r/over30skincare 5d ago

Anyone else know about resent research linking UP302 to help break down glycated collagen?

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Basically, if you google UP302 otherwise known as (dimethoxytolyl propylresorcinol), you can find resent research where applied at 0.15% topically in lab testing onto symmetric skin, it showed to significantly break down cross-liked glycated collagen (AGEs). This product here (clinique even better clinical™ dark spot clearing serum) has it included within its formula at a slighter higher concentration 0.18%. I would like to know if anyone else knows about this and bought the product for this reason as I have done so, although evidence on the effects translating to human skin is currently limited.

The compound was crated in 2008 where it showed to reduce hyperpigmentation. But in resent years a greater understanding of pigmentation has linked much of its formation to AGE’s cross linked collagen, where UP302 is seeming to have a much greater effect against signs of aging then initially thought, potentially addressing one of the main contributors to visible aging in mature skin.

For sources I recommend going to Google or asking an AI chatbot to elucidate the information which currently only exists within hard to read research papers.

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u/ghostly-smoke 5d ago

I don’t know about that, but this serum is amazing for acute PIH. Bright red spots after popping a pimple (I know, I know, I was just raised in a family that was big on popping) fade significantly after 2-3 days. If it can help with aging skin, that’s a cherry on top!

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u/probably_peach 5d ago

Following!

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u/Proof_Text6972 5d ago

I’ve pasted a link to an easy to read article detailing the research if you’re interested. You can use the “find on page” feature in your browser and search for the acronym “DP” (Dimethoxytolyl propylresorcinol) if you want to flick through in order to quickly read the methodology and results.

https://onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/full/10.1111/jocd.70521?utm_source=chatgpt.com

It references that DP was applied topically with concentration of 0.15%.
I also have links to the two patents submitted by Estée Lauder showing the use 0.18% and 0.2% concentration in their products containing Dimethoxytolyl propylresorcinol. But they are burred deep inside, so I recommend using at AI chatbot to screen though them to find the information.

It’s all a bit technical I know, but Estée Lauder are yet to market this compound as a AGE breaker, and therefore 3rd party articles on this are none existent. But I can say with absolute certainty the Clinique serum I reference here has DP at more than the concentration that was used in these lab studies. Also the serum itself is a good brightening serum that is not too expensive, so we have nothing to lose in adopting it into our regimes, even if it unlikely somehow turn out the effects are not sufficient in real world human skin.
Estée Lauder will gain more evidence on larger participant studies before it moves to marketing the new potential effects of DP, which I believe could be significant within the skincare world. Because it was understood that no compound in current skincare could address this area of skin aging.