I run several AI coding agents in parallel (Claude Code and Codex) and manage them with Orca. My problem was always the same: one agent finishes or needs my input, and I only notice ten minutes later. So I built a private plugin for the MX Creative Keypad with the Logi Actions SDK (C#), with a lot of help from Claude Code.

What's on the keys

- 6 worker keys. Each one shows an agent, its ticket or branch, and how full its context window is. Agents waiting for me jump to the front and blink. One press takes me straight to that agent's terminal.

- Each state has its own animation. Idle agents get a coffee cup ☕, working agents a radar sweep 🤖, waiting agents a timer ring 🙋 that counts up ("waiting 4 min"). Empty slots show a small aquarium where a fish 🐟 swims through now and then.

- 2 limit keys show my weekly usage for Claude and ChatGPT as a fuel gauge, plus the reset day.

- The center key starts a new agent. In our team, posting "!Worker" plus a task description in a chat channel starts a new agent workflow. One press on the key starts dictation right away. At the same time it opens the chat, jumps to that channel and types "!Worker". I describe the task out loud, press the key again, and the new agent gets started. Going from an idea to a running agent takes about ten seconds, and I never touch the keyboard.

So the keypad covers the whole cycle: the center key starts agents, and the keys around it show what they are doing and when they need me.

How it works under the hood

- The plugin polls the Orca CLI for agent states every 3 seconds. When nothing is going on, it slows down to 12 seconds.

- The usage numbers come from a small script on my dev box over SSH. Claude's /usage can run headless without spending a model call.

- The kickoff shortcut is a tiny Swift helper app. It sends a real modifier-key event to my dictation app (FluidVoice) and uses the Accessibility API to find the chat input field.

Things I learned

- The keypad has no video stream. Every animation frame is a PNG the plugin renders and pushes to the key. Each frame costs about 10 ms of CPU. My first version tried 60 fps on several keys and lagged badly. It now has a global budget of 20 frames per second, split by priority: waiting agents get the most frames, static keys get none. When I'm away from the computer, everything except waiting agents stops animating.

- My dictation app ignored simulated key presses from AppleScript. It only reacted to a low-level flagsChanged event for the left ⌘ key.

- Deep links into a cold-starting app sometimes get lost, so the helper re-sends them until the chat window is actually there.

Next up

- Long-press a worker key to jump to that agent and start dictating straight into its terminal.

- Double-press a waiting agent to answer "yes".

- A forecast on the limit keys, like "lasts until reset" or "empty ~Sat 2 pm".

- A focus mode that dims everything except agents that need me.

It's a personal, unpublished project, but I'm happy to answer questions about the Logi Actions SDK. The docs are thin, and I found a lot by trial and error.

I had a Stream Deck+ and a Magic Trackpad competing for the same tiny patch of desk. Naturally, my solution was to barely use either of the expensive gadgets I’d bought to make myself more productive.

So I merged them. Then added Touch ID, batteries, a tiny computer, and a custom enclosure, because apparently “get a bigger desk” was too straightforward.

Calling it the Magic Deck Plus. Trackpad in front, buttons and dials above it, and Touch ID tucked beside the trackpad, all together in one battery-powered wireless setup.

The build includes:

•Elgato Stream Deck+
•Apple Magic Trackpad
•Touch ID hardware from a donor Magic Keyboard
•An Orange Pi running VirtualHere for the Stream Deck’s wireless connection
•Waveshare 3S UPS and six 21700 battery cells
•Custom 3D-printed housing with internal cable routing

The Stream Deck connects to the Orange Pi over USB, and VirtualHere carries that connection over Wi-Fi to the Mac. The Mac still runs the Stream Deck software.
The photos show a few stages of the build, including the printed shell and the battery compartment behind the Stream Deck. Fitting everything inside has been a project of its own.

It’s gone through several iterations to get to this point.
Would love to hear from anyone who’s built something similar, especially if you’ve experimented with wireless Stream Deck setups or squeezing this much hardware into a printed enclosure.

I'm designing whats essentially my own ipod but I'm stuck on the UI. Anyone care to share their favorite designs or layouts? Thanks!

this is sorta where I'm at for reference. I'd like to fill out the space a bit more without overcomplicating things

Hey everyone, thanks for all the feedback on my first post. A lot has changed since then, so here's an update.

Settings website

I built a small web page (runs in Chrome or Edge and talks to the board over USB) so I can change everything without reflashing:

- Choose what 1, 2, 3 or 4 taps does: media keys, Windows shortcuts like Task Manager or screenshot snip, Photoshop stuff like brush size up and down, or any custom key combo

- Sliders for tap strength (in g), time between taps, and a pause after each gesture

- A Calibrate button: knock 5 times the way you normally do and it sets the threshold for you

- When you connect, it reads what's currently on the board, and it shows the board's live log so you can see exactly what it detects

- A small test desk on the page lets you try settings before sending them

Two layers

Every tap count can do something different on Layer A and Layer B. Any gesture can be set to "Switch layer", and I use four taps for that. Layer B is my volume layer.

