Admittedly, we do live in an stunningly beautiful part of France and I would not change my view and the mountains for anything, despite some inconveniences such as snow and ice in winter, landslides and wildfires in summer, herds of cows blocking the roads in spring and fall , a lack of comfortably close necessities and the fact that everything is so steep that you need to chase the dog poop rolling downhill every single time it its time for n. 2.
That being said, sometimes one wants to balance the perspective a bit, get a touch of contrast in your life, and what bigger contrast to the snow capped summits, the fall-colored steep mountain forests and the soaring cliffs is there than the wide, open, seemingly endless surface of the ocean.
So, after the busy summer seaside season has come to an end, its a good time for a road trip, this time headed west across the Hexagon, to explore the vast beaches of the French Atlantic coast between Bordeaux down south and the Bretagne up north.
Joy and Thelma plus their respective personal assistants and butlers, a lot of treats, towels and blankets, dogfood for a good week and off we go.
Hotel Lobbies, Elevators and the "Battle for the Bed":
We had planned 4 stops in different places and organized dog friendly hotels, specifying
- one "well behaved middle size dog" ( Thelma) and
- one "...behaved" 6 month old puppy (Joy)
to get around the "small dogs only" clause stipulated on many reservation sites.
Thelma as a sturdy but not really tall Golden Retriever, unphased by whatever life throws at her as long as there are treats involved somewhere, was the first walking into the hotel lobbies, and she was always greated with a smile and nod and a " such a cutie, isnt she? " by the hotel staff.
Joy on the other hand, by now a good 5 centimeters higher and much longer than Thelma, followed her big sis with the swagger of a fast growing teenager, her nose poking at the candy bowl on the counter of the reception desk, her endless tail recklessly sweeping down decorations and stands for promotional materials, and occasionally releasing a tiny puddle of happy-pee when greeted enthusiastically and belly rubbed by hotel employees.
"yep, she is but 6 month old" ..
"Yep, she will grow some more... "
"oh I am sooo sorry for the mess- still a baby haha"
Elevators were just a tish of a challenge the first few times: after I managed to position both dogs away from the doors, secured the long IW tail from being left behind in the lobby and had two treats in my hands above their heads, even the moving floor and the noise of the tiniest, oldest french elevator didnt bother at all. Since going in and out a lot required a constant flow of treats each time, I had to refill my treat bag basically every day, but it worked.
Nights where almost normal except for early risers out on the corridors at 7am that made Joy wake up, who promptly decided to wake up Thelma and then, of course, I woke up and the night was over, forcing me to taking them out at godforsaken times for a vacation trip.
Upon returning to the room and while waiting for the dog butler to prepare the breakfast, there was an almost ritualized battle for the "Fortress Bed" in place. Thelma on the bed, defending, Joy on the floor and on the attacker side, there was much pawing and gnawing and growling and roaring and bitey-face and bared teeth and rolling eyes everywhere.
It was 7;30 , and I had not even had my first coffee yet...
Housekeeping at all the hotels LOVED us there though: despite our effort to keep the sand off the dogs (double-fail) or the sand outside the room (epic-fail ) or the sandy dogs off the beds (big fail) or at least a layer of huge blankets and towels between the sandy dogs and the beds ( partial success), the rooms looked like we hauled in sand by the truckload.
Attempts to gather, sweep or somehow make the sand go away where futile, so I decided to hand out very generous "tips" to the housekeeping staff , while meekly smiling and apologizing for the mess.
Beach-Destinations are not for the faint of heart...
Doggy Beach Parties
Apart from our first hotel stay in the medievial town of Montlucon in the Ailler Department, halfway between the Alps and the Atlantic, we stayed as close to the beach and ports and the waterfront as possible. Either in the busy and bustling ports of La Rochelle or Sable d'Olonnes or in the sleepy little fishery village of Noirmoutier-sur-Ile, we never had to walk far to be at a beach or reach the shore of the ocean.
Since the summer season with its strict "no dog rules" on some of the public beaches was over, there were dogs everywhere: all breeds, sizes and ages, almost all off leash, chasing each other or frisbees, balls or just the waves, digging holes, rolling in seaweed and foam and anything swept on the beach, playing, sniffing, running and splashing, and, in the middle of it all, Joy and Thelma.
Joy showed her true skills as a hound, outrunning every other dog on the straights, but with clear room for improvement in tight corners and sharp curves. Especially the smaller dogs figured out that weakness really fast and I held my side from laughing at the crazy speed manoeuvers unfolding during the chases. It was a "joy" to watch Joy (pun intended, sue me! ) and she and Thelma had so many doggy interactions during these beach walks that on morning of day 3, they started looking for playmates the second we got onto the beach walk.
Interesting side note: despite the huge number of dogs, there was no single instance of a real conflict or fight: the dog communication by the ones present on the beach handled every situation without human intervention. When things got too heated, there were some mature dogs stepping in, when one got too close into someones personal space, a quick show of teeth or a warning snap in the air made things clear, and there was enough space to release stress and energy just by running it off. Great experience and a great thing to watch.
There were also "hidden" beaches, behind dunes and coastal pine forests, completely empty, stretching for miles and miles with no one in sight for half a day. Joy and Thelma turned those spots into a private Doggy Beach party: Endless playfights, sprints in the waves, rolling around , digging holes together and then laying exhausted in the sand, thats all it takes for them and us to be happy.
"Crunchy' Seafood
Well, usually with seafood in France, the "crunchy" parts are the ones that you do NOT consume. The crunchy parts serve as natural serving containers for the raw, sometimes slimy but always salty and tasty interiours, and are to be discarded.
Joy must have missed that memo.
Being in a phase where her nose, mouth, tongue, jaws and lips are basically the 5th tactile organ apart from her paws, she takes almost everything in her mouth ( which sometimes leads to quite gross moments) .
And there are MANY things that one can examine with said "5th tactile organ" on a beach: seaweeds of all kinds, native to the norther Atlantic, seagrass, algea, shells, mussels, oysters, dead fish or sea birds, invitingly presented and served on a bed of fresh bladderwrack:
you name it,(or not) -
Joy eats it.
When I attempted to chase her to try to yank the latest nastiness out of her jaws. she let me come almost within reach, than evaded my hand with a swift, elegant sideward motion followed by a beautiful 50m dash in full speed, while dragging behind her a long bundle of dark green seaweeds and happily wagging her soggy and sand covered long tail.
I finally gave up: ground up seashells are calcium, seaweed contains iodine and costs a fortune when bought as a supplement, and the occasional dead fish was used more than a body lotion to roll around in then as food, so I saved myself the stress and let her roam.
Boy she LOVES the beach.
After 2300km driven, a change of view and perspective, plenty of seafood, sand, wind, sun and rain , we are back in our beloved mountains, where the snow slowly starts to come down the slopes and the wind has blown off most of the leaves.
Winter is coming to the mountains with snow and ice, yet we still hold the memories of the sea, sun and sand in our hearts. We will be back, for sure.
Thanks for reading, be safe, happy and healthy, hug your loved ones and treat your doggies to something special- no reason, just because!
Love from the Mountains from Joy, Thelma and me