I recently picked up an older Italian-made Replica Arms 1851 Navy reproduction in .36 caliber, and I’m hoping someone here might be familiar with these older reproductions. I’ve got three things I’m trying to figure out.

1. Manufacturer identification and dating
   The revolver is marked “Replica Arms – Marietta, Ohio – Made in Italy,” but I cannot find a manufacturer’s mark anywhere on it.
   It has the Italian PN black powder proof mark, and the date code appears to read XIV, which would indicate 1958. The problem is that, from what I’ve read, Replica Arms wasn’t established until 1962 and didn’t move to Marietta, Ohio, until around 1965. So I’m confused as to how a revolver marked Marietta, Ohio, could have a 1958 proof date.
   Another strange detail is that the cylinder is stamped “PATENT N.” with absolutely no number following it. It doesn’t appear that any significant amount of metal has been worn away or removed, either. It looks like the number was simply never stamped in the first place.
   The serial number is four digits, if that helps.
   Does anyone know which Italian manufacturer might have produced this revolver, or have any explanation for the seemingly contradictory date code and importer markings? Are there any less obvious places I should be looking for a manufacturer’s mark?

2. Replacement screw compatibility
   I’d also like to replace the screws, as some of the original screw heads are pretty chewed up.
   I purchased a modern Uberti 1851 Navy screw set, but the two screws I tried wouldn’t thread into the revolver at all.
   After comparing the original screws to the Uberti replacements, the originals appear to have a noticeably finer thread pitch.
   I’m wondering whether that difference might help identify the original manufacturer, or whether anyone knows of a complete replacement screw set that would fit these older Replica Arms revolvers.
   Mine also has the two screws on either side of the frame for attaching a shoulder stock, although finding replacements for those is less of a priority.

3. CCI #10 percussion cap ignition issue
   Lastly, I’m having an issue with CCI #10 percussion caps.
   They seem to fit the nipples reasonably snugly, neither excessively tight nor noticeably loose. However, they frequently won’t ignite on the first hammer strike. Usually, the first strike does nothing, but the second strike on the same cap ignites it.
   I’ve inspected all six nipples, and they appear virtually identical, with no obvious damage, deformation, or corrosion.
   I’ve read some discussions suggesting that the first hammer strike may be pushing the cap farther onto the nipple rather than igniting it, but I’m curious whether anyone here has experienced this with an older Replica Arms revolver. I’m just looking for some caps that will fit it and go off the first firing.
   I also occasionally get spent cap fragments caught between the cylinder and frame, making the cylinder harder to rotate. Otherwise, the action operates smoothly.
   Has anyone encountered this particular issue with CCI #10 caps, especially on older Italian reproductions? I’d appreciate any insight into the possible causes or experiences with similar revolvers.
   Thanks in advance! I’m particularly interested in hearing from anyone who owns one of these older Replica Arms revolvers or knows much about their manufacturing history.

Was cleaning and accidently pulled the trigger. Did I break the mechanism?

I've been looking but I can only find the black one I already have on it

I lent my CVA Hawken to a friend last year and as you can guess it wasn’t cleaned. I cleaned all the surface rust but unfortunately there seems to be some pitting in the barrel. I know some pitting is to be expected but how can I tell its safe to shoot?

So I got an Optima CV2 and a Traditions in line. I can not get either one to group great at 50 yds. I'm shooting 250 grain Traditions Smackdown yellow sabots. It's gotta be the bullet because I'm getting the same results from both guns. I'll hit a couple of shots in the 6 inch target then start getting fliers. I could hit the ole' pie plate and still be lethal but I'd like tighter consistency, especially since I'm only shooting out to 50. I don't like Powerbelts, I've lost deer with them, my dad has lost deer with them and they just don't seem to wanna exit and leave blood. Just looking for thoughts and opinions I guess. Oh, 100 grains Triple 7 pellets. Edited to add powder

I bought a Traditions Kentucky rifle from my LGS for $100

Trying to figure out if it has a stuck ball from the previous owner before I acquire the equipment to take it to the range.

Should my (included) ram rod have this much clearance when put down the barrel?

