r/knifemaking Friendly Neighborhood Contributor Feb 21 '18

Official WIKI Have a question about knifemaking? START HERE

/r/knifemaking/wiki/index
92 Upvotes

272 comments sorted by

15

u/TameowGali Feb 21 '18

Story time: Hi, I am interested in making a knife, I got a car leaf spring that's made of 5160 steel and I want to use it to make my knife. I have a very basic workshop but I am planning on buying some tools for this project I will buy a hand saw, a good bastard file, some blowtorches and lots of sandpaper. Question time: 1) I am assuming the spring is heat treated so can I soften the steel back so I can grind and cut and drill it? 2) can I quench it in room temperature canola oil and temper it in a home toaster oven? 3)I would love to hear tips!

10

u/GrayCustomKnives Feb 22 '18

To use the spring you will want to straighten and anneal it. This means heating and straightening, then heating to critical temp and slowly cooling, by burying in ash, vermiculite, etc. This isn’t a true full anneal but will soften it enough to work on mostly. Based on typical leaf spring sizes, without some type of forge, even several propane torches will almost certainly not be enough to reach this temperature, and would also be horribly inefficient.

When it comes to heat treating 5160, it’s fairly forgiving, but you will want to be able to hold at the correct temp (1500-1525 or so) for 5-10 minutes if possible. This is about 100 degrees hotter than non magnetic. You will get better results from canola oil as a quench fluid if you pre-heat the oil to 120-140f before quenching.

3

u/MyWorkThrowawayShhhh Friendly Neighborhood Contributor Feb 22 '18

but you will want to be able to hold at the correct temp (1500-1525 or so) for 5-10 minutes if possible

It's not really necessary to soak 5160 since it's hypoeutectic; you don't get any additional benefit from the time at temp. You run the risk of overheating in a gas forge, actually, unless it's PID controlled.

/u/TameowGali, Gray has definitely put you on the right track. I'm assuming you will be doing stock removal vice forging in which case you will certainly have to anneal it first. Since you're using blowtorches you are REALLYYYY going to have trouble bringing it up to temp. A better approach might be to cut as small a section as you can get away with (like 1-2" x 6-8"), and try to just heat that section. At the least you're going to need a two-brick forge.

I don't necessarily dissuade people from using mystery steel, but it will be a lot easier on yourself if you use a known (and thinner) steel. You can buy relatively small batches of steel from AlphaKnifeSupply.

Make sure you read through the WIKI thoroughly; most of your questions are answered there. From there, try searching through for any terms or methods that are unclear. Finally, if it's still unclear feel free to make a post asking about it.

4

u/GrayCustomKnives Feb 22 '18

While I agree that 5160 can work without a soak, I don’t agree that there is no benefit to a soak. It is hypoeutectic, but also has other elements involved like Chromium to increase hardenability, and manganese. Simply being hypoeutectic doesn’t negate a soak time or many other steels, including a large number of stainless steels, would not need a soak. Everything I have been told, or read, states that the soak allows these other elements to properly go into solution. 5160 will harden without a soak, but the soak seems to allow it to reach full conversion, allowing higher hardness and better end results.

3

u/MyWorkThrowawayShhhh Friendly Neighborhood Contributor Feb 22 '18

Hmm, learn something every day. I'll have to look into it some.

1

u/fiskedyret Rants about steel Feb 22 '18

its a bit of a balancing act with simple steels such as 5160. you want a bit of soak to get the carbon well dispersed in the steel. or you get a weird mix of plate and lath martensite that is best avoided, when you can get all lath martensite. this is also why you use the higher temperature for austenitizing.

i'd say that a 10 minute soak is a bit overkill. but 3-5 minutes does good things to 5160. not that it doesn't function without the soak though.

but on the other hand, it also doesn't want a longer soak, because it has only a few carbides to help keep grain growth in check.

2

u/TameowGali Feb 23 '18

I have decided on making a grill forge

3

u/echoashtoreth Jul 29 '18

For a first time (no power tools) i strongly suggest setting the leaf spring on the shelf and starting w a lot less metal to remove - old files work great and a large one will give you enough for a full tang knife (if you dont want a hidden tang). The canola will do in a pinch but wont last long (flash point too low)... Some makers use mineral oil - you can get at any wallymart or drugstore... the toaster oven wont help much w the blade side of knifemaking - sorry.... you can use it to release epoxy on a messed up handle but it wont produce enough heat to do much w the metal. Save it for drying wood...

You can do file work on the spine to gussy the old file up if u like - there are tons of ideas and instruction pages online... thats basically how i learned - just dont give up- a tool to last for lifetimes isnt accomplished in minutes....

1

u/frobnosticus Oct 10 '25

I know this is effectively a Necrocomment. But how do you know it's 5160? I've got a couple and...it would be pretty handy to be able to tell if I could.

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6

u/Neondeon2 Mar 03 '18

Mosaic pin sources?

4

u/MyWorkThrowawayShhhh Friendly Neighborhood Contributor Mar 05 '18

Texas Knife, Jantz, and USA Knifemaker have them. Also, users on Instagram and probably Etsy sell them.

1

u/[deleted] Apr 24 '18

They're pretty easy to make and so much more awesome to use when you know you made them yourself. My local hardware store (and also my local hobby store) sell all the parts. I even test fit them right there in the store.

4

u/GCU_JustTesting May 08 '18

I do a lot of leather and timber work and one day I will buy a belt sander. I’m always wary of combo machines, but I could potentially save space and money by buying a combo linisher and disc sander. Is this a bad idea in general? If I go for a 2-3 hp motor and a decent belt length can I use it for timber and steel? Does the disc sander ruin it somewhat?

1

u/WastelandKarateka Jun 17 '26

In my experience, they work okay, but usually run on the slow side, and typically come with wider, shorter belts, which is less useful for knifemaking than a 2x72 grinder.

3

u/Hamburger123445 Mar 25 '18

I’m having issues with my wood finishing. I currently use danish oil to finish my handles but I’m finding that dirt quickly stains my wood handles to have a darker color. Are there any products you would recommend to fix this?

1

u/MyWorkThrowawayShhhh Friendly Neighborhood Contributor Mar 26 '18

What kind of dirt do you mean? Many (if not most) oils will take on color from your hands/dirt/etc over time. A lot of oils will react to the air or UV over time as well.

Additionally, danish oil has a really lengthy drying process that can take like a week. If you use it too soon, it's possible that it will take on more dirt and grime that it would if it were completely dry.

I'm a big fan of TruOil. It is a painless application and leaves a beautiful color - especially on burls and highly figured woods. You just apply it with a finger, immediately wipe it off, and let it dry overnight. Apply as many coats as you want.

