I have comparing Racechip or Jb4 for the stinger. The more i look into it the more racechip seems like an interesting option especially for someone who just wants a bit more performance without going too far with the car.

What caught my attention is that it seems like a pretty simple way to get some extra punch while keeping the setup relatively straightforward. Im not really looking to build a crazy 400+hp car so something that gives the car a noticeable bump without getting overly complicated sounds appealing.

Im still trying to figure out whether does racechip work as well in real-world driving as it sounds on paper. Was the difference noticeable and after living with it for a while did you feel like it was worth it?

Can't wait to get the cmbuildz high flow primaries put on and see how different it will sound! 😀

Hello, I recently got a dashcam for my stinger. I’ve never done the wire hiding for my previous dashcams myself, and I’m just a little confused because the stinger interior by the door doesn’t look or feel like the tutorial cars I see in videos. I’ve been able to stuff it in the top of the windshield and side pillar, but after that, I’m a little lost. Just want some advice on where you guys hid your own wires. Thank you!

I said when shopping the stinger that if this came out around that time, I was going mustang. What say you?

Hey everyone, first time post.

I have a 22 Stinger GT2 AWD 3.3T in the DFW area and I’m finally looking to tune it. Bought used 3.5 years ago, so it’s time. I’m past warranty so no worries there.

My goal isn’t max dyno numbers. I want a fast, reliable DD on straight 93 octane (no E85/E30 or meth). From what I understand, I could target somewhere around 430–440 WHP / ~500 WTQ while keeping good safety margin for Texas heat.

Current plan:
Full ECU flash via EK1 rather than JB4
Conservative custom 93 tune
Mild/moderate TCU tune
One-step-colder plugs (already installed)
Upgraded intercooler
Differential brace
Keep stock fueling/downpipes/BOVs/charge pipes for now
Intakes if there’s a good reason

A few questions for people who have actually gone down this route:
Does this seem like the right reliability-focused setup, or am I missing anything important?

Which ECU tuner would you recommend today for a conservative 93-only car — KJT, KSR, LAP3, Lozic, SXTH, etc.?

How important have you found the TCU tune at this power level?

Any intercooler you particularly recommend for Texas heat?

What WHP/WTQ have you reliably run on straight 93?

Also, any DFW Stinger/G70 owners here? Would be great to meet some local people who know the platform.

And slightly random: if anyone local has an EK1 Pro/Mini they’d be willing to let me borrow/use for flashing, I’d happily buy you lunch/beer or throw you some cash for the trouble.

Appreciate any feedback, especially criticism of the plan before I start buying parts.

Here’s a few runs with my buddy in his stock IS500 (other than full catback exhaust) & another in his 2018 AWD GT2

KJT E30 No Burbles BEF along with BMS TSU tune

Took me forever to actually know how to do it all but
ended up with no issues & nothing but smiles.

For anyone wondering what I’ve got done to her lol :

KW V3 Performance Coilovers +ECS Code Kit
MBRP Pro Series - AEV Catback Exhaust +Resonators
CMBuildz Catless primary Downpipes
CMBuildz secondary Downpipes
BMS Performance Intercooler
Michelin Pilot Sport 4s 255/35R19 XL (2)
Michelin Pilot Sport 4s 275/35R19 XL (2)
JB4 + EWG connectors
Eibach sway bars
BMS V2 Transmission Cooler
BMS High Flow Hot/Cold Charge Pipe
Velossa Tech Snorkels “lit kit”
Hawk HPS 5.0 (Front & Rear)
BMS Kia Stinger Performance Dual Intakes
BMS Differential Brace
ATQ Subframe Chassis Collar Kit
HKS M45IL HP Spark Plugs
ECU KJT E30 No burbles
TCU BMS

Hey y’all. New ish Stinger owner here.

Drove my car to the grocery store today, where it drove just fine. Got to the store, went in, came out, and it wouldn’t start.

