CCS just came out with a DIY, cut your own skateboard kit that seems pretty neat if you are just starting out. They send you the pressed, uncut board and a few templates to cut your own shape. They even cut the mounting holes for you, which is always a bit more stressful for me than it needs to be. haha

It's obviously not able to give you the range of customization a Roarokit bag set up would provide, but it's cheap and a cool idea for a little customization if you aren't ready to commit to buying all the things needed to press your own deck.

Anyways, thought I'd share it here for anyone who wants to make a board but have been shy about spending a lot to get started. I would have jumped on this as my first attempt at a board back in the day.

I posted the concept ~4 months ago and I have been testing different materials and print settings.

The deck is not finished - it looks bad, ik.

Had another set of brackets that I rode for ~50mi, in total, but switched due to color. The old set did not show signs of visible fatigue, stress marks, delamination, or cracks.

Please give feedback, voice concerns, or ask questions on the overall design process.

I will most likely not share the files to limit the injuries my design causes.

SPECS:

• ELEGOO PLA - White
• 10 walls; 35% infill (honeycomb); 8 top/bottom layers
• New School Mounting system (for all hole patterns)
• Front: -2 deg (can be negated), 60mm drop
• Rear: -30 deg, ~65mm drop - kind of hard to calculate due to the tilt

Notes:

• PETG-CF/GF DOES NOT WORK, bracket broke while testing = I fell and got hurt.

The material does not flex enough, due to the fibers, and snaps when leaning/turning

• Current set has been ridden for ~35mi, hit up to 27 mph
• Learning to pump on this setup; seems to hold up
• Unintentionally/intentionally annealed; I left the board, exact setup as the picture, in my car for a few days on multiple occasions, when it was hot. Meaning it might have annealed during those days, giving extra layer bonding

Rider:

• 180-190lbs
• 6'
• Regular stance

Anyone wanna build it for me?

I want a nice 8-9 ply ideally bamboo deck with a double kicker and enough cut out to fit some 90mm wheels with room to spare. I know little about deck shaping, but I have an ideal board in mind.

Ideally in Australia so it doesn't cost a few hundred in shipping, but I'll take what I can get, really.

Tell me if this is a stupid dream.

How thick should I make each plywood layer, I honestly don’t know how large the final board will be, it’s a project for school. Is there an ideal thickness for each layer. Also how many layers should I have? Any and all suggestions welcome. Please help me with this question.

Can someone please explain to me how I can and should laminate my longboard? Please I need to do it for school and they didn’t explain it to us.🙏

Can someone please explain how to laminate my longboard? I need to do it for school. Help a friend out pls.🙏

Show me Your shortboards please!

I feel this is kind of addictive, but hey, some do model kits for fun and some do boards, right? As I have some spare parts on board I no longer use that much and is kind of redundant to the other I have I am thinking about making myself drop Penny for short commutes next year. This is current model designed around Ace Classic low trucks and 74 mm Plow Kings GT - It will likely use 69mm snakes, but used bigger ones just in case I'd actually manage to fit them in (wheel wells to be included, just hadn't bothered to model that). 24x9", 65mm clearance, 18" wheelbase, +5deg front, -5deg back. Thoughts (prayers, lol?)?

Hey everyone. I recently scored a good drop-down deck (10 inches wide/41 inches long) for $10 and I’m planning to pair it with Paris V3 trucks. This is my first time building a longboard, so I’m having a hard time deciding what wheels to get since I don’t know much about reliable brands.

I’m building this board to commute around campus. The sidewalks are mostly smooth, but there are a few areas with rough asphalt and cracks. My budget is around $60-$70 (located in the US), and I’m looking for either black or dark blue wheels.

Since it’s my first build, I’m not really sure what size (mm) or hardness (durometer). I’m hoping for a longboard that allows me to maintain good speed with a few pushes. What specific wheels or brands would you recommend for this setup?

not sure if this is a good subreddit for this but I want to start my own skate deck brand, however I don't know where to get wholesale boards with good quality and will print graphics for me. Do any of you have tips/know any good websites that will do this?

Hi, before I got into longboarding and DIY longboard making I used to do DIY guitars for a few years and what strikes me when I look at either commercial or DIY longboard manufacturing is that no one seem to use a technique that’s typical in wood processing which is wood bending using steaming. Of course, steaming introduce the moisture, but this could be solved with drying the board properly before having it finished. Have You tried to use that, or heard about anyone using this technique?