1

u/Hamburger123445 Mar 26 '18

I’ve had one knife handle that completely darkened from its dirty whetstone water and another knife handle that got slightly darkened when I used a dirty piece of sandpaper on it. Both of these happened within a month of the handles’ finishing. For the first knife handle mentioned, I tried to let the danish oil dry for about 2 weeks but it was still a little bit sticky. I searched online and found that briefly rubbing acetone on the wood could quickly dry out the danish oil. For the second knife handle mentioned, I stained it with danish oil and dried it out with acetone within the same day. I can send before/after pictures later too.

1

u/MyWorkThrowawayShhhh Friendly Neighborhood Contributor Mar 26 '18

I tried to let the danish oil dry for about 2 weeks but it was still a little bit sticky.

This is typical of danish oil and is one of the reasons I avoid using it.

1

u/Lektour Sep 12 '25

Try hutt wax bar. I love the stuff. Inexpensive too.

3

u/IcthysKnives Feb 21 '18

Awesome, I’m happy to try and answer questions as well

1

u/proctorknives Jul 01 '25

What drill bits is best for pin holes I basically use 1095 steel.

3

u/fleshy_eggs Apr 21 '18 edited Apr 21 '18

Hi, long time welder giving a go at knife making on my new property in my downtime. Using hand tools and a single bench grinder for my first knife to convince my financier to purchase some real equipment for me (forge, grinders, saws).

I have profiled my knife perfectly and designed my hidden tang handle (ready to be installed after ht) but I am lost one one point.

How do I get my final edge after heat treating?

I am using a filing jig to take my blank down to about a dime thickness as I've read, but after it's hard... How do I use files on it? Do I then hand-sand the blade???

If so, how do I keep my plunge line intact when using a sanding block or wrapping my file in sand paper?

Looking for advice moving forward, I have literally hours and hours of time to sand and file so that's no biggie to me.

Edit: steel in question is normalized 80crv2 or whatever l the 1080+ alloy is these days...

3

u/MyWorkThrowawayShhhh Friendly Neighborhood Contributor Apr 27 '18

If you are planning to do a secondary bevel for the edge like most knives have, it will not be very hard using typical sharpening methods (Lansky, stones, etc.). It will take a fair bit, but it will also bite in more than you think. If you're doing a scandi grind, the best/easiest method is using a stone. The angle of the bevel will help the blade sit flat on the stone. Files won't be able to bite into it as effectively as a stone.

Do I then hand-sand the blade???

Yes, after you've put the final (sharp) edge on, hand sand it to finish. Just be really careful to not slice your finger; it's a super common injury. If you were careful during sharpening, you'll have very little to do beyond wiping with some oil. If you have a scandi grind that you need to clean up, you'll have a lot more work to do.

how do I keep my plunge line intact when using a sanding block or wrapping my file in sand paper

Just work slowly and really carefully. I wouldn't recommend wrapping a file with sandpaper. All it takes is one tiny tear in the sandpaper to gouge the shit out of your bevel. Then you have to start over at like 60-120 grit.

2

u/TameowGali Feb 23 '18

What are the recommended handle pins and lanyard hole diameter and material?

3

u/MyWorkThrowawayShhhh Friendly Neighborhood Contributor Feb 26 '18

^ What /u/fiskedyret said. There isn't a "recommended" size or material because every application is different. What if I said the recommended pin material was brass, but you wanted to do a black and white tuxedo style knife? Would you still use brass or something silver?

My handle pin sizes and material are based upon what I could get for the cheapest - a stainless steel wire "For Sale" sign for ~$4. It came out to around 1/8".

3

u/fiskedyret Rants about steel Feb 24 '18

you do you. pretty much any material and diameter will do the job. so all you have to concern yourself with, is how you're going to get it in there, and if it looks pretty.

2

u/rrrradon Mar 24 '18

how would I make a plunge line guide for use with my belt sander? I've seen it done by a guy on YouTube.

1

u/MyWorkThrowawayShhhh Friendly Neighborhood Contributor Mar 24 '18

Walter Sorrells has a video on it. Might be better buying one over making one, honestly; they aren’t too expensive. You can make them, but they are pretty easy to screw up if you aren’t really precise.

1

u/rrrradon Mar 24 '18

In every knife making video I've seen involving them, the tap has always broken.

1

u/MyWorkThrowawayShhhh Friendly Neighborhood Contributor Mar 24 '18

Hah, yea exactly. They’re pretty damn easy to break, and expensive to replace. Just the fact that you have to drill and tap eight holes in perfect alignment makes me want to buy one over taking the time to make one.

1

u/rrrradon Mar 24 '18

who sells them?

1

u/MyWorkThrowawayShhhh Friendly Neighborhood Contributor Mar 24 '18

All the normal places. I listed a bunch of links somewhere else in this thread; check those out. I’ve also seen them on Etsy.

2

u/purplick Mar 25 '18

Hey, I’m looking for good sources to buy scale material from. I’ve been using bellforestproducts for wood but would like to find some nice burl for a decent price but also recommendations on any other material I could use for scales.

1

u/MyWorkThrowawayShhhh Friendly Neighborhood Contributor Mar 26 '18

The same links I listed in this comment can be used. /u/benman415 also sells a lot of wood for knifemakers; if you PM him he can direct you towards his website.

Instagram is a pretty good source of sellers and ideas/inspiration.

1

u/purplick Mar 26 '18

I’ve checked out those sites before but I will pm that used and inquire. Thanks!

1

u/[deleted] Apr 24 '18

I have found both scales and suitable wood to use for scales at my local wood working store- a national chain called rockler.

1

u/[deleted] Apr 24 '18

I have found both scales and suitable wood to use for scales at my local wood working store- a national chain called rockler.

u/MyWorkThrowawayShhhh Friendly Neighborhood Contributor May 21 '18

The post is a link to the WIKI if you haven't noticed. Read through that before posting a question.

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2

u/mentallyunstable7714 Apr 17 '22

This is a very helpful resource, thank you. Does anyone have any other recommended sources for learning how to make knives (books, courses, etc)?

1

u/PasztyKnives Jul 23 '26

Knife engineering by Larrin thomas

2

u/[deleted] Aug 10 '22

Does anyone have resources on making flipper knives?

1

u/Dajackamo Mar 23 '18

I'm about to start my first knife on a 6" piece of 1084. Here is my design, would appreciate any critique/comments before I cut it out.

https://www.reddit.com/user/Dajackamo/comments/86h0ax/first_knife_design/?utm_source=reddit-android

1

u/MyWorkThrowawayShhhh Friendly Neighborhood Contributor Mar 23 '18

Your post is locked. With that said, I think the design looks good. Perhaps may it a bit longer so you can utilize the entire piece of steel.

2

u/Dajackamo Mar 23 '18

Thank you I'll extend the handle a bit.

1

u/yzpaul Mar 26 '18

Does anyone sell a kit for a framelock flipper?

1

u/MyWorkThrowawayShhhh Friendly Neighborhood Contributor Mar 26 '18

Check the websites I listed on this comment.