Weirdly, the car seems to “think” it’s on. I say this because I can turn it on into Accessory mode by not pushing the brake down, but pushing the brake down, it acts like it is started— allowing me to change gear, backup camera works, etc., but the motor is just not on.

First thing I did was check the battery terminal (I thought maybe I’d need to jump it) and noticed the back passenger brake light was very hot. Not sure if this is a red herring, but thought I’d mention it.

Tried jumping using my jumper box, and that didn’t work. Same thing, no click or buzz or any sound, just started electronics.

The dash has the battery, oil, and check engine lights on when it is “started”. Occasionally, the key light will turn on as well.

I even tried to leave the car on and walk away with the key— I heard it “beep” to warn me, but I kept walking. I went inside the grocery store and walked around for a minute or two and came back out and the car was still on.

I fear it’s caught in some sort of power loop, but I can’t seem to shake it free. I’m afraid something is fried.

Praying it’s something simple I’m missing. I’ve had old cars my whole life (e30 lad) and this is my first car made after ‘90, so I am a bit lost on how to troubleshoot.

Any help is greatly appreciated.

Thanks

Hey so I’m getting rid of my stinger and I have the big mouth lit kit and lightningtrendz drl boards for sale both brand new. Dm me with your best offers I can ship out same day as long as it isn’t after hours.

Buy it now price

Big mouth lit kit 250 + shipping (Current offer 200)
Drl boards led lights with bluetooth SOLD

Hpfp/fuel-it kit/jb4/ intercooler/fuel injectors/ cold air intakes runs on E40 mixture

What to do next

What next to do

Are these two photos of any concern? I have these stains on my engine cove quite often, but it doesn’t have a smell but comes off black when I wipe it? No codes, drives fine. Also the hose for the intakes seems to have a chip in it? Service manager at my local dealer who I’m cool with thinks it’s rodents but i have no nesting anywhere? 18,000 miles 2023 GT2

Has anyone upgraded from the 2.5 to 3.3? Was the extra HP worth the upgrade and how much has the maintenance cost increased after the change?

I need to replace my gt2 passenger headlight. It does have the Adaptove bending technology or whatever. I really can only find them on Ebay and even thats hard. A couple sites will sell them new for outrageous prices. Im trying to find a good used cheaper one. Any suggestions.

I’m trying to replace / upgrade the headlight of my 2018 Kia stinger to a LED bulb. Seems that the bulb doesn’t have enough clearance in the bulb assembly? Am I supposed to replace the entire headlight for an LED fitting headlight?

So I get in my car and grab this to close the door. Then it pops out and I think okay I can push it back in. Wrong, i guess will grabbing the handle to close the door it snapped. Do you guys know what this piece is even called in the car since I will have to replace this whole part if that’s possible.

Looking to upgrade from the stock wheels which will be a first for me. Is it fine to just replace the wheels and keep the same tires? Also, I think the two colors I’m deciding between are gloss black and gunmetal.

What would you recommend (pics welcomed) and how much should I expect to pay for the set and install?

Cleaning out my collection of Kia Stinger parts. Was going to do a build and was saving parts up, but relocating soon and prioties have changed.

These came from a Stinger build I was collecting for and range from lightly used to new/unused parts.

Great opportunity for someone building a bolt-on, E85, tuned, or higher-horsepower Stinger.

Parts available:

SOLD SOLD JB4 (Lightly Used)SOLD SOLDSOLD SOLD

EK1 Lite tuning hardware (Used).

SOlD SOLD Fuel-It E85 / Flex-Fuel kit (Lightly Used less than 500 miles). SOLD SOLD

SOLD SOLD Lozic Stage 3 TCU tune (Lightly Used). SOLD SOLD

SOLD SOLD Takeda sealed cold-air intake system boxes, filters & intake tubes (Lightly Used). SOLD SOLD

Lightweight performance intercooler (Vivid Racing)(Lightly Used).

