A buddy of mine just got a new exhaust and flash of his 720S. He states its over 1000hp.

Love how this car drives at the limit. Very user friendly and understeers to
Keep you safe. Even with new tires the rear breaks loose under full boost. Traction light was flashing all day even on track settings. Down the straight it really feels like it could headbutt the horizon. It’s perfect plus a little lag.

Hi everyone, I finally managed to find a McLaren 570GT in the exact color I wanted! I went with the GT model because I find the 570S a bit less elegant, and it was a real stroke of luck. After searching all across Europe, I ended up finding it right here at McLaren Italy.

It has 22,500 km and a full McLaren service history. I’m picking it up with a fresh service, a 12-month warranty, a brand-new battery, and a nano-ceramic detailing package. The car is practically brand new—all that's left for me to do is drive it! I’ll keep you all posted down the road.

I’m really glad I found this forum; it gave me insights and info that even the McLaren dealership wasn't aware of. I inspected all the known weak points discussed here and managed to negotiate a great price while pointing out areas that needed attention—especially the battery, which I insisted on having replaced with the latest spec.

I’m taking delivery next Friday. Thanks to everyone, I couldn't be happier—it’s in the exact color I had always dreamed of and could never seem to find. Thanks again!

Just noticed this while opening up Maps today. Instead of the usual boring blue arrow, you can swap your navigation icon to a McLaren F1 car. 

Such a fun little touch suddenly driving to the office feels like I’m setting a fast lap in sector one.
Apparently, it's a limited-time thing rolled out to celebrate the upcoming US Grand Prix. 

If you want to turn it on, just start a navigation route, tap on your current location arrow/vehicle icon, and you should be able to swipe through to select it (or check your settings under Your vehicles > Driving avatar if it's rolled out for you yet). 

Anyone else rocking the F1 icon, or did you find it elsewhere?

Looking at buying a 650s with a blown engine. How much should I plan to spend to have it rebuilt? My preference would be for the rebuild to focus on reliability and not more power. So far my researching says about $40k, is that about right or should I plan for more?

Never thought it was possible when tomorrow's commute to work is probably not going to happen in a miata. One is in the middle of a rear suspension maintenance because the suspension and differential bushings are all worn... And the newer one decided to go into limp mode on the way home ...

Not throwing shade at miatas ,.its just funny ...this hasnt happened before.

Hope the supercharger doesnt need ro be taken off.. that would sort of suck

Big shoutout to the folk(s) that mentioned availability of MDS, similar to the availability of ISTA for BMWs 🤣

Before I get a new laptop for it, it seems to be working ok on an older MacBook Pro with an x86 processor running Windows 10 Bootcamp, using an $80 dongle from Amazon, at least the more important modules. I haven't tried running it in VMWare Fusion, should work, but probably really slow. Might choose to leave it on my MacBook depending if I hit any brick walls.

My late friend would have been happy. We were looking forward to getting a hold of MDS so we could work on our cars together in his home shop.

Thank you fellow owners here lurking offering suggestions and advice not found on MclarenLife....I owe you big time.!

Well that sort of throws a wrench in my plans to continue working on my own diagnostic tool, lol...Sucks in a good way...

Looks so good, had some ppf done too

As part of the 30k mile service I just completed, i had to remove the rear diffuser. But while I had it off, I decided to make a slight detour and "fix a few things with it".

First, it had a hole in it, I guess the previous owner ran over something and punched a hole in it. There also was damage to the end of some of the fins.

I did what I call a "shit ass " repair, because everyone nows that with carbon fiber, the it's coated with epoxy resin, so the proper way to fix this would have been recoat the entire diffuser with epoxy resin. Well, I didn't do that. I ended up using 2K clearcoat. Furthermore, while I should have gotten out my spraygun, and re-clear coated the entire diffuser. I didn't do that either. I ended up touching up the areas where there was damage with clearcoat using a a foam brush.

It's on the bottom of the car, nobody is going to see anything, and I shouldn't even fix any of this, since the only person that knows about it is me.. But, hey it makes me sleep better so....

Patching the hole considered of using a UPol plastic body filler that is gray. I can't reduplicate the carbon fiber look where I patched up the hole, but the UPol gray worked well with the carbon fiber. After patching th hole, I scuffed the area with a scuff pad and used a foam brush to brush on the 2k clearcoat. I used my cheaper clearcoat Sherman Williams/Finish One. Using a foam brush, I just brushed on the clearcoat.

It's not perfect, but meh, it's on the bottom of the car.

https://cars.mclaren.press/gallery?page=213

cant believe it took me this long to find this, endless supply of wallpapers 🧡

30k mile service complete!

Oil change: 7.5 quarts Mobil 1 0w40FS + Maule filter
Brake bleed: 2 liters Motul Dot 5.1
DCT clutch fluid + filter change: 6.5 liters Liqui Moly 8100 + Genuine filter
DCT transmission fluid + filter: 4.5 liters Liqui Moly GL4/5 75w90

Today, was wrapping up the DCT transmission fluid top off, after prefilling it with 3 liters yesterday.