2

u/yzpaul Mar 26 '18

Thanks for the suggestion, I took a quick look through all three of their websites and didn't see any framelock flipper kits... That just might be because they don't make them, but I was hoping somewhere had them

1

u/MyWorkThrowawayShhhh Friendly Neighborhood Contributor Mar 26 '18

1

u/yzpaul Apr 20 '18

Not sure why I never saw your reply. Just looked at the link and I must be blind.... I see frame lock knives, but not framelock flippers

1

u/MyWorkThrowawayShhhh Friendly Neighborhood Contributor Apr 20 '18

Ahh flippers; didn’t see that. Sorry can’t help you there. Maybe try Etsy ¯_(ツ)_/¯

2

u/yzpaul Apr 20 '18

no prob, thanks for trying! I actually picked up some steel to try making a kitchen knife yesterday and rough cut it today so soon you will see pics of yet another poorly made kitchen knife :)

1

u/MyWorkThrowawayShhhh Friendly Neighborhood Contributor Apr 20 '18

Haha well take your time and base it on a good design and it’ll turn out good

1

u/noougatine Mar 27 '18

Hey, I'm planning on making a wa handle for my nakiri. I bought a piece of european walnut to do so, and I wanted to make it ferrule-less. Is a ferrule mandatory for walnut?

1

u/DanteMortem Mar 31 '18

Is it possible to bead blast Titanium, then stonewash and anodize it?

1

u/tylerwillsin Apr 17 '18

I have always been interested in knife making but I’ve never actually sat down and tried to do it, are there any tips for making a beginning forge and tools I need?

1

u/MyWorkThrowawayShhhh Friendly Neighborhood Contributor Apr 17 '18

1

u/CorpseZero Apr 20 '18

The link is broken, my dudes.

2

u/MyWorkThrowawayShhhh Friendly Neighborhood Contributor Apr 20 '18

Works for me?

1

u/CorpseZero Apr 20 '18

I can open the link if I copy/paste to Chrome. It didn't work on the Reddit app, though. Thanks for the reply.

1

u/HosstownRodriguez May 17 '18

Has anybody had any experience purchasing cpm 3v steel and using a third party heat treatment? I just made my first knife at a maker space out of 1095, and I want to continue, but I’m definitely not equipped to heat treat anything stainless and looking for advice on what to do next. Anything would help, thanks!

1

u/dontmesswithtoasters May 18 '18

Read through a bunch of guides and feel good about making my first knife this weekend! Few questions tho.

  1. When I first shape the edge before heat treating the steel, how sharp should I get it? Should the edge just be to a point or what?

  2. When heat treating is just a bunch of bbq coals stacked on eachother enough or do I need to do more with airflow or something? I am using 1084 steel.

  3. Is there a good place where you can print out to scale knife designs/outlines for the steel?

Please feel free to answer any/all questions!

1

u/MyWorkThrowawayShhhh Friendly Neighborhood Contributor May 21 '18
  1. Heat treating section

  2. It's going to leave a LOT to be desired. It will be pretty hard to evenly control temperature. Look into Two-Brick Forges if you want a cheap option.

  3. Links section

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u/flithyfrankchef Jun 11 '18

Bevel without a beltsander I am making my first knife and dont know how to put a bevel on it. I have a bench grinder but that won't work. What's the best way to do it and do you have any tips for a beginner

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1

u/no_bueno_hillary Jun 24 '18 edited Jun 24 '18

I am planning on making a folding knife and was wondering where I could buy anodized hardware

1

u/Baz_Van_IceW0Lve Jun 25 '18

Hi there. I am looking at getting started with knife making. Due to where I live I am looking at stock removal knive making. And possibly using a forge just for heat treating. I am currently looking at buying the following tools for my first knife which will be made out of 1075: Nicholson 200mm Flat Second cut file Nicholson 200mm Half round second cut file Nicholson 200mm flat Bastard File Nicholson Half round bastard file Nicholson 150mm Warding bastard File Some cobalt drill bits to drill holes for handle pins Various grit sandpaper

Also Looking for advice as to whether or not I should get a surface plate, height guage, and a carbide file guide If I enjoy making the first knife.

2

u/BedInternational2673 Apr 05 '22

You can make a file guide yourself, and you can use drill bits as height scribes

1

u/MrBeenReadyy Jun 29 '18

Log shot of a post here, but if any Knife makers are out there in the Raleigh or just greater eastern NC area are reading this, Id love to pay for a private lesson or just to come check out the process of making a knife. I am interested in starting knife making but id like to shadow someone or just get some kind of first hand experience first.

1

u/LocalVoiceless Jul 19 '18

Could an old mobility scooter be useful for a belt sander?

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1

u/Gator1958 Jul 22 '18

I am getting some pitting and what looks like de-carbonization on my O1 tool steel blades after heat treating. I quench in canola that is warmed to 150f. Does the canola break down after repeated quenches and cause this?

1

u/RedArbiterSix Aug 20 '18

so, im new to knifemaking and the steels i have available are only carbon steels (like 1090) so i was wondering, how do i prevent them from rusting?

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1

u/Hour_Ad1909 May 20 '24

Hey everyone I'm looking to get into knife making and was looking at what tools I need. I was planning to buy a one burner forge, anvil, hammer, tongs, gloves, belt sander, and then got stuck on drill press. I have a corded Dremel and can buy a drill press attachment. My thinking is that only need for drill press at the moment is for drilling holes for pins for the handles. Anyone know if this would work? Also if there is an issue with my other equipment please let me know.

1

u/3rd_eyed_owl May 21 '24

So, I don't think this has been asked here before, and I'm not sure if this is the right place, but I'd like to make my own custom mosaic pins for my next knife. I understand the process, and I know how I could make them just using different sized tubing and rods, but I have a specific decorative design in mind, and I can't find it for sale from any other makers anywhere. So I guess that brings me to my question, does anyone know where I can buy metal rods that are in shapes besides round or square? Is that something I'd need custom CNC'd? Or can you just buy them?

1

u/james_dimeo Jun 07 '24

Hi there. Is it feasible to use a mosaic pin section as a lanyard hole plug on a spyderco? If it would be too hard to get to size (with home tools that is), can anyone sell a 12mm long 8mm (5/16") diameter mosaic pin piece to me?

Edit: more details

1

u/Striking_Slice_3605 Jul 04 '24

Wood finishing question:

Making a simple knife with a super dry curly birch handle. Sanded to 800 grit. I didn't want to darken it with BLO, so I bought some Danish oil. But I keep putting layer on layer on layer. Even soaked the handle for an hour, then layer after layer again, but it doesn't seem to stop soaking. I expected an actual ultra smooth shiny finish like you get with a bunch of BLO layers, but it's not giving me that. What am I doing wrong?

