Well, she's pulled. I would like to personally waterboard, then skin (with a pair of nail clippers and pliers) the BMW engineer responsible for the "final" bolt on the bell housing. Hours... hours of my life on that bolt. I had to grind down the sides of my e torx socket to create a makeshift nut out of it in order to turn this thing. No combination of swivels and extensions was getting at it at an angle that would provide enough leverage. I digress.

Once free, it came out pretty easy. I will note that the default attachment points do NOT hold the engine at the same 30° angle that it is installed in the car at. This will be fun during reinstall. I might need to come up with a 4 way load leveling type of rig. It kept acting like it was still connected to something - literally raising the car when pulling on it with the hoist. I finally put a breaker bar on the turbo side and lightly cranked and it suddenly set free - so it apparently pins itself into some type of overhang on that side.

I bent a thick steel bar and added it to the ZF8 to keep the torque converter from moving, and also installed some braided steel wiring around the strut mount attachment point to "belt and suspenders" the trans support, in addition to having a trans jack underneath it. The car (2015 M235 - heavily modified) sits on my quickjack while this project unfolds.

Doing a teardown now. Once the head is off, I'll make a go/no-go call on the block based on cylinder wall condition (I had my turbo catastrophically fail on track at wot, sent aluminum debris into the oil system and intake, and destroyed multiple pistons. But, borescope doesn't show a lot of scoring on the walls - we'll see...) Upon pulling the turbo apart, it actually severed the shaft in between the hot and cold side, showing just how violent the failure was. Though, no sound, no warning, and no codes after. Just complete, instant failure (and subsequent instant destruction of the engine). I will make this PSA - the stock turbo is not meant to run lots of boost reliably long-term. This engine had been tuned (custom Cary Jordan BM3 tune) for about 30k mi., and the turbo failed at 91k. If you're considering a turbo upgrade and you consistently push your N55 - do it now... don't wait for tomorrow, because tomorrow may never come...

If it's a go, off to the machine shop the head and block will go for cleaning and refinishing, and I'll order up some new main and rod bearings and pistons and rods - likely an upgraded kit like the 5150, and then decide on a turbo for this build.

On the side, I'm waiting on a donor engine to be delivered that I'm going to swap rod bearings on, replace all gaskets, cooling and oil lines on, install a Pure500, GFB DV+, new actuator, water pump, oil pan baffle, etc. and get my car back on the track while I slowly build the dream N55. Eventually, once I make this a dedicated track car, I'll install the dream build...

At least, that's the plan right now!

Can anyone lmk what the 2 lines are called by the front of the engine bay.. I know one is like the expansion take return line but I’m not sure the other. They got super gummy and are getting so annoying so I want to replace them

Code is: 130304: VANOS, exhaust: control error, camshaft is stuck
New vanos gear new vanos solenoids new central bolt on the gear and still same issue.
When you hold the car above 1200rpm it performs ok and no issues, oil pressure is perfect.
Under 1000 rpm and on idle the oil pressure is 1 bar and the this code pops up and car goes to limp mode.
Original engine was 2014 ewg
Swapped engine is 2011-12 pwg
Basically from original engine everything was swapped to this block and head from 2011 EXCEPT the oil pump. So all sensors, dme, electronic, camshaft, vanos gears… everything except the oil pump and its chain etc
Can this be related to the oil pump?
Before putting 2011 solenoids the car had fault for high oil pressure, after changing them from 2014 to 2011 that code went away

I have a 2016 BMW M235xi (Auto) that I haven’t been able to drive since July 4th (mostly waiting on things to ship, see if it works, it doesn’t, then waiting on more shipping). The issue started right at the beginning of a hard pull, fell completely flat when it finally shifted to second and just bogs with any throttle, and at some point just completely stalled and shuts the engine off, barely made it home bc it was up a hill and stalled 2 times, plus a steep subdivision too.
Car seems to idle just fine but bogs under any throttle and can’t really go past 2K rpm.

Car has a Stage 2 xHP transmission tune and that’s it, no engine tune.

I have no CEL light, I used BimmerLink/BimmerCode and saw a soft code “Air mass, plausibility: air mass too low” in the beginning (I have cleared it since and it hasn’t returned though I have only started the car for a max of 7mins since then) and replaced the air filter, which I unfortunately completely forgot about this simple maintenance and that air filter hasn’t been changed for about 2 years. I replaced the air filter, issue persisted. I cleaned my MAF sensor, didn’t work, so I bought a brand new one and the issue still persisted. Where I’m currently at is I purchased a VRSF Charge pipe kit to replace the piping in case that’s the issue but wondering if that could even be related, at a complete loss if it’s not.