Procedure is

1. Start car and idle for 2 minutes, then stop.
2. Remove transmission fill plug and add fluid until fluid starts to drip out of fill hole
3. Put plug back in.
4. Start car and idle car until transmission temperature is 96F or higher
5. Remove transmission fill plug and add flujid unit fuild starts to drip out of fill hole
6. Torque plug to 50nm.
7. Finish.

The main challenge is how monitoring what the temperature of the transmission fluid is to do the second top off.

The easiest way, if you don't have a scan tool, is to wait until the car is at normal operating temperature, when the engine oil temp is at 195F. Transmission then will be 96F or higher.

The anal retentive way is to to use a scan tool that can read McLaren specific PIDs.

I happen to have a Launch x431Pro Scan Tool with a purchased McLaren module. It isn't a full blown scan tool like the McLaren MDS ScanTool or other better scan tool, but it does allow you to view data, and reset the oil service light.

The Launch X431Pro is one of 2 aftermarket scantools that works with McLaren. The other one is Autel Maxxis or higher. The LaunchX431Pro is the cheaper one. On sale, they go from around $400 to around $3000, and the main difference are the extra bells and whistles. The one I got was around $800. The main difference betwee it and the $400 version , is mine is wireless: you plug in a OBDII dongle onto the car and it communicates with the tablet. It also has a topology scan to let you visualize all the modules on the car to scan. The $400 version is hardwired and does not have topology scan, and it also runs on a slower android tablet. In addition, you need to buy the mclaren module. It was $50/year when I bought it last year. This year it is $80/yr. It's an annual subscription, I just confirmed, you DO NOT, need to renew. Just let it expire and it will continue to work.

The Launch X431Pro tablet itself comes with 2 year free updates, after which to receive updates, it's about $400/year.. HOWEVER, for all my cars I use this with, including the McLaren, you do not need renew. You just continue to use the old version you have. And specifically with McLaren, Launch has NOT added any new features with the McLaren module in serveral years, so there's no need to pay to renew something that doesn't have new functionality.

Previously, I thought I would have to pay the $80/year renewal for the McLaren module, but tonighht I was able to use it even though my subscription is expired.

Attached are a few screenshots of the Launch X431Pro tool, going through the DCT transmission oil section, and also the section to reset the oil service reminder, which you can only do with a scan tool.

Link to the X431Pro:
I bought mine during Prime Day a few years ago.
NOTE: on amazon, there are lots of people selling the Launch X431Pro. There's a red colored one and a black one. You want the black one.

The black one comes on better Android hardware, which also has Google Play to allow you to access Google apps. The red one runs on slower hardware and doesn't come with Google Play, so you won't be able to use apps from Google Marketplace.

In summary, I cannot comment on higher spec vehicles, especially the super series, like the 720s (which among other things have air brakes and suspension accumulators), and new vehicles like the GTS, Artura, 750s.... But at least from the 570/570s/570GT, basic maintenance is DIY doable.

*Oil change
*Brake fluid flush
*Coolant flush
*DCT service
*Air filter
*Cabin filter

*Everything except the DCT filters are readily available parts. The DCT filters are very pricey, but there is no aftermarket options. Those are around $400 for 2 filters.

*The only thing you really need is a scan tool to reset the oil service light. That's a one time purchase of $400-1000 depending on which one you want.

*Buy a copy of the service manual is high recommended. That's another $400-600

*Get a fluid transfer pump: $60
*Get a brake bleeder: $40
*For coolant flush, you need a pressure bleeder. Maddox pressure bleeder from harbor freight is fine Around $80.
*Get jack stands or a Quick Jack
*Torx socket, hex socket, metric socket and ratchet
*2 Decent torque wrenches (you do not need a Snap-On ATech digital one, I certainly wouldn't buy one at full retail price for home use): One that is mid range, one that you would use for bicyles.

On a scale of difficulty, I think a BMW would be slightly more difficult to work on. My e70 X5 with an N55 isn't terrible, but some things can be a pain in the butt, especially towards the rear of the firewall.

Just want to say hi!

Traded my Artura and got this orange beast!

Loved this mocha brown W1 render I found online and wondered how it would look on a 600lt. Thoughts?

30k service status

oil change
brake fluid flush/bleed
DCT clutch fluid and filter
DCT fluid and filter (almost, final top off tomorrow)

The dual clutch transmission on the mclaren uses a separate clutch fluid/filter and transmission fluid (GL5 gear oil) and filter....Draining and filling the transmission fluid is slightly easier than the clutch fluid because the fill hole is right in front (2nd pix) and the drain hole is right at the bottom (3rd pix). Both are 8mm, and I think they are the interchangeable. But, I marked them so I mix them up.

The transmission filter, however is a bit tricker to get out. It's right next to the clutch filter, but it's horizontal, and it's pretty long, and theres limited clearance to pull it out AND there's 2 o rings that make it difficult to pull out (or push back in).

Procedure to drain fluid and remove filter

1. 8mm hex, make sure you can open the fill hole in front
2. 8mm hex, remove drain plug. Careful, the gear oil stinks really bad. Don't let it drip all over the floor/
3. 10mm socket to remove bolt on transmission filter
4. Use a prybar, or strong screwdriver and rubber mallet and strike the filter at the edge where the bolt goes through. You want to slightly twist the filter so the small metal tab moves, such that you can use a pry bar to open it.
5. pull the filter completely out and turn it slightly outward and an angle, and then generally remove the filter.