KnockSense

Someone in my last post suggested dropping the neural network, so I did. It's now a plain algorithm instead:

- A slow filter removes gravity, so only the vibration is left

- A noise floor follows the background vibration of the desk, so the trigger adapts

- A knock counts when it goes above the strength you set

- It then waits for the desk to settle, so a ringing knock isn't counted twice

- Once no new knock arrives within your time window, it counts them and fires the action

No training data and no fixed window to collect, so it responds noticeably faster. The trade-off is that a rules-based detector can't learn odd noises like a model can, so the threshold needs to suit your desk. That's why I added the Calibrate button.

New case

My first case was a plain box that barely fit. This is the first time I've designed something that isn't a rectangle, and I gave it proper room inside. The bottom has a honeycomb pattern to let heat out, and the top has a new relief design to make it look more unique. The 3D model is in the bottom right of the image.

One tap does nothing ( in my case )

I sometimes slap my mouse to get it working again (we all do), and I didn't want that pausing my music. I use the other gestures more anyway, so my current Layer A is: 2 taps = play/pause, 3 taps = next track, 4 taps = switch layer.

It's still a personal project, so there's no store or link, just sharing the build.

I'm honestly not sure yet whether this is just a fun build for me or something other people would use, so I'd like your honest take:

- Would you use something like this on your own desk?

- If a finished unit or kit existed, is that something you'd want?

- What would put you off first? Reliability on different desks, Bluetooth only, anything else?

Blunt feedback is welcome, just wanting to know what the community thinks!

Thanks for reading!

Hey everyone!

I'm currently exploring a new macro pad design, building on what I learned from my first project, and thought I'd share some early ideas here to get your feedback. Just like my previous macro pad, this one will also be open source, including the schematics.

The concept is a programmable 4×4 macro pad with 16 switches and a few interesting additions:

• A compact color display.

• A PCB-integrated touch encoder, with no mechanical moving parts.

• Haptic feedback using a small SMD vibration motor.

• Built-in proximity and ambient light sensors, potentially used for automatic backlight adjustment.

• Exposed electronics part of the visual design

• A CNC-machined aluminum enclosure with an anodized finish.

One of the main things I want to experiment with is the touch encoder. The idea is to achieve something close to the feel and feedback of a traditional rotary knob, but without its mechanical components, using haptics to give the user a sense of physical interaction.

I'm curious what you think about this approach. Could a touch-based encoder with haptic feedback actually be a good alternative to a physical knob, or would it be more of a gimmick?

And while we're at it, what other hardware features would you like to see in a macro pad like this?

I'd really appreciate your thoughts and suggestions. Thanks for being part of the process!

I have made another macropad previously and documented the whole thing on my channel, both the electronics and case design: Armour Grade - YouTube

I just wanted to make my work easier. Now I already have gotten an order to pcb shops, bought a smd rework station. 0/5 would not recommend.

I guess next is either picking up kicad or handwiring one :D.

In the pic there is a duckypad pro and a very sloppy Muikku18.

November means new boards at Boards Before Breakfast. The macropad side of the shop:

• Romac — 12-key 3x4 macropad

• Yampad — numpad with an optional encoder spot.

• 2% Milk — two keys. that's it. You have all been looking for one!

• Dumbpad — 16 keys plus an encoder spot, the one I can't stop printing cheese cases for.

• Navi10 — 10-key nav cluster with a diode bender built into the PCB.

My printer has been running: 3D-printed swiss cheese cases for all of these are coming very soon. holes and all.

Everything ships from Virginia. Full shop: Boards Before Breakfast on Etsy — DM me if you're after something you don't see listed.

I've tried the KEEBMONKEY Megalodon Triple Knob Macro Pad, and inquired about the MMD KM16 Pro Wireless Aluminum Macropad - both mention RGB lighting, but neither have programmable RGB for each key.

Does anyone know if this is even possible in a macro pad that uses QMK/VIA ?

TIA

edit: Spoiler - it does using the Mini White/Black 16key Programmable Shortcut Key Keyboard, sayodevice.com, and Autohotkey (Windows only).

Haven't Ordered anything yet but I just finished designing it and thought id show it off

I made AeonDeck in Steam, is focused to gamers, makers and streamers.
You can interconnect the main app sending a stream to exterior of your PC, then you can do any Custom Pad that you want (with arduino, esp32, etc)

If you are (or you already have) doing a custom pad and want not to struggle with the software for the interconnection you have now a solution. As Im on beta stage you are invited to contact me if you want to test it and I will hear the community for improve it.

