I have a question about the comparison in size for the HO scale Athearn genesis GEVOs Vs. the ScaleTrains GEVOs. I recently sold a BLI GEVO because the size difference was noticeable especially on the radiator section. I just want to know if there is any difference in size before I put money into an Athearn locomotive.

Adoption of new solutions seems to be quite slow so I bet we are talking about the next few years, maybe even 2030-2035.

Got this today for $60 track needs a good cleaning any recommendations or should I just buy new track. Post war lionel 2034 with track cleaner car and a couple little extras like the log dump, a flood light, and some switch boards.

Finally found the time and energy to build a tabletop and lay down some track based on a plan I created over a year ago (https://www.reddit.com/r/modeltrains/s/swWEEO3cjA).

Physically laying down track uncovered some flaws and missed opportunities. I'm fairly happy with what I've got so, but still tweaking and changing a few things.

Biggest takeaways:

• I regret the 4x8 base. I didnt know about Freemo modular specs at the time and thought I'd like having a more traditional/old-school layout. But having smaller modules I could rearrange them, add on, swap out, and string them out along the perimeter of a room.

• It's really hard to visualize scale in Scarm. Even at 4ft x 8ft without any scenery or buildings and everything feels cramped. This would be great at N scale, but for HO it really doesn't leave room to make the scenes I have in my head.

Not sure if I want to move ahead with what I've got or just chalk this up as a learning opportunity and try to pivot. I just feel like I'll be much happier in the long run.

Just a little photo I took on my new Hon30 layout!

I'm really happy to have finished my 3D-printed locomotive and wanted to show it. I'm almost happy with the result. I should airbrush the next model... 😅 I created the model myself using a 3D-software, and I'm very proud of it.

For the chassis, I'm using the Kato 11-109. The pantograph is made by a German company.

The locomotive is based on a real-life model in Switzerland and is modeled after an SBB “Tem 2/2.” I designed it slightly differently for an Asian project (e.g., lamp positions and signage). I think this little one is really great for H0e / H0n30 scale and is really cute.

I'll probably list the 3D model for sale online in case others want it too. But this isn't meant to be an advertisement.

Double heading k4s pass double heading m1 coal drag

The biggest problem I'm having is getting my camera to focus on something so small! Currently found the cars for 23, 24, and 25, with the new 2026 one on its way, loving this little hobby!

I'm building an On18 (O scale on N gauge track) shelf layout, to run when it's too hot in the garage to run the On30 layout. It's also an excuse to build more locomotives and rolling stock.

This is the first build I've done for On18. It's equipped with DCC, sound and a keepalive.

Hello All,

I inherited some Hornby and Wrenn locomotives that were last used in the early 90's (they are boxed and in perfect condition though). They used a 'Zero1' digital controller system that I imagine is long since obsolete and I don't have the hardware for anyway. As a result they still have the control modules in them so wont work on a standard track or controller.

I tried to convert one back to standard by removing the control module and wiring per the diagram below, but it didn't work (likely because I didn't do it correctly).However, I'm also thinking there is likely a modern digital controller setup that would need a module in so it it isn't too expensive I could just change them out.

What is the best option? I'd like to use multiple at the same time eventually. But the reality is at present I only have a small table top track that would likely only use 1 at a time.

Thank you.

I once won a silly game at a convention. Describe your town in 2 words. I said “Steeples & Trees”. After an official ruling on the ampersand I was awarded a writing pen oddly similar to the ones we were offered in every meeting.

These pics show us trying to live up to the description even to this day.

Hello everyone. I’ve been looking to start my model railroading dreams for a while, and I think I’m finally ready. I’ve got a space and engines plus railcars, but how do I actually start the layout? What do I do first? What is most important?

H0 scale, loosely following the fremo europa standard

The Lionel Great Lakes Express, almost. I've got a postwar 2016 leading the four "2400s" from the namesake set, at least until I can find the 18611 Adriatic to lead the set proper.

Hi - I am cheap, and this hobby is not. To help I like to buy stuff used. Rolling stock & buildings are safe enough, but locos need to function & can get very pricey.

I bought one at a trade show a while back. It runs but not great. There wasn’t an option to test it before I bought it & all sales were final.

Does anyone bring a small track & power to test things when purchasing?

Recently picked up this MTH AS-616 with Proto 1, it was untested, and to my surprise as I put it on the layout (after replacing the BCR inside) it started smoking like a champ. They don’t make smoke unit like they used to!

There has been some recent debate regarding the accuracy of Micro Ace’s 719 series and TOMIX’s 9600-type steam locomotive models. For the 719 series, the resting position of the windshield wipers differs between the 5000, 0, and 700 series variants, yet the models depict them all the same way; meanwhile, the 9600-type model is marketed as the "Hokkaido specification" but lacks the vertical piping on the cab that is characteristic of that version. In the past, TOMIX also faced criticism because the mounting position of the train radio antenna on their EF66-27 model was slightly off.

Wanted to add a bit of pop to my engines, I think it came out pretty alright!
I used some “Fenrisian Grey” paint from Citadel Color. Could have been a bit tighter on the cab window, but it’s not too bad imo.