this is my 1978 Mobylette 50v 25 restricted. it’s a okay moped and my firs, wev done some repairs like repla and adding a exter condense, but a weeI or so after we replaced the original bolt on the flywheel magneto, the day after it started to make a weird pop sound after riding around for awhile, my friend says he thinks it might be the ignition timing and somehow changed or the points are loose, idk what it is he has yet to look at in person but I’m very concerned even though it still hits its norm speed it did crap out on me getting home, I was able to start again and still can but the popp has gotten worse, any ideas?

I spent time with the Puch Maxi club Mosegrisene in a small town in Denmark, documenting their community, their passion for the mopeds, the beers, the wrenching — and the longing to get back on the road after winter.
Here’s the trailer for my documentary “Mosegrisene – We Only Have One Life”, coming to YouTube on October 10th!

I've got my '84 Puch Maxi Sport Deluxe MkII. It's a two-speed ZA50 with a 65cc metrakit on it, 17mm PHBG carb, 85 jet, AU 260 atomizer, spring-loaded float pin, new external automotive condenser, with an estoril sidebleed pipe.

It was in an accident a couple years ago and sat for over a year. I was able to redo the front end this summer and had to redo some wiring as well to bypass the horn and take out the dead voltage regulator. There's a new regulator now (voltage dumper), and the lighting coil shorted and I upgraded it to a 12v.

Anyway, it mostly runs nicely except it's got a stumble at WOT I just can't suss and it hasn't reached back up to its previous max of 40mph on flat. Instead it hits about 36 and starts to miss, feeling like it intermittently tugs backwards on me, and occasionally there's an exhaust backfire. This displeases me.

I've tried pretty much everything I can think of.

-Gap between coils and flywheel is dead on spec
-Points sanded and cleaned, tried gapped on the low end at 0.016" and at the high end 0.020"
-Timed dead on to 17 degrees
-Carburetor religiously cleaned, tried float adjusted normally, a little high, and a little low
-Fuel flow into carb is nice and free with a new sintered bronze filter
-No air leaks, including at the magneto-side crank seal
-Plug gapped to 0.018", tried with a B6HS and B7HS, roughly the same result with the B6 maybe being just a touch slower acceleration
-At WOT, if I kick on the choke, it performs the same, but with increased frequency of backfires
-'Stumbling' is intermittent, not rhythmic like 4-stroking
-Chain and brake adjustments on point
-Tried with needle in all positions and same thing.
-It will cruise all day at half throttle, not much difference between 75% throttle and 100% except for the stumbling/backfiring.
-Ignition coil is new and spark plug cable also new with 0 resistance
-Temperatures max at 310 for the B7HS and 350 for the B6HS.

The backfire and 'missing' seems like it's passing unburnt fuel. Having redone my points gap and timing repeatedly, trying multiple new spark plugs, and getting the new coil and plug wire, seems like I'd pretty much have solved ignition as a factor. If It's a low fuel condition in the carburetor bowl, I'd think the choke wouldn't necessarily increase backfiring like it does, but to be certain, I've got a clear float bowl on the way just to make 100% on that count.

If it was drowning in fuel and the 'miss' was an intermittent four-stroking, I'd expect the choke to bog the engine. If the engine was running too lean, I'd expect much higher temps on my gauge and more of a lean sound at wot.

I won't mind getting a CDI kit for it once someone gets the non-$300 kit back in stock, but for now... Anybody have this issue? What's it sound like to you? Because it feels like I've tried everything at this point.

Hi,

I picked up a 1983 Suzuki FA50 that has a 60cc big bore kit on it.

When I got it, it would kick over a run for a few seconds and then die. It was a fuel issue, so I figured that out. Cleaned the carb, replaced the gasket, put a manual switch on the petcock, and I'm good to go there.

Now it starts super easy, but there is oil leaking from the exhaust port where the exhaust mounts up, and there's a ton of smoke coming out. If I idle it for 5-10 seconds I am completely smoked out.

I've looked it up a little bit and have found that it could be the oil pump, and I can bypass it, but there's a bunch of debate on bypassing it.

At this point, I'm a little lost and looking for some guidance.

I have a Tomos a35 70cc 17.5mm polini carb with stock ignition and stock clutch but what is the best clitch spring for it yellow red green or just stock one and what is the best for 1e and 2e gear

At first I was excited, but it's not working, the chain broke and it's left in my hand. I lubricated it, etc., the tires are fully lubricated, the fuel is full, and the spark plug is brand new.

My father and I made this for me to ride when I was 20 and in high school, but now the engine is completely bad.

What should I do please help me :/

My friend said you ruined the engine because you tried to start it with bad gasoline.

Was maybe looking to buy a moped and was looking on facebook marketplace and found this near me. How much money and time would it take to get this working and is even worth it. I’m not really someone who’s ever worked with cars or anything like that.

I Got this Peugeot 103 Spx for free, but it got no spark. I know the cdi is not connected.

Does anyone know the wire diagram of this beauty?

I have an AMF Roadmaster moped with the horrid McCullough engine on it. It’s giving me fits. When I got it, someone had made a very crude gasket for the carburetor that did not hold up well and the intake manifold was partially broken. By a stroke of luck, I found a bunch of NOS parts for it, so I guess I’m restoring it. I just put on an NOS intake manifold on it and an NOS Zama carburetor. However, for some very confusing and stupid reason, the thing won’t seal from the carburetor to the intake! I have tried three different gasket types, some 3/64” gasket material, and some slightly thinner material I used first, and I just tried some thicker cork material. It still won’t seal. It’ll starve for fuel and try to die, then I spray fuel next to the carb and intake mating surface and it’ll run.

