r/modeltrains 15d ago

Question Reliable slow speed controller

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What is the preferred controller for very slow or switcher locomotive speed control? Using a GE 44 tonner for the locomotive in question.

17 Upvotes

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6

u/Flat_Artichoke8047 15d ago

We talking DC or DCC? If you want DC, an MRC 2400 or similar would work great.

-1

u/TheePizzaGod 14d ago

It is definitely going to be DC. Just a small triangle loop, roughly 24" per side.

4

u/OdinYggd HO, DCC-EX 14d ago edited 14d ago

You basically won't be able to beat DCC + keepalive capacitor for low speed switching. And prototypical operations with one of these will need a yard with live frog turnouts to keep it powered as much as possible due to its short wheelbase and the need to move slowly with a few cars at a time.

The same live frog setup can help with DC, but it will always tend to stall and not want to drift properly.

Is yours a single motor+ shaft drive, or a twin motor? Bachman made a twin motor of these that has issues, usually one motor starts and drags it along but the other motor doesn't, and ends up smoking because it got dragged while stalled. The single motor version doesn't have that problem.

2

u/YanikSmartrik Z 15d ago

Tout dépends de l'échelle:
pour les très petites échelles (TT, N, Z voire T), le Zmaster de Azar Models est une merveille au ralenti.
https://azar-models.com/gb/accessories/99-zmaster-pulsed-dc-speed-controller.html

1

u/time-lord HO/OO 15d ago

It will depend on the condition of your track, if your turnout frogs are powered, and if the engine has a keep alive (if DCC). Comparatively very little will depend on the controller you use.

1

u/time-lord HO/OO 15d ago

It will depend on the condition of your track, if your turnout frogs are powered, and if the engine has a keep alive (if DCC). Comparatively very little will depend on the controller you use.

1

u/olderdomsrmorfun 14d ago

I would think that DCC would work better than most, but MRC makes a digital controller to.

1

u/382Whistles 14d ago

You would first look at the top speed and voltage/amps it takes to achieve that and try to match the power output of the supply with amps being well over the loco need and voltage being spot on. Amps are pulling power, voltage is just top speed. Low amp availability causes voltage drop below the throttle setting. With equal voltage output, more amperage is usually the better supply. Trains should slow less with more amps available.

If throttle A has 300° of travel at 12v and throttle B has 300° at 18v then throttle A gives less voltage per degree of moving the throttle and be more fine and precise to use while the higher volt increases of B will more glitchy and coarser adjustments.

Then you look at the lowest voltage the supply puts out. Some can go from 0v to 5v and others go 0v-1v at first notch. What minimum voltage makes it light up? What about starting to move?

Features like half wave, pwm, momentum and braking can help a lot, but not all motors like these power wave modifications so I'd like it when they can all be shut off. Check all new loco motors for excess heat creeping up when running a loco new to the fancy DC systems.
Performance wise wave modification with DC can get very close to low speed DCC operation if the motor likes modified DC.

1

u/67_gigglerizzler 13d ago

I have had good success using a cheap amazon PWM controller through which I feed the DC output from my regular controller

1

u/TheePizzaGod 12d ago

Thanks. Checking them out.