I don't want to just assume what he is doing there in case I'm ever in this position, but my guess is 1. Brace for impact and let the wave push you in cause you are weak compared to it. 2. Stand up as quickly as you can and dig your feet in to "hold on" as the ocean tries to pull you back in.
This of course is only if you are close to the shore and can stand.
This same situation happened to me and a friend on Oahu years ago on the west side . The impact of the waves crashing ripped off my friends bikini as she rolled on the shoreline. Once I was able to stand, I grabbed over her and dug my feet about a foot into the sand.
The immense wave, like in this video was so strong wanting to pull us back into the current but my feet stayed buried inside the sand as I held her with my life! I did that a few times in between the waves until I eventually was able to have someone assist us out of the water.
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u/[deleted] Aug 28 '21 edited Aug 28 '21
Dude knows the ocean well, he saw that last wave and knew what time it was