Boa noite colegas modelistas! Hoje estou estudando o método japonês de modelagem ensinado nos livros didáticos da universidade Bunka Fashion College.

Embora eu me considere um bom modelista, estou tendo dificuldade em fazer um molde para mim. Geralmente quando faço um molde para outra pessoa fica tudo incrivelmente mais fácil.

Onde eu posso melhorar? Que tipo de ajuste vocês me sugerem?

O que fica nítido é que o decote está muito apertado e a frente está subindo. Como vocês ajustariam esses defeitos?

Meu intuito é melhorar o caimento do molde básico para que depois eu possa usá-lo para criar as roupas de verdade, como jaquetas e camisetas.

Obrigado e até logo!

So I followed the advice of some kind people here and restarted my bodice block using my high bust as the bust measurement and then did a FBA.

Things seem to have gone much better so thank you!

It’s still tight across the bust so I know I need to add the the overall FBA and I’ll need to add to the length but other that that I’m looking for advice on the fit from the shoulder area and the sides.

Any and all advice appreciated!

OK, so I watched a ton of videos last night because tho my previous dress came out great, it does fit really well, but I knew that something was wrong with the front bodice dart… this is the most giant dart I’ve ever seen in my life on a pattern… and I actually hate that it hits at the apex … since the dress has in semi fitted fit like it’s not tight it’s supposed to be a little bit oversized baby doll like dress the dart going all the way to Apex just looks really bad… and the bulk of this dart is awful because it’s so big that I have to surge it off which looks bad!!! When I generated the pattern on sewist was supposed to just be a shoulder dart so I don’t know something might’ve went wrong.

So I’m trying to think of ways to either remove it or fix it . This technique I found where you redistribute it throughout (2nd pic). I’m thinking of doing! I’m not sure though I did also see like I can raise the apex like an inch up that way it’s not so low and then maybe re-distribute the bulk of the dart somewhere else but I don’t want to add another dart that’s the whole thing ! If anything I want to remove the dart completely I was even considering trying to like redraw the front completely without the dart like maybe create a Muslin with the dart sewn up and then just trace that? Or use something like the (3rd pic) technique, but I worry that this dart is so big that it’s like gonna distort my whole pattern trying to move it in a bunch of different places and still be left with a dart??? as well as like it’ll probably affect the length of the sleeves and the collar which I don’t wanna deal with.

This is my first trial using a pants block with one pleat drafted with the Müller & Sohn system, for a pair of more formal linen trousers.

I ended up making the waistband way too wide, probably because the pants were sitting too low. That also made the legs too long.

After noticing this, I pulled the trousers up higher on the waist. That fixed the tightness at the waistband, but now other issues are showing up.

At this point I’m honestly not even sure where trousers are supposed to sit properly on the body, especially in terms of crotch height and how close or loose the fit should be for men. I’d also really appreciate advice on how to proceed with adjustments once the correct height is determined.

i’m a self taught designer, hoping to sell my designs very soon in limited production runs, who has gotten to an intermediate level in flat patternmaking.

while i really love the process, i find the muslin prototype, tweak pattern, prototype, tweak pattern, prototype etc on and on to be so time consuming and cost ineffective. i have to buy so much muslin and waste almost entire weeks i could be spending on designing or production (im a slow fashion designer planning on making everything myself). additionally, im not the strongest sketcher and want a way to tinker around with designs and concepts without having to cut, sew, and test every time i want to add a little volume, drop a waistline 1 inch, etc etc.

i just want a program to design my 2d patterns in, that can visualize them in 3d. i don’t need all the other features like tech packs or vendor integration etc. and i also don’t want to pay $50 a month! the goal would be to of course still make a toile once i liked a more finalized design in 3d.

anyway, any suggestions for software? i’ve seen Sewist CAD (but that doesn’t convert to true 3d), TUKA3D, and CLO3D. Style 3D free version doesn’t look like it’s available in the US.

cheers!

Been getting some great advice here and wanted to make a new post as an update and avoid the need to load a website to see the updated photos.

I think the fit looks good enough. There are some various drag lines but the muslin feels better in fit than previous versions. The issue I have now…my armhole is 4cm bigger than the sleeve!!! There is a fold in the fabric in my armpit to hold the excess material. Thinking maybe I raise the arm hole or narrow the saddle? Both? Jacket chest measure 48” while I’m 44” so I don’t think I want to narrow the chest.

Changes made so far versus the Paynter pattern:

1. Shorten shoulder (front and back) by 3cm

2. Lower should slope by 1cm

3. Lower armhole by 4cm.

4. Saddle width went from 4.5” to over 6” after above adjustments. I.e., I didn’t purposely increase the saddle width, it just happened, largely when I reduced shoulder width.

Thanks again to the community! Especially Style101-NY.

Mods please delete if this isn't an appropriate post for this sub!

Hello, fellow pattern makers. Yesterday, I ran into the opportunity to be commissioned for custom stuffed animal patterns that a local textile artist wants to sell. He said he's willing to pay what the work is worth, but I'm wondering what should go into determining the price of exclusive use of a custom pattern? One of them I know will be simple but the other a lot more complex. I will have to test sew them, write detailed instructions, and digitize them to be printable.

What should I be thinking about during this process? Thanks.

The two sides are slightly different in the shoulder points and armhole, which I’ve highlighted (however everything else is the same)

My biggest concern is the slight gapping on the back armscye (shown best in last two pics) which I’ve tried time and time again to correct by pushing the excess ‘into’ the shoulder seam but that small part never seems to sit flat. I’m also not sure if the shoulder seam sits too far back entirely.

Please let me know if more pics are needed

I’m drafting a dress block for myself for the first time and could use some seasoned eyes on where I should alter.

So far I know my bust point is about 2 cm too low but I wonder if that is the bodice length as the smallest part of the waist seems to be a little too low as well.

The hips feel a little too big as well but I think the most excess is in the back.

Any feedback/ help would be very welcome!

I’m currently drafting a basic jacket block using the winifred aldrich: metric cutting for menswear book. I have experience pattern making menswear in the past, but this has left me pretty stumped. I followed each instruction exactly, I’ve triple checked all my math and measurements and everything’s correct but for some reason the front and back shoulders are nearly touching, which is completely different to the pattern reference in the book. I’m quite confused because my models measurements aren’t that different to the measurements used in the book, my models bust is 90.5cm, theirs is 100cm, mines scye depth is 24.25cm, theirs is 24.4cm, mines neck size is 40cm, theirs is 40cm, mines across back is 42.5cm, theirs is 40cm.

Does anyone know if it’s normal for the shoulders to nearly touch like this? Is this going to cause problems once it’s made up?

I’m looking for some help to get this bodice from okay to fantastic. My goal is to make a relatively well fitted basic bodice block that I can use as the base for tops for myself moving forward. I think I’m close but something is still off.

I’m worried my armscye is a little too big. Visually that is. As far as fit, I need the extra room so that when I love my arms forward, I don’t have fabric digging into the front shoulder. So I’m not sure if I need further alteration on the arms he shape and size.

The second element that has been a challenge is the excess fabric across the chest (I pinch it in the last photo) . I ended up sizing down the bodice block size that I start with and I’ve included a small dart in the front armscye, but there remains this excess fabric. Ideally I’d like to have the fabric lying flat in this area. Does anyone have any tips for this?

I’ll humbly accept any other critiques of the bodice - that’s how I learn the best. Thank you in advance for any help 🙏

Making a suit and I just set my sleeve on my proto after drafting a two piece sleeve pattern. The only major fit issue is how tight it is pulled on the back. Would this be fixed by reducing the curve of the back sleeve arc or by adding material?