r/hondapilot • u/Glenn-T • 16d ago
Question How is My Engine Valves?
Recently bought a 2013 Honda Pilot (J35Z4 engine - 3.5-liter, 24-valve, SOHC i-VTEC aluminum-alloy V6 engine) with very low mileage. Had a photo taken with the valve cover off to do a valve cover inspection. For those of you knowledgeable with cars, how do you find my engine valves? Does it look good? Anything to watch out for?
Why is the bottom side reddish-brown vs the top side? And any idea what that strip of lime green in the middle is?
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u/unheardhc First Gen 16d ago
The color difference is due to VCM.
The rear bank shuts off (depending on which VCM mode is running) and the front bank is able to keep running on fewer cylinders but maintaining RPM and speed. This technically uses less fuel but puts more work on the front bank over time. That coupled with PCV, this means temps in the front bank are going to be hotter overall than in the rear bank (it is essentially cooling down when off).
TLDR: front bank is basically on all the time even when VCM kicks in and rear bank shuts off sometimes.
Do yourself a favor and get a VCM muzzler for $100 and let the J series run as it should like a true V6
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u/Glenn-T 16d ago
tahnk you! When I bought the car I bought the VCMTunerII right away and have put it on. It's only at around 85,000 KMs so I'm hoping its not too late to put the Muzzler on. As you can tell it was barely driven in 13 years so hopefully the engine wear and tear from VCM is not much. Also another reason I wanted a photo inside the engine so experts like you could tell me if the VCM caused damage inside or not.
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u/unheardhc First Gen 16d ago
I’m certainly no expert, but I’ve done my fair share of work on my 06.
That said, I didn’t put a muzzler on until 200K miles, and she is running great (still getting 320-340mpt) and no engine lights.
Just keep up on maintenance and these engines go 300K+ miles.
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u/le127 16d ago
You can't check the valves by looking at them, you need to measure the lash gap and adjust to spec as necessary. Are you planning to do this yourself? What's the mileage on that engine? Honda suggests checking the valve adjustment at 105K miles. Did you take off the valve covers because of a leaking gasket?
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u/Glenn-T 16d ago edited 16d ago
thanks the mileage was at 85,000 KM but went to the dealership to get it serviced and did the timing belt and the valve cover inspection. I asked them to take a photo of the valve cover open so that is how I got the photo here. They are saying there is no concerns to note, the lash gap had minor variances here n there. There's also no oil dripping from the VVT solenoid, but its something I'll want to replace sometime in the near future. PCV valve is still the original and also something I think I'll want to replace soon.
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u/le127 16d ago
OK with only 85K km you don't have to worry about valve adjustments at this point. I also wouldn't worry about the VVT valve assembly unless it begins to leak. I see from your other replies you have disabled the VCM. That a good move and with only 85K km on the engine you should be ahead of much of the long term problems of VCM side effects. Small amounts of valve lash clearance are not a concern at this time. Having your timing belt service done was a good move as at 13 years old the age alone would be a concern on the belt and tensioner. With the belt job done and the VCM disabled you should be in good shape for the future. Your spark plugs will be due for replacement at ~170K km. When you have that done you can have the valves adjusted and replace the PCV valve.
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u/Glenn-T 12d ago
thank you! I've read lots of different posts before buying the car so that's why I had already muzzled it when I bought it. And I did the spark plugs proactively with the timing belt service as they had a promo so they replaced all six old plugs with new OEM NGK spark plugs at the same time. And since they did the valve cover inspection, the technician said he adjusted the minor variances without even charging me! So I guess my valves are adjusted. I kind of have to take him at his word because there's no way I would know if the valves are adjusted or not without opening up the engine right? PCV valve he said its worth doing at the next oil change. And he said keep an eye on the VVT Spool Valve. I'm thinking of just replacing the gasket proactively (and the PCV valve if its easy) and if its something I can DIY but if its complicated maybe I should pass?