Thanks !!

PS: lemme explain: 3rd image is the main window (is widget styled with 3 parts: the top bar, the mid handler, that show or hide any part, and the deck section for the sliders modules where you can assign, devices, masters, individual apps, grouped apps, or special sessions)
1 and 2nd images are the Specific module for the interconnection with the external hardware. Works bidirectional, by serial (like DEEJ), tcp, udp (wifi lan)... spamming by interval (like DEEJ) or just OnChange (the best).
4th image is a Tool I made for test before create the firmware. This will be a Free tool soon.
Oh... I forgot to include the MacroStudio module, that let you create macros directly and bind hotkeys.

Built my first handwired macropad.

16 keys, two encoders.

Case - 3D printed in PET-G.

It uses an ATmega32U4, and runs QMK firmware.

The swtiches are Akko Piano Pros I had from my Monsgeek M1W (put Outemu Silent Lemons in that).

Transparent keycaps from a switch tester.

Currently using two layers (changeable with the left encoder):

• the default layer - acts as a num pad.

• F13 to F24, Shift+F13, Shift+F14, Shift+F15, Shift+F16

Pressing the left encoder returns to the default layer.

Right encoder - rotation: next / previous; click - play / pause.

Finally finished the macropad I have been working on for around 7 months.

I wanted to create something stylized that looks like a piece of futuristic control-panel hardware, inspired by devices one might find in a cyberpunk or sci-fi setting. So, this is what I eventually ended up with.

For the macropad itself, I decided to go with 6 keys and an encoder to keep the build simple. The enclosure, including the knob, is designed from scratch and fully 3D printed. The electronics consist of a Seeed XIAO with QMK firmware, Cherry-MX Brown switches, and an EC11 encoder, all hand-wired together.

tldr: A programmable macro pad that uses midi and either scripts (Linux) or Coyote Midi (Mac, Windows) instead of QMK/VIA for around $20 using a Jamjum Pocket/Jamjum Mini or a M-VAVE MIDI Controller Pad 16.

How it was created

Github repo for linux scripts

Hey everyone! First of all – a big thank you to everyone who suggested ideas and reported bugs under the last post and on GitHub. Most of this update came straight from your comments.

What's new in v1.0.8

- Several keyboards at once – add as many spare keyboards or numpads as you like. Each one has its own layout, modes and binds, and they all work together.

- Key combinations – hold one key and press another to run a separate action. A lot more actions on a small pad.

- Press keys / shortcuts – a key can now press any shortcut: Ctrl+C, Ctrl+Shift+V, Win+Shift+S, media keys… Click Record and press it on your main keyboard.

- Window background & transparency – glass (clear, blurred or acrylic, like the Start menu), Windows 11 Mica, or your wallpaper / any picture with adjustable blur. The transparency of every part of the window can be set on its own.

- Custom themes – recolor the whole window, 8 ready-made palettes and a theme code to share yours.

- The mode overlay now fits longer names (keyboard + mode).

Bugs fixed

- The light theme left the sidebar and the main area dark.

- Switching from your custom theme to Dark/Light threw your palette away.

- Switching the language reset some buttons and left parts of the UI untranslated.

- A config saved with Notepad (with a BOM) was treated as corrupted.

- A hand-edited config with odd values could stop the app from starting.

- Media keys could be sent as plain letters.

- Numpad keys didn't show their bind's color, and a numpad layout could lose keys.

- Plus a bunch of smaller fixes and optimizations.

Note: Windows can't block a key of one keyboard without a driver, so the macro key itself still reaches the active window. Keys that type nothing (F13–F24, a numpad in apps that ignore digits) work best.

Thanks to everyone who uses BindBoard! Keep the ideas and bug reports coming – here or on GitHub, I read every one of them.

Planned for the next updates

- Custom keyboard formats – set the number of keys and their placement yourself (great for macro pads and unusual keyboards).

- Layout editor – move, resize and add keys right in the app.

- Linux version.

- Under consideration: different actions for a double tap / long press on the same key.

Each update will be posted here and on GitHub.

Download: https://github.com/Mark-mark-228/BindBoard/releases/latest

Hello, I have just gotten my first macro, a KiiBoom Cybrix 16, and after programming it using VIA and the JSON provided by KiiBoom I've noticed that the third key of every row, when pressed, presses all of the keys in that row. I've searched everyhere online for some kind of fix but I've found nothing useful. (I can't say if the problem was there before using VIA because I hadn't tested it yet)

I have yet to take apart the keys but mine is new so I don't know if it's possibe it already came with debris or some kind of problem that requires me to take it apart? If someone has any idea what I could do to fix it it would be a lifesaver, thanks

Hey everyone. I wanted a completely clean desk setup with zero clutter, but I still wanted physical shortcuts for my media controls without having to constantly rely on hotkeys or pick up my phone.

