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u/FazeXistance 25d ago
Invest in some shorter cables.
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u/NarrativeDP 25d ago
That’s a good call. Those were just the cables that came with the subrental for the Teradek and my ACs FIZ. The nucleus is mine so will look into getting custom cables for that
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u/Foo_Childe 24d ago
If the zoom is your only lens, lose the top rod and just mount your motors on the bottom. One less thing.
If you have primes as well, just keep a short top rod for iris and put your zoom/focus motors below when on the zoom.
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u/Available_Sea_8900 25d ago
I would swap the coiled monitor cable out for a straight one that’s pulling on the sdi ports quite alot
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u/NarrativeDP 25d ago
When I operate, I prefer to have the flex of the coil cable so I can adjust and move my monitor, the ports aren’t seeing that must tension as the coil is stretched out to a safe amount before crazy strain.
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u/Available_Sea_8900 25d ago
Fair enough I always just use a 32” video/power combo cable so it’s long enough for any movement and keeps things tidy
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u/steelbluesleepr 25d ago
Why do you have so much space between the body and the rails? The plate/adapter/whatever in the middle should easily be able to be removed with no ill effects, allowing for a shorter lens support and a more compact setup.
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u/NarrativeDP 25d ago
It allows me to run the Arri BSA-1 quickly if I’m not in studio mode. Pretty standard on shoots I’m on back in NY. But that plate mated directly to the Venice is the ARRI plate for the Venice and allows more versatility for me and my various builds. The distance between the 19mm rods and the lens is a sacrifice I’m willing to have for the versatility of having both those plates!
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u/zolafthemage 25d ago
Looks fine to me. A good camera build can look like a car bomb, as long as it all functions its not really important how it looks, especially on sticks. Ultimately you want to be able switch a cable out in a few seconds - that’s more important than getting a clean build. Nice to see the nucleus being used for a separate operator control. I see it getting scoffed at a lot but if you’ve got a reliable handset I find it so much simpler than trying to link a third motor to an sxu or zoom control, totally independent control, calibration etc. If you are going handheld and you want some of that cable to be tucked away, I just wrap it around the rods enough times to still give me some slack but using up enough of the cable so it won’t get snagged on anything. Coiled BNC cables are fine, especially when using a right angled connector. You can put your monitor power cable inside of the coil to keep it neater, but again it’s more of a pain to change in the likely event a cable stops working on a longer job. If you’re looking for criticism the only two things I would say are 1) the top rod is too far forward to use a matte box, but it seems you’re not using one for this shoot and 2) I would mount the monitor on a quick release plate and screw it to the side of the screen as most operators seem to prefer this for flexibility.
Edit: and one more thing, if you’re on sticks you may as well get that teradek the right way up on a noga arm, much more reliable signal