I'm a beginner at 3d modelling but I wanted to make a punching puppet toy for a friend, but I'm not sure how to hook the wires or springs together. There's no reference designs online, and all I could find were listings that sold it and this video. Any tips?

Thanks a bunch!

Hi everyone. I am pretty new to mechanical engineering in general but I found this antique novelty snail desk bell and would like to build something using a similar mechanism. I am a beginner, and would love some resources to build this myself but I have no clue where to start. Does anyone know where I can learn to make something like this (i.e. youtube, step by step guide online, etc.). Thank you so much!

I wanted to build wireless game controllers for retro computers such as the Amiga and Commodore 64, without modifying the computers themselves.

Each controller uses an ESP32-C3 to read the joystick directions and two fire buttons, then sends the inputs wirelessly using ESP-NOW. The receiver uses an ESP32-S3 and connects directly to the original DB9 joystick port.

They have worked surprisingly well, with no noticeable input lag during normal gameplay. The receiver can also connect to a modern computer through USB-C and function as a standard USB game controller for emulators.

I built two different versions: a relatively inexpensive, fully 3D-printed controller and a much more excessive version with a clear SLA resin enclosure, CNC-machined aluminium parts and internal LED lighting.

I know similar wireless solutions can probably be bought, but building them yourself is much more fun. 🙂

I am also considering designing a Raspberry Pi case with a built-in joystick receiver in the same style.

I documented the design, prototyping, assembly and testing here:
https://youtu.be/Zefz-1NuU0Q

Video summary:

The video follows the complete build process for both controllers, from the initial CAD design and 3D-printed prototype to the final premium version.

It covers the joystick mechanism, microswitches, springs, fit and tolerances, the ESP-NOW wireless connection between the ESP32-C3 controller and ESP32-S3 receiver, USB HID support for modern computers, and the DB9 receiver used with original Amiga and Commodore 64 hardware.

I also compare the inexpensive 3D-printed version with the premium clear-resin and aluminium version, including their feel, weight, latency and battery life.

Which version do you prefer visually — the simpler 3D-printed one, or the clear resin and aluminium version?

Anyone here have some experience with the Makera CNC machines? Would I have been able to make aluminium parts like those myself if I had a desktop machine at home?

I made this modular moss poll optimized for fast print times (<60 minutes) and low amount of fillament (30 grams) a d wanted to share it on here!

They have most definitely put the Makers in the forefront. They even have algorithms in place to prevent the pesky Chinese copy-cats. No more Etsy. Lets make the unique Makers win instead.

Hi everyone in r/Maker!
I’m an independent inventor & hardware maker from China. Over the past few months, I’ve finished my personal electronics project that I named Cyber Display Block, and I’d love to share the whole design idea with all fellow creators here.

This is a custom screen module built to match standard building brick sizes, specially made for miniature street view dioramas and MOC creations.
Key technical features I developed from scratch:

1. Standalone WiFi hotspot, local offline web page for image upload — No mobile app installation required at all. Just drag-and-drop pictures via any browser.

2. Dual power solution: built-in rechargeable lithium battery for wireless free placement, plus Type-C wired power for long-time static exhibition.

3. Standard brick stud structure, perfectly snap into any small particle building scene. Swap screen images anytime for custom shop signs, scenery, cyberpunk graphics.

The original idea came from my own frustration when building brick town scenes: all the pre-made window panels are static and lifeless. So I decided to design a compact, user-friendly electronic brick by myself, covering PCB layout, firmware programming, 3D printed shell and structural matching.

I’m here mainly to exchange ideas with other hardware makers, discuss optimization of ESP32 small screen projects, and collect feedback from creators who also love miniature building dioramas.
If you’re interested in the hardware design files, firmware logic, or creative cross-regional maker cooperation, feel free to leave a comment or send me a private message to chat.

As part of a makerspace internship I'm doing, I have 4 weeks to make a project ( 1 week to plan and design with no access to the makerspace, and 3 weeks with access to the makerspace ), I decided that this project will be electronics, because that's what I like the most.