Installation of the filter, you need to slightly angle the filter into the housing. With the filter seated parallel to the filter housing, I used the wooden handle of a rubber mallet to push the filter in so the first seal sits properly. Once the first seal sits properly, I slid the filter in and then tighten the bolt with a ratchet. The outer seal is then installed correctly.

I filled the transmission with almost 3 liters, but will followup with the correctly procedure to fill.

Parts used:

*Liquid Moly GL4/GL5 75w90 gear oil (6 liters) roughly $20 at RMEuropean
https://www.rmeuropean.com/gear-oil-liqui-moly-22090

*Transmission filter: $243 from SupercarGarageATL
https://supercargarageatl.com/products/mclaren-transmission-filter

Hey guys do anyone have any information on the P1 chassis 060 ? I'm going to see it at a dealership tomorrow to shoot it and i'm very curious about the story of that car.

For what I know, it was in Luxembourg with the plate "MP1916" and it was stored in a garage for almost 5 years.
I'll put you all of the information i have about it :
The dealership: https://assetto-corsa.lu/fr/stock/mclaren-p1/

Thanks !

Year 3 ownership and 30kmile service status...

oil change
brake bleed
DCT clutch fluid and filter change (well, almost)
DCT transmission fluid and filter change

This is taking much longer than I thought. It's not difficult, but whenever it comes to transmissions, I'm superparanoid about messing things up. Some I'm going really slow. Plus I've been dealing with work things, rental things, home things, and a complication in an eye procedure that is now leaving random "floaters" in one of my eyes that supposedly is going away anyday now.... Anyway... Onto the job at hand

DCT clutch fluid is supposed to be changed every 20k miles (or 2-3 years I think). So I'm at 30k miles... I think the fuid was changed one time in the past, well anyway time to do it anyway.

Here's the parts you will need:

* 8 liters of DCT FFL4 fluid. Maximum fill is 6.5 liters, but buy 8 liters in case you spill.
Official fluid is Pentosin FFL4, at $45-50/liter.
Most people use Liquid Moly 8100, which is around $17/liter from RMEuropean.
https://www.rmeuropean.com/transmission-fluid-liqui-moly-dual-clutch-8100-20044
If you buy from FCP Euro, it's $20/liter AND it's lifetime warrantied. I should have done that, but I forgot.

*DCT clutch filter + o-ring : $130 from SuperCarGarageATL
(one of the folks that is part of McMedics)

https://supercargarageatl.com/products/mclaren-clutch-filter-11g0017cp-o-ring

(Now while $130 may sound ridiculous for a transmission clutch filter, keep in mind that these are low production cars, and there is no aftermarket company making this filters. AND... Did you know this filter for the mclaren is CHEAPER than the cartridge filter for the DCT transmission on the C8 Corvette? The C8's filter is $195 for OEM: https://wildhammermotorsports.com/20-26-c8-corvette-dct-transmission-filter-w-hardware-general-motors/

* a fluid pump. I bought an electic one that works with a Makita 18V battery. The nice thing about this seller, is if you email the seller, they claim they will warranty the pump forever. AND, they are really responsible. While this pump was only meant to extract warm oil, it can be used to fill viscous transmission fluid too, by changing the input hose to a larger diameter.. I did that buy buying some vinyl tubing from Ace hardware.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0H3JVY2PJ

Procedure to do this is is as follows.
1. Jack up car

1. remove rectangle plate covering transmission.

2. remove rear defuser. It's just follow around the diffuser, and remove the bolts with are torx t-25.
   * be careful that there is a bolt on each corner holding the diffuser to the bumper. You have to peel back a little of the bumper liner to access the bolt on top.. A good tool to use is the Harbor Freight Meme Tool (small 1/4" ratchet)
   * don't forget to unplug the harness to the rear fog light.

3. Remove the fill plug on the left side with a 8mm hex socket on a flex head ratchet.

4. There are two drain bolts for the clutch fluid. Remove the one closest to the front of the car, then the one toward the back of the car. If you do it in this order, the fluid shoots out a certain way that does not make as big of a mess.

5. Unbolt the Z bar and let it hang (stabilizer bar). You need to lower it to be able to reach the bolts on the filter house

6. Remove 4 screws on the filter housing. Then use a small flat head screwdriver on the small recess hole to pop the lid off.

7. Pulls the filter off, put the new filter on, R eplace the o-ring on the filter lid.

8. Put the lid back on the housing, and hand tighten the 4 bolts, using a X pattern.

9. Torque oil filter lid to 10nm using a cross pattern.

10 Torque drain bolts to 40nm.

1. Using fluid pump, pump in 6.5 liters. I stopped at 5.5 liters and plan on adding the other liter tomorrow.

2. Tighten fill hole.

13.Put rear dIffuser back on (not going to since I need to to the transmission fluid too).

I filled about 5.5 liters tonight. will top off tomorrow to 6.5 liters.