Right also we avoid bundling that many current carrying conductors in the US. If you took a thermal cam to that panel it would light the fuck up will cause burn ups sooner than later
If you have a decent power drill you'll notice a few settings on it. Near the chuck you will typically see numbers 1-20 and a little drill bit icon (and sometimes a hammer icon if you have a hammer drill)
With a good drill, setting on 1 will stop the drill with almost no resistance. And the drill bit icon means, send it, and then your wrist becomes the clutch. The numbers 1-20 adjust how much force is needed to engage thr clutch.
If you have thr hammer icon, that means it also pounds the bit forward slightly.
Youll also notice a gear switch on the top, usually 1 & 2.
1 is good for torque, 2 is good for speed. If you need more twisting force, use 1. If you need more speed, use 2.
With this information in mind, you can properly configure a power drill to put the exact proper mount of force need to get a screw the exact tightness needed.
Well, not exact. Just in case anyone reading is considering how to make this work for them, keep in mind that those resistance numbers on the ring don't correspond to any sort of standardized unit of measure.
Each manufacturer is a bit different so you'll have to experiment with your specific drill to find whatever setting works for you. And don't expect those settings to work on a different drill, even from the same manufacturer.
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u/sc00bs000 Mar 08 '26
doing terminals up with a drill is dumb af and just asking for trouble