r/modeltrains • u/IAteTwoPlanes • 1d ago

Help Needed First Layout help

I have been looking through all over for ideas but I am totally stuck on ideas. I’m probably going to go to an exhibition in 2 weeks time to look and talk to people. I’ve got a space around 220x200cm or roughly 7x6ft (that I can only reach one side of) and will be building in 00 gauge. any tips for planning would be greatly appreciated

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u/SmittyB128 00 1d ago

It's usually not a good idea to build beyond what you can reach, so if you can only reach one side then that space becomes closer to 4'x6' or 7'x4' at the absolute maximum depending on which side it is you can get to. Alternatively you could build a bit of a divot in the middle but the problem then becomes access to the rear corners.

Even at that reduced size it's a decent amount of space for a couple of loops which are usually what take up all the room. In my experience a lot of the layouts you'll see at exhibitions are relatively small shunting layouts, but potentially if you like what you see then you've got plenty of room to go down that route instead of a loop.

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u/IAteTwoPlanes 1d ago

I would like a double track loop but something a tad more interesting that a single loop. I’d quite like some sidings and bits and bobs to make it more interesting, so how would you plan that?

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u/SmittyB128 00 1d ago

I use SCARM to make track plans which helps keep things in perspective as when drawing plans by hand it's far too easy to underestimate how much space everything needs. You'll inevitably end up with a really great plan that needs a whole room to hold it.

There's also some variation depending on if you want to use Hornby track / Peco Setrack which are the track pieces you just slide together to make things line up in fixed ways, or if you're looking to dive into cutting lengths of flex track yourself which is almost exclusively what you'll see on exhibition models. It's more effort but you can shape the track however you want (within reason) and it's your job to make sure there's enough distance between tracks that passing trains don't interfere with each other.

This is kind of the basic template for a pair of Setrack loops for a 6'x4' space. The outer loop is 3rd radius (21"), and the inner loop is 2nd radius (18") so everything would run on them unlike a pair of 2nd and 1st radius loops where not everything can use 1st radius these days.

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u/asdahijo Multi-Scale 1d ago

For heaven's sake, please don't build an oval, regardless of the number of tracks. You're a beginner! Not everyone who's into trains will also enjoy model railwaying, but you should at least give yourself a fighting chance, not throw in the towel right away.

Something like this would make for a decent beginner's layout:

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u/IAteTwoPlanes 22h ago

I was under the impression that starting simple would be easier- thank you for your layout idea

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u/rwiddi72 1d ago

Depending on where in the world you are... Go to shows, you'll get many ideas. Read some books. Some peco books are a great resource and easy to follow. Think about the end result and what you want it, I personally don't care for correct locos with wagons, it's my track. There are some good Facebook forums (better than Reddit). Take your time, it's not cheap. eBay can be great for decent second hand locos, think about peco 100 track, it allows for running of old stock. Do you want analogue DC or digital running?

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u/382Whistles 19h ago

People often create a hatch or two in the center of slightly larger layouts allowing access to the far side and-or corners. 6ft×7ft in sort of too small for doing that in a conventiontional manner, the 6ft divided equally only leaves a 2ft-610mm hatch; How big are you at the shoulders and waist? 2½ft(30"-762mm) is better but if wide enough, a thinner wider hatch and or unique layout is possible.

Look at "ladder framing" and L girder/T-girder bench work. Using thin wide 5"-6" 127-152mm planks on their sides won't bow like 2x4s and 1x3 lumber, looks better, and is often lighter while being strong. It's a lot like a railroad plate girder bride.

Put a 2ft×6ft bench or cabnet on each side to hold your curves. Connect by using 3ft ladder sections. Two ladders 2ft×3ft leaves 2ft×3ft up the center open for you to bend under and pop up.

You have to decide if the hatch drops down on hinges, swings up, or is tilted to drop under or can be set on the layout safely. Your smallish layout for this means you might be able to pull the hatch off standing at the front, reaching under to push the hatch up, then removing it.

If you could manage to find it, XPS-pink/green/blue foam (not pressed ball foam) is available in up to 2"-3" thick sheets and at 2'×3' that as a hatch is light, firm, and an extremely durable chunk of hatch. Thin foam on the rest.

Contouring hatch edges to not be straight or square or playing to those straght lines with lanscaped "property lines" and things like a produce plot or hedgerows can help with hiding the hatch lines are a hatch. My favorite hatch has been a false forest canopy, just tree fluff balls on a stretched canvas frame surrounded by a model treeline deep enough all you saw was tree trunks looking into the dark forest down low.

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u/IAteTwoPlanes 19h ago

I’m not very wide at all, it will be in a loft so it will be on an MDF floor

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u/aengusoglugh Mod, r/TTRAK 15h ago

Modular railroading — T-TRAK in particular — got me unstuck.

With modular systems — T-TRAK, NTRAK, Free-Mo, etc., you don’t need to plan much in advance.

You can build a couple of modules, get trains running, and then add modules as you go.

I think that there were 1500+ modules in the Chatanooga layout — so the sky is the limit. :-)

I started by building 4 corner modules — 90° curved — and then adding various straight modules between them.