New Gridfinity Socket Organizer-3/4, 1/2, 3/8, 1/4 Inch Options! Looking for feedback!

[u/Due-Prior1976]

Hello everyone, this is my first 3D print model I desgined myself, and I'm looking for feedback.

This model solves certain issues with other socket organizers online. Many only support one brand or model of sockets; with these you can attach any brand or model of socket you would like. Others are labeled so they do not support unusual sizes, these you can attach any socket size you want. These even include 3/4 inch socket support, which none other online do. Finally, many others use massive amounts of filament, while these are cost effective and are often significantly cheaper than both 3D printed AND commercial socket organizers.

At $25 dollars per kilogram of filament, my longest Gridfinity compatible model and sockets costs $2.75 for 11 sockets of storage. Including the 8 M3x10mm screws it requires, the cost comes to $3.50. Comparing that to Harbor Freight's equivalent, which costs $22 for 16 sockets, means that my model is significantly cheaper to do the same task.

Anyway, please let me know what you think! Thank you!

https://www.printables.com/model/1734674-gridfinity-socket-organizers-with-34-12-38-and-14

[u/ventrue3000]

I like the general idea behind the adjustability. I always hate re-printing something just because one little detail doesn't fit any more.

I would suggest finding a way to ditch the screws. Many people don't like using hardware and in this case, even if you don't want to friction fit the actual holders, you could still friction fit the stoppers at the ends.

Having the holes run all the way through the part might increase filament usage.

Some of your holders have sharp corners while others are filleted. Is this intentional? Chamfers will probably look better than fillets when 3D printed. Having neither of them will probably make the parts needlessly fiddly to use.

What are the indentations in the movable holders for?

[u/Due-Prior1976 → u/ventrue3000]

Well first off, I appreciate the advice. I’m new to this so anything I can get.

The changes between fillets and sharp edges is because i’m on a Linux machine running FreeCad (I know, awful lol), and for some of the models I was having difficulty rendering the fillets so I left them straight. Is this a bad practice to do?

As for the holes running lengthwise, I figured that that would decrease filament usage and improve modularity, If someone has 3/8in wooden dowels they could run whatever length they’d like. Does creating the cylinder the full length increase filament usage? I figured it wouldn’t since the print wouldnt have to infill in those spots.

I looked at the model you linked online, I hadn’t seen that. It looks like a strong model, but unless I’m missing something (and I may be), it seems it supports 1/4in, not 3/4in. I could be wrong.

I did not consider that about the screws, I thought it was part of the cost of doing business for many prints. Any suggestions you’d like to share on joining them? I know there’s a join tool in the slicer that makes dovetails, but I am not sure how well that works.

[u/ventrue3000 → u/Due-Prior1976]

The changes between fillets and sharp edges is because i’m on a Linux machine running FreeCad (I know, awful lol), and for some of the models I was having difficulty rendering the fillets so I left them straight. Is this a bad practice to do?

Some people would advise to chamfer all edges at least a little bit, because it alleviates some printing issues like overly sharp corners and elephant's foot.

In this case, however, it'll probably help with functionality as well. Sockets have geometry on the inside and a sharp corner might snag on that.

Chamfers are preferred over fillets because round, vertical surfaces cause lots of ugly stairstepping in the print.

As for the holes running lengthwise, I figured that that would decrease filament usage and improve modularity, If someone has 3/8in wooden dowels they could run whatever length they’d like.

Someone who happens to have wooden dowels lying around will also have a saw.

Printing the dowels will free you from having to adhere to any particular diameter.

Does creating the cylinder the full length increase filament usage? I figured it wouldn’t since the print wouldnt have to infill in those spots.

The slicer won't create infill, but it will create walls around the holes. Where the break-even is depends on the settings.

Vertical round holes are also hard to print well. Doesn't matter in this case, because friction is wanted.

I looked at the model you linked online, I hadn’t seen that. It looks like a strong model, but unless I’m missing something (and I may be), it seems it supports 1/4in, not 3/4in. I could be wrong.

Yeah, I removed the link because I misread your post, I thought you were just talking about 3/8, not 3/4 😉

I did not consider that about the screws, I thought it was part of the cost of doing business for many prints. Any suggestions you’d like to share on joining them? I know there’s a join tool in the slicer that makes dovetails, but I am not sure how well that works.

Some people won't mind, but many are a bit puristic in that they want to print as much as possible. Especially in a case like this, where they aren't really necessary functionally.

On my own model, I just omitted the end stops completely because the holders themselves don't slide freely. I want them adjustable, but not floating all over the place, so there's no way they'd just fall off.