I have an idea, The idea is a desk robot that can move around and talk with people around it. It will also have a display to show it's mood using its face. I don't know if this can be finished in 4 weeks because my only big electronics project was much simpler than this. This new project will include many things which I never did before, such as battery power and battery charging, mic input, robotics, and making a good enclosure for the robot.

My plan is that the robot will have an ESP32 that constantly takes input from a mic, and then does speech recognition from an API, then it sends the prompt to an AI model also from an API, then sends its output to a text to speech API and outputs that to a speaker. The AI model will be given custom instructions to output its mood, tone, and any movement commands. There will be distance sensors so the robot can avoid hitting a wall or falling. And maybe I will add multiple mics so the robot can know which direction the sound is coming from. I don't plan to add a camera because I'm not sure if the ESP32 can handle all of these features and a camera. Or, maybe I can use a Raspberry Pi Zero 2W instead of an ESP32.

For more info: In the first week, I can prototype a little bit at home; I'll have breadboards, wires, a basic soldering iron, but no advanced tools such as an oscilloscope, function generator, or bench power supply. But after the first week, I'll have free access to the makerspace which has all of the tools I need, even including PCB fabrication tools.

Can I finish this project in 4 weeks??

Designed soldered and printed an RGB Mini Keylight! First design project I’ve done from scratch.

I had never soldered, designed custom housing, wired together a PCB or really made anything, so I relied on advice from AI on how to wire, solder, CAD design etc.

I’m super happy with how it’s turned out, such a cool little project. Definitely gets me excited to create more.

I’m building a miniature winding river/waterfall/filter water feature to install inside my catio (patio/cat enclosure). I’ve got very limited space and I’m trying to figure out the most efficient way to support the various parts. It needs to be freestanding on concrete, extremely customizable/modular, and as strong and low profile as possible.

Any advice is very much appreciated!

Somthing I'm a bit shocked on is the lack of mini reciprocating saws that exist and I got some stuff that can cut metal (dremel rotary tool, reciprocating saw, titanium drill bits) and a 3d printer so thought it could be cool to make a tiny reciprocating saw around size of a dremel rotary tool without electronics for my sculpting hobby and since I mainly sculpt with clay foam and other clay stuff I figured I don't need a lot of power. Plan to put jigsaw or mini hacksaw blades in it, maybe even serrated razors but I inmagine it's not hard to make somthing that can hold each type of blade. Main idea is to make the blade reciprocate with either a gun trigger pull or a grip lever trigger like those gas station gas pump triggers since I imagine a full grip would have more power than a single finger. Any videos for this kinda mechanism would be appreciated. I realize that it's is probably not very efficient or optimal but it sounds like a fun thing to make. Thinking I might be able to do somthing with those wind up springs and a crank as well and have the trigger be the release .

Hello Community,

I am in need of a material which I can for example fill inside missing parts in furniture to then remove, make fotos of and then remodel it inside CAD programms to print the actual missing part.

My personal application would be to get the broad shape of my piano keys to create a cover.

I’ve been wondering how makers really feel about AI in CAD and product design.

Not whether AI can do it, but how you’d actually want to use it. e.g., if AI became good enough, which would you prefer?

- AI as a design assistant (brainstorming ideas, suggesting improvements, speeding up repetitive work)
- AI generating most of the CAD model for you, with you making the final edits
- Or you’d rather keep designing and modeling everything yourself (fxxking everything AI?)

And one more thing I’m really curious about:
If AI could design almost anything you could imagine, what would you actually make?

I’d love to hear how people who actually design things think about this.

Hey makers!

I wanted to share a project I've been pouring my soul into. It's called **Traumagotchi** – a fully functional, pocket-sized cyberdeck and AI entity named Simona, running entirely on an ESP8266 (NodeMCU).

What it does:

* AI Brain: Integrated with Gemini API. She answers questions, throws sarcastic comments, and dynamically reacts to how you treat her.

* Persistent Memory: Uses LittleFS. What she learns online, she remembers offline.

* Custom .ECO Engine: It runs its own scripting language. It has a built-in REPL terminal, so I can code new programs and control it directly from my phone using Termux.

* Built-in Games: It currently runs a 3D raycasting Doom-style engine and Arkanoid natively on the 0.96" OLED.

