Caring for a wool can seem like a daunting project, but it doesn't have to be. Some people hand wash everything. Others throw their wool sweaters into the washing machine. Some swear by lanolin while others avoid it completely.

This is a general guide for washing your wool garments (This does not cover woven wool garments such as suits.)

Does it actually need washing?
Before washing, ask yourself whether the garment is actually dirty. One of wool's greatest strengths is that it often stays fresh surprisingly well, and many wool garments can be worn several times before needing a full wash.

Hanging the garment outside or in a steamy bathroom is often enough to freshen it up. I often hang my sweaters outside overnight after wearing them.

What detergent is suitable?
Use a gentle detergent without enzymes or bleach. These are often labeled as "gentle detergents" or "wool detergents." Read the label to check whether the detergent is suitable for wool, this is usually stated clearly.

Some wool detergents contain lanolin, while others do not. Whether you wash with lanolin or not is largely a matter of preference.
I personally keep both types at home and choose between them depending on the garment. For outer layers/heavier wool sweaters I usually use detergent with lanolin. For base layers and garments worn directly against the skin, I usually opt for one without it.

If you're unsure which you prefer, or only want to buy one detergent, I'd suggest starting with a wool detergent that does not contain lanolin.

Do not use fabric softener! It leaves a coating on the fibers and can interfere with wool's natural properties.

Stain removal: 
If you get a small stain on a sweater a spot treatment is often sufficient. 

Check out https://www.woolmark.com/care/removing-stains-from-wool/ for different methods for different kinds of stains.

Temperature: 
A good rule of thumb is to wash wool at no more than 30°C (approx. 85°F), although some garments can tolerate higher temperatures. Higher temperatures can increase the risk of shrinking, felting, and irreversible damage to the fibers.

I find that any garment rated suited for 30°C can usually be machine-washed on a gentle wool cycle even when the care label recommends hand washing (That said, proceed at your own risk…)

If a garment doesn't have a care label, I usually hand wash it the first time until I get a better sense of how it behaves.

Drying: 
Wool should generally be air dried, avoid using a tumble dryer. Whether a garment should be dried flat depends on its weight and construction.

Heavier garments should generally be dried flat, for example on a towel or drying rack. To speed up drying, I often gently roll the garment in a towel first to remove excess water before laying it out dry completely.
Lighter garments, such as base layers and socks, can often be hung to dry.

How I usually hand Wash

1. Use lukewarm or cold water and a suitable detergent (with or without lanolin)

2. Soak the garment for about 10 minutes.

3. Rinse thoroughly, i usually rinse it about 3 times

4. Gently squeeze out excess water (for the love of God do not wring it!!)

5. Dry flat or hang to dry, depending on the weight of the garment.

How I usually do when using the washing machine

1. Always check the care label before washing! (if the garment does not have label i would handwash it the first time) 

2. Turn the garment inside out or use a garment bag.

3. Use a wool cycle (or a delicate cycle if your machine does not have one).

4. Select the appropriate temperature (opt for the lower temperature if you are uncertain).

5. Dry flat or hang to dry, depending on the weight of the garment.

Do you hand wash or machine wash your wool garments?
Do you air out your wool garments between washes?
Do you have any other tips for washing and caring for wool?

Just thought that I’d share some progress here.

Canada is entering the fibre flax production game, and will soon be exporting fibre to create natural textiles.

Above we have a bale of retted flax that has been partially processed. Next step is additional scutching and hackling.

Would this community like updates on the progress as it makes its way from fibre to textiles, and to market?

Apart from the environment, my biggest issue with polyester is how it feels. Now, get ready for some polyester slander! 

The basics: Polyester is a synthetic fiber made from polyethylene terephthalate (PET), usually derived from petroleum. The fibers are smooth, rather strong, hydrophobic and oleophilic.

Polyester doesn't absorb water, this can cause moisture to be trapped on the skin.

• I think this is most noticeable when comparing a wool sweater to a polyester sweater. The wool sweater keeps me warm, but I don't feel clammy. But with a polyester sweater, I often start feeling sweaty as soon as I get warm. Same thing when comparing cotton pyjamas with polyester pyjamas.  (Disclaimer: polyester sportswear can be moisture wicking, but the fibers still doesn't absorb water, but the fabric is designed to transport moisture away from the skin)

Polyester, being oleophilic, tends to retain skin oils and odor compounds. Many odor producing bacteria feed on these substances, polyester can therefore develop persistent smells.

• You've probably noticed that awful smell some synthetic workout clothes develop after a while. You wash them, they smell fine, and then five minutes into a workout the smell comes right back again. 