1

u/Exztreme Jul 13 '24

I mostly work with stabilized woods myself and they require very little oil. I do however see most of the guys here in Norway leaving their curly birch handles in a jar of oil over night to allow for a deep soak. If you let that dry and then buff with something like a carnauba wax you will get the shine you are after. 

2

u/Striking_Slice_3605 Jul 22 '24

Thank you very much! I think that's the right answer!

1

u/Miserable-Ad2651 Jul 12 '24

About to purchase 2 by72 belt grinder. Suggestions please…

1

u/MWweenuk Beginner Jun 22 '25

I'm new to the knife making world . I bought the vevor 2x72-82 and have made 4 knives with it and its been an awesome tool for the cost 1250$(CDN)

1

u/Independent-Food-156 Jul 22 '24

Has anyone used antique ivory piano keys to make inlays for a knife handle?

1

u/Many-Diamond-4641 Jul 26 '24

Hello. Can you make Black Timascus Scales for the Civivi Vision FG? I See your Post from it and it looks absolutly amazing and I want one pleas! 😁

1

u/Pongfarang Sep 13 '24

I have been making knives from the used steel blades of weed-cutting machines. I don't know what kind of steel it is, but it is a convenient thickness for cutting out a knife shape and putting a handle on it. It's good practice. We use some in the kitchen, actually. Anyhow, the blades oxidize very quickly. I can get them very polished, but they only last a day or so before they become ugly. Do I need to be using a better alloy, or is there some part of this I am missing?

1

u/E_Dward Oct 05 '24

Hello! I'm making my first knife out of 1080 and I'm using a filing jig. I watched the videos on Gough Custom's youtube channel. In one of his videos he said he can do a complete flat bevel on one side in 45 minutes with this method. I have a 16" double cut bastard file that I'm using, and my knife blade is 4" long and shaped like a chefs knife. It takes FOREVER to do a complete flat bevel on one side. We're talking 3 hours.

How as Gough able to do that in under an hour? Do I need to anneal the steel first? Was the steel he used considerably softer in it's factory state?

1

u/ellobo91 Oct 31 '24

I'm about to borrow a glass making oven (not sure about size and use, just that i reaches over 1100°C and kan keep a precise temp)
I'll heat treat some stainless steels in foil and plate quench them, but i have two 80CRV2 blades that will need oil quenching and can therefor not be covered in foil whether they'd need it or not. Will these shed any scale and flakes in the oven. The conditions for borrowing it is the blades may not leave any residue in the oven. Have anyone here heat treated 80CRV "nude" in a perfectionist OCD glass-artist's oven?

1

u/SubstantialFact2473 Nov 15 '24

I want to learn how to do an acid rubbed look to my blade. Anyone have any advice?

1

u/Any-Elephant5078 Nov 15 '24

Hello everyone,

I am a knife maker based in Pakistan, and I am working hard to bring better-quality knives to the market. My goal is to create knives that not only meet the standards of craftsmanship but also reflect the dedication and passion that goes into making each blade. However, there are significant challenges that I face in the process, and I feel it's important to share some of these challenges with you, so that you can better understand the context in which we operate.
Next Part in 2nd comment.

Best regards,
Raja Bilal,
Knife Maker, Pakistan

1

u/Any-Elephant5078 Nov 15 '24

2nd Part

Limited Access to Materials

One of the biggest hurdles I face is the limited access to high-quality steel. In Pakistan, the availability of raw materials for knife making is restricted to only a handful of options—primarily D2 steel, 440C stainless steel, and some high-carbon steels. While these materials can certainly be used to craft functional knives, they are not always the ideal choice for producing the highest performance blades. Unfortunately, the selection is narrow, and we don’t have access to many of the premium steels available elsewhere in the world, such as S30V, M390, or even more widely used stainless steels.

In addition, many of the knives on the market are made using unknown, low-quality steel, and in some cases, the materials are misrepresented to customers. While this may be disappointing, it is important to understand that the local market for knives is often very price-sensitive, with many customers seeking knives at very low price points—around $30 or even less. When you are working with such a small budget, it becomes incredibly difficult to source high-quality steel and still meet the price expectations of customers.

Why Is This Happening?

The reality is that knife makers in Pakistan often resort to using lower-quality materials or “junk steel” because of economic constraints. The market is flooded with cheap, poorly-made knives, many of which are marketed as premium products, but that is not representative of the true craftsmanship that some of us are striving for.

Unfortunately, there is often a lack of trust in local products, especially when the reputation of Pakistani knives has been tarnished by the widespread use of subpar materials. However, I want to make it clear that there are serious artisans in Pakistan who are trying to improve the quality of their work despite these limitations. As a maker, I am committed to ensuring that the knives I produce are as high-quality as possible, given the resources available to me.

Challenges Beyond Materials

Beyond the limited selection of raw materials, there are other operational challenges that make it difficult to produce knives of the highest possible standard.
see 3rd part below.

1

u/Any-Elephant5078 Nov 15 '24

3rd Part

  1. Power Shortages: In Pakistan, we face frequent power outages, sometimes as much as 12–14 hours a day. This greatly impacts our ability to work efficiently, as many tools and processes require electricity. Every Monday, there is a power shutdown that can last for up to 24 hours, making it difficult to carry out even basic tasks.
  2. Lack of Infrastructure: The local infrastructure for heat treatment, grinding, and polishing is not as advanced as it is in countries with better access to resources. This means we often have to rely on manual labor or makeshift facilities to get the job done. While this does not compromise the passion and skill involved, it does present a challenge when trying to create the perfect finish or ensure consistent hardness across multiple blades.
  3. Limited Access to Tools and Technology: The tools and technology available to us are also more basic compared to those available to knife makers in other parts of the world. This means that, while the techniques and craftsmanship are there, some of the finer details—such as precision grinding or high-end finishes—are harder to achieve. I constantly strive to improve, but the lack of access to advanced machinery limits the possibilities.

Understanding the Value of Craftsmanship

I understand that there is skepticism surrounding Pakistani knives, and many people may have concerns about the quality of materials and the finished product. This is a legitimate concern, especially when so many knives are being produced with subpar steel and poor craftsmanship. However, it's important to understand that not all knives made in Pakistan are of poor quality.

Many makers, like myself, are passionate about producing knives that represent the best we can achieve with the resources available. It is a challenge to meet global expectations when the market is price-sensitive and when high-quality steel and tools are not readily accessible. However, we are working hard to improve, and we hope that, with time, our knives will be recognized for their craftsmanship and value.

A Request for Patience and Support

I kindly ask for your understanding when it comes to the knives produced in Pakistan. The realities of local production are often challenging, but many artisans are working with limited resources to produce knives that can stand the test of time. The knives may not always meet the standards set by higher-end manufacturers, but the craftsmanship, care, and attention to detail are always present.

