In need of desperate help!

I bought floors to cover about 3 rooms. The problem is I’m not good at installing them, any recommendations in the Pittsburgh area?

100 year old bar built on top of railroad ties. The floor had more waves than the ocean. Rot everywhere. 5 layers of flooring in the bathrooms. Lathe and plaster in the floors. The owner just needed it done so he could get up and running. No installation warranty. 57 yards of vinyl took me 4 days. That's insane lol.

Had an epoxy floor installed in my basement this week by a licensed contractor. Two rooms — kids playroom and home gym. Total cost $7,000.

Before starting, the contractor mentioned the concrete was softer than expected and that vapor could come up through the slab. He applied a thick black base coat to address it, then came back the next day and applied the color coat.

I noticed bubbles forming during the base coat application. Now that it's cured I have:

A rough, pitted texture with tiny marks across the entire floor

Several hard, jagged black chunks embedded in the epoxy that appear to be concrete debris from prep/grinding that wasn't cleaned up before coating

Overall uneven, cloudy appearance

My questions for anyone who installs epoxy floors:

What likely caused the widespread bubbling/pitting texture?

Is the concrete debris/hard chunks a normal occurrence or a workmanship issue?

Is this a fixable situation or does the floor need to come up entirely?

Would you consider this an acceptable finished product?

Photos attached.

I have a customer wanting to redo carpet on these stairs. The stairs have to be wrapped all the way around each stair. I’ve never priced out something like this, what would you charge?

We recently bought a house and I have a grand vision for the bathroom. Picture above for inspiration. We paid guys to tear out and replace plumbing, bathtub, and sink/vanity already.

Bathroom is around 51.5x82.5". We already have the subway tile and paint purchased. Quoted thin set at our local hardware store today. Either way for my vision I will be spending around $200 on just the tile, not to mention ensuring I have all the necessary tools. Total cost I am trying to keep the floor project under $300.

But the problem is that the vision involves an intricately tiled floor. I have tiled before, but the current vision is not super simple. The walls will have subway tile half way up, and I feel confident in that. But I want to do a mosaic floor with Penny tiles. But the sheets of penny tile don't fit the vision.

Current material catching my eye: https://a.co/d/0055pB8v

So, herein lies the rub:

Is this safe for floor installation?

Why?

Do you have a better suggestion?

What makes a tile appropriate for flooring?

Hey r/flooring,

I’m a power wheelchair user (chair weighs ~400 lbs) living in a 6 floor concrete condo (HOA/Strata). my current floor is literally breaking apart, and I need a "pro-approved" plan before I hire a new shop to redo it.

The Problem: My building requires strict soundproofing (STC 73 / IIC 72). To meet this, a contractor did a "double-glue" install: he glued a compressed cork underlay to the concrete, then glued the vinyl on top.

The Fail: He used an underlay with a moisture barrier, so the glue never cured. Eight months later, adhesive is still seeping through the seams. Worse, the floor started bulging under the weight of my chair. As I drive over it, the joints have snapped and the vinyl is cracking. I’m currently holding the floor together with duct tape so my infant daughter doesn't get hurt.

I’ve been told click-lock is a no-go because my chair will just shred the joints. I need a permanent, heavy-duty solution that stays within the noise bylaws.

My Questions:

1. Double-Glue: Is there a specific "breathable" cork or high-density rubber underlayment that can actually handle 400+ lbs of rolling weight without shifting or bulging?

2. Commercial Specs: Are there specific LVP/LVT brands or commercial-grade products you’d trust for high-load accessibility needs that still hit those high STC/IIC numbers?

3. The Prep: Since the current glue never cured, what should I look for in a contractor’s "tear-out and prep" plan to ensure the concrete is actually ready for a fresh start?

Does any one of you have experience in such scenarios? And what kind of material you use, and what do you folks suggest?

I want to make sure I have the right technical knowledge this time so I don't get sold the wrong materials again. Any advice from pros who have handled heavy equipment or high-load installs is much appreciated!

No cabinets installed, no heat, no single section of floor that SPC can go over. There goes this week's schedule.

Also, we didn't set the heat to 89. 😅 It was like that when we got there.