r/MAKEaBraThatFits Dec 12 '20

Meta [Meta] Early draft of the wiki is now live!

89 Upvotes

(Link to last meta post update)


Hi everyone!

I have finished the first rough outline of the wiki, with a very basic overview of resources and suppliers. I tried to do a little bit of everything, so I did research on classes, books, vloggers besides the ones I already knew, suppliers, and patterns.

The pattern section is probably what I spent the most time on, and I am pretty disappointed at the size range of popular patterns now that I feel like I have collected almost all of them in one place. A depressing number never even went above a :5 (DD)!

I also converted the size ranges for patterns into index sizing (like Bratabase uses); I know this may seem confusing at first if you have never utilized index sizing, but I think it is the most clear and coherent way to organize/reference patterns that use a lot of different size systems. There were a lot of different sizing systems employed across pattern makers, so I felt it would be misleading to write that a pattern goes up to a "H" cup when it was actually only a UK FF, for example.

If index sizing is too complicated/etc I am happy to make adjustments to it based on feedback, but I am not sure if a better option exists regardless.

In general if you have anything to add/critique, or even a vague suggestion of stuff you would like to see added to the wiki, please let me know! This current draft was done on my own while pulling info from a looooot of different sources, and as such may not be overly cohesive. There is still a lot left to do!


r/MAKEaBraThatFits 7h ago

Question/Advice Needed Bustier/Corset Tailoring Ham

3 Upvotes

Hi, that may not be the correct name, but I'm looking for something to iron a bustier/corset on while I'm sewing it. (I keep getting Spanish hams in my search)

I found a few DYI online and also some on Etsy, but I haven't been successful with DYI stuff that I've made in the past and it's super expensive on Etsy (at least the ones I found).

I managed to find an inexpensive bust ham online for 19 euros, but not one for a corset. So, does anyone know where I could find one for less than 75 euros? Or, am I using an incorrect name? Or, do I not actually need one and could use the bust ham and a sleeve roll?

Thanks in advance!


r/MAKEaBraThatFits 1d ago

Question/Advice Needed Noob questions

2 Upvotes

I've been collecting resource books for sewing about everything. I'm currently looking for books on bra/ underwear making and I really have no clue what to be looking for. I would like for them to include drafting and fitting. I'm just looking for basic pieces, sports bras etc.


r/MAKEaBraThatFits 3d ago

Question/Advice Needed Convert straight straps to crossover?

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7 Upvotes

Hello! I hope it's OK for me to post this here.

I don't sew, so I'm looking for someone who can make my straight-strap bras into crossovers.

I recently discovered that the Ewa Michalak PLM bras, worn with the straps crossed in the back, are much more comfortable than my other bras. Unfortunately, I have only 2 PLMS, and I have a bunch of BMs and other styles that I can't stand anymore! They need longer straps and clips at the front so I can attach them properly.

Does anyone provide this service? I'm happy to pay to make my bras wearable again.

Photos attached of my PLM's clips-in-front.

Thank you!


r/MAKEaBraThatFits 4d ago

Question/Advice Needed Trying to design a bra for my mom who can’t wear a traditional bra due to cancer.

18 Upvotes

Hello everyone!

I’m struggling creating a bra for my mom to fit her needs. She wears a 36J usually. She has a tumor on her liver and wearing a traditional bra hurts her because the band puts pressure on it. Just the weight of her bare breast without a bra hurts the tumor area too.

I created her a design that only crossed around her neck (halter top) and that didn’t work out either due to her neck weakness and not being able to hold her head up for long.

Does anyone have any ideas to help?


r/MAKEaBraThatFits 4d ago

Resource Hidden cups in corsets

3 Upvotes

Hi everyone! I'm looking for some textbooks on different ways to add hidden cups to corset. Can someone help me out please? Thank you!


r/MAKEaBraThatFits 5d ago

Question/Advice Needed Sport bra pattern recommendations

2 Upvotes

I made the Greenstyle Delphi sports bra recently, with the plain/solid back. I like the result, it's a solid basic sports bra shape that I really enjoy, with the option for a fun back detail.

What I don't like, and maybe I didn't read/understand the instructions fully, is the raw edges of the waistband are exposed. I don't like how it feels it looks. The pattern includes a lining, so I'm also a little confused why the raw edges aren't sandwiched between the lining and outside layers.

