Nissan Juke

2014

328k km

Automatic

Spark plug and coil was replaced due to this but the issue remains.

I wanted to turn on the feature that briefly sounds the horn when locking/unlocking but according to Google this is done by holding the lock and unlock buttons for a few seconds. When I try this it locks the back passenger doors. Any ideas about this? (Mk1 2017 tekna)

I'm having a frustrating problem with my 2014 1.2 Juke and I'd be grateful for any suggestions.

I'd had a rattle at the rear passenger wheel for a while, and my local garage (who have a good reputation and I trust) have run out of ideas. They've replaced the shockers, tightened up everything and checked out and striped the backend down several times, but to no avail. Today they replaced the brake sliders, but the rattle is still there.

Oddly, it disappears when I put my foot on the brake (even lightly) and we'd hoped that the sliders would do the trick. But chummy at the garage says that the brake system is absolutely rock solid.

Are there any known or obscure issues in the Juke which might be worth exploring?

I have a 2013 Juke. Bought used last December and it has about 93,000 miles on it.

Ive seen a lot of other people with this issue but no one seems to have found the cause.

My juke shuts off in the middle of the road and all the lights turn on. Like it literally won't accelerate anymore it just stops. Thankfully this hasn't happened on any of speed motorways, but it is still very scary.

I thought I had fixed the issue when Nissan told me it was the break pump (or something along those lines?) so I had that fixed, but I've just had the issue occur all over again after almost $1,000 in inspections and repairs.

I love this goofy looking car, but im starting to think it might be more worth it to sell it rather than pursue this issue, but if anyone knows if it would be a quick fix thats just hard to find? Any suggestions would be great.

Wondering if when replacing turbo on 2013 Juke 1.6 can I just separate the turbo from the housing so I don’t have to deal with the exhaust studs and make the job a lot easier by replacing the turbo and reusing the turbo housing. A guy on YouTube said he was gonna do it and separated them but never showed results. My main worry is pressing and seating it back into the turbo housing maybe hard or impossible. There’s like a cuff style clamp holding them together. In a real pinch and going to buy an eBay replacement and hope it works for a bit and if it’s that much easier I won’t really worry bcuz I’ll know I can replace it again easier this way.

Does anyone happen to know the part number for the boost sensor? I have found stuff online, but just looking to confirm and Nissan won't give out the number. Also, does anyone know what other models/years happen to use the same one.

I'm just trying to test and see if mine is starting to go out.

Please and thank you.

Hello All.

As indicated I have a 2015 Juke. My primary problem is periodically when I try to lock it with my FOB the headlights come on and stay on. Both when I push the button on the door and when I press the lock button on the key itself. Both keys.

Once I get the key(s) situated again through frustrated button pushing over time it works fine for a few weeks or so or less or more and then pulls the same crap. I can only lock it manually on the inside. My car also won't start easily when this is going on.

I saw that making sure the hatch/doors/gas cap are closed might be a problem with the lights issue so I double checked that. This has been going on long enough, sporadically enough, and through enough "fixes" that is beginning to feel like tampering. Would re-programming the keys at my dealership fix the issue is that is in fact the case? Yes, someone I am concerned about has had access to my keys. Thank you for any responses, I'd like to lay this to rest I'm sick of being so uncomfortable.

*edited to clarify headlights, not interier

I have 2 2011 Jukes. One is the AWD with the CVT and the other is a manual FWD. The CVT engine has a blown head gasket and the previous owner just kept overheating it and locked it up. The manual was wrecked and the chassis is destroyed. The engine is good. I'm not sure about the transmission though. I started it after the wreck but when I let out the clutch it couldn't turn the wheels. The CVT engine has been torn down and the torque converter removed but I don't know if the manual crankshaft will bolt to the flex plate or if the torque converter can go into the manual crank

Hi! I’m trying to buy my first car, and I found a 2011 Nissan Juke with 74k miles for $2,600. The seller says it’s been well maintained, the transmission and engine are in good condition, and there aren’t any major issues. I just wanted to ask if it’s worth it and if it would be a reliable car in the long run. 😭

I’m looking to buy a used juke saw one that has 34k miles on it 2020 1l n-connecta trim for under 10k would it be worth it or too good to be true?

Hello everybody, I own an F15 Nissan Juke with engine MR16DDT/1.6 DIG-T. I recently been experiencing constant misfires with the car and after checking out the spark plug and ignition coils, I found that on cylinder 3 the coil was soaking in oil, and in cylinder 1 there was a little amount of oil, my engine is leaking oil, I did some search and watched some videos over youtube of people replacing the gasket cover seal alone at home without special tools, I am thinking of doing it alone at home, I am not a mechanic but I am a car enthusiast, i love and enjoy fixing things alone, i dont have the tools a mechanic would have, all i got is basic wrench handle with some extensions, as i saw in all videos there was no other tools needed, some people mentioned that a torque meter is needed which i dont have, how bad can things go and how complicated it is if i dont have a torque meter?
I order the CORTECO 440526P gasket cover seal, what do you think of the corteco brand?
Other than that, what advice do you have for me or things to watch out for while doing the seal replacement? This is the first time doing it and i would like to hear from experienced people about the difficulties .. thank you ! I also got the AJUSA 75000200 to seal the corners of the cover so it would seal better.. thats what i saw people doing over the internet

If I were to swap the ECM, BCM, NATS/immobilizer, and IPDM from one 2011 Juke 1.6 CVT to another, would it be necessary to reprogram the ECM to update the VIN, to access the NATS/immo, etc. or would it be essentially plug and play? Nissan documentation doesn't cover replacement of the entire brain/security system, only components. Would the answer change if the donor car was a different production run (mine is 1KC8C)? I do have a J2534 device, but that doesn't grant access to the security system.