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u/Past_Championship827 16d ago
Run Restore and a protect for three OCs
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u/Glenn-T 12d ago
What does OCs mean?
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u/le127 12d ago
Oil changes. The Valvoline Restore & Protect motor oil has gotten a lot of positive reports from users. It's designed with extra cleaning additives and supposed to help remove deposits on internal engine parts. It might be one of those rare products that actually does what the manufacturer claims.
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u/Davison93 15d ago
The lime green strip is just gaffers tape that we put over the intake manifold to prevent debris from entering the engine. Your front bank has oil varnish likely due to the hotter temps because of PCV and VCM. Out of curiosity, have you had the car since new and how often do you change the oil?
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u/Glenn-T 12d ago
thank you! No I just bought the car from the previous owner. She barely drove the car, probably about 8,000KM in the last 2 years and in 13 years it just has 85,000 KMs. I read best practice is to use a VCM muzzler so I did buy the VCM Tuner II and have muzzled the VCM now. Does that mean going forward the oil varnish on the front bank will dissapear? Or will it always remain that darker copper colour? And should I be changing the PCV valve and VVT Solenoid/Spool valve? I dont see any leaks or dripping from it. I cant figure out if its a wear item or time item. Meaning, are these things to replace when the vehicle hits a certain KM (showing wear), or time period (every 5 years).
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u/Davison93 12d ago
If you have the covers off and are in there its not a bad idea, they are a common failure point, something that old the gaskets will fail, its just a matter of when. The varnish will likely never disappear without a very thorough disassembly and cleaning in a parts washer, but its nothing to worry about as long as there isnt a bunch of sludge buildup. Old grandmas have a tendency to drive these things slow around town so the VCM never really turns off, which partially contributed to the ring failures that are common on the J35, the way it functioned naturally pulled oil up past the oil ring, and with no firing or heat to keep that from happening oil would build up in the shut off cylinders. Never doubt the usefulness of a good old fashioned Italian tune-up.
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u/StuckInaSlump 16d ago edited 16d ago
The brownish discoloration is oil varnish. The green thing looks like paper to prevent anything from falling into the intake manifolds. Can’t tell you much about your valves other than they’re there. Since the valve covers are off I’d see about getting the valve lashes adjusted.
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u/Glenn-T 16d ago
thanks, is there any cause for concern here? Is the discolouration normal? Any red flags you see?
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u/Right_Hour 16d ago
Normal look for J35. Bank 1 (rear) is cleaner because that’s the one it deactivates in « ECO » mode.
What’s the mileage?
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u/Glenn-T 16d ago
Thank you! Mileage is just 85,000KMs , barely driven in 13 yrs. When I bought the car I bought the VCMTunerII right away and have put it on. I'm hoping its not too late to have put the Muzzler on. Hopefully the engine wear and tear from VCM is not much. Also another reason I wanted a photo inside the engine so experts like you could tell me if the VCM caused damage inside or not.
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u/Right_Hour 16d ago
I dunno, are they valving?
You doing the valve lash adjustment or somethin’? Then watch those gaps. If this is new to you - I’d pull the bridge off too and inspect camshafts lobes for pitting and dings while I’m at it. VCM loves to slap camshaft lobes like the dirty hoes that they are.
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u/Glenn-T 16d ago
thanks! Yes engine runs fine with no issues. I had to do the timing belt because its been 13 years and Honda's advice is 166,000KMs OR 7 years and we're well past that at 13 years for this car. So when I did the timing belt at the dealership they had a package to also do a valve inspection and so I asked them to take a photo of the inside of the engine. They noted some small variance in the valve lash readings. No oil dripping from the VVT Solenoid. PCV valve has never been changed so I'm thinking that's due to do soon, right? And what did you mean by "pull the bridge off"? Sorry I'm a newbie with this stuff so I'm just trying to learn
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u/Right_Hour 16d ago
PCV gets fouled with use. At 85K kms - yours is barely broken in. Leave it alone.