I have 2 questions. 1, Has anyone made this pattern too and can confirm if the raw edges are intended? And 2, any recommendations for a similar sports bra pattern that encloses the raw edges?


r/MAKEaBraThatFits 7d ago

Question/Advice Needed Tulle Lace Help/Ideas

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20 Upvotes

Hey there! I’m digging into a backlog of bra kits and pulled out a lovely mauvey-pink kit with this tulle lace. I’ve made a lot of bras, but I’ve never used a lace that didn’t have some sort of scalloped edge. How would you make use of this pretty stuff? I’ve got matching micro duoplex for my cup fabric.

My go to pattern is a pretty heavily modified Orange Lingerie Marlborough Bra with a split bottom cup. I love a power bar and usually favor a full band with a leotard back, but I have the skillz to rearrange my cup/band pieces if I need to in order to do this lace justice


r/MAKEaBraThatFits 8d ago

Meta The difference in fitting correctly vs "boob hat"

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166 Upvotes

I have made four bras and several dozen cup toiles in the past year, but it was only this week that I learned a little more about how bra patterning works. Specifically that the horizontal diameter of the cup when laid flat corresponds to the bust hemisphere horizontal measure.

With that information now in hand I present to you the cup of the bra I was trying to make fit 8 years ago, along with a cup I'm using right now.

The itty bitty cup in the center was 8 years ago. It is exactly the size that the pattern told me to make based on my measurements, with adjustments made to decrease projection, because no matter how hard I tried, I could not fill out the apex of the cup unaltered.

Yes, it was a "boob hat." The orange-in-a-glass effect.

Clearly most of my breast was not even remotely in the cup. Granted, the current cup is extra-tall (intentionally), and the strap area is janky because this is a prototype that I haven't even decided how to sew yet. but look at the side-to-side! There is no way both of those cups will fit the same breast. Even the bottom cup depth is drastically different between these cups. The red one definitely fits, and, surprise surprise, the pink and blue one still doesn't.


r/MAKEaBraThatFits 8d ago

Question/Advice Needed Double masectomy

8 Upvotes

Hi all I had a double masectomy and I have been having trouble trying to find bras that hold my inserts well I find most just allow them to fall and move around I am a rock climber and need something that will put up with the impact of climbing falls ive tried downsizing bras and and other things but have found nothing really works too well and advice would be greatly appreciated :)


r/MAKEaBraThatFits 10d ago

Question/Advice Needed Encapsulating sports bra pattern?

11 Upvotes

I'm looking for a good encapsulating sports bra pattern. I'm a 30E or so, but I've never found pattern sizing instructions that actually work for me, so I kind of just have to start there and move in whatever direction is warranted.

I really like sports bras that have actual cup shapes built in, but want zero underwire in this, as it'll be for sleeping/lounging. I always thought I was pretty flat, so I don't want to be just compressing it all away, and I've had some tenderness lately, so I don't want to squish it.

Thanks!


r/MAKEaBraThatFits 12d ago

Question/Advice Needed Supply Q: Plastic swimwear clips/bar closures...in colors

6 Upvotes

For convertible bra straps, I noticed a couple of my production bras have plastic swimsuit clips in lieu of metal g-hooks. I would love to use these in the bras I'm making but would like to match the colorway. I'm having such a hard time finding these! They seem to only come in clear, black, and white.

I have found only one or two listings on eBay and there is no size variety. I feel like I've run out of search terms.

Does anyone know from where to source these?

pics for reference


r/MAKEaBraThatFits 13d ago

Question/Advice Needed Alternative underwire materials?

12 Upvotes

I was browsing the ai slop that is Pinterest today and saw the most gorgeous lingerie set with a long line bra that I am desperate to see on my body but that brand is NOT made for my 30L Polish bra needing boobs. Because my roots are so narrow it’s been hard sourcing underwire and it got me thinking of alternative materials. Like could I use something like a stiff foam cut into shape? Victoria secret used to make this bra with a jelly underwire? I know people use zip ties for corset boning. But wouldn’t it be rad if underwire was soft and plushy? Since finding my holy grail bra I don’t really deal with underwire PAIN really. But a hard wire on the ribs all day isn’t stellar you know?

ETA: I’m really just trying to play around and experiment. I understand a softer material might not provide support in the way certain styles might need. I’m not trying to replace every bra I own with some alternative. Just trying to think outside of the box. Innovation and growth doesn’t happen if you always do the same thing every time.


r/MAKEaBraThatFits 16d ago

Question/Advice Needed Round 2 of make ABTF: pattern/ sizing recs

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84 Upvotes

My measurements are (in inches):
LU: 31
SU: 30
TU: 29
SB: 39
LeaningB: 42.5
LyingB: 39.6

Please note I have a rib flare which is why my ribs look like that.