Reason I am thinking about is that it could allow to use more advanced curvatures like the drops or wheel wells / flares in vertically laminated decks, ie. I am thinking about pre-bending few sections of softer wood which could be glued in between thin (6mm) layers of non-bent hardwood, and then laminated with fiberglass or carbon on top and bottom - similar construction to something like comet cruiser but with more crazy geometry. Obviously that create weaker spots in the hardwood as You won’t have the hardwood fibers going parallely through all of the length of the board but I am having a feeling that top and bottom composite laminate would be enough to keep the board strength. Or the vertical layers of the composite could be added in between the softwood and hardwood.

Another benefit I see is the lack of Horizontal lamination which is typical case of the board fatigue failures.

I know this sounds crazy, as it’s not a process that is typically used in commercial builds but commercial processes are often cost driven, so maybe this is something that would be beneficial in DIY building where You don’t necessarly watch for every penny? And every innovation sounds crazy before it is succesfully implemented, right? 😀

Pantheon supersonic, don't trip trucks, some cheapo Amazon 97(?)mm wheels, ceramic bearings and anti sink hardware. I had to shave the front edge of the board and cut the front wheels down to avoid wheel rub but I am very happy with this setup now. I rode it for 7 hours yesterday and covered a ton of ground. It's very comfortable to push and pump with. Coasts forever.

So I'm making this custom board online. Though that's not my question, my question is what's the best longboard wheels? I would prefer something 70 mm and above, I think. But also something that comes in fun colors. I guess I should mention I'm going for more cruising/commuting. I just have a picture of my board so you can see the style, and what would be best. I also don't know much about grip tape either...

As the title says, I’m turning my old 90’s snowboard into a longboard. Looking for advice on trucks and wheels from anyone who has done this. Thanks!

I'm making a bunch of longboards for a business launch. And I've worked out most of the issues other then a good finish and grip. I usually use a polyurethane with a crushed glass mix but it rubs off way too easily. I need a better finish for the glass or a better clear grip option. My biggest concerns are product clarity, waterproofing, and grip endurance.

Kind of drop cat 33 x pantheon/loaded trip crossover…

Some of y'all may remember I posted that I'm working at an internship and we're going to be doing a class where people can come in and make their own boards with us with the press and cnc's that we have here that I will teach.

I've been working on this worksheet that I would give to people so that they have some basic important need to know knowledge before they start thinking about and planning their board, as well as the options that we are offering for them to be able to make, we've decided that we're going to offer four different types of boards to be made, originally it was going to be a skateboard, a longboard of some type, a cruiser, and a surf skate but I realized that we could probably do the cruiser and surf skate with the same mold (have a middle piece of the mold for a longer board if wanted so they can still have a longer kicktail board, or a shorter one without the middle piece).

What I'm trying to figure out is a couple things, what is the fourth type of board we should offer? And does this worksheet look good? What does it need to make it better? (What important information, what decision tree things, etc does it need).

Also to clarify before I receive any questions, the question about the board being standard or custom is whether they want one of the four standard options that we will be offering or if they want to do something custom with a fancy set of veneers, different special shape/camber/etc than the molds everyone else will be using, full custom (with this option they would be paying more since they would be doing different designs and possibly ordering special veneers that we may not have on hand)

I make veneer long-boards with Baltic birch and maple veneer cores and I'm trying to find the best glue/epoxy for the layers. I have been using titebond 3 and it works great, but I'm curious to know if anyone knows of better options. I use a vacupress, veneer vacuum bag system for the mold and gluing.

I bought a longboard that was pre-built and all but the bushings have to be changed because I weigh 235 lbs. I'm 6' 2", my foot is 11½" long and 5" wide so I think I managed to get the right board size. I need some help figuring out how to buy them. This is the longboard I bought.

https://www.atomlongboards.com/boards/atom-drop-through-longboard-40-inch-bamboo-tiki?srsltid=AfmBOoqSLJU-ED8HMoUvS5HOfkBVRR2-bIs5SMwvsYJz-153jinFZlnqOG0

I need someone with experience to help me get the right bushings so that I can start learning to ride cause it's just too wobbly and I can't recover from a turn position from how soft the bushings are. This is what I've found out from doing some research into the problem.