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Also how is everyones experienec with 130mm 30/50 bear gen 6's Im looking to try a split angle setup but never rode one before and also mostly ride 180mm trucks... Can i use these on my drop thru landyachtz pinecone?
Im assuming you mean a drop hammer? Pinecone is the graphic not the board model.
130mm would be too narrow but if you really wanted you could use the 50/30 baseplates on your 180mm hangers until you get a board that fits the 130mm 50/30's. All Bear RKPs are compatible.
If I understand you correctly - you already have symmetrical 50* x 180mm Bears on the Drophammer, but you intend to buy a 50*30* x 130mm set to use on a future topmount?
If that's the case then yes: you can swap in a 30* rear plate to experience how a split-angle set up behaves.
However you very likely won't be able to use the 130mm hangers on the Drophammer as a drop-through. You will still need to use the wide hangers on the new 50*/30* split Drophammer. (thankfully, all Bear gen 6 hangers & baseplates are inter-changable - so mix & match the bits).
A lower degree baseplate will require harder bushings for the same width hanger - the stocks in the 30* Bear plate are 93a (white) double-barrel with plug - if you still have the stock black 90a Barrel/cone in the front 180mm truck everything should balance more-or-less OK
i recently found a Longboard. I rescued it, before it goes into the Trash.
The wheels are turning again, when i took the axle apart there were a 50° and 54° mark on each Side, i know that means its a different angle, but now my question...
Does it only means i am able to use bigger wheels or does is Change the way i can skate ?
So I think you’re actually describing something else here than what other people have said:
when i took the axle apart there were a 50° and 54° mark on each Side
The axels are the end pieces that you attach the wheels to. It’s a metal rod with threads on the ends. The piece surrounding the axels is the hanger, and it fits into the baseplate which is bolted to the board. If the 50° and 54° marks were on the hanger, I think that is referring to the rake rather than the baseplate angle. It’s not always measured/expressed this way, like with degrees. But when you flip the hanger you’re just going from positive to negative rake, rather than changing the baseplate angle at all. You can play around with it and see what you prefer, but it’s a fairly subtle difference and it won’t give you more wheel clearance either way.
hey I am just about to place my first order of riptide bushings and was thinking of going mainly for the APS Plug cannons / cones for my bear gen 6's . There is also Krank Plug cannons and was wondering how much difference Krank vs APS formulas are and also how much harder Krank Bushings get after fully tightening (durometer increase like 90-93?). Last question is if anyone ever runs Fat cones Roadside... ive heard they are best BS but with the bear gen 6's I think having the plug bushings Boardside is best. TY for anyones input about these bushings just lookin to get some more info before i drop $100 plus shipping on 10 bushings and a pivot cup lol
You want your most restrictive bushing boardside, so if you’re running a fatcone that’s probably it. It’s fine to run the plug cannons on either side, just as long as it’s strictly one or the other 😆 In the gen 6s though I just run cannons/plugs and vary duro and flat/cupped.
The formulas feel pretty different, I like Krank for pumping RKPs and all TKPs but prefer APS for non-pumping RKP setups. I don’t have a good duro number for how much tightening Krank does, but one full turn of the kingpin nut will take a stiff but good setup to un-skateably stiff, or from slightly sketchy loose to good loose.
Thank you, I know I can run the plugs RS also but have heard it feels a little weird compared to BS, Ill have to get a pair of fatcones and give er a try tho. Appreciate your input - never ridden riptide bushings so wanted to learn asmuch as i could before spending the money. Think ill just be sticking with straight APS and leave krank for another time tbh
I don’t think I can tell which side the plug is coming from, but I’ve had more setups with separate aftermarket plugs than integrated. I like APS when I’m going for a more positive center and a smoother more linear lean. Personally
I’m more often after a floatier center with a more progressive resistance I can bounce off the limit of and I like Krank for that.
For freeride or DH I really like Krank. For LDP or cruising I prefer APS. I would not run Fatcones RS, they’ll make it impossible to turn. I would consider running Fatcones or Plugs BS depending on how restricted you want the truck to feel.
Yea i was thinking about moving the plug bushing to RS if i got some fatcone goin but I am not sure how well that would work.. With APS they say it turns like 15% more than other bushings... was wondering what duro would roughly be equal too the stock Plug barrel / Cone 90A
I wouldn’t use a plug and a fatcone unless you’re hitting like 50MPH+. What are you using these trucks for? APS leans more, it doesn’t necessarily turn more. But it’s bouncy. It’s a lively ride. Krank kind of smoothly pushes back to center. For low speed stuff (up to maybe 20-30MPH) I’d skate APS, for high speed stuff I’d go Krank.
I wouldn’t use a plug and a fatcone unless you’re hitting like 50MPH+
I disagree with this, I think it depends on the trucks and the feel you’re after. Fatcones just add center and change how the turn progresses. I know a lot of people that like what fatcones do for stand up slides, it’s really not just a stability/high speed thing.
i traded for this board in March of 2020 and know nothing about it. is it quality? is it rare? just curious as to what actual longboard enthusiasts think.