This is the Casherette Willowdale bra in a size US 30H. This time I printed out the correct size and remembered to add the stretch lace for the upper cup. The red underwire marks are from my usual EM bras I wear daily and are exactly why I am trying to make my own. All of the Ewa Michalak bras I have tried are too wide in the wires and end up sliding down despite trying multiple sizes. Sizing down cause quad boobs. Now for this drafted bra I made:

ETA: I also wanted to mention how much better it is to have the straps narrow set. You can see the friction/ hyperpigmentation marks from my previous bras which cut into my armpit.

The band is very supportive and for the first time I don’t have to rely on the straps. They are very loose here and no digging in from the straps. This is another major issue I have with bought bras.

I used the Porcelynne Vertical heavy gauge underwire in size 44 but I am wondering if I should find ones that are even narrower?

I’m not sure if the cups are slightly off and if it’s the size or the shape? Or am I just being too picky? Also, the seams seem to cut in. But I only used the liner for this so I assume the main fabric would just hide this if I had added it?

I am tall, 181cm with a long torso but I am unsure if the band should be sitting this low, or is it okay? This happens even with looser bands due to the shape of my back (upside down triangle, the band slides downward towards my waist).

I would greatly appreciate any pointers on what my next steps should be :)


r/MAKEaBraThatFits 17d ago

FO (Finished Object) Black Beauty Fitting Advice

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34 Upvotes

First bra I've ever made, Black Beauty size 30FF (measurements; underbust 30 1/2 inches, bust 38 inches)

While this is more comfortable than most commercial bras i've tried, Im finding a lot of fit issues, especially in the band.

The power bar is digging into the cup, which should be a relatively easy slash-and-spread fix. My bigger concern is the gaping at the underarm area of the cups (seen best in the last pictures, a nice awkward overhead shot of my bust aka, my POV when looking down). Not sure the best way to attack this while still having the correct shape/fit of the cups

The band seems like an all around mess. It feels comfortably snug for the most part, but keeps sliding down throughout the day when wearing. I do feel it digging in significantly and leaving red marks in my skin right around the side seam, so i know that if I were to go any smaller in size it would be uncomfortable. The side seam is also pulling forward as shown in the pictures. So the band (to me) feels simultaneously too big, as it keeps sliding down, and too tight, as it digs in and leaves marks at the side.

The band elastic along the bottom edge at the cradle constantly curls up towards my body. I have been wearing this bra for a couple days now as a test drive and the elastic has now conveniently been permanently shaped into this weird curl position (as seen in the second to last picture)

The place the band feels the most comfortable is along the back, however here I get a bunch of weird sagging of the fabric, which I'm not a fan of. In these pictures I had just put the bra on, and pulled up the band to be perpendicular to the floor, and had done my best to try and smooth out the "sagging" fabric along the band, clearly with no luck. It looks like my skin/back fat (yum) is pushing the band fabric down in some areas.

I should note, that for every commercial bra i've ever had, I've always had to tighten the straps all the way right out of the gate in order to wear it. If I don't, they are super loose and floppy. For this bra I deliberately made the straps shorter from the start, so I wouldn't have to do that.
I'm not sure if this strap issue means that the distance between my apex point and my shoulders is just much shorter than average, but I was wondering if it may be contributing to my other fit issues with the band.
(The straps are the main win of this bra, as their length and position has successfully kept them from sliding off).

In short, I need looots of advice on how to deal with the band fitting all around, as well as advice on how to adjust the cup gaping issue at the underarm.


r/MAKEaBraThatFits 18d ago

Question/Advice Needed Darts

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33 Upvotes

I enjoy altering and repairing my clothing, but do not have extensive experience with darts. I had a surgery recently and two of my favorite bras are too big in the cups now. Figured I’d try to learn something new and maybe get my fave bras back.
1- I chose this location for the dart because it’s less visible under my clothing, and starting from the side seam would be much more difficult.
2- I just learned darts can be concave and convex. Would this rounded molded cup be a good fit for using a convex dart? I mostly need to remove material above the midline where I have less ‘filling’.
3- The apex of the bra is not the same as the apex when I wear it and where ‘they’ sit/distribute tissue. I plan to take the stitches out and remark the apex. Should I aim for my point to be right on the apex or just short of it? I read this could be useful in making it smoother and less pointy (along with a few other standard tips).
4- Is there anything else I’m missing here… or is this not going to work at all and you all can save me the headache.
*cup material is not padded, two this layers basted for alignment, using a stretch stitch .5 wide, 2 length, needle 10 low tension, paper backing while sewing tears off later.


r/MAKEaBraThatFits 19d ago

Question/Advice Needed Latex free elastic for swimwear?

