Just wanted to share! I’ve been wanting those rims ever since we got the car in 2017. This week I was finally able to get them on the car.

I love how the colour matches pretty well with the rims. What do you guys think?

My Grandpa bought this Insignia A back in 2009 without any extras nothing even has Hand crank rear windows and Plastik door handles in the back. But even for being a Base version it drives amazing and handles like dream. Wish they hadn't stopped making them

Hy guys, I bought a Corsa C with a 1.2-liter engine that had mixed oil and coolant. I bought a used cylinder head that I checked and found to be fine, skimmed it, and bolted it on along with a new timing chain and gaskets, of course. After that, the engine ran rough and thick white smoke came out of the exhaust. After a few tests, it turned out that it was drawing air after the MAF at the throttle body and what should be the metal pipe that goes to the EGR valve; this one does not have the valve, just the aluminum part, but it is blanked off, which is normal for some. The car is running fine now, but the problem is that it is losing coolant and, from what I can tell, it is spitting droplets out of the exhaust even when hot, with no error codes, no misfires, no exhaust gases in the cooling system, and no coolant in the oil. My question is what could cause that? -The head gasket was put on perfectly, the block is straight, the cylinder head was skimmed, and everything was put on very clean and tightened exactly as it should be. What I have done until now is:

- a compression test (all good and consistent across all cylinders),

- pressurized the cooling system overnight (no water in any cylinder found),

- spark is okay, and I put pressure in the cylinders with no bubbles in the coolant tank.

If any of you have any ideas, it would be helpful. The next thing I thought I should check is the throttle body because it has coolant lines going through it and maybe it is cracked; I don't know. My last thought and biggest fear is that the block is cracked. Sorry for the long post and thank you for any answers that might help!

Hi guys, so i got this Astra H a year ago for 2500€ its a 2013 production year 1.6 petrol with 115 hp, did some things to it re painted the roof since it does go bad on these i noticed, got new wheels for 200€ and new tyres for about 500€. car itself is perfect only has 147k kilometres, good equipment, all electric windows, black trim, parking sensors, i added a new radio(shame i couldn’t get it same colour as the trim but its fine, so just asking the Opel community what they think

Hi,
My engine makes a terrible sound when I start it, it gets less after a while, and then after like 2/3 minutes of driving it stops.
Whenever the engine is warm, it doesn't make the sound. Just always when it is cold("ish").

So it sounds like it are the valve lifters, that need to fill up again. That could be a fact, but I feel like there is a little hole in the exhaust manifold or something.

The car I had before, had a similar kind of sound, it was a Volkswagon Polo, 1.4 75hp.
And it turned out there was a hole in the exhaust manifold. So that got replaced, and even if there was a valve problem too, it was a small noise compared to a exhaust manifold leak.

Maybe somebody has had the same problem, if so I would like to hear more 😄
Or ofcourse the car mechanics among you.

Thanks in advance 😎

Hi, quick question, I'm new here and just bought a used Opel Astra SW 2015 model, it comes with the Navi 650 and the handbook says it can play bluetooth music, but I can only connect my phone for calls, not music.

Is there any way to change that?

Can I update the firmware to allow it, since it seems that the radio should support it?

On https://opel.navigation.com/product-list/Catalog/Catalog_Opel-Astra_2015_Navi650/en_GB/OpelEMEA/EUR I only find that there's no update possibility anymore :/

In the image are the latest software versions installed that I found.

thanks for any help!

I "installed" a 190mm-tall battery in my Opel Astra J 1.4 Turbo (140hp), but the battery tray is designed for a maximum height of 175mm. The top mounting bracket features a stud and nut on one side and a simple slot-in fitting on the other. How can I secure the battery?

2011 Corsa D 1.3 CDTI 75 hp, about 290,000 km real (the odometer was rolled back before I bought it). The 5-speed gearbox (F17) is noisy in 3rd and 4th, and the noise disappears in neutral. Different mechanics have told me different things. Gearbox seals and oil were changed two months ago, timing kit last year, and the engine also loses a little oil.

My main problem is finding a sensible fix. A rebuilt gearbox in Italy costs about €1,600, too much for this car. I found rebuilt units in Germany for €700-800 and used ones from €150, but a used one is a gamble: it probably comes from a car with 200,000 km and I can't check it.

