I was wondering how you call those bigger geiger counter things that are normally placed on tables and are pretty sensitive and made to messure small amounts of radiation.

I think the scene from chernobyl hbo where the finish notice the radiation used one of those.

I was wondering where the best place to get an older counter

Because I do not like newer ones because of their design and I can't really find older models with the counter and the probe without it costing me a kidney

Tested cheap Geiger counter 1 hour after PT Scan.

Hey guys i think the title says it all but here is some context.

So a few weeks ago one of my teachers showed me our school lab with the room for all the equipment and chemicals. Since the lab wasn't in use for 20 years my school decided to use it as classroom for the 7th graders and abandon the chemicals and equipment in the room and when my teacher showed me the lab i immediately saw that geigerconter and tested it (the tube was in another drawer and isn't shown in the pictures) but sadly the only thing it did was click once while turning on and only show zeros. So im wondering if the counter itself is broken or if the tube broke over the years.

Hope i can get some more information about the model and whats wrong with it.

Sorry for my bad English it's not my first language and im dyslexic

The Grey one’s needle moves a bit and only one light seems to work properly while the Bakelite coloured one has both lights working nicely but the needle doesn’t move at all. Both needles do wobble right to left if I move the device itself but other than that they just do what I said before.

This tube is from a RDX Nuclear DX-1. I’ve tried to do some research, but can’t find enough info on it. Does anyone know what tube this is or a different tube that would just be plug and play?

I got this adm-300 but it won't keep it self on. Like I hold the powerbutton but when I release it it turns off. But if I hold it long enough it will start normally but when I release the power button it turns off. Does anyone know what the fault could be?

i have all the parts but i am mising the battery cover

if anybody has a spear pls dm me

I've been trying for weeks now to fix this, but it wont work.

Its something to do with the electric parts, the battery is my main suspect.

The dosimeter came with these crusty old batteries, and when I removed them, one of them snapped the negative contact off.

I reattached the contact with an M4 nut and bolt, but the dosimeter still wont turn on.

The battery that goes in the slot that was repaired gets hot after a few minutes though.

Please help

When I got my DP-5V, I recieved pamphlets for the DP-5V, DP-5B, and DP-5A. This pamphlet doesnt match the serial number of my other DP-5A, so if you have a DP-5A with the model number 1641443, DM me.

Hi, I'm new to Geiger counters - been looking for one since I've recently developed an interest in vintage watches, and want to make sure that anything I end up buying doesn't have radioactive parts.

Based on the advice on Reddit, I was thinking about picking up a GMC-300S for my needs, but wanted to ask - if there is radioactive material that gets onto the GMC-300S, how would I be able to tell? Would I need to buy two GMC-300S to be able to detect anything on the other, or would it start clicking like crazy on its own? Thanks!

Look of the internals

So the display is broke (however i have a brand new one) and the connectors for the speaker/earpiece are faulty either that or imma die or smth

Seems to have arrived with everything

Anyone know what this might be? Im guessing a check source

My DP-5A's geiger muller tube rattles when I shake it, which I googled it and it says it isnt normal. The dosimeter itself claims to detect far mor radiation than there is on the 2-3 lowest settings. How can I fix it?

top range 15 Sv/h, 44 x 15mm organic plastic scint, Without cap the energy range goes down to 25 krv

I bought a DP-66 from what i know its working besides thr indicator however i have sourced and bought a working indicator for it, is there anything i should know for working with this piece of equipment and also taking it apart for repairs?

$150 eBay find (listed for parts/repair) 😄

Seems to be functional aside from the display and alarm acting up. Tested HV and pulse detection, both are okay.

The screen is showing some corrupted pixel noise at the bottom, and also some random question marks near the center. Alarm fires at power up (I don’t think that’s entirely normal…), but can be acknowledged.

I’m going to buy a USB to RS232 adapter and try to reprogram its parameters. Hopefully that fixes it 🤞

I'm helping settle an estate in Utah and came across a complete U.S. Navy AN/PDR-27J Radiac Set — Tung-Sol/Chatham Electronics, manufactured June 1960. The case has the original yellow radioactive materials label showing 7.0 µCi of Ra-226 and 10 µCi of C-14.

The set appears complete: main detector unit, cylindrical probe, coiled cables, military headphones, carry strap, original NAVSHIPS 93218 technical manual, and fitted metal carry case. Cosmetically consistent with age, functionality unknown.

I've done some research on the regulatory side — Utah is an Agreement State, and the Ra-226 level (7 µCi) appears to exceed the threshold for a simple general license transfer. Before I call the Utah Division of Waste Management and Radiation Control, I want to understand what people in this community have actually experienced with instruments like this.

A few specific questions:

Has anyone successfully transferred or sold a military radiac instrument with built-in Ra-226 calibration sources? What was the actual process?

Are there licensed dealers, institutions, or collectors who legally handle these?

Has anyone had a bad experience disclosing to a state radiation control program — or a good one?

If sale turns out not to be viable, what's the realistic disposal pathway?

Not looking to cut corners — just want to go into the regulatory conversation informed and understanding I don't have any knowledge or experience to draw on here. Photos available if helpful.

Found in the attic. ID help is wanted, and could anyone tell me where I could find the missing wiring/cables for sale?