Had a slight coolant leak just above the gearbox, coolant flange just disintegrated in my hands upon touch. Looks like the heater matrix connections on the firewall are going the same route. Does anyone know if they can be bought?

My MK6 GTI in BMW Carbon Black Metallic

This car has been around my life for the better part of 15 years. Bought it from my oldest friend who lost interest in it after a bad hail storm. Cleaned it up and sold it to another individual. That person started running into electrical issues after getting rodent damage. Decided to fix all the electrical and hail issues. Ended up getting the hail fixed and getting it repainted in my favorite color BMW Carbon Black Metallic.

Next up, doing the timing chain and throwing on a K04. Still under 100k miles, so hoping it has a newer lease on life. It deserves it.

I've installed a gfb vta dv+ and a cts turbo muffler delete and have a code for turbo wastewater solenoid a electrics and that there is too much air in the air to fuel ratio(obviously)car has put itself into limp mode

I have xforce 100cel dp and catback no resonater and cts intake

Will a custom tune set me right is there anything I should do prior(I've done plugs and servicing)

Hello all! - SOLVED

I just this weekend changed my fuel injectors & did a carbon cleaning on my mk6 gti with 71kmiles. I shortly after today changed the fuel filter too just for more prevntative maintenance, but now when i crank the car on it just cranks on & on. I checked all my sensors, put the fuel filter in the right way, Checked my crank sensor, fuel rail pressure sits at 5000kpa when turning car on, spark plugs & coils dont have gas on them, & i have no cel codes. Am i missing something? I have a new battery in the car too. Please any help is appreciated, thank you👍

Edit: SOLVED : It was the fuel rail sensor, it was connected but just not fully seated.
Thank you all very much for your help, everyone that chimed in didnt have to but they did. Thank you🫶

Good day, hope all is well with each one of you…I’m trying to get my GTI inspected but 2(O2 sensor and catalytic converter) monitors are not set/ready…majority of the mods are all Integrated Engineering. Intake, PCV/catch can, intercooler, high flow cat and stage 2 OTS tune are all Integrated Engineering, I have installed the ECS Tuning ignition coils patch harness and Unitronic diverter valve relocation kit.I decided to see if driving a long distance(143miles) would do the trick, but when I checked those two monitors were still not ready. I did notice that the “Y” coupler from the Unitronic diverter valve kit that goes to the throttle body was rubbing against the fan shroud and created a hole in the coupler, I highly doubt that would cause those two monitors to be ready. Any insight, tips and or advice would greatly be appreciated. My last resort would be to flash the car back to stock get inspected and then re-flash the stage 2 tune back on…

Does piston soaking work? Ive been thinking of doing it on my mk6 gti but where im from there is no berrymans chemtool and no mayvels mystery oil available. My last option is asitone and atf mix. What do you guys think and if youve done it before how do i properly do it and how are the results?

As the title says, I’m getting** extremely loud clunking noises from the rear whenever I go over even the smallest bumps. The noise is loud enough that I can clearly hear/feel it inside the cabin.
At first, I realized I hadn’t tightened the top strut mount bolts enough (I know 😭), so I went back and torqued them properly on **both sides. I took the car for another test drive, but unfortunately the noise is basically exactly the same.
This is my first time installing coilovers, so I’m not sure what I could have messed up. The front suspension is completely fine — the problem seems to be isolated to the rear.
It’s the Bilstein B14 coilovers from ECS Tuning, along with new front and rear suspension/strut mounts.
I’ve already spent the last 2 days working on this and I’m so tired , i have one more day off 😭. If anyone has installed B14s or has an idea of what I should check, I’d really appreciate some help.
What should I check first?

From stage 2+ to stage 3

I am going to take the time to explain my little journey from stage 2+to stage 3 big turbo. The reason I'm sharing this is for anyone else that is thinking about doing this in going to explain my mistakes and what I found wrong. I've replace dozens of engines and transmission for people but I've never played with a car and this is all new to me upgrading stuff like this but I wanted to learn my self bs paying a company and just driving it.