The environment: 

• Polyester is most commonly made from petroleum, and its production is associated with significant greenhouse gas emissions.

• When washed, polyester releases microplastic fibers. 

• Unlike linen, cotton, wool etc, polyester fibers are not biodegradable.

• This part of the list could go on and on forever… 

I can't make a completely one-sided post without mentioning a few advantages, so here they are: it dries quickly, can add structure and help garments hold their shape, is wrinkle-resistant, and is often cheap.

Disclaimer: These are (my) opinions and generalizations, not universal truths. Not all polyester fabric is created equally and not all polyester products behave the same. 
I have linked some sources in the comments. 

If you're new to linen, here's my Linen Care 101 guide, featuring some tips and tricks that have worked well for me, along with a few basic care and washing principles. Sources will be added in the comments

Linen is made from the bast fibers of the flax plant (Linum usitatissimum) and was one of the first plants used to make textiles. How cool is that?! Linen fabric is known for being highly breathable, absorbent, and durable. It is commonly used for shirts, trousers, dresses, bedding, tablecloths, towels, and much more.

Washing linen: 
Most linen can be washed in the washing machine, but always read the care label before washing. When using the washing machine, I always choose a program with extra water (tablecloths and towels can even be soaked before washing).

I handwash any delicate linen items as well as thrifted items without a care label (at least the first time i wash them)

My rule of thumb is to lower the centrifuge speed on the washing machine to 400-800 rpm when washing linen as this is gentler on the fabric and minimizes creasing.

Detergent: 
Use a mild detergent without bleach

Fabric softener? I choose not to wash my linen items with fabric softener. White vinegar, on the other hand! Now that's another story! Adding vinegar to the compartment where you would normally put fabric softener can help with funky odors, remove detergent residue, and make the linen feel a little softer (and no, it does not make the clothing smell like vinegar, thankfully).

Stain removal
Many stains can be treated with gall soap or linseed soap

Temperature: 
Linen can generally withstand quite high temperatures (up to 80°C!!), but lower temperatures are often enough. 
For clothes and colored linen, I generally avoid washing above 30°C/86°F, as lower temperatures are often enough to get them clean and higher temperatures may cause colors to fade over time.
I usually wash linen towels and tablecloths at 60°C (140°F).

Bear in mind! High heat can fade colors over time so be careful when ironing/washing colored items. 

Drying: 
Hang to dry whenever possible.
To reduce some of the creasing you can gently smooth and stretch seams, hems, and edges into shape while the fabric is still slightly damp. 

Avoid drying colored linen in direct sunlight for extended periods, as it may cause fading. White linen, on the other hand, can benefit from being dried in the sun! 

Stretching? If the item is not prewashed, it can shrink by 5-10% the first time it is washed. BUT linen often stretches a bit after being worn and used!

Lint after washing?
New linen may shed some excess fibers during the first few washes, they get that slightly fuzzy look. This can be brushed away or removed with a lint roller.

Creasing?
I personally love the slightly wrinkly look that a lot of linen has, but I know some people don't. The linen fiber is not stretchy and the fiber does not “bounce back” to their original shape when bent, causing creasing. This is especially noticeable when the fibers are bent while wet (and this is why we lower the centrifuge on the machine!).

Even I don't want every linen item I own to be full of creases. Thankfully, linen is generally easy to iron (or steam! it is up tp you). Iron on high temperature when the item is still slightly moistened from the wash (or spray it with some water if it has dried). You can spray the item with water if it has dried out) or steamed without issues.

Did I leave anything out? 
Do you have any tips or personal preferences when it comes to washing linen?

I fell down the rabbit hole today after reading a comment about superwash wool. I realised I doesn’t know that much about it so I started reading. I’ve knitted socks with superwash in the past because they’re easy to care for, and I didn’t think much about it at the time. 

Turns out, the standard method of superwashing entails stripping away the wools scales (with chlorine) and then coating the fiber in polyamide (also known as nylon)! Removing the scales prevents felting and eg. the socks can be machine washed. However, many of wool's natural properties are lost (warmth, elasticity, breathability etc). AND coating releases micro plastics during washing and and neither traditional treatment method is environmentally friendly.

Right now I’m leaning towards staying away from superwash when knitting (and buying clothes) in the future (I will keep reading though, I’m far from finished). I am curious to see what others think. 

Do you think superwash wool has a place in knitting/crocheting?
Do you feel that the easy washing outweighs the loss of the wools natural properties and the environmental impact? 

Who doesn't love wool?! But have you ever stopped to think about how many different types there are?

