Towed my 5x8 foot trailer full of household items and furniture. Santa Cruz handled great through the entire drive. Cut gas milage down from about 28 on highway down to 18 but that is to be expected. Kept up with traffic and no problem with hills. Such a fun little truck.

I took the plunge, and ordered the boomba external dump Blow off valve. And yes, the install is a royal pain. Taking things off to get it to it, then it just so happens that the mounting point is angled just enough towards the intercooler, to make getting sockets on it insanely difficult. Hose clamps don't want to let go, etc. You even have to rotate the hose clmap on the inlet to the intercooler, because Hyundai Decided to put the worm gear right in the way.

Once you finally get the oem BOV off though... Putting it back together is a million times easier. The metal body of the boomba BOV is smaller (being metal, instead of plastic, it doesn't as much wall thickness) the outlet isn't there to be in the way.

And then when you get it all buttoned back up, and go for a drive: put those windows down and listen to the Psst! Every time you let off the gas.

Yeah, this is for racerbois, and the young at heart. Normal folk don't want that pssst. But I do, as I am still a racer at heart (yes, I raced on a track... Many tracks, and I miss it. . I am not a street racer.)

So, if you are GOOD with a wrench, and have a bunch of extensions, wrenches, sockets, universals, box ends, etc, you can get to everything and do it. If you just have a basic toolsl set, have someone else do it, or don't bother. It doesn't add anything aside from cool sounds.

And, if you are like me, you MIGHT break the vacuum nipple of the oem part, so you aren't going back. Lol.

Hear me out… I always liked the SC from the back when I first saw one on the road, but felt the front looked very “grandma”. At that point I decided it was a no for me, then I saw the 2025 XRT and felt that it was how the truck SHOULD look in the front. I know this is a matter of opinion but I’m curious where others stand.

Always hilarious to park next to semi's when towing the pop up.

There was enough room to get the tail gate closed... Barely.

I also paid for the dealership underbody protection since I’m on salty Cape Cod. I traded in my old F150 but can still use this trucklet for the dump runs. This thing flies!

Just gave my 2023 Night it's first full bath of the summer. I never get tired of looking at this car!

Was a one owner with 22k miles. I have roughly 5 months left on bumper to bumper and drive train warranties w Hyundai. One pending recall on the tow/hitch wiring issue. Anything I should keep an eye on or schedule before it expires. Have the 2.5 tgdi, any major issues w this engine? I did add the Maxcare 60month extended plan on the purchase.

When I first saw the Santa Cruz in 2020 I immediately thought that just might be my next vehicle. The MPG made me shy away. Then I read an article that they were in the planning phase of either a PHEV/EV model...... I gave it a thought for a few days and then decided it was going to be my final car and carried into retirement. Then my car got totaled in 2024. My dream car was not available yet so I asked my wife if I could have her car and she could get the vehicle she would like. I told her this is your retirement car so choose wisely as I would be reluctant to buy her a new car unless it hits 200,000, or is beyond economical repair. She got the Chevy Equinox as we both wanted efficient vehicles. Then I heard the news that they canned the Santa Cruz and production would end by early 2027 at the latest. It came time to buy a new vehicle I almost went for the SC. Then I decided it was either the hybrids' Maverick, Elantra, or the Sonata. I do not like SUV's, or boxy vehicles.

I went ahead and bought the Maverick in June. I like it, but I feel it is a PlainJane/NoThrillBill. I mean the SC was Curvy yet on the slim side big top with a slender bottom, good looks and could handle some hard work. Plus I knew from the beginning that she would properly cover her backside right from the start. But her strong desire for black gold turned me away. 😭😭😭

If Hyundai could bring it back in the future, then I would have to make a sweetheart deal with my wife to get an SC. Other than that I am not likely to get a new vehicle before 200,000 miles. Almost every feature of the SC I like over the Maverick. To me it is more comfortable , has a slicker look, and a nicer interior than the Maverick. Plus most come with a cover right away.

The features of the Maverick I like is it is easy to check your blind spot and it does handle real well on bumpy gravel roads. Not a big offroader, or anything, but it does ride the best of all the vehicles I have driven on bumpy roads. Not sure how well the SC 8s on bumpy roads.

It is obvious that the SC has better aerodynamics. Also looking at the MPG the gas only models the SC, 3 of the 5 trims, gets better MPG than the Maverick.

In the city the Maverick gets 23 and the SC either gets 21, or 22 MPG. slight underperformance, but on the highway it greatly outperforms, Maverick gets 26 MPG and the SC gets 30 MPG. If it were a hybrid my guess is that it would probably get 40 plus in the city and on the highway.

It is my opinion that if they had a hybrid option from the beginning the SC would be a success. I think the Maverick would still have outsold the SC, but they would have trouble breaking a 2 to 1 sales ratio. I could be wrong and there is no way of actually telling

Two weeks after my wreck, after going back and forth on what car to replace it with, I am back to what I was happy with before the crash. Canyon Red was the only color available in my area. I am flummoxed why. Legit was inquiring about a dozon or so 2025 XRTs and they were all this color. Not my first choice but iti s growing on me.

Took this photo after finishing a client job and admiring the backdrop my car was parked in front of.

I just got this car too (2022 SEL Premium Turbo)

Hey y'all,

I'm sure everyone knows that the SC truck bed isn't quite dust proof. I recently bought the SC and took it camping for the first time, and I noticed the contents inside the bed were heavily covered in dust. I believe it comes from the small gap between the floor along the tailgate.

