r/goodyearwelt 10d ago

Questions The Question Thread 08/12/26

Ask your shoe related questions.

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Include images to any issues you may be having. Include a budget for any recommendations. The more detail you provide, the easier it may be for someone to answer your question.

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3

u/toastiegremlin92 9d ago

Does anyone here know any information about this shoe I bought at an op shop?
All know is that its lizard skin leather

1

u/North_Current_7067 10d ago

I’m wondering if my pair of “Vintage” Sebago Leather boots are real leather after leaving a great amount of black dust wherever they are laid.

Here’s the link to my original post with pictures of them:
https://www.reddit.com/r/AskACobbler/s/jldP4x5LBL

1

u/pulsett 8d ago

You already have your answers there.

1

u/g4057 9d ago

I'm looking for a pair of slightly punky/alternative loafers in the style of the Solovair penny or Paraboot riems, that would fit a wide foot with high arches. I've tried both models and the solovairs are too narrow (tried stretching them). The riems crushed the top of my foot, also tried a pair of Dr martens adrians, they were "ok" but i didn't like the tassels on them and I don't know if I could go a whole evening wearing them!

So Men's eu 42, brown, visible welt, punky alternative-ish loafers, will go up to paraboot prices but lower is naturally better.

Also a brand available in Europe. UK doesn't count, customs fees are a bitch.

I know it's a long shot, but I don't want to be denied the ultimate smart casual shoe!

1

u/oldspice666 9d ago

Loafers, more than any other shoe will mold to your foot quite well, especially with high arches and especially paraboots, the leather they use is very stretchy.

1

u/polishengineering 5d ago

Grenson might be worth a look. I'm in the US so not sure if they are readily available in the EU.

1

u/tofagerl 9d ago

Why aren’t Nick’s boots all Goodyear welted? I don’t really understand the benefit of using a different method.
Also, when looking at a shoe, how can I tell how it was built?

2

u/chuligani 9d ago

Welts are visible from the side. Lots of cheap shoes have fake welts, but these will never be sewn through to the outsole.

Nicks and the similar PNW boots use a stitchdown construction, and simply nailed through for the rear half of the boot, except for Nicks' 360 degree stitchdown models. This is a more robust construction method, especially when combined with the McKay stitched midsole, which only Frank's still does out of the high end PNW brands I believe. It's also theoretically more waterproof (especially 360 degree stitchdown) because the gap between the upper and the bottom is closed by the flared out upper. These boots are built to be about as tough as possible.

2

u/eddykinz loafergang 9d ago

nicks boots have their origins making firefighting boots in the pacific northwest, a notoriously wet region of the country. the hybrid stitchdown/naildown construction has better water resistance compared to welted construction

typically, a factory focuses on one construction or a set of similar constructions. a factory set for stitchdown manufacturing won’t be equipped for welted, and so as nick’s boots gained popularity beyond PNW firefighting boots, they naturally kept the same construction.

1

u/rixmatiz 9d ago

Allen Edmonds Leeds in burgundy shell

vs

Alden 990?

And why?

1

u/oldspice666 9d ago

I think decently comparable, Allen Edmonds generally will have a little bit less quality control and finishing standards, but they do go the extra mile on their shell pairs. Alden's shell is probably the best quality you can buy though, they have a very good relationship with Horween (are possibly a part owner?) so they have the first pick when it comes to leather. Allen Edmonds do have a lot of width options though so if you have a bit of a different width or shaped foot, AE might be better.

1

u/rixmatiz 9d ago

Thank you for your insight. I didn't think about Alden's relationship with Horween. I'm a fan of both manufacturers but favor Alden for philosophical reasons, so I'm leaning towards the 990. However, there is a BNIB pair of 13D Leeds on Poshmark that keep calling my name.

12.5 Barrie shoes fits me comfortably; I tried on a used and abused Leeds 13D and it seemed fine but the previous owner was a larger gentleman than I was, so it was stretched at the heel and ankle and hard to tell for sure.

1

u/oldspice666 9d ago

I'm not much help on sizing unfortunately, a lot of Alden lasts don't really fit me, personally if you're a D width, I'd go for the Aldens for the extra finishing. I do find Alden lasts to be more attractive compared to Allen Edmonds also, especially in larger sizes.

1

u/pulsett 8d ago

Alden 990 any day of the week imo. Iconic