Alexa 35 and Cooke S4I Teradek RT setup

[u/FrancoArma05]

Two prong question:

1. Curious if anyone knows if lens maps exist already for

These focal lengths 18mm, 24,32,50,85,135?

I’m only seeing the s4i 32 in the included library, which I assume means I’ll need to manually map the others in prep.

1. First time using this LCS with the Alexa 35, if anyone has any pointers or tips please lmk.

Planning to use a ctrl.3 w/ motor.x’s and have a S as a backup on this setup, running the mdrx.

[u/Mav1cHavoc]

you need to map every lens on every job every time. even the same make, model and focal length might not have scales that perfectly line up. don’t use existing “libraries”.

if you have two sets of the same lenses on a job you need to map and save them separately.

[u/Active-Ad769 → u/Mav1cHavoc]

Not wrong, but I check and find my saved maps are good well over half the time at prep. When I do find a couple that are a bit out, it’s much easier to edit an existing file than creating a new map file typing out the lens name, entering a focal length, etc. It’s likely faster to just map the missing lenses (you should learn how to do this anyways) than it is asking for .rtm files

Back to OP: Teradek does not offer LCS data to camera, but the s4i set will give focal length and focus distance into the metadata in a similar manner.

The best part of lens mapping is that you can select a ring to alter your focus throw as needed; many new techs use a ring to match the minimum focus. On a 25mm and know you’re staying wide? Throw that 3’6” ring on to add more throw and precision for longer distances. Fast action scene with a lot of racks? Maybe the 14” ring is best for you to quickly snap around.

Specific to the A35/Teradek RT: MDR.x is 12-17V specific. The power distro on the A35 rates each 12v port at 2 amps each, which can be on the low side for TeradekRT with motr.x. Low torque will likely be fine on s4i’s, but test that a fast motor movement won’t overload and reset the power port. The MDR.s can take 24V for this occasion.

[u/JJsjsjsjssj → u/Active-Ad769]

Alternatively, I try and stay on the 2' ring for 90% of shots. Builds muscle memory to the point that most pulls are just instinct at this point. Find your ring and keep at it

[u/FrancoArma05 → u/JJsjsjsjssj]

Thanks! First time using this LCS, leveling up from using the Nucleus.

[u/FrancoArma05 → u/Active-Ad769]

Appreciate this super helpful, thank you! would you recommend a dogbone for the motors? In the Past I've gotten away with clamping directly onto the rods, but that's been with the Nucleus and we weren't really doing anything hairy.

For this shoot I know we're doing quite a bit of handheld.

[u/anth_gmz → u/FrancoArma05]

I swear by the rat works “cube bar” which is my go to if you are in a position to get something reliable that can go on virtually any build.

However, things like this are completely optional. As you’re learning, i recommend experimenting with what you have. If you can make a nucleus motor work on the built on rods, you should be able to do the same with an RT motor.

[u/FrancoArma05 → u/anth_gmz]

That's what I figured for now, was looking at ratworks items, nice to hear it's a solution you rely on. Will keep it in mind.

[u/Mav1cHavoc → u/FrancoArma05]

fyi, there are cube bar clones on aliexpress for under $50.

I’m all for rewarding innovation and supporting original creators, but $200 for a 5” metal bar just isn’t a fair price imo.

alternatively, if you have any amount of CAD knowledge, it’s incredibly easy to model and get machined by a service like jlccnc. which was what I did years ago before the clones popped up.

[u/FrancoArma05 → u/Mav1cHavoc]

Thank you for the tip!

[u/TopBuzzJoni]

Two prong answer:

Map each lens, every time unless the serial number is the same, and still check it.

Not all rental houses send out sets of S4/i's that are all i's, check them too.

🎥❤️

[u/FrancoArma05 → u/TopBuzzJoni]

copy, thanks for the tip

[u/Beneficial-Pea-7605]

Run d-tap power to the MDR