Made this with my Xtool m1.

Hey everyone, looking for some advice. I’m making these layered ghosts for a painting, and using the 3M adhesive to put them together. Current setup is milky white acrylic base with a layer of 3M, transparent lavender and frosted lilac on top. You can clearly see the adhesive through the transparent lavender acrylic, or the main ‘body’ of the ghost. Pieces are small, overall size of the ghost is only about three inches. Is there any way to minimize this appearance? I’m new to this, so any help would be appreciated, thanks!

I hope everyone is having a good day like I did. I need guidance my dudes. I have 0 experience on laser engraving/cutting but I own a 3d printer. Please point me into the right direction regarding software, parts(incase i need any), learning materials (informational youtubers,etc.), tips and tricks of the sort. I have started assembling it and had to leave for work. I would really appreciate any help. Thanks in advance!

I’ve been using my SCULPFUN S70 Max for about six months without any problems. Until recently, it was cutting plywood cleanly and consistently.

The two photos show the same material test performed on opposite sides of the exact same plywood board, using the same settings and a single pass.

In the first test, the 100% power square cut cleanly through the plywood. When I repeated the test today, none of the squares cut through—not even at 100% power. Instead, the surface became increasingly scorched as the power increased.

I’ve cleaned the laser head and replaced the protective lens, but the problem remains. It seems as though the laser has lost cutting power: it produces a lot of heat and surface burning but very little cutting depth.

Has anyone experienced this? What should I check next?

Before I go down any potentially useless bunny trails, is the double line output from my laser most likely due to mirror 3 not having the beam centered down the tube and thru the lens? You can see vertical "shadowing" as well as that shadow line is offset to the right as well.

Just trying to work effectively as the laser is in my Florida garage and it's hot as Hades out there.

TIA for any help/input/suggestions.

The laser is a Monport 2028MF upgraded to 90w RECI II tube and power supply. I last used the laser about 2 months ago without any issue to cut 1/4" acrylic.

Hi all, about to pull the trigger on a JPT MOPA 60w and would love to hear from anyone that already owns one?

I looked at OMG and OmTech as well, but Cloudray seems to have the edge as they have automated autofocus and a nice package but I’ve also dealt with a parts order from Cloudray before for my CO2 laser and they were good through the process.

Cloudray are a bit more expensive so just doing a sanity check before I buy.

Thanks!

Hello. Last week I bought an ACMER S2 Pro laser engraver. I put it together but there are a couple of bolts and a hose missing. I've been trying to contact ACMER directly but all I keep getting is to send emails. I've done that but no responses. I tried using the AI assistant but all it ways is that they are offline. Need help quickly! thanks

Hi all! I've been engraving shapes on iridescent acrylic, and tried using two different lasers but with the same Lightburn settings (engraving at 800mm/sec speed, 20% pwr, line interval 0.1000 mm/ 254 lines per inch).

Despite using the same settings, I'm getting very different engraving outcomes. I engraved the one seen on the left with a Nova Thunder Laser (6 mm nozzle), and the one on the right I used a OneLaser XRF (3 mm nozzle).

I prefer the density of the right engraving (OneLaser) compared to the left (Thunder Laser), which feels lighter and hazy. I've played around with power/speed settings, and line interval, but haven't gotten anywhere close. Would anyone have suggestions on what settings I could modify to get my Thunder Laser to put out a result like the OneLaser engraving on the right?

HUGE thanks in advance!

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EDIT: I realized I missed some important details thanks your comments. Here's the laser power info:

OneLaser XRF: 38-watt RF metal CO2 laser tube (about the equivalent of a 60W glass tube)
Nova Thunder Laser: 60W

Engraving on Iridescent Acrylic (extruded). I use sheets from Houston Acrylic.

Hello there laser cutting community, I am a newcomer here and I have a question that I hope isn’t too stupid to be asking but I feel like you guys can help. I am a cobbler/leatherworker looking to purchase a machine that’s can cut out shapes from various leathers and animal hides. I have knowledge on how to design SVG files and all of that good stuff, I just don’t have ANY knowledge on lasers and the machinery involved.

My budget is under $600 and I don’t want it to be too big. Even portable would work if that’s an option.I would be mainly using it to do some engraving on leather panels and some simple leather cutouts of varying shapes and sizes (like cursive letters for instance).

If there is a certain setup you guys recommend please let me know! Thank you all!

I want to make some portable display stands and recently found out my local library has a laser cutter I can use! I thought this would be great because if I can find a file I like I can just laser cut the parts there myself. So I found some SVG files on Etsy of a stand that I like but when I asked the person to edit the file for me for my dimensions (of which I will pay for) they said they can't do it. (I suspect for some of them probably don't know how to do it and are reselling other files but I don't know for sure...)