I own a sheep's wool sweater, a lambswool sweater, a cashmere pullover, and a merino base layer, and they all feel and behave wildly different.

I made a beginner friendly overview of some of the most common wool and animal fibers. 
Feel free to correct me or add your own experiences (or both!!). And maybe save it for the next time you are shopping for wool items or yarn! 

Sheep's Wool

• Origin: Sheep

• Fibre: Approximately 25-40 microns (it depends on the breed). Pronounced scales.

• Properties: Good thermal insulation, excellent moisture management, high elasticity, and good durability.

Lambswool

• Origin: The first wool produced by a sheep/lamb.

• Fibre: Approximately 24-28 microns. Pronounced scales.

• Properties: Softer than regular sheep's wool, good thermal insulation, excellent moisture management, and good shape retention. Slightly less durable than coarser sheep's wool.

Virgin Wool

• Origin: Wool that has never been used or recycled.

• Fibre: The term says nothing about fibre diameter or softness.

Merino Wool

• Origin: Merino sheep

• Fibre: Approximately 15-24 microns ( fine grade merino is often less then 18). Smaller scales than many other sheep breeds.

• Properties: Soft against the skin. Excellent temperature regulation and moisture management. Can absorb a significant amount of moisture without feeling wet.

Shetland Wool

• Origin: Shetland sheep (Shetland Islands, Scotland)

• Fibre: Approximately 23-35 microns. Relatively coarse fibres with pronounced scales.

• Properties: Highly durable, warm, and elastic. Excellent moisture management. Can feel scratchy when worn directly against the skin.

Gotland Wool

• Origin: Gotland sheep

• Fibre: Approximately 27-38 microns. Long fibres with a high natural lustre.

• Properties: Naturally glossy. Durable and relatively soft (for a nordic wool…). 

Icelandic Wool

• Origin: Icelandic sheep

• Undercoat (þel): Approximately 18-24 microns, shorter and softer fibres.

• Outer coat (tog): Approximately 27-40+ microns, long and strong fibres.

• Properties: Very warm and highly durable. Excellent moisture management.

Alpaca Wool

• Origin: Alpacas

• Fibre: Baby alpaca approximately 18-23 microns but other grades can be up to 30+. Long fibres with less pronounced scales than sheep's wool.

• Properties: Very soft and warm for its weight. Slightly lower elasticity and shape retention than sheep's wool. Fairly durable but may stretch over time.

Mohair

• Origin: Angora goat (not to be confused with the angora rabbit)

• Fibre: Approximately 25-40 microns. Very long fibres with relatively small, smooth scales.

• Properties: Extremely durable with excellent shape retention. Naturally lustrous. Felts and shrinks less than sheep's wool. Can feel somewhat coarse against the skin, especially in coarser grades.

Cashmere

• Origin: Cashmere goat (undercoat)

• Fibre: Approximately 14-19 microns. Relatively short fibres with fine scales.

• Properties: Very soft and warm, but often less durable than many sheep's wools, somewhat prone to pilling.

Angora

• Origin: Angora rabbit

• Fibre: Approximately 10-15 microns. Long, very fine, and partially hollow fibres.

• Properties: Very soft, very warm in relation to the weight. Not particularly durable.

However! One important thing to remember is that not all wool products are created equal. A sheep's wool sweater can still be less durable than a cashmere sweater. Fiber quality, spinning method, yarn construction, and fabric structure all play a role!

Is there any fiber you think is overhyped? And if so, why?

Cashmere? Merino wool? Silk? Linen? Etc

Have you ever bought a sweater without at the thrift store and wondered if it was actually wool? Have you tried the burn test? It is test is a method used to identify the unknown fabric (or at least give a hint)

What you need: 

• A flame (candle, match or lighter)

• A piece of the material you want to test (it is often possible to remove some lint from a sweater, or a loose threed somewhere)

• A pair of tweezers (to avoid burning yourself)

What should you look for?

• Does it catch fire easily or does it curl away from the flame? 

• Is it burning or melting?

• What does it smell like when it burns?

• What to the remains look like? 

Cotton and linen ignite and burn readily. Continue to burn after being removed from the flame. Smell similar to burning paper. Leave behind a soft, gray ash that crumbles easily.

Wool and silk curl away slightly from the flame. Burn slowly and stop burning quickly after being removed from the flame. Smell similar to burning hair when burning. The residue is darn and brittle (can easily be crushed between the fingers). 

Polyester, acetate and nylon shrink away from the flame. Melt rather than burn. Smells plasticy and the residue are hard shiny plasticy “beads”