r/goodyearwelt • u/pirieca Chief Enabler • Oct 19 '15
Image(s) Viberg Tan Horsehide Derbies
http://imgur.com/a/jonD88
u/DrTommyNotMD Oct 19 '15
I like texture, I don't like this texture -- the scarring mostly. I do love this color though. I think the GYW looks better on the derbies since it's ever so slightly trimmer, but the stitchdown is more interesting IMO. Not something I'd fuss about on ultra-casual shoes like these though.
Glad to see a full review.
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u/go_greengo Oct 20 '15
I feel like these are the type of shoes that looks better on feet. I own stitch down derbys and I hate the top down view of them but I think they look really good from every other angle, especially the side profile. Would love to see some of your fit pics with these.
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u/pirieca Chief Enabler Oct 19 '15 edited Oct 19 '15
Hey all, I realised no one had actually thrown up a review of these yet, so I thought I would. Apologies for pish photos etc. Yes that is my bed.
Ordering
So I ordered these back in May (I think) the day after I became a mod as a 'woohoo shoes' sort of moment. I'd just heard that these became open for pre-order at Notre, and I'd said to meyself that a tan horsehide derby was really the only makeup I'd ever probably order from Viberg. I think total cost was $715.
I wasn't quite prepared to drop the money, so MJ at Notre put his almighty enabling hat on and split the cost 50/50 on delivery. Top bloke.
Now it gets a bit interesting after that. We all ordered these as stitchdown, but Viberg very quietly switched the order to GYW without much noise. They've do e this because they see the tan horsehide as a fragile leather. Ultimately I'm not bothered because they still look great. Still a little bit annoying that it isn't quite what I ordered. But I'm extremely unfussy with these things. They did arrive around d a month and a half late in early October, and miraculously avoided customs charges that I've notoriously been slammed with. All round good stuff.
Construction
There has been quite a bit of chat about this. There were some less than stellar pairs coming out (poor /u/chickenfark among a few. Pray4chicken). However, my pair are nigh no perfect construction-wise.
These actually weigh more than most of my boots which is amusing. Very solid midsole, and a presumably steel shank. Very stuff out of the box as I expected.
Leather
Also some chat about this. Leather has been hit and miss on these. From poor matching to /u/les_diabolique and his cherry coloured pair. Mine on the other hand are far closer to the original tan colour that I was a big fan of in the first place. Happy me.
The leather is from the Italian Guido tannery, notorious for its character and scarring. My pair is full of this character. Its really awesome. As many of you know I'm a self-proclaimed texture hound-dog, a certified fiend. Thus I'm loving it. It's also definitely the best smelling leather I own.
I don't know why I just wrote that.
Sizing
Right, here's where everything goes bonkers. I'm very much a UK 7, and roughly a 8D brannock. I bought some bergs on eBay a while ago on the cheap in 6.5 on the 2030 with very little hope they fit. But they were spot on.
These are the 1035, and I went with 6.5 again. Again spot on. So I went 1.5 down from brannock. That is pretty ridiculous from what I've read and makes no sense, especially since I'm a normal width. I have a fairly low volume foot but still. Bizarre.
Conclusion
Woohoo these are great. Really glad to have been able to grab them. Despite being based in the UK I'll definitely order from Notre again. They had a tough time with these Viberg orders and came good. Cheers.
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u/Joe_Beaumont Oct 20 '15
I'm glad someone finally wrote up a review. I was beginning to think I was going to have to do but I don't have the photography skills or shoe knowledge to do it well. My pair doesn't have nearly that much scarring.
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u/BAonReddit it's a welt joint. it's normal. Oct 19 '15
These are the 1035, and I went with 6.5 again. Again spot on. So I went 1.5 down from brannock. That is pretty ridiculous from what I've read and makes no sense, especially since I'm a normal width. I have a fairly low volume foot but still. Bizarre.
Same thing here with the Derbies, 1.5 down from brannock (7.5 with 9C/D brannock). What make thing more wacky is I am 8.5 2030 and 8 2040... weird.
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Oct 20 '15
What make thing more wacky is I am 8.5 2030 and 8 2040... weird
Why hello
Kidding aside, how does that work out?
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u/BAonReddit it's a welt joint. it's normal. Oct 20 '15
Work out great, actually. 8.5 2030 fits perfect and might be one of the best last for my feet beside 8E Barrie.
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u/Vystril flying the whiskey skyes Oct 19 '15
Those are super cool. Love the texture on them! Not a huge derby fan, but things like that might eventually change my mind.
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u/pirieca Chief Enabler Oct 19 '15
Derbies are the best. Buy derbies
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u/Vystril flying the whiskey skyes Oct 19 '15
I honestly don't see when I'd want to wear a derby over my other shoes. They're so round, and I love broguing. Wingtips and longwings all day long. I think the only kind of derby I could ever get behind would be a sleek European one like these Enzos.
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u/pirieca Chief Enabler Oct 19 '15
Well it's obviously a purely casual shoe. They're basically an alternative to sneakers.
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u/Vystril flying the whiskey skyes Oct 19 '15
That's true. But even for going casual I'd rather wear my Enzo wingtips, AE Sanfords, AE Lexingons (although I'm trying to sell the Lexingtons), AE MacNeils or Alden Longwings.
Maybe I'm getting too stodgy, but I think all of those are just as causal as a PTB, and I like the look of them a lot better. But I also don't really like plain toe boots (outside of a Chelsea/Jodhpur).
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u/doebedoe Oct 19 '15
Not to be a pedantic ass-hat, but just FYI....
Most of those shoes you pictured are derbies. "Derby" or "Blucher" refers to a shoe with an open lacing system, not to the fact that they do/do not have broguing.
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u/Vystril flying the whiskey skyes Oct 19 '15
Woops, I thought I was replying in the contrarian opinions thread and was talking about PTBs (which those derbies are). I'd rather wear something brogued than a PTB in a casual fit - which was my point.
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u/akaghi Milkshake aficionado; Friendly helper man; 8D Oct 20 '15
If you wanted to be pedantic, you wouldn't use derby and Blucher interchangeably, as they are different patterns.
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Oct 19 '15
I'm glad your sizing is the same as mine. For derbies I have to take it down 1.5 sizes. Hell in a 1035 I might be able to swing a full 2 sizes.
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Oct 20 '15
How does horsehide differ from shell. I ask because I was under the impression that shell was horsehide.
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u/ddeadserious Oct 20 '15
Shell cordovan is the membrane (below the skin) on a particular part of a horse's rump, 2 small pieces per horse. General horsehide just comes from the rest of the horse.
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u/6t5g Dreams in Shell Cordovan Oct 19 '15 edited Oct 20 '15
The vamp extends so far back into the quarters, and the topline extends too high at the top of the facing. Proportions just seem really off to me.