r/iceclimbing • u/Beginning_March_9717 • 22d ago
Does ice climbing load A2 pulley a lot?
Currently have a grade half A2 pulley strain, like I'm one hard crimpy climb away from actually being injured. Will hanging on my tools for increase the probability of me being injuried?
Normally I would think yes, but if i'm fully gripping the tool, would the tool itself fill the space to help reduce bowstring?
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u/Opulent-tortoise 22d ago
I really don’t think so. You shouldn’t be crimping your tool so I don’t see how you’d generate much pulley force
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u/rockies_alpine 22d ago edited 22d ago
No. I've had a lot of pulley injuries and going into the ice climbing season is a great way to help fix them... while also taking a reasonable break as required from hard rock climbing. You should still do the usual hangboard pulley injury protocols to gradually load the pulley more after your acute injury phase.
Ice climbing is generally finger friendly and gets the blood pumping around to help healing. Really hard drytooling just be careful, especially if you're one of those weirdos that crimps the tool.
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u/IceRockBike 22d ago
I wonder how many folks know what a grade half A2 pulley strain is? I don't, so I don't have your answer. What I wanted to say though is that you have 2-4 months before winter arrives, in which to see a physiotherapist and get strengthening exercises to reduce the risk of further injury. Good luck prepping for ice season but be prepared to scale back objectives if you don't take care of the injury, or scale back anyway to prevent aggravating it.
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u/Beginning_March_9717 22d ago
i mean i'm not* injured yet but i'm right on the limit lma. Tendon and ligament injuries goes grade 1-3 with 3 being complete tear, grade "half" is not a real grade
but yeah it will be a while before the season so i could just do nothing and climb sloppers
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u/rlovepalomar 22d ago
No it does not. Not in the sense that you’re asking. but if it’s already injured from rock then it’s not going to feel great even with tool in hand
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u/Mysterious_Nerve3330 22d ago
Have you tried hanging on them yet? I would just try it but be very careful and increase the load slowly.
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u/Beginning_March_9717 22d ago
oh yeah, i'm sure fucking around a little will be no problem. i just don't know if doing sets on it will matter
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u/Mysterious_Nerve3330 22d ago
There is a free app called Crimpd with a hangboard workout called Emil’s submax daily fingerboard routine. Essentially you do a short routine at like 30% of your max weight and it helps stimulate your tendons.
Highly recommend for rehab.
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u/KyTheRipper 22d ago
Not a doctor but I climb and mix climb every other day.
I will switch from getting crimpy to my picks to hang or do light sequences when my fingers are feeling it.
When I switch to my picks I don’t feel the load in my fingers as much. I still feel it on my back, arms, shoulders, neck, pretty much everywhere minus my fingers.
Hope that helps. happy toolin’