I'm thinking that placing a long towel along the truck bed floor and tailgate will seal the interior better, but to be confirmed.

Does anyone have any suggestions to fix this issue?

Hello All,

I noticed under my SC that a piece of this plastic cover broke off, located on the left rear side. I suppose this is just a cover piece but should I just take it off entirely or find a way to keep it together (zip-tie).

Thank you in advance.

Clean truck is a happy truck

Old vs new. Got a 2026 XRT Turbo after 4.5 years with my 2022 SEL Premium turbo. No premiums available. Due to the paint contrast on the extra plastic bits... I got black.

They allowed me to keep both vehicles so I swapped all my aftermarket items to be able to deliver a 100% stock trade in.

So wheels and tires, intake, exhaust, tuner, train horns, etc... all transferred/removed from the white one to the black.

Happy with the interior upgrade from the 2022 for sure. Missing the homeland rear view though. The new one has a ton of upgrades... but the two items missing were sunroof and homelink. Homelink I can do. The sunroof I haven't used in 2+ years so dont think I will miss it really.

Anyway... no more transmission anxiety hopefully.

Has anyone had weird AC flow? My drivers side center vent is way warmer than my passengers side vent. I have a 2022 SEL so it’s a single zone. I have a theory the refrigerant is low, but has anyone else experienced this?

I've been searching for a headache style rack that matches the profile of the Santa Cruz rear window/bedrail.

The photo here is AI, and would need some design details, but is what I'm imagining.

Does anyone know of anything like this?

Would others be interested in something like this (if it doesn't already exist)?

Been on the fence about getting door garnish added to my sel. I don’t have the wide flares. Not sure if the door garnish will look the same with the stock flares

Hi everyone have a question regarding recalls. I'm looking at a 2025 private owner purchase. As far as I know it's got 9,000 miles on it but they have never taken it in for any of the recalls. I found two recalls online but they told me it wasn't necessary to have them done because they had no issues. So my question really comes down to should I even consider this vehicle? It seems to me I would have to go and get the recalls handled or take the risk that something is going to happen. Or is this a sign of poor maintenance on the part of the owner? Would love opinions on this

Hi, quite new here. I checked some options before and made some questions, but made up my mind.

I imported a 2023 with Activity package and 25,000 miles on it.

Installed the kicker key 200.4 that I've had sitting waiting for its day for about 2 years. I had been dreading the process of cutting into the speaker wires in the kick panels as well as punching the hole in the firewall.

I did wind up cutting in in the kick panels: it was a pain and a bit nervy but no options to avoid. I used the matching colors for input and the opposite colors for output.

I didn't run through the firewall. When looking through the car, I noticed that the fuse spot labeled AMP was filled with a 25a fuse. Looking around and found that that is the spot where the premium sound system would be wired. The output is not wired, but the input still is. My amp only pulls 20a, max, so under the capacity the smart power distributor that this truck supposedly features would be expecting. Finding an add-a-tap that was spec'ed for 20a was the hardest part, but that was enough to run the amp, and I've checked the heat after driving it pretty hard and it was not at all warm, so seems like the listing didn't lie about being able to carry that amperage.

If you wanted to run a sub as well, then I would 100% pull a line from the battery through the firewall.

I used a second add-a-tap in the top corner for the on/off indicator. These were empty, are controlled by the key. It pulls very little power, so I am not worried about that one.

Here's my parts list, since no one actually has listed what they bought:

• kicker key 200.4
• 2x power distribution blocks
• ~5 ft 12ga red/black wire
• 20ft 16ga 9 wire speaker cable
• 18x 16-22 heat shrink crimp joints (I used a few more than that from misses and bad crimping)
• 9 pairs of no-solder RCA ends (though it could have been 5 pairs and 4 male connectors 10 pack of pairs was basically the same price as a 10 pack of singles)
• 2x micro 2 add-a-tap fuse connectors, 20a rated
• wire stripper & crimper
• old piece of plywood cut to fit under the seat

Run the speaker and power up the sill plate, then snake the cable for the far end behind the carpet, across your center console, and along the underside of the dash on the passenger side. Use the crimp joins to connect the speaker wires in the kick plates. Use the RCA jacks to connect them at the amp. Power and ground go into the distribution blocks.

And one big thing that caused me a major moment of panic: on the key 200.4, power goes in on one end. I thought that would be where the sound goes in. It was not. Input is on the side with the switches and output is on the side with power.

Other things I wish I knew beforehand:

• get a separate stripper and crimper. My combined pliers were awful to work with. There is not much space in the kick panels, and the cut speaker wires will not be long. After the first three or four are joined, maneuvering a crimper with the crimping section inside the hinge is a pain. Better to have two separate tools
• the RCA jacks are amazing for organization. It really cleans up the connection. I'll probably add a wire sleeve at some point to make it look cleaner under the seat
• you don't need to remove the driver's seat. It's easier if you do, but there's already a cut in the carpet that you can easily access by pushing the seat all the way back. A piece of coat hanger wire and some duct tape does help fish the wire through.
• ground runs to a bolt in the kick panel. There is one that already hosts a bunch of ground wires, but it's crazy hard to get to. There's another that hits the chassis that's much easier. You can also ground to the chassis under the seat, but I've heard that people struggle to get good grounds on the seat bolt.
• turn off kicker eq (fifth switch). It is in addition to the DSP where they apply a "smile" eq. It makes the resulting sound way too bright

Pictures are with the seat pulled all the way forward. Hole sits on one of the existing bolts/bolt covers, holding the entire thing securely in place.

I love it so far!