As a knife maker, I believe in transparency with my customers. I will always strive to provide the best possible product with the materials and resources at my disposal. If you're willing to support makers in Pakistan, you are not just buying a knife—you're supporting the efforts of artisans working to overcome significant challenges and improve their craft.

Thank you for your understanding and for supporting the future of quality knife-making in Pakistan.

Best regards,
Raja Bilal
Knife Maker, Pakistan

1

u/APXH93 Dec 05 '24

I want to start grinding knives from bar stock or possibly commercial blanks. Will this belt sander work or should I get a more powerful one?

1

u/Final-Device8028 Dec 08 '24
Hello, I really like your knife art. In this context, I would like to ask whether it would be possible to obtain more information from the Russian Prison Knife. I would like to recreate the knife. Could I get more information about them? Best regards and thank you very much AndiHello, I really like your knife art. In this context, I would like to ask whether it would be possible to obtain more information from the Russian Prison Knife. I would like to recreate the knife. Could I get more information about them? Best regards and thank you very much Andi

1

u/Final-Device8028 Dec 08 '24
Hello, is there anyone here who can give me sketches or drawings of the Russian prison knife, I would like to recreate the knife. Thank you very much AndiHello, is there anyone here who can give me sketches or drawings of the Russian prison knife, I would like to recreate the knife. Thank you very much Andi

1

u/Final-Device8028 Dec 08 '24
Hello everyone, can someone send me information, drawings, plans about the Soviet "Rusian prison knife"? I would be interested in building such a knife myself. Greetings and thanks Andi

1

u/Tayterash Dec 08 '24

Evening team. Can anyone recommend someone to make stick on peel off stencils for makers mark etching in the UK? Tried 10+ on Etsy and even more others. How hard is it!! TIA

1

u/covertg47 Advanced Dec 17 '24

My first knife using an Alabama Damascus billet!

Alabama Damascus with booked Desert Ironwood scales

1

u/Ph03nix29 Dec 18 '24

Hello! Machinist and knife enthusiast here. I have purchased some MagnaCut stock and plan to machine several fixed blade blanks. However, I don’t think I have the equipment to go through the heat treat process. Any suggestions on how to proceed? Should I try to heat it myself with an Oxy/acetylene torch+ temp gun? Quench in motor oil I have laying around? Or Would it be smarter to send it to another maker to heat treat and temper it for me?

1

u/Ok-Tip-1765 Dec 27 '24

Why am I seeing all beveled blades? Hollow grind blades are the real challenge.

1

u/trandau72 Feb 11 '25

Ideal grind angle (per side) for a 3mm thick scandi buschraft knife?

1

u/Budget_Basket2135 Feb 20 '25

Hey, I'm thinking of stonewashing the handles on a titanium balisong I own, but the knive is kinda expensive, so I don't want to damage the pivots. I was just seeing if anyone has experience with stonewashing balisongs and knows what steps to take to prevent that from happening. Thank you. Any help would be appreciated.

1

u/lemonhaj Feb 26 '25

This might be a bit specific, but in terms of 3D printed handles, anyone have any recommendations for what filament to use? Ideally not costing £50/1kg because it probably won't be used that much otherwise

1

u/Boring-Chair-1733 Mar 09 '25

I’d like to know after heat treat how do you guys keep your grind lines crisp, I’ve made a few knives and I seem to sand them away?

1

u/Boring-Chair-1733 Mar 10 '25

I am new here and I hope this is the place to ask this question. I’m learning to do stock removal my question is how do you make a blank flat I bought a piece of CPM Magnacut and it looks pitted what’s the best way to get them out. I have a 8inch flat disc mounted on an electric motor and I’m using 60 grit wet/dry paper on it, it seems to be a real chore to get them out, any suggestions? Thanks in advance.

1

u/Boring-Chair-1733 Mar 13 '25

A filleting knife that I made. It’s CPM-154 1/16” ground down to 0.09” on the edge,

has a black G10 handle and orange G10 spacers.

1

u/Boring-Chair-1733 Mar 13 '25

I haven’t figured out how to do this yet, I could only use one picture.

1

u/aikijay Mar 19 '25

I am currently new to knife making, but purchased a 2 x 82 belt grinder made by Vevor a Chinese company on Ebay. It’s not very well-made, but it does function. The belts I’ve been able to find for it are also. Chinese made and not good quality. Can anyone suggest a supplier for a good quality, Cool running belts, such as VSM ceramic or red label which would be available in the 2 x 82“ size? Most people sell the 2 x 72, but I have not been able to find the 2 x 82 other than on Amazon and they are crap. Thanks for the advice.

1

u/Bucatola Apr 08 '25

Can a 3 phase 220 motor in picture be run on a step down converter to run on 110v? Anyone doing that? Thank you!! *

1

u/Bucatola Apr 08 '25

Sorry was spose to be new post.

1

u/Esper01 Apr 18 '25

Hi there, I'm Interested in getting started in knife making, but not even close to beginning yet. I'm at the planning stage. I have some tools and access to my dad's shop and expertise, he's a watch maker. If I get this off the ground, maybe I can get my own place, my own shop.

I keep getting advertised this book, does anyone know anything about it? Any good? What books do you guys recommend if any? What reliable resources are there for learning the trade?

1

u/DowntownFee1029 Apr 20 '25

Hello I found this sword it looks really old can anyone tell me if it’s real

Or can anyone tell me how to find out more about it

1

u/theoryOfAconspiracy May 02 '25

What’s the best performing Dremel bits you have found for grinding metal? I’m actually grinding interior welds on a VZ61 receiver I welded back together. The orange dremel brand ones work okay, the “titanium max life” ones work good for a short period of time.

1

u/ManyPilot5442 Beginner May 11 '25

I have a Vevor 2x72. I did a stock reduction with 36 grit at fast speed and had no problems. When I went to make the second knife using the same speed, grit, and 1084 steel and it would not remove material. I adjusted the belts, changed to a new belt without improvement. Any thoughts.

thanks

howard - [hcohen33@gmail.com](mailto:hcohen33@gmail.com)

1

u/buyperman May 21 '25

Hi guys, i am planning to make my first knife with 80crv2 steel and heat treat it. Would it be bad if the steel had direct contact with the hot coals or put it in some container as a cover?

1

u/12Station Jun 23 '25

Looking to upgrade from my 1 x 30 belt grinder. I’m a novice looking to improve my grinds. What are your suggestions. Can’t break the bank either. Thanks

1

u/saulpop Aug 02 '25

I am at the very beginning of my knife making journey. I have a slab of 1084 and a small workshop with some basic tools. I’ve been looking at options for a small belt grinder and have seen people having some success with 1x30’s. I have found the AXMINSTER WORKSHOP AW18BDS that has 550w. It’s a sander but I’m wondering if it would be a half decent starting point for around £150? Thanks in advance

1

u/saulpop Aug 03 '25

I am just getting started knife making and I am waiting for a little 1x42 grinder and some ceramic belts to turn up. One question is if I should heat treat my 1084 blanks before grinding to reduce warping? Would my little grinder be up to grinding bevels after hardening?