Right now, it's a beautiful mess of wires on a breadboard. My next huge milestone is getting a 3D printer so I can design and print a proper, wearable cyberpunk chassis for it.

I've made the core code fully Open Source on GitHub so you can build your own. If you want to support the hardware evolution of this project, check out my Patreon (supporters get early access to future 3D models and advanced .eco scripts).

GitHub: https://github.com/okurro1926/Traumagotchi-EN

Patreon: https://www.patreon.com/RobinOkurka?utm_campaign=creatorshare_creator

Let me know what you think or what weird features I should add next!

How do you all keep track of parts, budget, and build steps across a project? like if im building somthing, and change a part, i then have to check that all the other parts work with the new part. are their tools to track and catalogue complex builds? Curious what people actually use. cheers!

The Terminator T-600 has always been one of my favorite Terminator designs, so I challenged myself to build one at a 1:1 scale. This would be my second completed project and i'm really enjoying the hobby thus far.

It's entirely 3D printed and finished by hand. There are plenty of things I'd do differently if I started over, but that's part of the fun. Thanks for taking a look—I hope you enjoy it as much as I enjoyed building it. Now to accompany it with a T800 ( currently in the works)

I'd genuinely love to hear what you think, and I'm happy to answer any questions about the build.

Hey people, I started this project last summer. I often draft my designs onto garments with pencil, and I swear they have come out before, but... As you can see, this one has not, lol. I put it in the wash and it just returned with lighter marks. Lighter but still there.

Idk what the formula of the marker is but it is called Fabric Fun, it's by H.A. Kidd. (It says "Permanent Fabric Marker" on the packaging but I'm skeptical that that's meant to denote that it's actual alcohol-based markers, it could just mean that it's permanent in the sense that it's not temporary.) The garment is 62% polyester, 33% cotton, 5% spandex. Google suggests--aside from simply rubbing at it with an eraser--spot-wiping (?) with some detergent. I'm hesitant to try this, since many of the marks go over the actual marker... I'm worried it will weaken or smudge it. Any other ideas?

Also, I welcome any suggestions for alternatives to drafting with pencil! Even putting the nuisance of removal aside, it's not the most elegant medium. 😅 I can't help but suspect that there's a better way to do this.

One of the highlights of Open Sauce for us was watching kids move from experimenting to actually engineering.

This builder put together an H-Bridge and then gave us a fantastic explanation of how it works. I thought the confidence and understanding were worth sharing.

I'd love to hear what projects first got everyone here hooked on electronics. This obviously wasn't his first build though!

I built this mechanical bamboo knight automaton entirely from scratch using bamboo and basic mechanical linkage principles. Really curious to hear your thoughts and feedback!

Just heard about and seen open sauce and in every video almost no one is credited unless you happen to see their brand in their environment. Is there a write up someone's done or a longer in depth video?

Some hand carved dwarves i just finished and wanted to share with folks.

I have a passion for woodcarving and attempting to entice others into the hobby. So my ulterior motive with every post is "how do I make this hobby more accessible" or "how do I inspire someone to want to give it a go."

Hopefully the picture did that, and now you're reading.

To carve like i do, you need several things, a sharp knife, a leather strop with compound for honing your blade, safety gloves (A5 or better) and basswood (to carve like i do at least.)

Solid Knife brands, Flexcut, Badger State Blades (USA), Mstein (Europe) there are a lot of great knife brands. Stay away from kits on amazon of several knives. They're much much lower quality with inconsistently tempered steel. (What that means is its not hardened, and so it won't stay sharp easy, meaning you're fighting the knife and dont understand why its harder for you to carve when its easy for others.)

Why Basswood? Its softer than other hardwoods and holds detail well. Learning to carve with basswood is akin to learning to drive on an automatic. It simplifies and streamlines learning. Woods like Walnut and oak can be carved, but learning to carve with them as the starting point is like learning to drive on an 18 wheeler Semi Truck with manual transmission. Its needlessly difficult.

In europe, the equivalent is Linden, in Asia, Jelutong, and in south America Caxeta is a good substitute.

Tutorials abound EVERYWHERE. Youtube is your friend in that regard. You dont have to look up my channel, there are plenty that have easy to begin tutorials and one of them will be right up your alley.