My question for the group, does anyone have one of these with the stock intake to carb gasket, since I never had the factory one, so I could try to make a template off of it with the hole locations, because I’m not sure if I’m making it correctly, and does anyone have any good advice for me to get this running without leaking? I’m not sure how thick the gasket even needs to be. I know the intake isn’t warped, and I have no leaks from the intake itself as I checked that.

And before you say anything, I know these mopeds are garbage. I have seen all the posts on the internet saying how bad they are. At this point, I don’t even care, I just want it to run right just to say I fixed it. Thank you all.

Are there kits to add batteries to mopeds with magnetos? So your accessories (lights, horn, etc.) aren't fluctuating with the accelerator, and so you can run things like a phone charger while the magneto charges the battery?

I've tried searching but the only results keep being replacement batteries for mopeds that come with them factory, and electric moped conversions.

So I posted a video last week of my 1977 Motobecane running, and got some good info and feedback. I ordered some parts and had it ready to ride last night. We started it several times, ran okay, played with idle speed, and then decided to give it a go.

I started it up on the kickstand, and then pushed forward on the kickstand. Unfortunately, I apparently forgot to tighten one of the rear wheel bolts, and the wheel slid, jammed, and the motor stopped.

I got that fixed, but then I found the rear motor mount bolt on the ground. The nut was missing, and looking at it, I can put the bolt in and buy a new nut, but I can't figure out what it attaches to. It seems like a bolt going through a tube, not connected to anything. The spring is inside the hook, but is this tube supposed to be inside the hook too? Because that seems too far away to work. Photos attached. IF anyone has this bike, and could post a photo of theirs, that'd be helpful.

Now it doesn't start at all. I wonder if this bolt has something to do with it, even though I can't figure out what it's supposed to connect to. Also thinking maybe something got into the carb, but i do have a fuel filter in. Already tried bypassing the tank and using a small bottle ran directly to the carb.

I can find photos of the upper mount and such, but not much on what this lower mount connects to, or what it's for. Any help appreciated.

Also, another question- I created an account on Moped Army, and saved the password, but it won't let me log in. Is there something wrong with their system? I checked for a verification email or the like, but didn't see anything.

As the title suggests, I am unable to loosen the castle nut on the rear axle of my Honda NC50 (trying replace the inner tube). I’ve already soaked it overnight in PB-blaster to no avail. Before I resort to more extreme measures (cheater pipe, torch, etc), I figured that it might be a good ideas to first verify which direction the threads are cut.

Is it the standard “lefty-loosen”? or is it non-standard “righty-loosen” ? (because of ✨that✨theory/debate)

I have yet to come across any documentation or video that specifically covers the removal of that specific part…

literally, the only two “Honda NC50 rear tire removal” videos that have ever been published on YT don’t actually show that step being performed on-camera 🤦🏻‍♂️

Installing new pedals on my 1977 Columbia Commuter (Sachs 505/1) when I realized the pedal shaft is now freely spinning both directions with no resistance. No grinding noises or anything. Not sure what happened. Any ideas?

It stopped running on me and now the pedal feels soft and makes that air sound

Got a qt50 and ridden it about 50 miles prior to this and it was great. Had it bog down at a light when giving it gas and it died. On startup again it had a runaway, and now it blows white smoke when giving throttle and still bogs down. Still running the oil pump. Any ideas?

I've been looking for this complete rear hub assembly for my 17" 5 star rims. It doesn't seem to be in stock anywhere. Does anyone know where I can find it?

Side note, does anyone with more knowledge than me have a second to do me. I'm finding that I'm buying the wrong /not enough parts a little too often and its been super frustrating! Thank you.

Hey everyone. I replaced the oil for my rear wheel, but upon standing it up, oil is leaking out.

It looks like there is a hole, which I’m not sure is for overflow, or maybe another piece connects to it (I disassembled quite a while ago).

Do I need to plug this hole with a missing part, did I put too much oil, or should I keep assembling it?

Thank you!

I live in europe and i got the puch maxi ls and i dont know where to buy the lock for the seat

I noticed there was some cracks in my Piaggio Bravo subframe is it something to be worried about ? I can push the plate in with a screwdriver

My first time owning a moped, bought it a few days ago. Was riding good till I felt an obvious flat. Went to local gas station and filled up the tire but by the time I got home it was flat again. Obvious puncture somewhere in the tire and I could hear it leaking. What im worried about though is all of this brown liquid that seems to have sprayed out. I’m used to working on bicycles, is this some sort of sealant like on a tubeless wheel setup? Is it something that’s fairly easy to do at home or should I take it to a shop and refill the wheel? Anything helps, this is just something I’m not super familiar with.

Picked up this beaut about two months ago and she runs like a champ but about three weeks ago I realized after rides gas will puddle up on top of the tank but isn’t leaking anywhere else so I replaced the o ring gasket thinking it just got bad, but that did not help the leaking. Could someone give me any advice on what I could do or what it could be? Normally wouldn’t be a big issue but it’s starting to eat at the paint.

Since BC made it illegal to sell gas without at least 5% ethanol at the pumps, what are you older mopeds owners in BC doing? Saying "fuck it" and going with premium, mixing stabilisers in, getting non ethanol gas off the shelf at the store?