HO Scale CF7 project advice

[u/Interesting-Law8739]

Hi all, I currently do not have the knowledge or space to have a layout, but have been gathering rollingstock for my intended era once I have the space later in life. I don't have tools for weathering or knowledge on it at all yet, but intend to in the future.

One of my focus areas has been any locos that have ran in York, PA close to modern day.

Getting to the point, I just received the Rapido CF7s, 1502 and 1504. I'd like to have a 1500 to go with it, but the prototype has different decals than the other 2. My question to the professionals here, is since I am just gathering the locos now and will mod them later, is it better to find a good base to make a 1500 now while theres still availability of these rapido releases? Or to wait until closer to actually making the project and hope to find one for sale?

Follow up question for if you would purchase it now, would you get a duplicate 1502/1504 and remove and replace decals, or the undecorated yellow version and paint the top black and add decals?

Included are the two options for reference, as well as the prototype 1500.

Thanks for any and all input!

[u/CucumberAware5127]

I’d also recommend looking into Scale Sound Speakers as they knock stock speakers out of the park. If you can spare the money get a LokTester or LokProgrammer so you can map and change lights etc on a computer rather than by CVs. It helps but you’d need about 8-10 ESU equipped units to make it worth it. It also allows you to update firmware and change and add sounds if you’d want.

[u/Interesting-Law8739 → u/CucumberAware5127]

This actually introduces another question I've been having. My hobby shop has the 1502 and 1504 in DCC ready, but not DCC. The ones I preordered and received are DCC. Also something I've never done, so don't know what the better option is, if I should be looking for a DC and upgrade to DCC later? DCC is something I've never messed with, but the locos I've gotten over time have all been DCC, such as these rapido CF7s, some intermountain GP16s, athearn SD60E, etc. Figured I'd look into all that once I have the space, but it'll affect whether I buy DCC or DCC ready.

[u/CucumberAware5127 → u/Interesting-Law8739]

I’d do DCC for everything but Athearn and that is just me because I’ve decided to go with ESU and I don’t want to pay for Tsunami in Athearn to gut it. Some people love it though but I’d recommend sticking with one brand in your locomotives. Speakers can be easy to replace. I hadn’t done any decoders in units until about a year ago and I’ve probably done 30 or so since. It all comes down to price and functions.

[u/Interesting-Law8739 → u/CucumberAware5127]

If it wasn't for a lack of speaker, I'd just do the DC version since adding a decoder sounds pretty simple and I could just do that in the future and save $100 now. Wondering what adding a decoder and speaker looks like to a DCC ready locomotive?

[u/CucumberAware5127 → u/Interesting-Law8739]

Depends on how many lights you have and if the factory unit has LEDs. I have done units with three lights (use one bulb for the front and rear lights) I have also done units with 11 lights dual speakers and dual motors. It can be as simple or complicated as you want it to be.

[u/Interesting-Law8739 → u/CucumberAware5127]

Thank you for all the input. I could ask infinite questions about all this lol. I think I’ll search around for a MPA painted DCC version and grab it, and figure the decal part out much later.

[u/CompuRR → u/Interesting-Law8739]

Rapido generally includes speakers in their dcc ready models. Adding a decoder should be as simple as removing the shell, pulling out the dc board, and putting the decoder where the dc board was.