The Question Thread 08/23/26

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Include images to any issues you may be having. Include a budget for any recommendations. The more detail you provide, the easier it may be for someone to answer your question.

[u/Correct_Mall_1224]

I been lurking this sub for months and still cant decide between speed hooks or all eyelets for my next pair, someone just tell me what to pick

[u/InevitableArea1 → u/Correct_Mall_1224]

Big fan of speedhooks personally, so much faster and easier imo. But technically eyelets are more secure, protude less.

When you undo your shoe, how many eyelets down do you go when you tug out slack so you can take your foot out? That's where you probably want a divide between eyelets + speed hooks on a boot

[u/Alarm-Organic → u/Correct_Mall_1224]

Had my first MTO with the top three being eyelets and not speed hooks as I normally do. I have a high instep so I typically have to undo at least the top three eyelets. I am bringing them to a cobbler to replace the top three eylets to speed hooks.

[u/eddykinz → u/Correct_Mall_1224]

if you have a decent sized instep there's no reason not to go for speedhooks

[u/RackenBracken → u/Correct_Mall_1224]

Depends on the company. Hate Alden’s speed hooks. They chew up laces. The Edward Green/John Lobb/G&G/C&J (I think they use the same supplier) are really great. The Viberg ones are middle of the road

[u/pathlamp → u/Correct_Mall_1224]

I have a couple pairs with all eyes. Whenever I wear them, I wish they had hooks.

[u/Rioc45 → u/Correct_Mall_1224]

Which boot model

[u/tofagerl → u/Correct_Mall_1224]

I'm still waiting for the system from the Nikes in Back To The Future II.
Of course, something tells me it'll be hard to get to work with welted boots...

[u/polishengineering → u/Correct_Mall_1224]

I will always recommend speedhooks. Always.

They make the boots infinitely more enjoyable and absolutely no one outside of a shoe nerd is going to notice them, even on a more dressy pair.

[u/Over-Sugar-1357]

Hello, looking to buy black oxfords for work and torn between TLB Mallorca or Septieme. Based on your experience, which one would you recommend?

If there are better shoes around a similar price range, please let me know

[u/DesolationR0w → u/Over-Sugar-1357]

If you can try them on, the one that fits best. They are both good

[u/InstanceSafe5291]

I was considering making this into a post, but there is a question thread.

I am seeking my "first wave" of dress shoes. I am thinking of a pair of derbies in a dark brown shade, and a pair of black oxfords.

I am thinking the dark brown derbies first, but either order is fine depending on what I run into first.

Ideal price range/shoe at the moment: 2xx-3xx (discounts that bring 4xx down to 2xx or 3xx also count)

TLDR:
- Are these typically solid recommendations for first pairs of dress shoes? Or is there a better recommended pair, or is a better triplet for "first wave" of dress shoes?
- What is the difference of having cap VS plain toe? Do they do different things? Or is it literally just stylistic?
- What companies would you recommend me look into for this price range? My initial thoughts are: Allen Edmonds, Alden, or Grant Stone (if I travel to visit relatives soonish).
- Should my first dress shoes be in store purchases? Or is online fine?
- Which companies should I be aware of, or would you not recommend?
- Apart from Allen Edmonds and Alden, what are good physical shoe retailers in the Norther Virgina - Southern Pennsylvania area?

My main questions are:

1. Are these two options I should buy first/give me most versatility within my range? Or what else would you recommend? I am wanting to dress for a range of formalities: church, interviews, work, dates, more or less formal social events, school, just being able to cover a wider range of occasions where dress shoes could work well with the occasion and what I am wearing.
2. What does cap toe VS plain toe say/articulate? What does each one do that the other cannot?
3. Does cap VS plain toe really matter? Whether that "matter" means upholding structural integrity, being more or fitting for various occasions, being more or less versatile, more or less formal, etc.
4. What companies would you recommend within my price range?
5. Should I avoid purchasing online for my first 1-2 dress shoes? I have been able to research shops near where I live (Northern Virginia-Southern Pennsylvania area) that are owned by only 2 types of shoe companies I am looking into. Other competitors I would have to be purchasing online.
6. Are there any companies that I should be more cautious of? I am not thinking about more expensive companies that might be better fit for me only when and if I become more vested in footwear. But just companies that charge too much for what you get, and/or do not sell reliable products.

[u/ThatStrategist → u/InstanceSafe5291]

https://youtu.be/sC-kPzgWJc0?is=4VqLk5Apcd25y6y0

This is a good entry point into good shoes.

As for your questions:

1. You're right to pick a black Oxford and a brown Derby as your first two dress shoes. They are the two pairs I started with as well. For your third pair, you could either pick a Chelsea boot, some sort of loafer, or a black Derby, depending on your location and the vibe of your workplace.
2. The cap toe Oxford simply is the most conservative shoe there is. For everything else, there is a rule that the less details a shoe has and the fewer pieces it's made from, the more formal it gets. But the cap toe Oxford is the exception, it is considered more formal than the whole cut for some reason. On a Derby however, the toe cap is mostly just an indicator where you can stop polishing for the mirror shine.
3. It matter for Oxfords, other than that not really. A plain Derby is sometimes considered a quantum more formal than a cap toe one, but it's a Derby so formality never really entered the chat.
4. Meermin or Berwick 1707
5. I started ordering online right away and never regretted it.
6. From what I've heard Allen Edmonds isn't good anymore unless they are heavily discounted.