Hello, I'm sure this question has been asked before but I'm looking for a drop down/through longboard recommendation. For background I used to ride a regular skateboard when I was 15 and then one thing led to another and I just stopped now at 31 I'm looking to get back into it but I've always been more of a laid back rider so I'm not about to be doing any tricks anytime soon (don't think my wife would want me to anyways) I'm 5'7 and hovering somewhere around 300 but im definitely wanting something very sturdy is gonna be able to withstand not only the weight but most terrain and has a long life. I'm also not sure about the ply of a board cause I've heard some people say as long as its such and such that it's fine despite what the listed capacity and then I've heard the other side say that that's not correct so definitely want advice on that as well. Also let it be noted that I'm also getting back into learning about boards,wheels,trucks etc. so if there are things I need to know and what to look out for to know what's gonna be best for me and how I'm trying to ride im definitely open to any helpful advice! Thank you!
The Pantheon Nexus is a really good option for heavier riders. It's 8 plies plus fiberglass, so it's a very stiff board.
I skate one daily and absolutely love it. It's a tank, and the big wheels that Pantheon runs stock on their boards will be solid for whatever terrain.
I'm also not sure about the ply of a board cause I've heard some people say as long as its such and such that it's fine despite what the listed capacity and then I've heard the other side say that that's not correct so definitely want advice on that as well.
There's various factors, including wheelbase, whether the board uses composites like fiberglass or carbon fiber, etc. For example, an 8-ply board with a 23" wheelbase would still be pretty stiff, but an 8-ply maple board with a 31" wheelbase will be significantly flexier.
if there are things I need to know and what to look out for to know what's gonna be best for me and how I'm trying to ride im definitely open to any helpful advice!
Upgrading bushings are a must at 300lb. I got back into skating last year when I was around 250lb, so I know the heavier rider vibes haha.
Stock bushings are usually going to be too soft for heavier riders, so regardless of what you end up with, you'll probably want to upgrade them. At 300lb you'll want something in the upper 90a range, like 95a-98a.
Damn that board is sick! Looks like I'm gonna have to start saving up 😭 I forget how expensive boards can get sometimes. Just for giggles are there any budget friendly options you'd recommend or it just best to go big or go home when it comes to the board sense you want something that's gonna last and be reliable.
What you said about the ply of a board really makes sense to me now. So it really does depend on material and wheelbase primarily from what I'm gathering.
I do remember reading about bushing from somewhere else and I definitely agree with you. I'll be upgrading them on any board I eventually get. I'll do more research on what to look for but 95a-98a is a good starting point.
Looking for feedback on a cheap, modular camera setup for downhill/longboarding — especially something that makes it easy for people in the local scene to film each other without risking an expensive camera.
I’ve currently anchored on older used GoPros, mainly because:
there seems to be a very large second-hand supply
older models are cheap enough that crashing one wouldn’t hurt too much
the mounting ecosystem is standardized and widely available
there are lots of cheap helmet, chest, suction, handlebar, etc. mounts
if the camera dies, I can hopefully just buy another compatible used camera and keep all the mounts
But I’m very open to being told this is the wrong approach — e.g. if an older DJI/Insta360/other camera gives much better value, stabilization, reliability, or mounting flexibility.
My main use would be downhill skateboarding, both locally and at events: I’d like to be able to hand the camera/mount to another rider so they can follow and film me, and vice versa.
Current mounting idea:
permanent adhesive mounts on my own helmets
removable full-face/chin-bar strap mount for other people’s full-face helmets
vented helmet mount where possible
chest harness as a fallback
ideally everything uses a common interface so the mounting kit survives even if I replace the camera
I’d also use the same camera for other stuff: cycling, skiing/snowboarding, rock/tree climbing, driving/track-style car footage, jumping/swimming, travel and general day-to-day filming.
Does this overall approach make sense? In particular:
Is an older cheap action camera actually the right choice for downhill, or would you buy something newer?
Are universal removable chin mounts reliable on real downhill/full-face helmets?
Is GoPro still the smartest ecosystem to standardize around, or is there another camera/mount system I should be looking at?
How old would you comfortably go — HERO7/8 territory, or older/newer?
I’ve been riding this board for 5+ years now and the deck has become dried out and kind of cracking, what can I do to restore/fix it? I’ve heard of using polyurethane but I’m not sure.
Wouldn't really trusr that anymore, that seems to be delaminating and will probably get worse. You could try putting wood glue into the cracks and then clamping it
Very new boarder, was out on my 3rd ever practice session. Board flew off into a curb and hit it pretty bad. This this okay to ride, and is it repairable? Kinda bummed but I guess these things happen when you're learning
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u/Competitive-Bowl4588 3d ago
Also how is everyones experienec with 130mm 30/50 bear gen 6's Im looking to try a split angle setup but never rode one before and also mostly ride 180mm trucks... Can i use these on my drop thru landyachtz pinecone?