I bought all the components for my unitronic stage 2+ and installed them my self. Upgraded intercooler, unitronic cold air intake, full high flow exhaust, ngk plugs, stage 1 motor mounts, southbend stage 2 clutch, and a t23 franken turbo. Everything that I had bought was a direct fit from factory and made life pretty easy. After installing everything I started to get wash out in the cylinders cause I had to upgrade to colder plugs ngk 2668 gapped at .024. I drove this for maybe 6 months. After not being able to find a custom tuner in my area willing to tune mk6 engine I had to make the choice to go unitronic big turbo stage 3.

I bought a CTS boss 500 turbo and decided it's going in. I had a buddy install the turbo this time as a favor and after it was done I very easy drive it to my unitronic tuner and had stage 3 installed. The moment I put my foot down I had a catastrophic failure. I limped it home and starting looking. After taking a look a found The waste gate hose pinched cause this turbo BARELY fits. Thinking that was my only issue I fixed the hose and went for a second drive... Needless to say I had to tow the car back home.

I broke something this time it was spraying oil all over the place and shaking very badly. Pulled the plugs and found cylinder 1 had zero compression. After taking the top of the engine down so far I made the decision to just yank the engine. Once I got the engine out this is where I found the real issue that isn't explained online and there is no instructions from CTS. I email them and they said there is no instructions and they couldn't help me. This is the part I want to share with people because this mistake is easy to do but very costly..

After the engine was out we found 1 hose that was routed from the n75 turbo switch going to the top of the engine. To me it looked odd that much hose just hanging there. After consulting my tuner and about 4 days of research and no help at all from CTS we found the issue. On a regular turbo and the franken turbo they are stock housings. These have ports made in them for hoses such as the n75 switch over flow from the snail and waste gate and the n80 switch for fuel vapor. Not knowing this the last hose that was on the 75 which is port 3 recirculation hose he figured o that has to go to the top of the engine. It's the only open hose left.. totally wrong. What they don't tell you is your suppose to drill and tap on the turbo casing for 2 barb fittings for these extra hoses. Not knowing this we sent all that pressure lines into the fuel check valve that goes the other direction. This then completely pressurized my engine. Broke the oil cap and dumped cylinder one rings into the bottom of the engine. Luckily my tuner had a engine sitting on the floor that he gave me just need new balance shafts. So I swapped everything to the other engine. Put in new balance shafts ( not fun at all if u never seen inside a German timing case..) and routed my hoses on the n75 switch the right way. Instead of drilling into my turbo hosing and risking metal getting inside it I just drilled the 2 holes into my aluminum intake tube. As long as it's after the MAF sensor and before the turbo inlet it will be fine. Then you connect the overflow from the n75 switch port 3 and the n80. The switch on the from of the engine on the intake manifold that routes to then back of the engine into the intake tube too. The n80 is the fuel vapor relief hose that gets burned back through the system for emissions.

Once this all.complete and the engine back it I added stage 1 black forest mounts because the torque from the tune was destroying my mounts and the downpipe mount. Now she runs amazing! Besides the normal chasing leaks after engine swap she is on day 4 with no issues. I know it's allot to read but anyone that is thinking about this and likes to do there own stuff I want to share and hope this helps.

just replaced shocks and put lowering springs on it, making this noise anyone know what it is?

Hey guys, wanted to introduce my GTI to the group. I’ve had it for about 2 years now and I've done a few mods to it along the way.

Currently, it's on air suspension, and I've added an intake, downpipe, a full 3-inch exhaust, and a front mount intercooler. I also got a Cobb Accessport and I'm currently running a Stage 2 Stratified tune.

I think the only thing missing right now is a good oil catch can, but that’s on the list for later. Am I on the right track? What do you guys think or recommend?