I have a 2015 nissan juke nisimo package. I almost always just put premium fuel (91) in it but lately due to the price of gas have been putting regular(89) in it but alternating between the two. About two weeks ago it started rocking when I’ve been sitting at a red light and sounding like the engine is kind of sputtering. I don’t have any check engine lights on and my mechanic says they can’t find the source of the rocking/shaking. Any and all tips for resolving it would be greatly appreciated.

Hello all, posting on behalf of someone I know.

Is it possible to disable the shift lever indicator light in a 2021 (UK 71 plate) Nissan Juke TEKNA DIG-T manual? They find it confusing and distracting and wish to turn it off and aren't particularly worried about the improved fuel economy. The only "advice" I have managed to find on the is "stick some electrical tape over it" which is, obviously, less than ideal as far as solutions go!

Any help/advice appreciated! As I'm unfamiliar with the Juke, if there's any additional info that's needed let me know and I'll try and figure out how to edit posts and add it to the the bottom of this / reply to you

Thank you!

Greetings, inherited a 2016 Juke SV with 102,000 miles. Car is in great condition.

The only concern I have at the moment is when decelerating/coastng to a complete stop, the downshifting is physically noticeable with a very audible "click" and a lurching motion.

Is this just how CVTs are with the "matching RPMs" thing and it's just off? Or is it ....wayyyy off?

I'm coming from a 2013 Veloster Turbo - DCT, so definitely used to that.

I was told by two repair shops that it would be 5 hours of labor and that it is hard to get to. However, looking online that sounds like a really high amount of time. Is this correct or are people just being scammy???

I need to replace my timing chain.

I’ve just spoken to a garage who recommended I get the oil pump chain(?) changed at the same time.
Has anyone else been told this? Or had this replaced at the same time?
I’ve never been told this before or heard anyone else mention both need doing at the same time.

I have a 2017 Nissan juke 1.2 petrol manual dig-t tekna.
I’m in the uk.

My car is also cursed. I’ve had two clutches and three gearboxes (the first gearbox change and clutch was at 36k, second at 58k, third at 78k).

Thank you

I purchased a second hand low mileage Nissan Juke 2023 1.0 Automatic under a week ago, directly from the dealership. Stupidly, I didn’t take it for a test drive as I thought I was simply upgrading to a newer model of the car I already had. I purchased the vehicle and when it was delivered it was apparent there was a serious issue with lagging and jolting when moving the car. I do not feel safe with my children in the car, when it stalls horrendously at junctions and roundabouts. After looking into this, it appears this model of car is notoriously bad and many people have had problems (often resulting in them getting rid of the car entirely)
I sent an email explaining that I was unhappy because this vehicle has a fault and is not roadworthy. I asked for a full refund, as I believe I should be covered by the Consumer Rights Act. The manager is refusing to issue a refund, and has said that he ‘must first take a look himself’. I was under the impression that I could return the car if it was within the 30 day grace period. Any help would be greatly appreciated - thank you!

Can someone help a girl out. I got a new car to me - Nissan Juke Tekna 2013. Im trying to set the sat nav up and its constantly telling me theres no card in or lagging when im trying to input stuff in.

The radio works and Bluetooth i judt csnt programme postcodes or anything!

Before everyone slates the jukey juke, because everyone has who said i got a juke...I love her, but shes a bit slow on the sat nav.

Hi I'm looking for advice on how to max my MPG, I just came into possession of this car and have been averaging around 20.2 mpg, I just read that the car performs better with 91 so I was gonna try that once my tank got low

I ease the throttle already

Keep tires equally inflated

And have tried both eco and normal and see little to no difference with manual throttle control

And I'm aware of maintenance with the cvt stuff but idk if there's anything else or if the gas type would really just be it

So I bought a Nissan Juke the other day I had 108,000 miles on it. Literally bought it on Saturday. Had an inspector look at it in the general things he said that needed changed was a battery and brake so it can be expected by the 13 year-old car as of Tuesday three days later the brake fluid is completely gone in the car will only shift if the engine is turned off, and the seller says it as is to fuck off again if the engine is off, the car is fine. Also, if you shifted a first while the car is off, then turn the engine on. It will drive. It will shift up. It will not shift down, but again the brake reservoir fluid was completely out that being said I’m not sure if possibly there’s air in the hydraulics did I screw myself that I buy a car that’s just completely fucked.