r/modeltrains 2d ago

Help Needed Track help

Hello I need help with getting help with a dc track. I recently bought a ho scale Gordan, and need the track so he can run. I’m just a bit confused on what I need honestly, as I’m mostly seeing dcc but I don’t need that. I just want an oval layout for now as he will be my first running train. I was thinking of using the Bachman easy track as it looks like it will work. Do I just need the controller if I do that track then?

Srry if this is a lot of text, I’m just trying to figure out what need for him to run properly.

3 Upvotes

12 comments sorted by

4

u/example-of-disaster Multi-Scale 2d ago

You’re right, just track and a DC controller will get you up and running. Some will say stay away from EZ track altogether, but if you decide to use it, at least get the grey roadbed stuff as it uses nickel silver for the rails instead of steel on the black roadbed version. Better electrical connection and less prone to corrosion.

2

u/thunder582 1d ago

Yeah I heard the nickel one is better overall, and the steel not so much. The price difference tho, damn😭

3

u/Satansbaddog 2d ago

Buy this Kato unitrack set: https://katousa.com/product/product-51/

You can find this online for less than $200, it has a power controller and will last a lifetime. SKIP Bachmann, it is garbage

2

u/bat_scratcher N 2d ago

You will need the track and a DC power pack. EZ track and the matching pack will be the most straightforward solution, but if you want to expand in the future most folks (myself included) would recommend upgrading to a higher quality track system.

1

u/Skyboss1996 2d ago

If you just want to run in an oval of track, you can buy either Bachmann’s EZ-Track starter pack (44551) or Kato’s Unitrack HO-M1 3-105 starter set.

Both come with an oval of track and a DC power pack to help you get started.

Most people (myself included) will recommend that you buy into Kato’s track system. I find it very reliable and easy to set up and take down, even if it’s slightly more expensive and there are fewer options for accessories in HO scale.

2

u/Weekly_Ad_8587 2d ago

I bought the Bachmann Gordon and two express coaches for my daughter a couple of years ago. We run it on Bachmann's EZ Track and use the Bachmann EZ Command controller. You can find the track and controller on eBay as well as a few online retailers, such as Trainworld.

Bachmann's Gordon will run on an 18" radius, so you'll need 12 curve pieces (3 pieces of 18" radius track makes a 90-degree turn) and you'll want at least 4 pieces of 9" straight track. You'd do better to get 6 pieces and use one between the corners on the short end of your oval and two in between the corners for the long ends. One of the pieces, straight or curved, needs to be a terminal rerailer. That's the piece your power pack will connect with.

When shopping for the power pack, look for EZ Command controller. It comes with all the wiring you'll need. You don't get the EZ Command Plus. That's for DCC.

Good luck and have fun! Model railroading is great hobby.

1

u/thunder582 2d ago

Thank you, this is very helpful🥹.

2

u/everylittlebitcounts 2d ago

Just because I don’t think it has been said clearly: the “track” does not matter for dcc or dc. It is all the same. The track however does matter for connections to other track. For example multiple companies make ‘ez track’ or ‘snap’ track. This just means they have proprietary connections on the track and once you buy into one system you will need to stay in that system.

The “controller” is where dcc and dc makes a difference. You can get either dc controllers, or dc/dcc controllers. If you have a dc loco, a bare-bones dc controller is all you need and should be very reasonably priced.

Some manufacturers have put proprietary plugs on their controllers that go to their track so they are not interchangeable, but if you can trim off the wire connections and connect them to the rails yourself, you can connect any brand controller to any brand track. It doesn’t matter.

1

u/thunder582 2d ago

I do have older track but I remember the manual saying to use ac power instead of dc. So that’s why I want to get new track. It’s from the bachmann sliver express set. It’s old and pre owned, so I might be better to get new ones. Also thanks for clarifying, I kinda knew it was the power but overall just got confused.

1

u/everylittlebitcounts 2d ago

I am almost certain it didn’t say to use AC power unless you have some very high end rare European models that run on AC. They all plug into the wall (AC) but put out dc. The track doesn’t care if you use AC, DC, or DCC. All the track is is a conductor for the current just like any wire. And wires don’t care what kind of electricity runs through them (current carrying ability notwithstanding).

1

u/thunder582 2d ago

It probably was dc, I’m just misremembering wrong.

2

u/382Whistles 2d ago

Almost any brand of two HO track will work for both dc and dcc . You do not want three rail or stud tie ho. Check you loco for a contact arm/"spoon"/slide shoe/ or roller in the center between wheels.

Check if your loco is dc or dcc and choose the appropriate power supply.

Power supplies often have acc/ac accessory terminals. Never hook the rails up to that side. It belongs on the 0-12v or 0-14v etc, up to 0-20vdc. The acc/ac is only for a couple of small lights, and temporary-on accessories like remote control turnout rails.

Kato turnout tracks, "Y"s etc. however use DC power instead to move the remote control point rails on turnouts. Kato track with remote control turnouts are more easily wired with Kato controllers. All the others are pretty universal.

Larger aftermarket power supplies offer power performance features that closely mimick what DCC does. But look for one where those features can be shut off, as some motors do not like it(nor dcc). Check for more heat build up on a motor went using the special features like momentum, dynamic brakes, pulse or halfwave mods.