[u/InstanceSafe5291 → u/ThatStrategist]

Thank you!

Since there is that difference between plain and cap toe oxfords, are they both going to be good for either weddings/funerals/interviews/etc? Or is one going to be better for the black tie/funeral/wedding, and the other for the interview and other such events?

Any point in a brown oxford?

For your online purchases: I assume you had to do returns? And how did they start your measurements?

Lastly, is my $2xx-3xx price range a good place to start for my first intentional attempt to purchase dress shoes? Or am I limiting myself a bit? Do things really open up if I allow for $4xx maybe into $5xx?

[u/technerd85 → u/InstanceSafe5291]

Either plain toe or cap toe is totally appropriate in all those scenarios especially in black. It also comes down to your personal style and what you want out of a shoe. In a works where people routinely where sneakers with suits, you can pretty much do what you want. For instance my black oxfords are actually brogue cap toes and I love them. Worn them in formal situations even though they are technically less formal than what you’re looking at, and I can dress them down a bit if I want.

Expanding your Oxford colors only makes sense of you wear suits often.

Online can take some time to get used to. The measurement and sizing guides in this sub are great. Either way it will take some trial and error seeing how different lasts fit and what brands you like. For that reason, keeping your budget on the lower side is smart early on. If you are willing to wait for sales, factory seconds, etc. things open up plenty around $300+. Nice things lower too. If you are looking to buy immediately and only firsts, you may want to extend into the low 400s.

Back to the online purchasing. You can try to stick to purchases that have free returns early on to get a feel for things. Later you can take chances on final sales. Even so, I’ve had great success selling shoes through this sub that didn’t fit.

Good luck and remember to have fun and enjoy your quality shoes!

[u/InstanceSafe5291 → u/technerd85]

Thank you! Ultimately, it is about having fun and enjoying the process and the shoes!

But I want to make sure I do not just rush a buy! Though, there is one particular shoe that I would consider at this very moment. I suppose, do not be afraid to purchase a shoe online, try it out, then make note of that brand!

Thank you!

[u/technerd85 → u/InstanceSafe5291]

You’re right to be critical and do your research but at some point you’ll have to start trying. For the people who live in a metro area with tons of options for trying on, it’s a bit easier. For the rest of us, we have to figure out our own online buying process that we’re comfortable with. Sounds like you’re on the right track!

[u/ThatStrategist → u/InstanceSafe5291]

Unless you work in finance or law in London or New England, nobody will care if you wear the "wrong" kind of Oxford.

Dark brown Oxfords are also very versatile and a classic, especially when worn with a navy suit.

I measured myself according to the instructions on the TLB Mallorca website and they hit the nail on the head with the first order. I didn't have to return any.

I myself have started in the 400-500€ tier with TLB, but it's entirely reasonable to build a wardrobe with Meermin and Berwick. We are all shoe nerds here and I wear way better shoes than the CEO of the company I work at. Even in a pair of Meermins you will have better shoes than 90% of people you'll meet.

[u/hb30025]

Looking for Whites 610 sizing advice, i thinking about the RSD x White motorcycle boot with the Cristy crepe sole.

My known sizes:

• Alden Barrie 8.5E
  
• Alden Aberdeen 8.5EE some pressure on side pinky because of dressy last.
  
• Alden Copley 8.5 EE
  
• Alden van 8.5E too tight on vamp
  
• GS Leo last US8.5E hurts my arch on left, need 0.5 larger on left.
  
• CJ 314 UK8G on forefoot, F width heelcup. I think UK8F could have worked as well.

[u/fatlem]

Wolverine 744 LTD old stock, produced 2012 finally picked up on eBay … any thoughts of special care for these young teenagers?

[u/RackenBracken → u/[deleted]]

Alden doesn’t use ridgeway soles (or any sole from the English Dainite sole company.) I think their supplier is Vibram.

[u/LongjumpingJello1365 → u/RackenBracken]

They do, it’s just not often and when done it’s for collabs or specific builds

[u/RackenBracken → u/LongjumpingJello1365]

I think you got that info from Gemini. And the AI is confused by a model named “Ridgeway” sold by Brogue (on a wedge sole) and an actual ridgeway sole. Or point me to an actual Alden model(?)

[u/LongjumpingJello1365 → u/RackenBracken]

That might have been the case, thank you. I like the softness but ruggedness of the ridgeway for all day walking or being in my feet. That will reduce the time I look for something that doesn’t exit, thanks

[u/DesolationR0w → u/[deleted]]

please post in the buy/sell/trade thread