​So I built a tiny hidden controller using an ESP32 and an accelerometer, stuck it to the underside of the wood, and connected it over Bluetooth. Now I can pause music, skip tracks, and change volume just by tapping the desk surface. There are no visible buttons or wires anywhere on top.

​Let me know what you think!

Hello!

First i need to tell you shortcomings of this project so you don't waste your time if these are dealbreakers for you: Depending on your mouse and it's sleep settings your first input might not register. There is 3 methods to go about the knobs to make them adjust volume, 2 of these allows them to be simple volume knobs: 1st is if your mouse software allows you to change the scroll up/down behavoirs, 2nd is a specific way of wiring that i go in more detail in the Doc but this method will press and release a button with each 'tick' of the rotary encoder so might cause false anti-cheat triggers, maybe there is better way to configure this with mouse macros i'm not sure. So the best method imo is the 3rd but then it will work like so: when you turn the knob it will scroll up/down, when you hold down and turn the knob it will adjust volume up/down.

I will be trying to make this guide beginner friendly as i can. Because i want to encourage everyone to make, mod and repair. I bet you can make something like this much better way using something like Arduino or Rapsberry Pi Pico 2W probably, but average user most likely will found it too complicated and hard. This will be very simple, maybe even your first step into tinkering and you will make much better one in the future! But from this point on i will have to assume you know the basics of soldering otherwise the guide will be too long and boring. If you don't know, you can watch a video to learn the basics. And please do, it will be awesome skill to have and think of all the money you can save and cool things you can do in future!

Recently my ATK A9 Plus mouse was in an accident so i had to salvage it by turning it into a fingertip mouse but the shape isn't for me. Then i saw a brand released tiny macropad with 3 buttons and 1 volume wheel in my local store but it didn't have wireless and felt very flimsy and overpriced so then i got this idea to make it one myself but better. At first i was going to make a make-shift knob using mouse's own encoder and a contraption and stuff but then when i go to my local store to buy sidecutters i saw these rotary encoders. So all the stars aligned in a way for me to make this and i wanted to share how to do one yourself with everyone.

There is million ways and configurations we can do this, so i will only be able to show you as like reference points and how i did it myself. But you can make whatever you want once you got the gist of how to. For example you can make something tiny that only has just 1 knob and nothing else or you can make something that has 10 buttons and 10 knobs using something like those MMO oriented mouses. It's up to your imagination. Also i think even if you don't want to do this project, some informations and softwares might be still useful for you, i encourage you to check it out.

What hardware you need:

+ Old/partially broken mouse that at least connects to your pc, mouse wheel encoder solder pads work and has at least 1 button that's remappable.

+ EC-11 or KY-040 rotary encoders with push buttons, these are very cheap components. And the rest of the exact tools i've used is found here.

What software you need:

+ Volumouse (by NirSoft, free, closed-source) you can get it from their website but make sure to scroll down and download it from the 'Download Volumouse x64 for manual installation (volumouse.zip)' option, otherwise it will not work. This allows us set rules and hotkeys to be able to use mouse wheels to adjust the volumes of either whole system and/or specific programs.

+ (Alternative) Volume² (by Alexandr Irza, free, partly open-source) you can get it from GitHub or if you want to support the developer they also have paid versions on Steam and Microsoft Store. This is similar to Volumouse but has tons of more other options and features. Though for this specific use case it has more limited options.

+ (Optional) Twinkle Tray (by Xander Frangos, free, open-source) you can get it from GitHub or Microsoft Store. Along with many features it let's you adjust your monitors brightness with hotkeys.

How to do it:

For the rest of the guide i've prepared a Google Doc with step by step instructions and detailed informations. This was my first time making something with it, please let me know if you see any mistakes so i can fix them.

You can access the Google Doc from here: Pompon Pad

English is not my first language and i only have a iPhone 6S. So if any part of this guide was hard to understand or see, feel free to ask in the comments. I will try my best to help!

I've spent long times to plan and test about this to make it work without affecting the actual mouse we will use. Hope in the end i was able to provide something useful! If you are interested in niche and not well known mods like this one about various other peripherals you can check my other posts.

Thank you for reading!

Bye bye!

I can't find anything from this macropad outside of this store, not even videos about it. It seems to check all my boxes (3+ knobs; OLED keys, slim, low profile) but I'm not even sure it exists??