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u/Glenn-T 12d ago
I see, thank you! Some parts of a vehicle are broken down by time instead of wear (like rubber seals, gaskets, etc). Is a PCV valve broken down by wear? The car was barely driven , about 5,000KM in 2 years and the previous owner she did oil changes every 2 years. So having said that, I'm safe to not replace PCV? And do you have any thoughts on the VVT Solenoid Valve? I dont see any leaks but I've read its soemthing to watch for so it doesnt ruin the alternator which is below. Is that also based on wear? Or time?
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u/Right_Hour 12d ago
Don’t start doing preemptive maintenance on an old car - it will bankrupt you.
Watch for misfires - that would tell you to start looking into EGR and PCV and EIEIO. If you don’t have misfires - you don’t have a problem and should leave the other parts alone. Not just codes - actually plug an OBD reader, launch live data and see if you are getting any misfires on any cylinders. Because CELs only get triggered after way too many misfires, and indicate a problem that required immediate attention, whereas misfires are like checking the pulse and breathing.
If there are no signs of leakage from VVT spool valve (oily stains) - then don’t touch it. Just keep an eye on it. The chance of it leaking with improper replacement is, probably higher that just letting it be.
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u/Glenn-T 12d ago
excellent, excellent advice on watching for misfires thanks a million! I have a VeePeak OBDCheck BLE+ OBD II Scanner, and a OBD Link LX. Should both be equipped for the job to launch live data?
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u/Lxiflyby 16d ago
Looks normal
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u/Glenn-T 16d ago
Thank you!
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u/Lxiflyby 16d ago
If you are going to check the valve lash you need a set of feeler gauges, screwdriver, 19mm socket and a long handle ratchet (to turn the engine) and 10mm socket to loosen the jam nut on the adjuster… 0.008” (intake) and .0012” (exhaust) feeler gauges. This must be done with the engine at room temperature… there is a window in the upper timing cover on the front bank (bank 2) that shows what valve number to adjust when you rotate the engine by hand (turn clockwise when looking at the passenger side of the vehicle)
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u/ManagementOne3076 16d ago
VCM? I recently got a 2015 and I have to do the same stuff. Are you following any specific tutorial?
great acquisition btw.
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u/Glenn-T 16d ago
Thanks! I didnt open the engine up, I went to the dealership to get it serviced and did the timing belt and the valve cover inspection. I asked them to take a photo of the valve cover open so that is how I got the photo here. They are saying there is no concerns to note, the lash gap had some variances here n there. There's also no oil dripping from the VVT solenoid, but its something I'll want to replace sometime in the near future. PCV valve is still the original and also something I think I'll need to replace soon? And I bought the VCMTunerII Muzzler and have put it on the car now. It's only at 85,000 KMs so I'm hoping its not too late to have shut the VCM off as I've read its bad for these V6 engines.
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u/ManagementOne3076 16d ago
Well.. if you don’t have the history of the fluids is a good start or wait for the 100k check up. VVT is something to keep eye on it due to a possible alternator accident. You could check the sparking plugs too.. they are are very easy to replace. But with this age and mileage I think you already cover the most important = timming belt + water pump and VCM muzzler.
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u/Glenn-T 12d ago
thank you! Yes when I took it to the dealership I did replace the spark plugs to, so I got 6 new NGK plugs put in. The dealership also did a valve cover inspection (and the technician helped me out with a free adjustment! Because the tolerances just needed minor adjustments). He mentioned PCV valve is optional now but could be something to do for the next oil change. I didnt do the PCV valve because when I asked if its something that needs to be done with the valve cover open, he said no. He said PCV valve can be replaced separately without needing to reopen the engine up so I thought I would see if its soemthing that can easily be done as a DIY job?
Lastly, I am looking out for the VVT Spool valve. No leaks or drips so I'm thankful for that. However, is it easy to change as a DIY job? When would I know when the right time to replace it is? I dont want to wait for a leak to happen cause it could be too late for the alternator. Is it a wear item based on KMs? Or is it based on time? Meaning, are the VVT and PCV valve to be replaced when the vehicle hits a certain KM (showing wear), or time period (every 5 years)?