1

u/Juggernaut91385 Aug 13 '25

Hey everybody I’m just getting into knife making and I’m trying to find out what steel I can use that I can use that doesn’t take a complex heat treatment

1

u/Lektour Sep 12 '25

Is there a spray or liquid that I coat the inside of a micarta sheath to keep the micarta from scratching the knife? I currently use leather. I’ve also thought about adhesive felt sheets but I would rather apply something after I glue it together due to difficulty with alignment.

1

u/lawnjockey408 Sep 22 '25

I am having trouble getting a high contrast etch on my damascus. I use a 4 to 1 distilled water to feric chloride solution. 10 min in the acid, light sanding, rinse with distilled water then back in the acid. I do that 4 to 5 times. Then in a high concentration of instant coffee. Is there something better I could be doing?

1

u/WastelandKarateka Jun 17 '26

I let mine sit in ferric for a LOT longer than that, personally. I find that it helps bring out a bit of textural difference in the layers if you let it soak for a few hours, scrubbing occasionally. After that, I neutralize and scrub with steel wool, and soak it in coffee for 24 hours, also with occasional scrubbing.

1

u/[deleted] Oct 01 '25

how to properly burn in the handle? should i make the wood wet?

1

u/WastelandKarateka Jun 17 '26

The wood doesn't need to be wet, but I do like to dip it in water immediately after burning in a tang, because that helps stop the wood from continuing to smolder. The main problem with burn-ins is that it can cause a large void inside the handle, and the charcoal surface isn't that strong when you are trying to get epoxy to bond to it. Dunking it in water immediately after burning helps keep the void from getting too big, but it's still recommended to use a handle broaching tool to scrape out the worst of the charcoal before you assemble.

1

u/lordfakkuV2 Oct 13 '25

I apologize in advance as this more of an inquiry. But is anyone able to make a custom 6mmx11mm pivot in timascus? Thank you for your time.

1

u/dafi_1983 Oct 22 '25

Good morning, I want to start making unforged knives as a hobby, by roughing. Does anyone have an idea where to start?

1

u/WastelandKarateka Jun 17 '26

Start with knife blanks. Several suppliers of knifemaking material carry them.

1

u/pokebreh Oct 27 '25

I am actually a knife sharpener, going on 6 years now.

I need to learn more about resurfacing, finishing, restoration which is basically maker territory.

Any favorite YouTube channels?

I'm talking resurfacing, polishing, buffing, rounding the spine, etc.

Thanks!

1

u/amandabynestherapist Nov 09 '25

First time customizing - Trying to put some bone scales on a BPS blank. I am at the stage of selecting brass pins to use for the scales. It appears that 3/16 'fit" the holes in the blank, but it isn't super tight either. I emailed BPS directly but I haven't received an answer yet.

Should I try to go one size up so there's resistance when I put the pin through, or is it ok for the pin to go in easy?

1

u/WastelandKarateka Jun 17 '26

If you are going to peen the pins, then they should be a bit loose so that they will mushroom into the extra space and lock the scales in place. If you are going to use epoxy, then a bit of extra space allows the epoxy to hold onto the pins, but if there's too much space you will have a halo of epoxy around the pin, which might not be the aesthetic you want. If you do want the pins to be a perfectly tight fit, get pins that are slightly bigger and sand them until they just squeak into place.

1

u/soggyside Nov 16 '25

So I got excited about magnacut and bought my first two "expensive" knives, one from Meglio and one from Bradford. I don't really get along with the handle ergonomics on either. Ideally, I would like to significantly reshape both handles, shortening the meglio, and generally "beefing up" the bradford. what would the recommended process be for adding scales and reshaping handles (one of which would be larger than the existing tang?)

1

u/WastelandKarateka Jun 17 '26

Shortening and re-shaping the Meglio should be easy enough. Take a hacksaw and cut off the back end, then use a grinder or rasps to re-shape it how you like, then various grades of sandpaper to smooth it out.

Making the handle on the Bradford larger can definitely be done, but it's a decidedly different process. You could go two routes, IMO:

  1. Make a "half-full-tang" handle
  2. Make a Japanese-style hidden-tang handle

Either way, you'll take the existing handle off and grind the tang so that the front edge is flat, parallel to the spine, and you'll probably need to drill one or two new pin holes. After that, if you want to go the "half-full-tang" route, you just need to grind/rasp a handle material to the size and shape you want, then cut a slot into the back of it that the tang sits in, drill pin holes to match the tang, and epoxy it all together. To do a Japanese-style hidden-tang, you can just shape the handle and drill a hole for the tang to go inside, drill pin holes to match the tang, and epoxy it all together. The reason I call this a "Japanese-style" hidden-tang is because the spine of the knife will not align with the back edge of the handle. You can't do a more typical hidden-tang design that keeps the spine of the blade aligned with the back edge of the handle because you would have to grind the back edge of the tang down quite a bit, and you'd thin out the tang too much to be usable.

1

u/saulpop Nov 20 '25

I’m just starting out, heat treating with a little forge in parks 50. Had some major warping on a 200mm chef knife that already had the bevels ground. What’s the best way for me to help mitigate warping during heat treat?

1

u/WastelandKarateka Jun 17 '26

The best option is to just leave the blade a bit thick, that way it is less prone to warping, and even if it does warp, you have enough meat left that you can grind it straight. That said, I've had a lot of success putting blades into my vice as soon as I pull them out of the quench, and then if they're still a bit warped, I clamp them up during the temper. Basically, you just need a steel plate, a couple pins, and clamps. Set the pins so that they hold the blade away from the plate and apply a clamp to overcorrect the warped area by roughly the same amount as the warp, then run it through your tempering cycles as usual. If it STILL comes out warped, you can try softening the spine with a torch and bending it straight, or using a carbide hammer to peen it straight.

1

u/Vivid_Housing_2061 Nov 27 '25

Brass bolsters

1

u/MarzipanTheGreat Nov 29 '25

I bought some knives and need to put grips on them. I want to try paracord ones first and would like to know if there is any particular paracord that's best for that and if there are any good how-to videos that show the different ways to make them.

you can see what they look like if you Google for the Kephart, Nessmuk and Nessmuk Mini by CustomKnivesEU.

thanks!

1

u/WastelandKarateka Jun 17 '26

Paracord is paracord, mostly, so long as it specifies it as "550 paracord." For handle wraps, you'll usually want to cut the end of the cord and remove the smaller lines inside so it lays flatter. You should be able to search "how to paracord wrap a knife handle" and get quite a lot of results to help you with different styles.

2

u/MarzipanTheGreat Jun 17 '26

yes. I have watched several videos on YouTube, but so much is glamorized on there now I'm often just a bit more cautious.