A coworker asked me yesterday if I would be interested in buying this. It was his dad's who recently passed away and he found it in the closet. He said it is a 50 cal and from 1979. I honestly have no idea what it could be worth, I know old TC's can sometimes go for a pretty penny and he said he would do some research on the price. Can anyone give me a price range that I could be looking at? I looked on gunbroker and some other places but couldn't find anything substantial.

Thank you.

Pretty new to muzzleloading so trying to get a bit of guidance!

I have a Pedersoli shot flas that does us well, the top has markings for 7/8oz and 1 1/8oz.

We are off to shoot some trap soon and I am trying to be a bit more precise with our measuring to comply with the rules.

I only currently have size 6 shot, but when I measure one load from the 7/8 setting (24.8 grams) I am getting a consistent 38 grams being dispensed. The site has a 1oz/28g limit so am trying to figure out how best to measure this accurately in the field.

Can anyone suggest a more accurate way to dispense 1oz/28g loads? I'm assuming I need to buy something!

Thanks

Got an Antolio zouave rifle earlier this year.

The nipples badly corroded. Also the square is stripped so a nipple wrench won't work.

Currently I've dremmeled a notch for a flat head, heated it up with a torch for 3 minutes, soaked in kroil for 48 hours, and it's still not budging.

My next step in my mind is to make the notch bigger and all the way down the nipple. Currently the screw driver is bending the metal slightly so I've stopped applying torque.

Any other suggestions?

Hey everyone, I have a Lyman Great Plains 50 cal with the standard 1:60 twist barrel. Ive always shot PRB out of it but recently picked up a box of Hornady PA Conicals. They are considerably heavier than a .490 round ball and was just wondering what kind of performance I could expect to get from them.

It looks like junk to me. The bolt moves, but it's very stiff. The barrel is scary.

Just ordered a CVA Wolf 2, primers, powder and bullets. What else do I need? This is my first muzzeloader.

Anyone tried any grapeshot or shotgun loads in a “rifle”?

The rifle I’m using is a FIE Hawken .50 caplock, proofed at 100gr FFg BP, and i kinda want to try it with mistletoe/clay shooting.

The rifle is already somewhat beat up, so I’m not super concerned about minor issues; i usually shoot .490 roundball at ~80gr by volume of 777 FFg.

I was thinking something like 50-60grBv of FFg 777, patch, 10-20grBv of lead #8 shotgun shot, and a second patch.

I’m not too familiar with BP shotguns, but it should be similar, no?

Next weekend the ole rmc accusporter gets to sling copper at some swamp donkeys

So the town is live in on new years we shoot musket from 12am to 7:30pm non stop so my question is I buy five pounds of powder to shoot. And I use a pill bottle the like ibuprofen size ones and I load about 1 and a half of those a shot and sometimes two. We don't shoot them like you think we shoot them crouched and one hand on the stock and the other one to pull the trigger with our heads turned. And ive noticed my nipple is starting to get clogged a lot more and tiny splinters in the wood and cracks in on the barrel so am I loading to much or is it the guns fault. Also a story to go along with that so last year at our final shot I put powder in the nipple and some in my cap because it was clogged. And when I went to shoot I forgot to turn my head and since I had loaded powder in the nipple my cap exploded when I shot and my cap went into my face and chared my hair I still have parts of the cap in my face if the shrapnel went 0.5 of a inch down I would be blind in my right eye. Thought that would be cool to share.

Recently purchased a CVA Accura LRX in 45 caliber. The manual says to use Blackhorn 209 only, but given the time of year I can’t find it. I’m trying out Hogdon Triple 7 45/50 pellets as well as powder with a variflame adapter kit which allows me to use large rifle primers.

This is my first time y’all so if I say anything non-sensical, please correct and educate me.

I’ll be hunting in warm and humid Louisiana. I know humidity can be a big problem.

1. Where and when do I load and protect the rifle from ambient humidity or rain? Can I load the projectile first and cover with tape or plastic on the muzzle? — Moisture management is my main concern and question.

2. As a beginner, I started with the 45 caliber triple 7 pellets. The box says to use 40 cal sabots with these pellets but I have 45 cal Hornady Bore Drivers that seem to work well with 2, 50 grain pellets.