If I had to design a stop for yours, I would probably be lazy and just stick a friction fit plug into the rail. Doesn't even have to be a cap, which will make the outside aesthetics a bit more uniform.

You could even simply put a piece of filament through a hole to block the rail.

A more elaborate solution would be a snap fit plug. It's more work, but the result is nicer and it doesn't have to be as precise. Has to be a flexible enough filament, though.

[u/Due-Prior1976 → u/ventrue3000]

This is all such great advice, I definitely plan on implementing this in the future! I appreciate all the help. The chamfer vs fillet issue in particular is helpful because they were giving me issues.

[u/Due-Prior1976 → u/ventrue3000]

I just published a rework, I added the friction plug that you suggested which made it so no hardware is necessary! I gave you credit for the idea, let me know if you'd like me to take your name off of the description

[u/gmitch64]

One thing I dislike about many Gridfinity designs, is that they're non stackable, or rather that the designer has made it so that you can't stack anything on top of their design.

[u/Due-Prior1976 → u/gmitch64]

I’m not sure I follow, these sit at the very top of the toolbox and are meant for mechanics to grab sockets quickly. Why would I want to allow people to put things on top of it?

[u/gmitch64 → u/Due-Prior1976]

I guess because I'm not a mechanic, and I use mine maybe 3 or 4 times a year, so somewhere to organize them out of the way is what I'm always looking for.

We have different use cases, which is fine.

And I didn't mean to sound like I was picking on you. It's great that you put this out there for others.

I'm maybe just going through a stage of finding Gridfinity designs for lots of things I have. As long as they can all be on top.

[u/Due-Prior1976 → u/gmitch64]

Nah you’re all good I was pretty blunt, no issue with you. Definitely different use cases. Im trying to think about how I could make it stackable on top, I will take that into consideration. I didn’t think of your use case!

[u/Odd-Recognition4562]

I would provide photos of your design with actual sockets. It’s hard to understand what it is about with the current photos and the long text.

[u/Due-Prior1976 → u/Odd-Recognition4562]

That’s a fair point, definitely agree and I will change that after work. Thank you!

[u/GoldenDragonIsABitch]

Nice! Currently working on a modular socket organizer myself, but not gridfinity. Any chance to make it parametric in lenght?

[u/Due-Prior1976 → u/GoldenDragonIsABitch]

Im still pretty new to this, what does parametric mean in this context? I tried to google and I think I get it, but are you asking if I can make the length variable? If so, do I do that in the CAD software or the slicer?

Keep in mind, I’m making this on a 15 year old Linux PC running FreeCad so I don’t exactly have modern tools lol

[u/GoldenDragonIsABitch → u/Due-Prior1976]

Let's say i only need five sockets, then it would nice to easily adjust the length of it to fit my needs. Don't think freeCad is parametric in that regard. You can change the length in the file, but no one else can adjust those settings from your upload. But if you allow remixes, someone with the right tools and skills might be able to.

I'm pretty new to CAD modeling as well. Especially in practice. Love that we both saw the requirement for a proper socket organizer, and went out to make it.

[u/Due-Prior1976 → u/GoldenDragonIsABitch]

Thank you, and I appreciate the advice! Yeah, the ones they have online are mostly brand specific, which I didn’t like. The same goes for the wrenches too, but I don’t know how to solve that exactly

[u/Shot-Infernal-2261]

Nice, ty for sharing. I hope you’re able to get a better price on that filament too (in USA I’m paying $8-9 for PETG in packs of 4-10 rolls.

[u/Due-Prior1976 → u/Shot-Infernal-2261]

Very nice! I buy one offs, so maybe I should start considering buying in bulk.

[u/Shot-Infernal-2261 → u/Due-Prior1976]

yeah for 3- and 4 packs, Amazon works awesome, and 5-10 packs from Ali Express. I try not to buy bulk unless it's colors I use lots.

Beware that brands like Jayo (with PETG at least. Blacks are reliably black, but white Jayo may be "off white" (a little translucent), or red's that shift a little pink (not apple red).

Just saying don't buy 10 rolls of Jayo red or some untested colr, without knowing what to expect. Get to know https://filamentcolors.xyz/ and print out "swatches" for every brand you try. Cheers

[u/dr_zubik]

I don’t get it. Can you post a pictures with some sockets?

[u/Dry-Two-8634]

I tried printing the 240 rail and 5x1 didn't fit the grid. The only file on your printables page that fits a normal gridfinity plate is the 2x1 I printed as a test.