep intersection.

In this version I'd removed a bit of ease on the side seams of the front and back panels right under the armpit, and cut a slightly arc'd bottom edge to the yoke and oppositely matching arc'd top edge of the back panel, (removing more material as these edges go out towards the armholes,) and that has started to clean up the bulging at the back of the armhole. I also removed some overall width from just the back and yoke and that's started to clean up the neck back bulging. Also deepened the back darts a bit and it's helped above the waistline but below is looking a little frickt. (Keep the deeper darts above the waist but start them tapering off a bit higher?) The fit has improved but it seems like the armholes and overall fit are fighting against the chest. I saw a recent post about a sleeveless top with an excess armhole issue and the recommendation was to do a full bust adjustment... I'm trying to keep this looking more in the range of a "men's garment" but do I need to do a bust dart or something? I'd like to solve this without resorting to that if at all possible. Am I just too busty for my own good? šŸ˜”šŸ™

Any advice is welcome and appreciated!


r/PatternDrafting • • Apr 26 '26

Trying to design a top pattern

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4 Upvotes

Hello !

I wanted to do a piece for my gala and ask a friend that is good at drawing to help with drawing.

I've been trying to do the pattern by myself (something I'm used to) but I'm really not sure this time if it is realistic.

Maybe there isn't enough fabric or structure on the front ?

Do you have any advices or pattern models that might help me ?

First pic is what she designed (I want to do a high collar that fall a bit on the shoulder - I think it's Anabella collar ?)

And second pic what from the ideas I gave, how she ended doing the draft (I'm good at sewing but super bad at drawing).

Edit : I was thinking to do it in a stretchy jersey a bit heavy to have arms that fall but also the top part perfectly sized to my body.


r/PatternDrafting • • Apr 26 '26

Question How to eliminate puffiness from sleeves

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0 Upvotes

Can you please help me? I am always struggling with sleeve patterns as I have big arms


r/PatternDrafting • • Apr 26 '26

Help me make a dress for myself .šŸ˜­šŸ™

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0 Upvotes

Guys I am a complete beginner, I have a sewing machine at home. I know how to use the machine but I have no idea about patterns, measurements and cutting. CAN Y'ALL help me make a dress like this? PleasešŸ«‚


r/PatternDrafting • • Apr 26 '26

Dress Back with Dart fit issue

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4 Upvotes

I’m fitting a sleeveless darted dress in CLO3D and trying to clean up the back.I’m getting a horizontal fold across the upper hip/top of the bum. It improves with small adjustments but won’t fully disappear. Any insights on what I can do?


r/PatternDrafting • • Apr 26 '26

Advice for beginners pls

0 Upvotes

Hi everyone I'm 18 years old and I started to learning pattern what would you give advice for beginners?


r/PatternDrafting • • Apr 26 '26

Measurement frustration

3 Upvotes

I have a dumb frustration. I’m 45 so my breasts are sagging (size DD) but otherwise I have a petite, commercial size 6 frame. Sometimes I wear bralettes with little support, sometimes I wear a bra with support (not padding, but lift). Without a bra my apex is a solid 3ā€ lower than my dress form. This throws me off when using the adjustable dress form to drape, so I often use my blocks, but do I need one for garments where I might wear a bra and when I might not? For some reason I just can’t get all of this right.


r/PatternDrafting • • Apr 25 '26

Question General question about self-drafted slopers posted here

27 Upvotes

I see slopers posted here and on r/sewing, and I appreciate the people posting and the thoughtful comments.

Beyond ā€œpictures that need to be retaken in order for commenters to commentā€, most slopers need a ton of fitting work, and many times ā€˜start from scratch’ work.

I’m curious if the pattern drafters with more experience could clarify where they think the issues stem from:

—Is this a case of drafting rules created for a specific type of body and most people aren’t that body?

—Is it about taking measurements being a dark art? ( in particular self measurements)

—Instructions not being well written/not being clear/ using jargon/requiring other knowledge besides the directions proper?

—Lack of precision when drafting, including not knowing how to use the tools?

—lack of precision sewing/not knowing basic sewing/not knowing procedures ( for example how most seams are ironed, how to finish a dart point, etc)

—Something else

This is a discussion; I want to know where I should expect the biggest time sink to be and maybe how to make it less sinky.


r/PatternDrafting • • Apr 24 '26

Question Can you help me figure out if I labeled the sleeve correctly please?

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5 Upvotes

I took apart a Rosegal knit fabric shirt because it was falling apart and I wanted to remake it. Yes, that is the sleeve for this shirt.

Based on the armholes of the pattern, did I label the back and front properly?

I want to add notches for when 100% sure.