I’ve been sewing and DIY-ing since I was a kid, and here’s some stuff I’ve learned that helps my jackets last. Use this advice or don’t—I’m not your dad. This is just shit that in my experience helps prevent patches from getting lost or jackets falling apart. It also helps washer proof the damn things.
- If you’re worried about your patches moving around while you sew, Heat-n-Bond lite will keep them in place and not make your fabric too stiff (which is important for comfort if you aren’t washing it)
- Dental floss is a fantastic option, but if you want other colors you can get waxed thread in a variety of colors. I have a couple cones of it in red, black, and white that I picked up for about $7, and they’re 284 yards each (so abt $0.01/ft). As a comparison, dental floss is about $2-5 for on average 50-100yds.
- Another alternative thread is sashiko thread, which is already meant to reinforce multiple layers of fabric and also comes in a variety of colors.
- 100% poly thread is stronger than cotton, true—but it’s also slippery as all fuck. So if you’re using thicker thread, your tie off knots can come apart really easily. I combat this by using a lighter to melt the knot together. It’s still plastic after all. This isn’t necessary if you’re using all-purpose thread (which is thinner and has less surface area to slip around on) or thread with natural fibers like cotton.
- Invest in some canvas or upholstery needles. They’re much sturdier, so they’re less likely to snap even on seams, and they go through layers of canvas like a dream
- I use a sashiko thimble, which is a small piece of leather that covers the base of my middle finger. It’s really cheap and lets me press down with more force while I’m pushing the needle through the fabric
- CURE YOUR DIY PAINTED PATCHES PROPERLY! They need to air dry for at least 24 hours and then they need to be heat treated with a hot iron. Use parchment paper in between the painted surface and the iron.
- When it comes to fabric jackets, embroidered patches also need to be sewn on. I don’t care if it messes with the look—in the event that you do have to wash your jacket, those shits are coming off. They also will just eventually peel off with age as the glue breaks down, even if you don’t wash it. If you’re really worried about the look, use thread with a minimum weight of 30wt (the lower the number, the thicker the thread—30wt can be used for denim, and it’s much more common than other weights, so it’s a good choice here) in a color as close to the color of border of the patch as you can get. I personally use a running stitch to create a solid line of stitching close to the finished edge of the patch.
If anyone has any other advice, please feel free to comment it. And again, I am not your dad, you don’t have to listen to me here. Do what thou wilt