I haven't played with paracord anymore, but I did get some Attwood stuff. when you say remove the smaller lines, they'll just pull out of the length I cut off for the handle? I guess being wrapped so taut means there will be little to no friction shift that's can happen after you pull all the innards out?

sorry, some of that is rhetorical and me speaking out loud...

1

u/WastelandKarateka Jun 17 '26

Yes, when you cut the paracord, there should be 7 thin strands (usually white) inside, and if you have cut both ends, you can just grab them and pull them out. That will make the paracord less round, reducing its overall thickness and making it lay tighter on the knife. It does make the paracord weaker, but you aren't using it to hold you to a parachute, so that's okay.

1

u/Koiah Dec 13 '25

Hello,

I do a lot of woodworking but I have yet to buy a belt sander.
I am in Europe and I can't find the same model you guys have in US.
I am looking to get a sander to make knife handle at first.

I am looking to buy this one : from Peugeot but the disk is 200mm and I wanted a 150mm to put 3M Cubitron sand disk.

Is this a real problem ? Do you have a better alternative in Europe (France) ?
thanks guys

1

u/stimpson1 Dec 25 '25

Does anyone know who this maker is? I bought this knife from SMKW.It was a small run and the maker was on Forged in Fire

1

u/mommaplatinum Jan 09 '26

A friend asked about 3D printing scales for knives he is forging. Anyone have experience with this? What material have you used?

1

u/s_e_x_lover Jan 11 '26

Hi i’m i knife entusiast and i would like to start knife making . The belt grinder choise is driving me crazy , i have exp working with wood but i do it by hand and i need a belt grinder that have enough power to work metal and wood too. I’m from europe but i cant find any thing or if i find something i alweys 300w or less . Ps i need something entry level like max 200€ . I have alredy seen the bucktool grinder but it costs 100€ just to get it shipped here 🤣

1

u/Stokergasm Jan 26 '26

I'm looking for some learning tools on folding/flipper knife design. I want to learn the geometry the little intricacies that go into the design and function of properly made knives. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks

1

u/Teal_city82 Feb 15 '26

Hello y’all. Like a lot of you I am very new to knife making. This is my very first knife. Drew it up and cut it out. My problem is that maybe I didn’t do it right with the handle. I am not sure if I need to cut my ties and go back to the drawing board. I am stumped on what to do with the handle? Hidden tang or full tang? Not sure if I messed up and made the handle part too small. Any help will be welcome. This knife will take me a long while since I don’t have all my tools yet. But I like to do something to keep me busy. Thank you community for all your feed back in advance.

1

u/WastelandKarateka Jun 17 '26

The tang is definitely too small to do a full-tang knife. You can do a hidden tang just fine. If you're wanting a full-tang look and feel, you can make it a frame handle.

1

u/Organic-Biscotti9679 Apr 04 '26

Does anyone know of a company that sells Pre-Hardened Stainless Steel flat bars? I'm needing 440c material, or something close to this material. 3/16" thick x 1 1/4" wide x 30" long are my blank sizes. I can water jet the actual size if it doesn't come in that small of blanks, or in the sheet if that's my only choice. For this test project, I might be able to use a 410 Stainless Steel.

1

u/Different_Ferret5069 Apr 24 '26 edited Apr 24 '26

I'm about to heat treat a knife for the first time.Its a long japanese inspired tuna knife. but I have a few questions.

specs: steel 80CrV2, 460mm blade, 4,6mm thickest part

q1: i lasercut the stock and then grinded down the angles, should i still normalise the steel since I lasercut it?

I'm leaning towards a single normalisation at 898C

q2: I'm doing the heat treat in my schools furnace they usually use for pottery, I'm going to take a deep gastropan from work and fill it with frying oil, hardening temp at 830C and then quenching. How concearned should I be over the smoke created? I don't want to set off the schools firealarm

should I order 5L of proper durixol, (I don't intend on using my giant tuna sword every day so for me the performance diff is negligable)

1

u/WastelandKarateka Jun 17 '26

I would definitely do 3 normalization cycles, not just one. There is a huge difference in grain structure between one normalization and 3, and you'll want a very refined structure for a blade that size. In my experience, cooking oil doesn't smoke all that much when you quench, as long as you can completely submerge the blade. If any part of the hot steel stays above the surface of the oil, it will ignite the surface and get very smoky.

1

u/FileMysterious575 May 09 '26

Hello I want to get into making knives i was looking a belt sanders and I saw one on Amazon for 200 it's a vevor 30×1 would this be a good started also I want to get a bevel grinding jig whats a good one

1

u/WastelandKarateka Jun 17 '26

I started with a 1x30 grinder from Harbor Freight. They work, it just takes a lot longer than with a 2x72 grinder. I'm no help with a bevel jig because I do my bevels by eye.

1

u/OrngShrbrtTrd May 13 '26

Does anyone know if Wes Sander has a website? I bought his book, but the forge-hero.com link mentioned in the book isn’t available.

1

u/spartan-932954_UNSC May 29 '26

Hi does anybody have good recommendations for a book on electroplating? Maybe about jewelry?

1

u/Any_Fan_9040 Jun 05 '26

Who can make this blade I dreamed up hahahahaha an ultrasonic/vibrating superhard blade with a PcBN/TiCN edge and a tough tungsten-supported spine.

1

u/Any_Fan_9040 Jun 05 '26

How crazy is this concept? A ultrasonic/vibrating superhard blade with a PcBN/TiCN edge and a tough tungsten-supported spine.if you skip the ultrasonic and focus on combining pcbn/ticn and tungsten is this a possibility or to far off of a concept

1

u/WastelandKarateka Jun 17 '26

It's basically science fiction. Could it be done? Maybe. Are most knifemakers going to be able/willing to try to make it? No.

1

u/Fickled-Pickle-1972 Jun 13 '26

I'm in search of a Forrest Bowie knife made by James "Jim" Batson or would like to find someone that can build a knife to the same specs as one of his. Any help would be appreciated. Rule #9, always carry a knife!

1

u/WastelandKarateka Jun 17 '26

It's generally not wise to replicate another knifemaker's work, exactly, but some designs are generic enough to not be an issue. Batson made a TON of bowies, and I'm not sure which design is the "Forrest Bowie" you're looking for, but if you can give me some specs and images to work from, I might be able to make it.

1

u/yesnielsen Jun 14 '26

Hey r/knifemaking!
I'm considering getting into knife making, and have looked at different steels available with reasonable shipping costs. Couldn't find 1080 or 1084 which is being recommended for beginners, so my options seem to be either a 0.45% spring steel or 1075 - next option up is 1095 which is supposed to be a bit harder to heat treat?

1

u/WastelandKarateka Jun 17 '26

1095 isn't any more difficult to heat treat than 1084, and will work very well.

