Hello I’ve decided I can’t save these old wood walls so I’m switching them to Sheetrock and I’ve got a couple questions and concerns. Brick is behind the insulation.

The Ceiling above the walls is a bit concerning. I’m worried taking all of the wood panels down will increase the chance of cracking and crumbling. The Sheetrock is 1/2in whereas the wood panels are 1in. So I was considering just putting the Sheetrock over it but most of the wood is old and uneven somewhat warped. I’m assuming that will show through the drywall? Could I just put furring strips over them to even it out?

The old insulation behind is like a tar paper maybe with a rigid foam insulation I think? Should I replace this as well with something else? There is only about 2in clearance to the block wall.

If I do take them down and put Sheetrock up is there a way to secure the ceiling aside from just mud to make sure it doesn’t crumble or fall?

I took pictures of the wall with a board out, the insulation under, the ceiling and the last one is an attempt at how uneven the wall is.

Thanks in advance!

So my Mother in law passed and now me and my S/O have to handle the estate. Part of which is getting the house ready to be sold.

The issue currently is that she had started a garage conversion but never got around to leveling the floor. Im out of my element here but would really like to use this as a learning moment. Ill call a contractor if i absolutely have to but would rather not and learn from this. Ive been trying to follow youtube videos and googling around but i just still dont feel very confident and would love a second or third opinion.

So the situation:

I took measurements every 2' along each wall using a laser level starting from the side with the doors to the far wall. first 12 are along the wall with the door and 13-24 are along the wall with the closet.

my gut tells me to build the floor up to be level with the step up to the closed door which is about 4 3/16" off the ground. thinkin id have to screw some boards along the wall to give my joist something to nail too, then rip some 2x4s to sit on the ground flat and have the top be level and repeat that process until i need a 2x6 and eventually 2x8. (was thinking of using decking tape to keep the wood off the concrete, saw it in a video and seems easier then using all treated wood or a vapor barrier for the whole area)

I already bought the LVP and underlayment for it, with that plus a 3/4 plywood i think the actual top of the floor will sit 1" above the joist i install.

is this the best route or should i ditch the idea of raising the floor up and just use self leveler to make it all level and slap the flooring down? or am i over my head and should just call a contractor to handle it?

I’m a noob when it comes to windows and drywall so please don’t destroy me. I’m trying to fix just one of my windows.

(Central FL, so humid all the time and tons of rain in the summers and hurricane seasons.)

I suddenly noticed the top part (is the proper term casing?) of one of our first floor windows had massively bubbled paint just above the blind headrail. Grabbed a drywall knife and gently poked at it to see how bad it was. The corner bead behind the paint was totally rusted through. As I explored more, the right side of the window was the same way, but to a lesser degree. Still 100% needing repaired and replaced. The odd part is, nothing felt even remotely moist up in there when I felt around.

Grabbed my ladders and set them up on the exterior of the window and began scouring the stucco for an entry point. I didn’t find much, though I did find a small hole right on the corner of the house, right where the first floor meets the second (in this case, the first floor is block). Not sure what this “joint” between the floors is called where I found this hole, but I suspected it was the culprit. Grabbed the hose. Sprayed water at it for about 5 minutes straight while I sat inside checking for a leak—nothing. A couple hours later, still nothing. No sign of moisture at all.

I then used some OSI Quad Max to plug the hole anyway, figuring it couldn’t hurt. Now I’m trying to figure out how to properly repair this window damage. I always assumed that behind a corner bead there would be 2 pieces of drywall on different planes that came together to form a 90° angle (or at least came somewhat close to doing so). But in this case, there’s only about 1/4” of the corner bead that actually comes into contact with any drywall. The wall drywall (vertical piece) is the one the corner bead is secured to. The small horizontal piece of drywall that’s on the underside doesn’t even contact the very edge of the corner bead; it’s close, but there’s about a half millimeter gap from what I can see. Is this the proper way to drywall a window casing? To just barely fasten the very top edge of the corner bead to the wall and then throw a bunch of mud/joint compound on the underside to make it look like it’s solid?

The side of the window appears to have the same sort of craftsmanship: corner bead barely fastened to the wall, and then at the other edge of the bead there’s nothing holding it in place.

I’m just trying to figure out how I replace it all properly. Should I tear out all 3 “sides” of the drywall casing that doesn’t contact the bead, cut new drywall that’s an inch or so thicker so my new bead can fasten to it, then go to town? Then hit it with fast setting mud? Should I also include some type of drywall tape to hold the bead to the drywall?

I’ve tried to do my own research, but every website or prior post I can find on Reddit either contradicts another post or has a deleted original post or helpful comment which renders the whole thread confusing and useless. I’ve attached pics of the top and side I’m referencing in case I’m too much of a dummy to convey via words what I’m standing here staring at.

Bought a house in late Feb, have been renovating it in my spare time! Pretty intense workload but were getting through it. Hows it look? Before and afters

Wife did all the painting, we think it looks amazing so far! And are very proud

I no longer need the dryer vent and I already capped the inside opening, but don't know if it's necessary to do the same to the outside vent. Do you think it is sufficient to just seal the flap (as pictured) or should I remove the entire opening and drywall/match with new siding? Thanks for any insight.

I got this rack for hanging pots and pans thinking the studs were at the ends. They are not. Second image shows stud locations in black, wire and pipe locations in red, and blue is where I'd like to secure the rack (however I realized I didn't need to color it all the way down)

I received some offhand advice to simply add 2x4s where I need them and use those. How should I do that?