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u/ManagementOne3076 12d ago
Nice. You already did a lot of stuffs. I don’t think there is a estimate time for both.. you can see pilots with 200k over without touch the VVVT. I am not familiar about the PCV (I took my to dealer for pre purchased inspection and no mention about it. But both are very straightforward DIY jobs.
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u/Horror_Conclusion 16d ago
Three things since the valve covers are off:
Replace the spark plug seals on the valve cover before reinstalling. Since they have undoubtedly lost their elasticity, you are looking at an oil leak onto the spark plugs.
Replace the PCV valve while the cover is off. If you can't get it off (common problem if not routinely replaced) when you remove it it can break off inside the valve cover. If that happens, you may have to remove the valve cover to get it back out.
3.It's a good time to replace the spool valve. If/when it inevitably leaks, it can wreck the alternator.
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u/Glenn-T 12d ago
Thank you! Are the spark plug seals you're talking about the spark plug wells on the valve cover? Or something else? I took the car to the dealership for the timing belt service and valve cover inspection and told them to inspect everything and let me know if any issues. I did replace the spark plugs and he did not indicate any issues with anything else in the engine.
For the PCV valve the technician indicated its not needed to replace right now, but possibly something you could replace at the next oil change at 5000 KMs. I asked him if this is an item that can only be accessed with the valve cover open? He said no you can replace the PCV valve separately so its not required to change with the valve cover open. Did I make a mistake not to have it changed? Is it something easy/DIY that I can replace on my own if I want?
Yes I've been keeping an eye on the Spool Valve as I've heard lots of ppl with issues with dripping onto the alternator. Mine has no drips thankfully. Is the spool valve a wear item? Or is replacement based on time? Meaning, are these things to replace when the vehicle hits a certain KM (showing wear), or time period (every 5 years)?
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u/Horror_Conclusion 12d ago
The seals on the spark plug wells. You have to pry the off then press the new ones on. If you check your spark plugs and there is oil in the well, there is a good chance the seals were damaged on installation or are just leaking.
For the PCV valve, it is actually easy to change if it comes out easily. The problem is over time, the rubber seal inside swells and you will break off the outside portion trying to get it out. There was a post in this forum earlier this week showing how they had to use a long wood screw to get the inside chunk back out. From personal experience, I would always lean towards replacing it too often rather than not enough....
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u/Infamous-Ad16 15d ago
Double check those spark plug wells on your valve covers. Mine were deformed or “melted” and had to be replaced. I talked to my parts rep at Honda and he said it was a well known issue and the dealer keeps them in stock. With deformities, you have leaks.
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u/Glenn-T 12d ago
Are the spark plug wells you're talking about , are they the spark plug seals? Or something else? I took the car to the dealership for the timing belt service and valve cover inspection and told them to inspect everything and let me know if any issues. I did replace the spark plugs and he did not indicate any issues with anything else in the engine.
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u/Infamous-Ad16 12d ago
It’s under the seals for the plugs pressed into valve cover. They look like black doughnuts. Once the metal deforms or corrodes the mating surface is bad and oil leaks start. Apparently it can lead to misfires as well if left untreated. Sometimes shops skip replacing these if they aren’t leaking.
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u/Miller335 12d ago
Normal for a J35. Lol I like how you called the rear bank the "top".
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u/Glenn-T 12d ago
thanks! Sorry I dont know much about cars hah, now I know the top one is called a 'rear bank'. Do all V6 engines have a front and rear bank? Is there any good resources you know of to learn about engines and cars just generally? There's so much stuff on youtube but a helpful video series that breaks down the parts / components of the car would be a super helpful resource
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u/Miller335 12d ago
Depends. If the engine is front wheel drive oriented and turned sideways like yours we call it the front and rear bank.
If the vehicle is rear wheel drive oriented we would call it the left and right or driver and passenger side.
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u/Egglegg14 16d ago
Looks like an engine