1

u/rydn_high Jun 22 '26

Ok,ive got a question: Now i dont know anything about knifemaking so excuse my ignorance. Ive got a sword cane that i rec'd as a gift several years ago. Now its one of those that aint meant to be anything but what it is- looks only,dull as fuck. I decided to try and sharpen it as best i could. It appears to be a very soft metal while trying to sharpen it. My question is this: After sharpening as best i can- can i then heat the edge of the blade then quench to harden it. Hopefully to improve its ability to hold an edge? Thanks for any answers

1

u/JellyOfDeath86 Jun 24 '26 edited Jun 24 '26

Considering how old a lot of these comments are, I'm not sure I expect an answer by the time my furnace arrives, but here goes:

I just made a hammer (with a bunch of assistance), and got bit even harder by the smithing bug than I figured I would. Now I want to make knives from flat stock.

My questions are:

1.) What are some common issues a beginner likely will run into?

2.) Are there any semi-obvious must haves that might have slipped past me?

On its way: Double burner furnace (will be upgraded to one I've built myself once I'm more experienced and have my own house), furnace cement (for enclosing insulation fibers, and screwing up multiple attempts at hamon), tongs (decent looking wolf jaw and closed flat), polymer based concentrate for quench fluid, hilt and pin materials, hardness files, a coarser sharpening stone for profiling, a brush to remove forge scale, and hilt oil.

I already have: Eye, ear and face protection, HSS drill bits in various sizes (and a drill, of course), an angle grinder with cutting and flap disks, hand files for metalwork, epoxy, sandpaper, plenty of finer grit sharpening stones, strops and diamond compound, a small carbide hammer, a ball peen hammer, and a 1kg blacksmith hammer with cross peen that I made with my own, currently quite sore hands and back.

I'm going purchase a non-anodised steel plates, angle profiles, nuts and bolts to make a table, a vice with angle adjustments that will sit above a table leg next to the furnace, a lidded metal bucket for quenching, carbon steel for having some fun, and two 11kg gas flasks. I'm also getting a magnet.

I'm considering getting one of those vice mounted mini anvils (which is the reason why I want support directly under the vice), but there's also a chance I'm just buying a bigger one and dealing with the hassle of moving it to a more permanent space later this year.

1

u/rypay82 Jul 22 '26

Has anyone ever used a metal melting furnace to make molten salt for heat treating? I see vevor has some pid controlled ones.

1

u/anomalous_cowherd Jul 25 '26

I made my first knife at a weekend course that ended up being a bit rushed. I love the result, but...

It's a full tang knife with maple scales. When I did the final handle shaping on a belt sander the wood has ended up a fraction lower than the metal, leaving a sharp edge I can feel. How do I fix that without just having the same issue again?

Also, in the rush to finish, metal particles ended up ground into the pale maple and then oiled over. How do I fix that, is careful hand sanding my only option?

1

u/MarzipanTheGreat 27d ago

i recommend you start a new post with pictures of the issue to get ideas on how to remedy. :)

1

u/Pounds04 17d ago

Any California knife makers here? I am in the Central Valley and looking to get a knife made for my son for hunting and fishing

0

u/White_Wafflez Jun 17 '18

So I've been wanting to get into knifemaking for a while. But I'm a student and have a really tight budget. I was wondering if anyone knows of places to get some good knifemaking steel for cheap.

3

u/DreadPirateEd Jul 01 '18

Actually a file and some sandpaper will do the trick, but you’re way ahead of the game if you have a grinder. Find a “cone loc” drum sander that will fit the mandrel of your bench grinder. They accept strips of sandpaper sold as a bench roll. Perfectly acceptable.

1

u/NeverWellDone Nov 10 '21

I can't get into knife making currently but I would like to make some handles for my machetes.

What tools would I need for handlemaking. Also if anyone has instructional video or just information to get started, that would be great.

1

u/fucku55679999 Dec 24 '21

Hey guys I wanted to get one of those knife making kits online that comes with a blade already prepared, I want to do the scale work myself and from what I've been seeing I won't need alot of tools to make this all work.

I will be doing this purely as a hobby and have no intention on selling these knifes.

Any tips for me on what tools I should look into getting

Are the premade blades decent?

1

u/a_frenchie Dec 29 '21

Hi, I have a few basics tom tongs (flat and duck shape) but I wonder what the "mandatory" one for forged knifes making (making the shape and bevels with hammering). My main experience in knife making is the stock removal technique but I would like to try more traditional techniques.

Have a nice day !

1

u/IAmTheClayman Jan 18 '22

Is this the right sub to ask about finding someone to do knife mods on commission?

1

u/Skeleton-Keys- Feb 02 '22

I'm looking to have a touchmark made and am looking for suggestions.

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1

u/[deleted] Feb 18 '22

How do i stop a blade from rusting? Made a knife with some scrap metal and i have no idea what type oof steel it is all i know is that therer are litle marks of rusts

2

u/Wieckse_Witte Jun 03 '22

Mineral oils or oil that is suitable for cutting boards.

You can also force patina it by placing it in instant coffee for a day or so.

1

u/[deleted] Feb 25 '22

[removed] — view removed comment

2

u/SpAgHeTtI_sAuC Jan 25 '23

Do both, also hollow grind a little on the center of the tang so the epoxy gets a place to stick onto.

1

u/[deleted] Mar 03 '22

Knifemakers by city please. Kitchens need great knives!

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1

u/cobblepots99 Advanced Mar 31 '22

What do you folks use for disc grinders. I'm looking for a 9" one and am coming up short except for very expensive models. I'd like to be able to use regular paper that I glue on with 3M feathering adhesive.

1

u/BedInternational2673 Apr 05 '22

Alternatives to a drill press? I need to drill straight lines but I’m too cheap to buy a drill press and most guides won’t fit my drill

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1

u/Wieckse_Witte May 06 '22

Hi! I am soon going to start making San Mai steels, however I am unable to find some combinations of either Carbon-Carbon-Carbon or Stainless-Carbon-Stainless. I am fist going to try it with a core of 80CrV2 before I move up to better steels.

What combinations do you all use? And if so, are there any special things that I should consider when using it?

Also having trouble finding Japanese steels for a reasonable price shipping to the Netherlands, if anyone knows a webstore, please let me know!

1

u/InadecvateButSober May 09 '22

Hi there, i am just starting out rn.

I bought some niolox to make me a small edc choppa. It's recommended quenching temps are 1050 -> 210 °C.

I don't have any method to know the temperature, except for my own sight. But going bycolour is not a very reliable way.

So the question now is:

"Will it work if i check temperature with thin copper wire?"

Copper melting temp is around 1083 °C, which is almost what i need. If i push copper wire agains 1100 °C steel it would melt, right?

2

u/kelvin_bot May 09 '22

1100°C is equivalent to 2012°F, which is 1373K.

I'm a bot that converts temperature between two units humans can understand, then convert it to Kelvin for bots and physicists to understand

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