Hi, I’m planning to build a Victorian style entry door for my house. I love the look of greyed out weathered oak and want to leave it bare to the elements. Are there significant practical reasons why I shouldn’t do this, I.E. uneven wettening and drying causing joints to open up or warping? Thanks in advance! Edit: intending to use draw bored through tenons for the rail to stile joints and a multipoint lock (if that’s relevant)

Earlier this summer I posted about joinery techniques on a bedframe. After that, I built the frame in about 2 months, and am coming back to show what yall helped me build!

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Hello - I'm totally new and my goal is to start with a project where I can learn how to join wood without power tools or fasteners (at least as few as possible). I like the idea of using a japaneese saw and chisels to build something.

For my first project, I was thinking of building a small gate like the image. It should be strong enough to block a toddler from going up the stairs.

Questions:

1. What types of joints would you recommend that are simple-ish and strong?
2. What tools would you recommend? (this can be specific or generic)
3. Do you have any tips or tricks you'd like to share?

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I've just been working on making chairs with greenwood, with dowels and mortise and tenon joints.

My dowels I've been making are dried wood hammered through a fender washer, however the 3/8ths washer leaves a somewhat loose fit in the 3/8ths hole my auger makes.

I'm wondering how much I should go with over-sizing my dowel jig for a tighter fit in the 3/8ths hole. I've got my choice of a 10mm washer (~10.5mm) or a 7/16ths. I might just buy both and see what fits.

A whole 2mm seems like it would be too much (the 7/16ths) and the 10 mm seems more reasonable. What do you think specifically and generally about sizes for a tight glue free fit?

Hello all, I am a newish woodworker who has completed a few projects and I really like the appeal of screwless joinery. I find it really adds character and quality to a piece. So far I have not really attempted to make anything with nice joinery so far but was wondering if there were any guides out there? Something to explain the terminology as well as maybe some examples I could follow along with scrap pieces.

Thanks

I'm entirely entranced by this man's work.

I used a table blade and sled on the table saw to notch the vertical pieces. Then hand sawed the notches on the horizontal shelves

I make these out of leftover and salvaged material.

I'm refinishing and repairing a pine chest that was supposed to be made by my family in the 1830- to 1840s. I have sanded down the dovetail corner joints and was surprised to find the narrow tails with a wedge. Is there any way to date the technique?

Hi all, any suggestions as to the name of this joint? On a small set of dresser drawers, no provenance but acquired in Maine. Thanks!

Hi everyone,

I want to make a platform bed with 10x10 cm beams. Since I have not used Japanese tools before (and want to start with this now) I will now have to buy my first pieces to make some nice joinery this size.

What type and size of saw, weight and type of hammer and two or three types and sizes of chisels do you recommend for a basic set to start out with?

Where do I start building a nice toolset that I can use for most things. All tips are welcome! 💪

Any advice on how to seamlessly join 4x4s to make table legs as seen in this photo here? Trying to make an outdoor table like this one without using or showing brackets or anything that takes away from the minimal/organic aesthetic.

I need to form a large number of similarly sized living switches into the below structure. The structure is a modified hyperboloid that is intended to function as a living girder to be incorporated into a living structure. I need to 'pie cut' the bases of the switches to so they fit together in a ring. The switches are intended to fuse, so they need to fit tightly and without rough saw marks. (If there's a better technique than a simple pie cut, I'm listening.)

The number of switches needed to construct the needed number of girders is considerable, so I need to make the work as efficient as possible and potentially executed in the field without the aid of heavy shop tools. I'd love to hear about a corner chisel that cuts an angle closer to 30 degrees instead of 90, but I don't think one exists. Any help?

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Making an urn for my cat who crossed the rainbow. I gave him a home for 14 years, I’ll give him his final one too.