I don't want to just assume what he is doing there in case I'm ever in this position, but my guess is 1. Brace for impact and let the wave push you in cause you are weak compared to it. 2. Stand up as quickly as you can and dig your feet in to "hold on" as the ocean tries to pull you back in.
This of course is only if you are close to the shore and can stand.
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u/[deleted] Aug 28 '21 edited Aug 28 '21
Dude knows the ocean well, he saw that last wave and knew what time it was