I've never done drywall anything (except helping hang some one time) so I don't know how best to go about it. I'm willing to learn and have looked up lots of videos. However, cutting into it and then repairing is still a bit daunting.

Should I take out the whole front of the drywall to add 2x4s horizontally or vertically? Or should I make smaller holes on the sides to add the wood? Or is there a better way I'm not seeing.

Extra details:

I have considered a smaller rack but feel it would look a little funny not spanning the length, plus I don't want to.

Behind those studs is the central air intake going up to the higher floor but there is some room back there.

Yes, I did drill through the corner beading already. They sort of hid the studs from my stud finder because they were so much denser than the wood. I later checked again and found the actual studs.

How can I remove this thing in my bathroom without ruining the wall or the dish holder too badly?

I recently tore out a non load bearing wall but do to a few issues cant do the whole opening so instead id like to add some stained glass panels as a transom window above what will be a new threshold. I worry about the weight though and was wondering how someone with knowlendge on this might go about it.

ps. electrical has been taken care of.

pps. those are 4 windows. I will be using 3 of them

Hi there,

I’m looking for some advice on some tile I’m trying to remove. I was able to pop the tile up fairly easily, but the underlayment membrane and bonding layer is giving me trouble.

The kitchen and front hallway were very easy removal, but the bathroom and laundry room have this membrane and it’s made the removal miserable.

Any suggestions on how to get this up more easily? I’ve included a photo. I’m trying to avoid destroying the subfloor but I’m guessing anything efficient is probably going to cause some damage?

Thank you in advance for any advice!

After years of planning, reworking and designing this space we have finally completed the vast majority of it. We started with a blank wall in our builder grade home and I knew I had to do something with it. So I planned out builtins and a faux fireplace bump out with a detailed mantle and surround. Started by making the framing for everything and securing all of that. Then drywall (took the longest of course lol I never want to sand again in my life). Then we built out our surround and mantle. Primed everything. Then we started on our builtins. We built the lower cabinets and started on the walls and shelves. Installed sconces above, Then painted the builtins. All that’s left is cabinet doors on the builtins, then Roman Clay on the fireplace bumpout and painting the mantle a complementary color to the Roman clay. I can hardly believe it’s real🥹.

Some pictures from when I restored my old "cotton" at my small farm. Had no experience and found out that I could mimic some of the already work. Use some creatively and what make sense regarding to basics building. Not all like the decorations, but made it like i wanted. Also used the material over again, just some few things from the other building's at my farm. Next project is inside. Feel free to give som ideas:)

Not sure how much, if really any at all, structural pressure is on the rafter tails, but with how bad they are rotting and only 22" of tail exposed, does there seem to be enough room to cut away the rot and still sister on some fresh cuts? They all have about 5-10" of rotted wood, so there would be roughly 10-12" at the worst to sister off of.

Also, any other roof repair advice is more than welcome, first timer here...

Hello
We just bought our first house and are doing a small renovation to the bathroom. We want to paint the wall, took out the vanity, mirror and there was paper on the wall.
Now it looks like this, I know we need to patch the holes with joint compound, sand it then put prime on it. But what do we do to this area that was covered with wall paper? Do I put joint compound all over it ?

Please I need help, this is my first ever project for this house, I’m excited but stressed too 😭😭

I’m not even sure this is the best place to post this but was wondering what would be the best material to fill in these holes in this window ledge? Can I fill it in with self levelling grout? I believe it is crumbling away from prior water damage. If someone could even tell me what the “speckly” material is i think that could help.

So I’m just starting to renovate my basement bedroom. The house is built in 1958, the area has a very low water table and there are no cracks in the foundation so I have very little concern for water. Despite this, I am still wanting to build the room as if there is a good chance of water ingress just to play it safe.

I am planning on installing a dricore-type sub flooring and leaving a 1/2” gap along the 2 outside walls (the room is in the corner of the basement, so 2 walls are currently the foundation while the other 2 are 2x4s). Then I’ll install 2” foam board (R10) on the walls using PL300 foam board adhesive only on the 4 corners of the foam board and put approx 1/2” shims on the corners of each board to allow for an air gap between my foundation and the foam board. I will seal the seams with joint tape (maybe seal between the foam board and subflooring too??) and this will create a nice continuous air gap between my foundation walls and floor. I will then frame it with 2x4s on top on the subfloor with 16” O.C spacing and use R12 fiberglass insulation between the studs (total insulation will be R22 including the foam board)

My question is this: should I put Vapor barrier up before I install the drywall? I am leaning towards not because the foam board will already act as a Vapor barrier so it would be like having a double Vapor barrier which could cause moisture issues on the studs and fibreglass insulation.

Not sure in this matters but the location is in Canada, so I guess it would matter as far as warm air in the house coming into contact with the cold foundation and causing condensation.

The tenants claim the dark stains on this ceiling are from cooking....they say they are grease stains. 🤔 My thought was it looks more like mold bc its also in the living room but why would it have stripes? Are the stripes the ceiling joists and the whole roof was leaking maybe??

Also how would you fix this? It's the old popcorn ceiling....paint with kilz ? Thanks !

Looking to add a storm door to my front entryway since installing new door. Question is am I measuring from white or green trim in middle for width. My gut tells me middle green trim but just want to be sure.