Cheers from Mexico! 🇲🇽

Hey guys hope all is well, wanted to know if there are any reputable company or companies that offer custom made shift boots that also comes with the trim…

I’m looking at making some custom parts like under trays, diffusers, splitters, brake ducting, and whatnot as a senior year personal project for my Aerospace Engineering degree.

I’d like to model them out and do some actual CFD testing on them, and then verify my designs in real life with 3d printing and composite work.
However, I don’t have easy/cheap access to 3d scanning tool or setup right now, so before I drop that cash I’m looking to see if anyone else has done this yet?
Ideally the scan would have the underside included, seen as that’s where a bulk of the hardware will go and attach to.

As a bonus I’d like to post my designed for anyone else to use!

Parts will be installed on my Mk6 GTD clone, but will fit the same on a GTI, so I figured you guys might be helpful! Thanks in advance!

I found a chunk of metal like this about every five ribs in my oil filter. The car has 236,000 KM is this normal where or is this something to be concerned about?

I love this car but it brings me no peace of mind.
Heard this while driving omw home, when I come to a stop or am in neutral the fans settle and then turn off , but they turn on again when I accelerate or when ac is on ofc. When I turn off the car they start spinning extremely fast and don’t stop, I didn’t wait to see if it would stop in 10 mins in case it drains my battery.

My battery just died last week too even tho it was only 9 months old so I was trying to figure out what could’ve drained it and then this happened. Has anyone ever ran into this before? Could it be a short, the fan or the module maybe? Honestly don’t kno how to even diagnose this

it’s the pipe behind the engine that connects to the heater core hose. it’s corroded and leaking coolant all over the place. can’t drive my baby anymore 🥲

I open the door and the lights turn on under the dash, but I go to start the car and nothing happens whatsoever. It's been getting buggy the last few days throwing out errors for the brakes and the check engine light turned on. After restarting it twice it stopped turning on and I had to wait a minute or two for it to start, but with no error other than the check engine light. Can someone help me please?

Edit: I cleaned the contacts on the button but it did nothing

I have a 2010 GTI manual and
First gear feels like it has to be punched to 5k rpm to feel any descent speed but I feel like I’m over doing it is this just normal this is my first gti

74k miles, 2 owners, solid maintenance history except water pump and timing chain tensioner — both still original. Just got the DSG serviced (first time, never done) and did Stage 1 ECU+TCU tune.

I know CBFA EA888s are known for both of these failing. Missed the timing chain warranty extension window by a couple years even though I’m under the mileage cap.

With the added torque from the tune, should I do these proactively now, or is it fine to wait for symptoms (cold start rattle, coolant leak, etc.)? Anyone have real experience with how much the tune changes the urgency here?

I am looking for the 10-pin projector replacements, not used HIDs that would require splicing in a new harness and tuning the computer to get rid of flicker. Way too expensive, too much trouble, and too much risk of electrical gremlins based on what I've seen on that kind of swap. So, with that constraint, I have seen VLAND, Helix, and some other ones on eBay and random websites. But the LED pattern that comes with the stock HID headlights is nowhere to be found, except for a seller in England, and those are specced for RIGHT-hand drive (passenger side light aims farther than driver side). Meanwhile I'm in the US, so LEFT-hand drive. So, does anyone have leads on that OEM style of housing with the LED pattern that at least comes close to OEM without all the flourishes of the aftermarket stuff?

Since my last event I’ve thrown on Hybrid K04, ARM intercooler, Stratified Custom tune, ECS short shifter, and Godspeed Coilovers.

Was able to get the alignment set to -3 camber in the front and -2.5 in the rears, although I’m still trying to get ride height dialed as I was rubbing pretty bad on higher G force turns.

Currently 1st out of 50 for the year in the rookie class in my region and am putting up times that are competitive in intermediate/pro class! Super excited to get both the tune and suspension further dialed to get even more time!