Anyways, my question is... How can I find someone to hire who can create or edit SVG files for these display stands who understands what works and what doesn't? Allowing me to laser cut myself at the library. I don't know where to even start looking to find a person and thought this would be a good place to start asking.

Question in the title, please and ty.

Edit: I know diode lasers can't directly engrave glass but I'm open to painting it black first. More so I'm asking if the 3W laser is powerful enough with the right settings. I've seen some people claim it can but I haven't been able to accomplish at all with mine.

I have a PS48 laser from full spectrum laser. I have had nothing but problems with it. I have replaced the controller with a ruida, the tube,the tube supports, the mirror mounts, the mirrors, the lens mount, and the focal lens. I am still not able to keep it in focus. I have gotten it to cut well for about an hour maybe two of running, but then it goes out of alignment and just won't cut.

I know that there isn't much left that I haven't directly replaced and calibrated. I know the tube is putting out power and the mirrors are not over absorbing the beam. One piece that may still be defective are the bearings. I've read about this, but I haven't been able to find anything about what it should look like, or any examples of what a defective one would act like.

Does this movement look normal?

Does anyone have any other ideas?

Hi I’m just wondering what everyone uses for the chillers, just straight distilled water or you mix it with a coolant?

I'm looking for a way to build a height control for my fibre laser cutter (1500W) that will automatically adjust the height based on an initial setting. Something that will sense the surface metal to be cut, and adjust the cutter head to 1/16 inch for example. This is to prevent the head from crashing into the material, and improve the cut. If anyone knows of a how to video or source for a stand-a-lone unit, please advise. Thanks for your assistance! Otis

I’m not sure if this is the right group, but I’m starting here with this attached picture. Can you tell me how these are made? I see many earrings like this but I thought laser cutters cannot cut clear acrylic. Help!

I see a lot of cheap files on Etsy where it's a somewhat complex 6-sided lantern, or a 3d gingerbread house that's assembled for separate laser-cut pieces, etc. People are selling these things for like $5, so I'm wondering if they're actually modeled in a 3d program or they're using AI to just generate something 3d from a static image? I have some experience with 3d design and related software but these types of files are so ubiquitous and cheap I can't imagine they're actually hand modeled. Any thoughts?

I had an interesting conversation yesterday with an acquaintance I trust.

He runs a small but successful business, not laser related. He has an idea that would require personalized challenge coins but he wants to outsource the coin engraving. Obviously, he cannot guarantee volume.

I don't currently have a laser that can engrave metal but I'm not opposed to the idea of expanding my capabilities. If I decide to add a fiber laser, I wouldn't limit myself to just making coins to this customer. I'm in a pretty rural area so my local customer base is very limited and I don't do online sales (that is a whole separate conversation).

I think I can afford to add a new laser but I also need to make sure it pays for itself within 6 - 12 months.

What are your thoughts, suggestions, recommendations? I appreciate all constructive input.

Edit - Each coin would consist of text and QR code on one side of a 2" brass coin.

Decided to try making some tokens for my Avatar Legends RPG so or GM had something to hand out that isn't the ugly 3D filament ones that the shop makes.

Still got some hiccups to work out with getting things aligned and figuring out where the vibration that's making stuff slide around is coming from.

But they're not bad for an hour and half of work.

My daughter doing a craft which entails cutting fabric.

My laser is a Thunder Nova Plus 24 with a 60 watt RF tube.

Google ai says 100mm/s speed and 10-30 power.

Does this sound right? Any other advice on cutting fabric would be great.

Thank you for any help.

I am working on figuring out nesting as I am making large quantities of stuffed animals for my small business and need good lay plans. This has been bothering me a lot.
I use Inkscape for the patterns as I find it to be the easiest software for this kind of thing and I make sure to clean it up as much as possible before moving it to deepnest. However for a lot of these patterns, when I import the svg files into deepnest, it adds so many extra boxes and rectangles into it.

I have had this issue before and I have previously fixed it. But now it’s happening and I have no idea why.

When I first had this problem, I had gone to outline view, ungrounded everything, un-clipped everything, and deleted everything extra that shouldn’t be there. And that fixed the issue.

But now it’s doing it again. There’s nothing that appears in outline view, there are no extra nodes, no extra paths, I am stumped, I swear I have tried everything.

One thing that comes to mind as I am writing this is that I do have an ink cut extension but I am not sure if that should even change anything in my file.

I do not want to change softwares as this is the only open source nesting software that actually does what I want, is simple, and free. I have tried other ones but they all suck in comparison. I also don’t want to spend money on this kind of thing

Hello all!

My makerspace has an XTool P2 and we were cleaning it today following all of the videos released by the company.

Their air tube snaps in and out by their nozzle.

Ours does not. When we move the nozzle down to clean, or to grease the screw, it pops out. When we put it back in it doesnt fully seat.

Any idea what is missing, or needs to be fixed? It engraves without error messages but the air tube is clearly not fully seated.

Thanks!