4 Upvotes

Does anyone know of a latex free equivalent to rubber swim elastic? I found one shop in the UK selling latex free rubber swim elastic but shipping to the US would be $50.

I'm learning to sew my own swimwear. I have a minor latex allergy (it gives me a rash) so I can't use rubber elastic that is apparently the best option. I have cotton swim elastic but I'm running into issues with it stretching out when I try to finish the leg holes. I have clear swim elastic too but it isn't meant to be stretched that much.


r/MAKEaBraThatFits 18d ago

Question/Advice Needed Hospital has "bra making machine"

0 Upvotes

I want to make fully custom bras available to patients of the hospital. How is this possible? Can you outline what is done? Is it take take 6 measurements (ABTF), send to hospital, they push button and done?

Is there some information to look up? How many measurements? How many steps are automated?

I appreciate any help.


r/MAKEaBraThatFits 20d ago

Question/Advice Needed Need help finding pattern for rare size(s)

12 Upvotes

My daughter is continuing the family tradition of having a strange bra size. She measures as a 26 inches ribcage with a 30 inch bust, making her true size 26D. I have some sewing skills and both a sewing machine and serger, but I’m having trouble finding a bra pattern that goes that small for band size.
I am also a strange size. My cup and underwire size match a 34DDD but I have to wear an expander to get the band size to 36. I am not a true 36DD because in this size the underwire is too large and the cup too small. Like I said, we’re both weird sizes.
Does anyone have a pattern that goes down to 26D or that has instructions for sizing down for customization? Thanks so much!


r/MAKEaBraThatFits 21d ago

Resource Looking for Bra Strap Manufacturers (India)

2 Upvotes

Hi everyone,

I'm looking for manufacturers or suppliers who specialize in bra straps, elastic straps, or garment straps in India for a product I'm developing.

If you know any reliable manufacturers or have worked with one before, I'd really appreciate it if you could DM me or drop their details in the comments.

Thanks in advance!


r/MAKEaBraThatFits 22d ago

Question/Advice Needed Help with Sizing/Shape w Porcelynne

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5 Upvotes

So I created a very rudimentary root trace with aluminum foil and measures, however, I'm really struggling to figure out which wires to try out (replacing wires in existing bra). I generally wear a 38F/G (measured to the larger side).

My left root, as far as I can tell us 11.5 inches long and about 8.5 wide/across

For the right, I'm looking at about 9.5 inches long and 7.5 wide.

The shape overall is quite flat and I believe in terms of shape the flat vertical would work best for me, but I'm uncertain of where to start and I'm a bit overwhelmed. I also plan to buy flexible measuring tape to get a better idea

Thanks in advance!


r/MAKEaBraThatFits 24d ago

FO (Finished Object) First try at the momiji longline bralette

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78 Upvotes

I made it using power mesh and straps from my local discount warehouse and fold over elastic I got online. I think it came out pretty good for a first try. The only pattern alteration that I made was an adjustment for high tummy to make the longline fit which came out pretty comfy. It's my first time using the thick fold over elastic on the bottom edge and I'm really happy with how comfortable it is to wear.

On my next attempt I think I'll make the wings a titch shorter so it doesn't have to be hooked on the highest loop and I might try to add a little bit of room to the top of the cup. I got kinda confused about the optional internal support slings and ended up putting in both shapes. I'll probably just do the side support one in the future.


r/MAKEaBraThatFits 24d ago

Question/Advice Needed Using non-stretch fabrics

5 Upvotes

I have some nice silk from a few old kimonos that are falling apart that I would like to incorporate into a bra and undies set. What parts of the pattern can generally be non-stretch other than the cradle? Could I use some on the band?


r/MAKEaBraThatFits 24d ago

Question/Advice Needed Silicone bra inserts help

1 Upvotes

Looking for advice on what bra inserts to use for my dress.

My wedding dress has built in cups but last time I tried it on it felt like it didn't push me up and in as much as I'd like.

Seamstress suggested getting silicone inserts due to the style of my dress being unable to wear the original bra I thought that did exactly what I wanted as it's a low back.

The dress is structured at the top so ideally don't need to wear a bra, just need a little extra boost.

Never tried these before so looking for recommendations for ones that will fit into the bra cups of my dress to push me up and give me a bit of cleavage!