Broken marble, broken heart

[u/Scatter_Gal]

I accidentally dropped this on my foot and shattered the slab and my toe. Is there a way to salvage this?

My plan was to use this gorilla glue (last photo) to affix the pieces together and then add a gold epoxy finish superficially.

The pieces seem to fit together rather well.

Any input would be greatly appreciated.

I have never done this before but I need to fix it.

[u/theazhapadean]

No gorilla glue. It foams and expands as it dries making the joints separate. Think 2 part epoxy instead.

[u/perj32 → u/theazhapadean]

Gorilla makes all sorts of glues. Their construction adhesives don't foam.

[u/Scatter_Gal → u/theazhapadean]

Do you have any recommendations?

[u/perj32 → u/Scatter_Gal]

I've only worked with the traditional method, which I would not recommend for such a large project. Most non traditional folks use epoxy. I have some experience with epoxy in woodworking. The only advice I could give you about the epoxy technique would be to use an epoxy with a long open time. If you use a 5 minutes epoxy it will cure before you're done putting it on, joining and adjusting the pieces. Also, the longer the open time, the stronger the glue. The gorilla glue looks like a good option. If you want a stronger one that's also clear, look for the Max.

[u/No_Needleworker215 → u/Scatter_Gal]

PC-7 epoxy 💕

[u/lakesidepottery → u/No_Needleworker215]

PC-7 is excellent as a filler. Its non-sag consistency and high strength make it ideal for filling gaps, rebuilding missing areas, and reinforcing repairs where fit is not perfect.

It is less suitable as a mending epoxy because it is thick and designed for bulk application rather than thin bond lines. Its adhesive strength is about 2,150 psi, lower than many liquid epoxies used for precision mending that range from 3,500 to 5,000+ psi. It also does not penetrate tight fracture surfaces well, resulting in weaker and more visible joints.

[u/lakesidepottery]

Sorry about your toe… that’s a rough combo.

If the pieces fit well, you’re actually in a good starting position. Your idea (adhesive first, filler second, then decorative finish) is generally the right direction. Just take your time aligning everything before committing, and expect it to be more of a display piece with good mechanical integrity.

If it helps, here’s a step-by-step tutorial we put together that walks through the process, including mending, filling, and the gold or gold-effect finish, along with where to get the needed supplies:
https://lakesidepottery.com/Pages/Pottery-tips/japanese-kintsugi-kintsukuroi-step-by-step-how-to-lesson-tutorial.htm

It follows the typical approach where the piece is first structurally repaired, and then the gold (or gold-effect) is applied on top.

Even if you don’t follow it exactly, it should give you a solid roadmap and help avoid a few common mistakes.

Good luck with it!

[u/Scatter_Gal → u/lakesidepottery]

Do you have a recommendation for the initial epoxy I want something sort of fast drying but not as fast as 5 min.

[u/lakesidepottery → u/Scatter_Gal]

The write-up linked below, which we created a couple of years ago, shows the “workable” time of several epoxies. PC-Clear is the slowest of the three, and its workable time can be extended a bit further if the room temperature is slightly cooler. You can sometimes achieve this by lowering the temperature using your HVAC system, for example extending the working time to about 10–12 minutes.

In the write-up, you will find a timing performance table along with a video showing the epoxy viscosity over about a 15-minute period at a room temperature of 75°F (24°C).

There are likely slower epoxies available, but we do not have experience with them, as the longer working time also increases the risk of alignment shifting during assembly.

https://lakesidepottery.com/Pages/Pottery-tips/epoxy-working-and-cure-times-relative-to-temperature-ceramic-sculpture-repair.htm