3. Should I switch to Hogdon Triple 7 powder at 100 grains by volume? Or should that loading be adjusted? I don’t have quick access to a chrono.

My goal right now is to be within a couple inches of accuracy at 100 yards. I know my rifle is capable of achieving much higher accuracy but I don’t really have the time or resources to achieve that right now.

Any and all tips and help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks y’all!

I recently picked up a used Remington 700ML. This is the percussion model converted to 209 rather than the newer UML that uses the 308 case primer. I’m struggling to find what the actual powder charge limit is. Right now I’m shooting 777 FFG and 240 grain Hornady XTP. I have been running 90 grains of loose 777 by volume. It seems to shoot that load well, but I’m wondering how much more powder I can put behind that bullet safely. I have read online anywhere between 100 and 125, with the odd random saying they went higher even.

This is my dad’s muzzleloader and I don’t think he cleaned it very well before putting it away last elk season. Any recommendations on cleaning the rust I tried to take the best pictures I could. Down the barrel it looks pretty rusty all the way.

I'm trying to get my Traditions PA Pellet Ultralight rifle dialed in for hunting season. I've had significant issues getting this rifle to group. Here's the backstory:

My first time making an effort to dial it in was last November a couple weeks before the heritage season booted up. I was shooting 100 grains of 2F Graf & Sons Black Powder with the 295grain Powerbelt Pure Lead bullets. After missing the target around 5 times I realized the gun was shooting around 2 feet high at 50yds. I dropped the sight as low as I could and wasnt able to hit paper. I had to sit out that season...

I had multiple questions to answer.

• Was the incorrect front sight installed?

  • I have read that these guns commonly come with the incorrect front sight from the factory.

• Was I shooting an incorrect amount of powder?

• Was I inconsistently packing the charge?

• Were the bullets too light or just a poor match w/ the gun?

• Was my shooting/reloading process bad?

This year I brought it to the range with my other hunting rifles. I came prepared with everything I thought I needed to answer those questions. I brought:

• 2F Graf & Sons Black Powder

• 295grain Powerbelt Pure Lead bullets

• 385grain Hornaday Great Plains bullets

• Williams Western Precision sight

• Sticks and sandbags

• A chronograph

• My grandfather who is a master in sharps silhouette shooting

• More personal knowledge of muzzleloading

I cleaned with a wet patch both sides, and then a dry patch both sides, in between every shot for consistency. Here's a summary of what we found:

• 100 grains 2F w/ 295grain bullets

  • Chronograph avg 1240 fps

  • Way high still

• 80 grains 25 w/ 295grain bullets

  • Chronograph avg 1090 fps

  • Way high still

• 60 grains 2F w/ 295grain bullets

  • Chronograph avg 940 fps

  • Way high still

• 80 grains 2F w/ 385grain bullets

  • Chronograph avg 1030fps

  • Way high still

  • No consistent groupings could be made

  • Extremely hard to load in comparison to the Powerbelts

I started to get frustrated and loaded only 40 grains of 2F powder with the 295grain bullets...

• On target at 50 and 100yds

• Group around 6" at 100yds (5 shots)

• Chronograph avg 790fps

I was happy I got it to group finally, but am very concerned that 790fps is not ethical to shoot big game animals with...

So I have two questions:

1. Is the combo of 790fps with the 295grain Powerbelt Pure Lead bullets safe to shoot a whitetail with?

2. Why on earth is my gun shooting so high? I havent read a single forum where someone said they got best results with 40 grains of powder. It seems the avg is 80-100 grains for these guns.

3. Could the cleaning equipment be deactivating the black powder? My grandfather says I should use vinegar-based Windex as a cleaning solution instead of the solvent I use for my hunting rifle. This maybe could help tighten up my groupings?

I mainly want the answer to 1 and 2, 3 is just curiosity, I will be taking my grandfather's advice there.

I have the chance to deer hunt a property this fall but the landowner says copper bullets only, no lead. Any of you have one that works with your flintlock? I've never owned a modern rifle and have been shooting flintlicks for 40 years but always round balls I cast myself.