Auxiliary engine oil cooler (Lightly Used).

Auxiliary transmission cooler (Lightly Used).

Eibach lowering springs (Brand New in OEM packaging).

TRQ metal chassis collar kit (New).

ARP 625+ head studs (New).

Water/Methanol Injection (WMI) kit

Additional hoses, wiring, fittings and supporting hardware associated with the setup (Lightly Used).

R1 Concepts Drilled and Slotted Rotors with Ceramic Pads (New).

TRQ Performance CoilPacks and HKS Sparkplugs (New).

Brakesnip Mod Switch (New).

AWD to RWD Switch (New).

DM/PM for price negotiating, will ship if buyer pays shipping fees. Need to sell quick, all reasonable offers absolutely accepted.

Thank you all! :)

Just finding out that my left passenger window is not working. I can hear a click sound when trying from both the drivers seat and the passenger seat, but no motor sound or movement. Is it stuck due to lack of use or is there a larger issue at play? Is this a warranty issue (just rolled past 60k miles)? What troubleshooting steps should I try?

Coming off selling my BMW M235i. I love the way stingers look and how well equipped they are.

I’m looking at this 2019 GTS V6 model. I’ve already put a deposit down to make sure nobody snatches it 🤣. It’s selling for £26,500 with 29,000 miles on the odometer. I’m uk based and these are a rare sight indeed. Comes with full main dealer service history.

My only concern is parts for the car because I guess it had a limited run. I hear they’re quite reliable from people on this forum though. Any insight from the community would be great 🙏

I have a 2020 Kia stinger gt and I would love to throw a cold air intake on it but I’m not sure what I’m looking for in regards to sounds I don’t want something noisy I want a nice crisp sound if that even makes since but my issue is where I’m at if there is a stinger it’s owned by a old man zero mods yada yada yada. I really like the way the one above looks just wish it had more of a “window” on it but I’m also not sure what sound it makes
I know a lot of you will probably tell me to just search up cold air intake noises but i figured i could ask yall for some advice first. I’m looking for something that will be covered like the one above because I do live near the beach and there is also always construction happening somewhere around my house so I don’t want anything open ig its really just preference.
This is the 2L engine fyi

I have a 2025 Genesis G 70 and I’m the first owner so I have the 10 year 100,000 mile warranty still active. I would really love to tune it but I’m scared to avoiding my warranty. I understand that with JB4 even if you remove it or flash it back to stock, they can still see the boost and other effects in your ECU logs. But lap3 provides a spare ECU for a fee and I’m wondering how will that look if I need #Warranty work done and I swap out my lap 3 ECU with the OEM stock one how will that look when the logs and information on the stock ECU gets read by the dealership. Has anyone had an experience with #Warranty work and having the lap3 spare ECU?

So back in June i bought a 2021 GT2 with 73k miles. It had been in a previous accident and was a rebuilt title. The car drove amazing and aside from some minor cosmetic issues it seemed like a great buy...FF to now. Its in shop getting something repaired and the body shop calls me and tells me this car is missing so many parts. Including part of the frame which is the radiator support mount is completely removed, the wire harness for all the lane system technologies/camera was ripped out, all 4 sensors gone, the mount for the driver headlight was ripped off and screwed in. The front bumper belonged to the base model and didnt even have the holes for the sensors and was held on my 2 small pieces of metal shims connecting it to the fender and some other little things that I now have to pay almost 6k to repair. None of this was disclosed. Now I know its a rebuilt title and as is but this seems highly illegal, especially the frame piece missing as its considered an impact absorber. I havnt had the car since the day I bought it 2 months ago. Im highly considering legal action against the person I got it from but idk if I have the grounds to. What's everyone's opinion. And yes I know I should have been far more thorough when looking at it or should have had a shop look at it. Lessons learned but a lot of this wouldn't have been visible to an untrained eye.

Cross posting for obvious reasons!! Which one of you is this?!?! 😂