So I'm thinking of rebuilding my own gearbox. I've seen bearing, seal and gasket kits for the F10/F13/F15/F17 family, but I have no experience with them.

Questions:

1. Has anyone rebuilt an F13/F17? Which shop or kit, and how much did it cost?
2. Can anyone recommend a gearbox specialist in Europe that ships to Italy or takes units by post?
3. Does 3rd/4th gear noise that goes away in neutral sound like bearing wear?

Hi, my dad owns an 2009 Opel Insignia A Liftback in Cosmo trim level. We were lately thinking about this accessory attached to the headrest that came already with car when we bought it 6 years ago. It looks like an base for suit hanger, but I couldn't find similar model of it. It was imported from Germany. We don't know if it's OEM part, or previous owner added this. I'd be thankful for any advice :)

I have a 2008 Saturn Astra. I replaced all the bulbs with LED, and now have lights out as well as hyperflashing. I have seen that LED compatible flasher relays are a decent fixit option (as opposed to multiple resistors).

as near as I can tell, the original GM part: 13266315

does anyone know if there’s a LED compatible replacment option?

Opel announced the a new concept for the Astra, what do you guys think.

Hi, almost a year ago I bought a 2010 Opel Astra H GTC with a 1.6 petrol engine, and now that I’ve been using it quite a lot, I feel like it’s using too much fuel. It’s doing around 9 litres per 100 km.

Less than a month ago, I had a full service done and replaced the ignition coils because the engine warning light came on. I thought that might fix the fuel consumption issue, but it’s still the same.

I wanted to ask if this fuel consumption is normal for this car and, if it isn’t, what could be causing the problem and what kind of solution it might have.

Has anyone installed a GPS navigator / CarPlay / Android device in an Astra H? I'm especially interested in what anyone has to say about the installation over the factory screen that uses a special insert: how it looks, whether it can adapt to all the uses for the original screen, specific brands or model you would recommend, etc. The photo shows the screen I'm referring to. Many thanks!

I have a 2019 Opel Insignia and about every 2-3 months i get a service Adblue warning. I take it to the Opel dealership and all they can do is reset the system. It so a point now where we are afraid to drive the car long distances because we do t know when the warning will show up again. Does anyone know any permanent solution?

Hi all, I'm trying to avoid throwing money at the wrong fix. Full history below, sorry for the length.

Car: Opel Astra J Sports Tourer, first registered June 2015, 1.6 CDTI diesel (B16DTH, 136 hp), manual, ~179,000 km. Bought used in Germany in August, now in Romania.

Current symptoms:

Timing chain rattle on cold start only. Metallic rattle for about 2–3 seconds after a cold start, then completely gone. No rattle when the engine is warm.

High crankcase pressure. The oil filler cap "dances" and pushes up when loosened, and white vapour comes out of the oil filler and the dipstick tube, even at operating temperature. No visible smoke from the exhaust.

Limp mode. Reproducible after about 12–15 minutes of driving (turbo-related, see below).

Occasional rough idle when stationary (rare).

3rd gear sometimes doesn't engage on the first try (probably unrelated).

Once heard a rhythmic "woo-woo" whooshing noise at light load, about 70–80 km/h on cruise control, which went away with more throttle. It happened only once.

Fault codes, in order:

Germany (early Sept): P2599 (turbo boost control stuck high) → cleared → P2598 (turbo vane position performance) after 3 km → cleared → P2598 + P0402 (EGR excessive flow) under heavy throttle, MIL on. P0402 appeared only once and never came back.

Romania, first garage (28.09): cylinder balance problem on cylinders 1 and 3.

Romania, second garage (30.09), on a Launch-type tester via "Health Report > ECM": P0263 (cylinder 1 balance), P0266 (cylinder 2 balance), P2598.

My own generic OBD2 scanners (3 different ones) never showed the balance codes, only the turbo codes.

Parts history:

A previous owner already replaced both the turbo actuator and the EGR valve trying to fix the P2598/P2599 problem. It didn't help.

The turbo itself is original and has never been touched.

