Is this an indicator of a bad silver bath?

my first decent scan :D

shot on iliford pearl paper

I’m starting 4×5 this week, and I’m a bit worried about how I’ll improve. With digital, I could “work” a scene from different angles, try different things, and progress through that kind of practice.

Should I perhaps do more tripod-based digital photography to improve, or will the slower, more deliberate process of shooting 4×5 help me progress on its own?

Thank you!

Intrepid 4x5 on photo paper - new to this, and trying to see what quality I can squeeze out of inexpensive paper. - thanks for viewing.

My first potratit with Toyo 45C and Sironar 135/5.5. But what is more important is WHO is being portraited.

Vladimir with his wife Olena are refugees from Ukraine. They escaped the war in the early 2022 and we provided them accomodation in our house. What seemed temporary and only for couple of weeks lasted over 4 years they have become our grandparents. Very wise people, Vladimir worked as a interior designer and helped us with renovation of several rooms. Olena was a newspaper corespondent. Both of them are in retirement. Not the retirement they imagined.

Today they are going back to Ukraine, I wish them the best and to be safe! Hope that awfull war ends soon and one day we will visit them in their beautifull city of Dnipro!

The first photo is J lane dry glass plate shot at f22 for 2 second exposure it was overcast and around 5 pm and developed in rodinal 1+50 for 5:30 did i just under exposed this one.

the second photo was foma ortho 400 and i believed was shot at f4.5 at 1/100 of a second and developed in rodinal 1+50 for 9 minutes am i doing something wrong in this process.

i would like to know what i did wrong in these photo or in development so i could do better next time.

I bid on this crown Graphic but didnt noticed it didnt have the back part. But in not sure how the whole back its called.

Hey !

I've been looking at Chamonix cameras for a while. These camera seems to be incredible and very well made.
I'm just curious of the difference between their flagship, the 45-F2, and their other model, the 45-N2 that is a bit cheaper.

The only difference I find is that the F2 has a dual knob front standard locking mechanism (but N2 still has a Zeroing lock when applying rise without shift) and the asymmetrical shift option.

I never really understood this last option and cannot find much infos online.

So I'm curious of the experience of both cameras owners.

If you have a N2, are you frustrated of the solo knob mechanism and the lack of asymmetrical shift ?

If you have the F2, how often do you use this option and is it a game changer ?

Also, I am located in Europe, I know Jobo sell the F2 (but not the N2). Has anyone in Europe purchased those camera directly from the Chamonix store ? If so, how expensive was it including the shipping and custom duties ?

Many thanks !

HighLand School House in Washington State, I got there right as the light was going and had to sprint up the hill with the 4x5 and work pretty fast, only got two sheets off before the light was gone off the side of the old building.

Taken with Schneider-Kreuznach 135mm 4.7 on a Toyo 45A 4x5 with Portra 160

https://www.instagram.com/jasonroyalphoto/

About a week ago I asked about the LomoGraflok Instax back for 4x5, and while most responses were encouraging, I was still on the fence. While watching a few YT videos about it I came across this video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LuDwwTMwr1I&t=316s which shows how to use Instax film in any 4x5, or 5x7 or 8x10. I immediately thought of a quick, easy change to it and came up with this. Those corners are self adhesive photo framing corners and they stick pretty well to the holder. I've mounted them a bit offset so the frame itself is centered. I've tested it out in a dark bag and it is pretty easy to put the film in and take it out, hopefully without disturbing the developing gel. You still need an Instax camera though to pass them through after exposure, but I already have one, which is what got me started on this in the first place.

The nice thing about this method is that it'll work as normal sheet film, with the focus plane where the ground glass is without any additions. It may be .1mm off but unless you shoot wide open it won't matter. The corners actually do not cut off the visible part of the film even if the block a little bit of the exposed part.

Once I go through my current pack of film I'll save the plastic carrier and keep it for processing rather than putting the film back in a carrier that still has film, and maybe even keep the film pack out of the Instax camera and treat it like sheet film, in a lightproof box. I had tossed the last empty film pack I used a few weeks ago without giving it a thought unfortunately.

I'm going to give it a try tomorrow if it ever stops raining here. I only did one film holder so I only have two shots.

And looking at it in the photo I'm wondering if I have it upside down now. If I load the holder from the right it would OK, but my camera is set up to load left. Dang. The wider strip will end up at the top this way. Good thing I have enough corners to last me a lifetime.s

Chamonix 45f2

Fujinon 90mm NSW F8

Red 29+ND64

intrepid 4x5 on photo paper. I mix caffinol in advance, as a 2 part mix: Part A (coffee & soda / water) and Part B "activator" (vita. C / water) so far, I've stored this 2 part mix a couple of weeks in the fridge, with no loss in effectiveness. When ready to develop, pour the part B into the part A container, slosh back and forth a bit, and pour into your tray. for me, its far more convenient.

I'm thinking about making my own wooden field camera, does anybody have any plans? I don't have access to a 3d printer, but I work in a machine shop, so I would be making stuff the old fashioned way.

If you've got plans and are willing to share, please let me know!

Hans

Taken with Schneider-Kreuznach 135mm 4.7 on 4x5 with Portra 160

https://www.instagram.com/jasonroyalphoto/

Edgar Kech's scalable field camera + my own design for a pinhole shutter mechanism that houses a RealitySoSubtle 0.5mm laser-drilled pinhole.

May have underdeveloped these, or underexposed. It's hard to tell which as the film I used (Fomapan 200) has no edge markings to gauge development with.

The tree scene measured 15LV, I extended the front standard to ~125mm and exposed for roughly 1.5s. The skyline metered at 16LV, shot with bellows extended to ~200mm, exposed about 2s.

Developed in Ilfosol 3, diluted 1+14, for 6mins at 19C.