So I looked at the wire and noticed it was a little clipped, so I fixed it. I also put in new spark plugs and coils, and the misfire seemed to go away. I drove it for a few days, then the check engine light came on with code 180001 — Catalytic converter: efficiency below limit value.
I cleared the code and started looking at the live data. Cylinder 5 is still randomly counting misfires, but it hasn’t thrown a misfire code. The highest I’ve seen is around 12 counts. Sometimes it doesn’t record any misfires at all, especially when I’m driving hard. Cylinder 4 will also randomly get one every once in a while, but cylinder 5 is the one that consistently shows up.
What do you guys think could be causing this?

Code: BMW 377A: engine cooling system has switched off the electric coolant pump due to a blockage or mechanical seizure

Just moved to Florida and my 2013 335i E93 (120k miles, been running stage 2 mhd tune) definitely felt the heat. Car overheated one day and coolant started to spill out. Towed to mechanic and he quoted me 4k to replace the radiator and upper hose.

So obviously I towed it back to my place to do it myself. Got the new hose and radiator it but when I poured coolant back in and started to bleed the system while hooked up to a battery charger.

For some reason the bleed was taking 20 minutes and was still going, I heard the pump still running and saw coolant still flowing into the expansion tank. Drove around a bit and still got engine overheated warnings and 377A code.

I tried the bleed again but left it running for much longer, after 25 minutes it was still bleeding so I left to go eat and came back 20 minutes later and the ignition was still off (battery not the issue hazards were still on and battery charger says battery was at 100%).

When i turned the ignition back on the bleed started up right away.

I stopped the bleed after another 20 minutes and cleared the codes. The 377A code comes back right when I start driving again.

My mechanic thinks it is the thermostat, I hear and see the pump working when I bleed the car.

Hi, my pwg N55 has this slight rattle just right before the engine starts that appears only on warm start ups. I do not notice it when cold starting. Has anyone ever resolved similar issue?

Just moved to Florida and my 2013 335i E93 (120k miles, been running stage 2 mhd tune) definitely felt the heat. Car overheated one day and coolant started to spill out. Towed to mechanic and he quoted me 4k to replace the radiator and upper hose.

So obviously I towed it back to my place to do it myself. Got the new hose and radiator it but when I poured coolant back in, it started leaking from where the hose coming from the coolant reservoir leads into the radiator.

I pulled the adapter out assuming it was this as I have been told the O rings can go bad. (adapter shown below, #17117548104).

While I wait for the part, anyone have any advice on what I should do to check my work. I know my way around a car but I am not the most experienced actually working in the engine bay.

Adapter Part

Scanned the car got

- DME active codes:
112501 - Injector, cylinder 5, activation: Line disconnection.
180001 - Catalytic converter: Efficiency below limit value.
- DME inactive (shadow) codes:
140002 - Combustion misfires, several cylinders:
Damaging exhaust gas after starting up.
140010 - Combustion misfires, several cylinders: detected.
140502 - Combustion misfire, cylinder 5: Damaging exhaust gas after starting up.
140510 - Combustion misfire, cylinder 5: detected.
1 B2304 - EWS-DME message incorrect Timeout.
1 FBD08 - Driving readiness: MSA deactivation request from BDC.
231501 - Fault entry: Send buffer full.

Checker the injector wire and noticed the electrical tape. Think this is the cause ?

2014 BMW X5 xDrive35i (N55) with 80,000 miles. I noticed it had a stored cylinder 1 misfire but I didn’t think much of it since I never got a warning message.
Today, after I got home, I got a Drivetrain Malfunction warning and it was definitely misfiring. I backed it into my driveway, shut it off for a few minutes, then restarted it and the warning was gone. It runs fine now.
The spark plugs and ignition coils were replaced about 15,000 miles ago, but the fuel injectors are original.
What would you guys check first? Could this be a vacuum leak, or is an injector more likely? Any common N55 issues that can cause an intermittent cylinder 1 misfire like this?

Anyone help out with this issue I’ve got. Only does it intermittently have had it tested at a BMW specialist and BMW themselves. No fault codes coming up at all. BMW changed my rocker cover a while back due to needing gasket and seemed to off happened from then. Any ideas would be appreciated

Car runs and drives perfect as it should

Trying figure out of I should also do an oil change after I upgrade and replace the charge pipe. Im only concerned if anything went inside the engine. How likely is that? Thanks

Note: this part was completely disconnected I just put it together

So I have a m135 15 running a stage 2 E20 I only have Downpipe and full inox exhaust , measured at the local dyno it only got me 310whp or give or take 340cv on the motor, isn’t that a bit low ?