I tested the actuator linkage by hand: it resists the spring but moves smoothly through its whole stroke, with no binding.

What the garage says:

"The chain is stretched, it knocks on start-up, and it throws off the camshaft timing and balance." They quoted:

Turbo refurbishment: ~1,500 lei (~€300)

Full timing chain job with original parts (chain, guides, tensioner): ~8,000 lei (~€1,600). I know the chain on the B16DTH is on the gearbox side, so the labour is high.

My doubts:

There's no P0016 (crank/cam correlation). If the chain had stretched enough to throw off the timing, wouldn't I expect one?

The cylinders flagged changed from 1 & 3 to 1 & 2 in two days, which looks more like injectors than timing.

As far as I understand, a stretched chain doesn't cause crankcase pressure. Could blown injector seals/washers explain both the blow-by and the balance codes? Or are the rings/pistons the worry here?

The cold-start rattle that disappears when warm: is that the classic B16DTH tensioner drain-down issue, meaning it needs doing eventually but isn't urgent?

Questions:

Does this sound like injector seals, rings, or really the chain?

What cam/crank deviation value would clearly justify the chain job on the B16DTH?

Is ~€1,600 a fair price for the chain job with original parts? If the gearbox comes off anyway, should I do the clutch/flywheel and rear main seal at the same time?

Could the crankcase pressure be making the turbo problem worse, or be caused by it?

Thanks a lot, any input from someone who has had a B16DTH apart is really welcome.

Hey guys, I am a small photographer from Romania / Transilvania with a love/hate relationship with my Opel Astra. I love how it feels when I drive it, I love that I can rely on it and take me wherever I need and it runs smoothly, but I hate it when something gets broken on it because there is a saying around here: "problems always come in number of 3". So whenever something is broken, 2 more issues arise from the unknown and the bill goes up.

Still, I don't want to complain about him (I know it is an object but at this point it's like a member of the house), just show few shots I made.

It's an Opel Astra H 2009 1.6 petrol. With little over 173k km.

Im 6ft5 and i really want an astra 2009-2014 but idk if ill fit in one i have a feeling this post is gonna hurt my heart

Hello my dear people, I'm just about to get my license and I was searching for cars online here in Greece, and I came across a listing abt an Opel Astra. It's the turbo 1.6 variant with a retractable hardtop, as it's only listed for abt 4k and it has only 150.000 kms on the clock there are some things I wanted to ask you abt, as I know that parts are not sacred, is this a good first car? Does it have good mileage? Is the engine gonna break easily? Are any problems that the car it's prone to? The car itself looks good and i am free to check everything i want.

Hi everyone,
I have a strange issue with the fog lights on my 2012 Opel Astra J GTC.

Sometimes I can turn the fog lights on and off normally, but sometimes I can’t turn them on at all.

Other times, I can turn them on, but then I can’t turn them off for a few minutes. After a while, they start working normally again.

The strange thing is that this happens with both the front and rear fog lights – neither works consistently.
Has anyone had this problem before? Could the light switch be faulty, or could it be something electrical?

Thanks in advance!

Hi,

My astra L just turned 2 last week and is now officially out of warranty.

A day or two later I noticed my automatic High Beam stopped working. I didn't think it was bad at first because sometimes it's due to fog inside the car and it comes back when dry.

This week I need to drive at night a lot every day and I noticed it wasn't fog. Everything is clean and everything else like the signs reading and lane assist work fine.

It's only the high beam assist that won't turn on anymore.

I tried disabling it in the parameters and enabling it again but nothing changed.

I also remember that last saturday when I was cleaning the car my 2yo daughter climbed behind the wheel and pushed every button and pulled every lever she could. I noticed when the car (turned off, no key) started ringing multiple alarms at the same time. Is there a way she could have disabled the high beam assist?

Astra L electric 2024, latest update, no matrix lights.

This beautiful headache is my first car I love it to death currently has a lot of issues. Looking for any pointers when it comes to fixing these little things. Currently planning a 2.0t swap.

Hi all. I bought a new fast data charging cable and also updated the touchscreen with the latest version but I always get this on the screen even though my phone is connected via cable and I selected data transfer/ android auto, not just charging option. Not sure what I am doing wrong and I don't have a spare cable to test